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The Australian Route Register

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Leasehold Wall

  - Djurite (Mt. Arapiles)
    - 18. The Far North
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:This wall around right from the Intrepid Gully and below Hum Terrace has not been very popular but it does have some good climbs.
Rock:   Walk:   5-15 mins
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:willmonks



    Leasehold 22m 16trad
 Start at the left hand end of the wall at a wide crack.
Up wide crack for a few metres then step right and go up steep orange streak.
FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepherd - 1979-09-02
    Women's Weekly World Discovery Tour 30m 25trad
 Rarely climbed. The top pitch is supposed to be hard and poorly protected but from the ground it looks like a piece of easy choss. Both pitches are given the same grade just in case.
Start right of Leasehold at a low orange roof, 5 metres left of the heavily chalked roof of Fade Out.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd - 1980-06-00
P1(15m, 25)Over first roof then left beneath second roof.
P2(15m, 25)Supposed to be sustained, poorly protected wall.
    Fade Out     IMG 35m 22Unknown
 A good little roof leads to an interesting wall.
Take well-chalked weakness through roof then up steep orange wall to easier ground.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Rod Young - 1979-09-23
    All In Vein 35m 21trad
 A filler roof problem.
Righthand weakness through Fade Out roof then easily up
FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead - 1979-09-22
    Friends In High Places     IMG 35m 18trad
 Steep and sustained.
Start 3 metres right of All In Vein.
Pull up left and climb overhanging crack. Up groove for 4 metres to bulge then continue up pocketed crack. At roof step left then go up to stance at 20 metres (belay possible). Continue easily up.
FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone - 1985-06-09
    Bhutan 35m 16trad
 The original version of Friends In High Places, avoiding that climbs hard bits. However the start is totally desperate. Grade hasn't been changed because we couldn't get up it to grade it.
Start mid-way between Friends In High Places and Totally Stoned; 1 metre from each!
Climb crack to ledge. Step left and up groove (Friends In High Places) to bulge. move up out left, up wall then finish easily right and up.
FA: Chris Baxter, Maureen Gallagher - 1984-11-10
    Totally Stoned 36m 15trad
 The major crack-line 5 metres right of All In Vein offers some good climbing but it's currently ruined by a large bush.
This crack is the same one climbed by Intrepid but on the opposite side of the cliff! Thin people may be able to chimney through to Intrepid!
Undercut start, swinging on a bush helps, leads into major crack-line and large bush. Fight past the bush then follow line past two steepenings.
FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone - 1973-07-15
    Anchors Away     IMG 35m 15trad
 Another quite good climb. The line was originally gained by traversing in from Totally Stoned but should be started direct, as described.
The thin bulging crack right of Totally Stoned, starting directly below the line, just right of a tree. Probably best to belay from the ground which will add a few metres to the length.
FA: Craig Nottle, Mark Moorhead. Direct Start : Chris and Sue Baxter 29-08-1983 - 1979-11-12
    Sandbag Of The Century 30m 18trad
 Good steep climbing on clean rock. The name is referring to the recent sandbagging activities due to flood and is not related to the grade.
The line at the left end of the ledge, starting up an easy corner that is just right of Anchors Away
Up corner to bulge. Step right and move up left through bulge and continue fairly much straight up.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran - 2011-01-10
    Bitterblue 30m 19trad
 Much better than it looks.
The next steep weakness starting 3-4 metres right of Sandbag Of The Century and then continue up.
FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead - 1979-09-30
    Fretwork 25m 20trad
Climb overhang 3 metres right of Bitterblue then veer right up short wall.
FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead - 1979-10-26
    Anchorman's Delight 30m 16trad
 Crack and wall right of Fretwork. Not too bad but has a few dirty holds.
FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead - 1979-10-26
    Humbug 30m 19trad
 Right around the corner from Anchorman's Delight is a large corner system, left of The First Affinity. Start at the base of the crack in this corner. Up crack to roofs and through these. Continue up, stepping to the left of the arete to avoid the worst excesses of the crack. Then up mossy wall.
FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard - 1999-10-29
    Infinity     IMG 30m 16trad
 It's not 19 and it's not at Frog.
Start as for Humbug.

Up the crack swinging right into the corner when possible. Up corner to ledge then up wall above.
FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard - 1999-10-26
    The First Affinity 24m 18trad
 Originally the first pitch to Affinity (Hum Terrace) but the two are rarely done as one climb.
Easy wall and around right of Anchorman's Delight. Either go directly up bulging wall past dubious flake or move left to corner and then climb up and right to regain the line. Continue steeply up black streak.
FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepher - 1979-09-02
    Cognitive Dissonance     IMG 30m 21trad
 Pump-action. Worthwhile.
Start as for The First Affinity.
Up short wall to ledge then climb up middle of face behind small conifer (5 metres right of The First Affinity) to gain break through roofs. Through these and up.
FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet - 1999-10-27

Recent Ascents

kieranl BitterblueSteep with good gear.second (clean)192011-01-07
kieranl Anchors AwayExciting bulges. Should be more popular.second (clean)152010-06-19

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