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The Australian Route Register

Reaper Buttress


Crag:VIC
  - Djurite (Mt. Arapiles)
    - 08. Central Gully Right Side
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Location:Descents: Rap stations have been added (~2003) above Reaper (24m), Berserk (30m), and Taste Sensation, courtesy NBF.
Rock:   Walk:   5-15 mins
Wet Weather:Damp
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:willmonks


Issues

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Routes

1 :     Beam Me Up Scotty   -   verified 15m 22trad
Walk-off
 Start on the nice blob of rock which is uphill and L of Saraband.
Take the easiest line up the face via plenty of horizontals.
FA: Mark Moorhead, solo - 1983-04-00
2 :     Charlie Crinkle   -   verified 15m 22trad
Walk-off
 Start 2m R of BMUS.
A bit harder. Up via small flake then R-ish.
FA: Mark Moorhead, solo - 1983-04-00
3 :     Saraband   -   verified 15m 21trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Start on the L side of the Saraband pinnacle.
The LH crack.
FA: John Smart - 1979-00-00
4 :     Chaconne   -   verified 15m 22trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Start just R of S.
Up the R side of the buttress. The DF up the top crack is reachy 24, the 22 way is to climb the breaks R of the arete.
FA: John Smart - 1979-00-00
5 :     Armpit   -   verified 50m 9trad
Walk-off
 Start at the obvious chimney bounding the L side of the main Reaper Buttress.
Up the chimney.
FA: Chris Baxter, Dorothy McManus - 1968-06-10
6 :     Jilted     IMG 15m 23mixed
3 bolts
Rap-anchor
Toprope
 Back wall. Approach via Skyline Walls, Dreadnought Gully or Josie's Climb. Very steep start past bolt then rightwards along lip of roof (BRs) to a tricky exit (Cam).
FA: Alistair Mark - 1989-00-00
7 :     The Perfect Match     IMG 10m 25sport
3 bolts
Rap-anchor
Toprope
 As for Jilted.
Back wall. A mini Slopin' Sleazin'? Unconventional moves up an interesting feature left of Jilted. Start as for that route to its first BR, then head up to 2nd BR and left to the base of unlikely arete. Climb this to good pocket (BR), then continue past undercling to top.
FA: Steve Kelly - 2008-11-02
8 :     Andy Warhol   -   verified 15m 23trad
Walk-off
 Start 2m R of the L arete of the west-facing wall, above Armpit.
Tough around roof onto wall and into crackline on L.
FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn - 1982-12-30
9 :     The Sting   -   verified 30m 20trad
Walk-off
 Start just R of AW.
The overhang and wall R of AW.
FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead - 1979-00-00
10 :     In Space   -   verified     IMG 30m 21trad
Walk-off
 Spectacular.
Start 3m R of TS.
Use holds on arete to gain hanging corner and to ledge. Over roof to join crack and arete.
FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead - 1979-00-00
11 :     Berserk     IMG 35m 25mixed
Rap-anchor
 Back to the front (main) wall. Up chimney/corner on left end of main wall (Armpit - 11) then access diagonal rampline rightwards past a bolt. Cross Reaper and finish up headwall just right of arete.
FA: Mark Moorhead - 1983-00-00
12 :     Reaper   -   verified     IMG 55m 22trad
Rap-anchor
 Start beneath the major crack in the middle of the face.
FA: Henry Barber, Chris Dewhirst (p2 only, approached by a long traverse in from the L. Greg Child added p1 in 78) - 1975-04-05
FFA: 2030-02-07
P1(25m, 21)The steep crack up to the base of the major sickle crack.
P2(30m, 22)Follow the L-curving sickle crack to the top.
13 :     Reaper Direct Finish     IMG 15m 23mixed
Rap-anchor
 From the cave at the end of the sickle (of Reaper) traverse right and pull over bulge. Follow right leading flake until it ends, move right then up past bolt.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Eddy Ozols - 1981-11-00
FFA: 1999-11-30
14 :     Grim Reaper     IMG 35m 23mixed
Walk-off
 A link up of Reaper and the Direct Finish. From near the finish of the Reaper sickle line, go up past 2 bolts to final bolt on Reaper Direct Finish.
FA: Enga Lokey - 2000-00-00
15 :     Grimstone     IMG 35m 26mixed
Lower-off
Toprope
 Climb Reaper to its crux. Step right at a prominent chalked jug and ooze up the unlikely seam past a FH to gain the upper traverse on Taste Sensation. Step right again and climb the excellent face above passing a second FH to join Taste Sensation at its final crack.
FA: Ingvar Lidman - 2008-11-01
FFA: 1999-11-30
16 :     Ultramundane 30m 24trad
Rap-anchor
 Start at the first belay of Reaper.
