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The Australian Route Register

Kachoong Cliffs


Crag:VIC
  - Djurite (Mt. Arapiles)
    - 17. The Northern Group
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Rock:   Walk:Steep   5-15 mins
Wet Weather:Damp
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:willmonks


Issues

Routes

    Cavities 13m 24trad
 Contrived.
Start just left of Taste Of Honey DS and climb arete, keeping eft of ToHDS until able to swing into crack on left wall. Follow crack to ledge.
FA: Kim Carrigan - 1982-09-25
    A Taste of Honey Direct Start     IMG 13m 20trad
 A great individual pitch or an approach to one of the other climbs.
Steep orange seam at the base of the gully below A Taste Of Honey.
FA: John Davis, Jim Smith - 1967-08-00
FFA: Kim Carrigan - 1978-09-06
    Echo System 13m 17trad
Walk-off
 A good approach to The Golden Echo.
Start as for A Taste of Honey Direct Start.
As for ToHDS, but stay right using thin cracks to the bulge. Up right through bulge to arete, then easily to beginning of The Golden Echo.
FA: Mark Witham, Michael Hartman - 1997-01-00

Photographer's Ledge : this is the spot to take classic photos of punters on Kachoong. The next few climbs also start from this ledge. A grade 6 scramble is required to reach the ledge.

    A Taste of Honey     IMGIMGIMG 27m 21trad
Walk-off
 Absolutely thrilling.
Step left off ledge and up lovely corner to magic thread under roof. Traverse right to arete and finish easily.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter - 1968-04-15
FFA: Henry Barber - 1975-03-00
    A Taste of Honey Variant     IMG 27m 24trad
Walk-off
 This was actually the original aid line. Traverse right along the thin crack from the fixed peg.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead - 1979-10-07
    Savour The Flavour 27m 25trad
Walk-off
 Ultra-low variant on Taste Of Honey. Traverse right with feet swinging.
FA: Hugh Manoid, Bud Green - 1988-01-00
    Capilano 25m 21trad
Walk-off
 Up wall to first horizontal break and traverse spectacularly left to arete and up.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Gordon McCallum, Colin Reece - 1979-12-00
    Dr. Paul And The Amazing Dancing Gnome     IMG 25m 21trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Start as for Capilano and continue up wall with long reaches to major horizontal. Don't escape left but keep going up for a few more moves until it eases.
FA: Paul Smith, Geoff Little - 1985-04-00
    The Golden Echo Direct 20m 19trad
 The obvious wide line through the roofs above the ledge.
FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Bowman - 1974-10-06
    The Golden Echo Variant     IMG 25m 18trad
Walk-off
 This was the original route but has moprhed into a variant.
Start up Golden Echo Direct for 5 metres then traverse out right and up lettle corner below highhest roof. Step right around lip and finish back left.
FA: John Moore - 1966-01-28
    The Golden Echo     IMGIMG 25m 18trad
Walk-off
 Interesting climbing through some exciting territory.
Traverse out right from belay level with bottom roof to corner and old peg. Up corner to middle roof and traverse right. Now up wall.
FA: Joe Friend, Ian Lewis - 1974-08-00
    
Sounds Like		 35m 23trad
Walk-off
 A scary direct start to Golden Echo.
Climb directly up face left of Kachoong's initial wall, past shattered flake into base of Golden Echo's corner.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Nick Plishko, Robin Miller - 1982-09-25

The next climbs start on the scramble around to Hurts Wall.

    Constance Little 12m 14trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Nice little wall climb. It's not clear where this route is relative to Taliban Airways and the other 2001 routes - it may be a repeat of one of them? Faces the same way as Hurts, Max and Moritz but just one level below them.
From Hurts, go out and drop down through the gap that leads down to Golden Echo DS and Taste of Honey. As you emerge from this chimney there is a face on the right which is undercut on its left side. Start on the right edge of the undercut.
Step up left above the undercut. Now move straight up the face to a bulge, step right and pull over the bulge and go up. Move right at the top to belay below Hurts.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth - 2005-07-00
    Taliban Airways   -   verified 10m 12trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 (Flying into New York, twice daily). A good way to get up to the start of Kachoong warm.
Underneath the start of Kachoong is a wall which the track skirts.
The left of the wall.
FA: Richard Smith and Greg Pritchard - 2001-09-12
    A Taste of Bin Laden 10m 13trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 The Right of the Taliban Airways wall.
FA: Richard Smith and Greg Pritchard - 2001-09-12
    Haiku 10m 18trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 The original name was:
climbing was super
on long steep juggy arete
loose jug in my hand
The steep left arete of the Taliban Airways wall.
FA: Richard Smith, Paul Hoskins - 2002-03-00
    Mufti Dive 10m 21trad
Walk-off
 Right of the arete is a thin wall.
Up.
FA: Paul Hoskins, Richard Smith - 2002-03-00
    Kachoong   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 25m 21mixed
1 bolts
Walk-off
 Up on jugs to rest at roof, place bomber cams and then launch out into glory across the roof into the crux at the lip. Easy up headwall to welcome belay
Start at the ledge below the big roof with the chalked flakes.
1977-04-00
FFA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, April - 2010-00-00
    Kachoong Right Hand Variant     IMG 25m 21mixed
Walk-off
 The original line through the roof took the little hanging corner on the right. This is worthwhile in its own right.
FA: Dave Neilson, Chris Dewhirst - 1968-08-12
FFA: Henry Barber. Ed Neve and Nic Taylor reduced the aid considerably in 10-1974 - 1975-03-00
    Kachoong Pikers Variant 25m 19mixed
Walk-off
 Climb to the roof (crux) and then escape out right and up easy wall.
FA: Bruno Zielke, Fred Langenhorst - 1969-01-26
    
Achoo		 15m 22trad
 Poorly protected start. Douglas doesn't mind at all if someone puts 2 bolts in the start.
Start about 2m R of Kachoong.
Up poorly protected wall (crux) and left to jug on arete. Back R into small corner and up steep jugs.
FA: Douglas Hockly, Gareth Llewellyn - 2002-00-00
    Ground Cumin 18m 18trad
 Start just left of Max and go up and slightly further left up overhanging wall. When angle eases, head up to final roof crack.
FA: Nick Neagle, Paul Francis - 1987-04-05
    Max     IMG 15m 10trad
 Lovely short crack on the left side of the Hurts Wall.
FA: Roland and Ann Pauligk - 1973-07-08
    Consolation Prize 18m 15trad
 Slightly contrived face climbing between Max and Moritz.
FA: Paul Francis, Nick Neagle - 1987-04-05
    Moritz 15m 9trad
 Crack 3 metres right of Max is also quite good.
FA: Ann and Roland Pauligk - 1973-07-08
    Mega 10m 18trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Starts up and left of Hurts.
Climb up to join Hurts where it steps slightly left. Probably the same start as Santa Claus Conquers The Martians so may not be a separate climb at all.
FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard - 2006-00-00
    Santa Claus Conquers The Martians 20m 21trad
Walk-off
 Loads of steep traversing.
Start just left of Hurts. Up a little and right into Hurts. Continue steeply right into In Phase and down and right into Cyclic. Surmount bulge and follow break right to belay.
FA: Simon Mentz, Scott Camps, Jared McCulloch, Andrew Eastaugh - 1988-05-07
    Hurts     IMG 18m 18trad
Lower-off
 Good, pumpy wall.
Thin crack and bulge 3 metres right of Moritz.
FA: Louise Shepherd, Kim Carrigan - 1979-06-16
    In Phase     IMG 20m 24trad
Lower-off
 Very good and very strenuous.
Seam 3 metres right of Hurts to the bulge. Go up to diagonal crack, across it and up.
FA: Kim Carrigan - 1979-06-16
    Cyclic 20m 20trad
Walk-off
 Slight corner 4 metres right of In Phase then traverse 3-4 metres left, over roof and up crack.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd - 1979-06-16
    Monkey 24m 12trad
Walk-off
 Looks awful.
Corner 8 metres right of Cyclic with gymnastic start.
FA: Roland and Ann Pauligk - 1973-07-08
    Low-rent Rendezvous 15m 15trad
Walk-off
 Not the best part of town.
Takes clean convex wall about 30m right of Hurts Wall.
Start on the right, at a tiny corner/overhang. Swing up, step left, then continue up clean wall trending left on nice horizontal breaks.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran

Recent Ascents

glenn_9 Kachoongfree2010-06-02
aarond A Taste of Honey D...glad i wasnt leading this onesecond (clean)2010-05-09
aarond The Golden Echoonsight2010-05-09
bennym Kachoongred-point2010-04-20
bennym Hurtsred-point2010-04-20
pharmamatt Maxonsight112010-04-04
pharmamatt Moritzonsight112010-04-04
pharmamatt Hurtsonsight182010-04-04
Olbert KachoongAwesome climb, though a bit easy for a 21 roof!flash202008-12-01
jgoding KachoongClassic. free0000-00-00
pharmamatt The Golden Echoonsight180000-00-00
murph Ground Cuminflash0000-00-00

Copyright, ACA, 2010