From the belay, drop down then traverse R across Incest to the first ledge of Wild Oats.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead - 1983-03-00
FFA: 1999-11-30
17 :     Taste Sensation     IMGIMG 35m 25mixed
Rap-anchor
 Start at the first belay of Reaper.
From Reaper's 1st belay, head up Reaper 2nd pitch to where it curves left, then traverse 2m right to below bolt. Pull over bulge and up crack to break. Traverse left along break, then up headwall past bolt, aiming for short crack.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Malcolm Matheson - 1981-11-00
FFA: 1999-11-30
18 :     Girl Germs 40m 22trad
Rap-anchor
 Start at the first belay of Reaper.
From the belay, go up then traverse 4m right into exposed terrain above Incest (past bolt) then ignoring common sense head up over bulge to hanging slab and run it out to roof. Now traverse R and finish up Wild Oats.
FA: Louise Shepherd, Chris Shepherd - 1983-03-00
19 :     Wild Reaper Connection     IMG 35m 22mixed
1 bolts
Rap-anchor
 From 1st belay of Reaper, follow Girl Germs to the roof, then pump up the power to pull the lip and onwards to glory.
FA: Rod Young, Barry Young - 1979-00-00
20 :     
Fine Arts     IMGIMG
65m 23trad
Rap-anchor
 Start as for Wild Oats.
FA: Barry Young, Chris Stroud (p1 only, 1/79); Chris Shepherd, Cathy Blamey - 1981-12-00
FFA: 2030-02-07
P1(30m, 21)Climb directly to the ledge from the RH start, not much pro.
P2(15m, 23)Traverse L a few metres then up to R-curving flake which leads to ledge.
P3(20m, 23)Walk R then climb the steep East face of the buttress, just L of the arete.
21 :     Incest     IMGIMG 25m 25mixed
 Start as for the LH option of Wild Oats.
Head up then leftwards to 2 prominent bolts, then left across white marbled rock (crux) into hanging corner. Finish up this to the first belay of Reaper.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Louise Shepherd - 1983-03-00
FFA: 1999-11-30
22 :     Sisterly and Christally     IMG 40m 26mixed
4 bolts
Rap-anchor
 Up I to the 2nd bolt, then directly upwards past a bolt and peg to roof (shared with Wild Reaper Connection to the left). Step right and pull through bulge. Easier climbing leads to the top.
Start as for Incest.
FA: Chris Shepherd - 1991-03-30
FFA: 1999-11-30
23 :     Wild Arts     IMG 40m 20trad
FA: Simon Mentz - 1998-00-00
P1(18m, 20)Boulder problem start 2m right of Incest. Boldly up thin seam to belay at stance level with Reaper belay.
P2(22m, 19)Up crack then break left. Straight up past shattered rock (avoidable) and spaced pro to finish up thin crack near arete.
24 :     Wild Oats     IMG 70m 20trad
Rap-anchor
 Start under the SE arete of the Reaper Buttress, 6m L of Red Parrot Chasm.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Andrew Bowman (with an aid nut) - 1974-11-16
FFA: Mike Stone (6/75) and Glenn Tempest (9/76) freed the two options, respectively.
P1(25m, 20)Bouldery crux start up weakness, then step R (going straight up is the scary 21 first pitch of Fine Arts). Join twin cracks to ledge.
P2(25m, 15)Up to horizontal then head L around arete for about 10m and up the main crack.
P3(20m, -)Traverse easily off L, or don your crampons for the summit.
25 :     Red Parrot Chasm     IMG 55m 11trad
Rap-anchor
 Start on the R side of Reaper Buttress.
The monumental chimney. The smooth crux section can be done either by stemming on the outside or grunting on the inside, but either way the pro is a bit skimpy.
FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson - 1964-01-02
FFA: 1999-11-30

Recent Ascents

mattbrooksP1Wild Artsonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooksP2Wild Artsonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks In Spaceonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooksP1Wild Oatsonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooksP2Wild Oatsonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooksP3Wild Oatsonsight2011-01-19
daaave Wild Reaper Connec...second (clean)2010-12-16
Olbert Wild Reaper Connec...Almost came off after the roof pullonsight222010-12-16
OlbertP1ReaperNice warm up pitchonsight212010-12-16
daaaveP1Reaperfree2010-12-16
daaaveP2Reaperonsight2010-12-16
OlbertP2ReaperSolid climbing through the sloper section!second (clean)222010-12-16
Pat61P1Reaperonsight2009-10-18
Pat61P2Reaperonsight2009-10-18
wogdogP1Wild Oatsfree0000-00-00
wogdogP2Wild Oatsfree0000-00-00
wogdogP3Wild OatsSome fabulous climbing on this one.free0000-00-00
pharmamatt Red Parrot Chasmugly chimmneying at toponsight110000-00-00

Copyright, ACA, 2012