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The Australian Route Register

Mt Pleasant


Crag:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 07. Stapylton - Campground
This area is locked for editing by the parent crag. Route additions are allowed.
Description:A small cliff within easy flat walking distance of the Mt Stapylton Campground. The sort of thing you stumble across when killing time on a miserable wet weekend - and quite useful on those sorts of occasions. Only a few routes are actualy worth climbing here and some of the bolting is questionable (ie routes are contrived, short or bolts are right next to bomber trad)
Location:From the Aboriginal art site car park cross the creek (involves fighting through unpleasant thick new growth but is mercifully short) to the open flats beyond. Turn left and follow these flats for about 10 minutes to a small steep block distinguished by a large red overhang/cave across the front of the main buttress. The cliff has two prominent corner lines on its left side. The right hand one starts above the left end of the main cave and can be accessed from a handy block, this is OP&OH.
Rock:   Walk:   5-15 mins
Wet Weather:Soaked
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:nmonteith


Issues

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Routes

1 :     Abbren 8m 6trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Crack line at far east end of cliff.
FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett - 2007-01-08
2 :     Free Hangin 12m 5trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 1 metre left of face with two FHs. Bridge between crack and sidewall, exit through the V break at the top of the crack.
FA: Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless - 2006-10-03
3 :     Kymba 12m 16mixed
Walk-off
Toprope
 Contrived, with bolts right next to crack. Shallow cracks, right of fixed hangers, to pocket move to orange rock and straight up to finish at shallow V at top. Don't use boulder to start.
FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett - 2006-12-17
4 :     Sheila G 12m 5trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Another mega line - not. Use boulder to start and gain arete, up to jugs and over.
FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett - 2007-01-12
5 :     Alpine Experience 12m 6trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Optimistic. First corner right of Shiela G. Pull up into knobbly corner and work up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge and continue up bridging corner. Some holds are brittle.
FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless - 2007-01-08
6 :     Hunter Valley   -   verified 12m 12trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Around left of OP&OH is another obvious corner line with an overhang at the top. The juggy cracks in the wall left of the corner then the line up the arete.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox - 2001-06-10
7 :     Mumjoy     IMG 12m 18mixed
Walk-off
Toprope
 In memory of Cameron's mother who died late 2006. Obvious V crack with slight roof left of OP&OH. Begin as of Hunter Valley, traversing right into crack past FH. Follow crack line into roof, move out left under roof following crack to the top. Second may have a swing - two ropes might be useful.
FA: Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless and Chris Tamavic - 2006-12-16
8 :     OP&OH   -   verified     IMG 12m 14trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 The corner starting above the left end of the roof of the cave. From the top of the large block haul into the line and up.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox - 2001-06-10
9 :     Whinery Tour 20m 14trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Start as for OP&OH. Do the crux of that route, then traverse right above the void until able to finish up the next corner.
FA: Stu Dobbie, Jim Kane, Jack Lewis - 2005-04-17
10 :     Rosehill   -   verified     IMG 10m 17trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Around right of the cave is an overhanging corner. Good jamming.

FA: Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong - 2001-06-10
11 :     Project 8m - mixed
 Single FH with red tag.
FA: Cameron ect?
12 :     Philip   -   verified 10m 5trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 The easy chimney right of Rosehill.

FA: Jeremy Maddox - 2001-06-10
13 :     Battle of the Bulge 12m 15trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 The third route with this name in the Grampians! Next crack in the block after Phillip. Crank up crack and over middle of the bulge. Gear is thin. Originally climbed by bailing right into Elizabeth under the bulge 02-12-2006.
FA: Trevor Wall, Meily Effendy, Leigh Colless and Chris Tamavic - 2007-01-11
14 :     Elizabeth   -   verified 10m 16trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 The wide crack right of Philip. Take a large cam (Camalot 4+).

FA: Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong - 2001-06-10
15 :     Semillon   -   verified 12m 16trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Nice wall climbing up the left leading flake on the wall right of Elizabeth finishing up the short hanging corner. Worth doing.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox - 2001-06-10
16 :     Lovedale   -   verified 10m 14trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 The knobbly cracks up the wall just right of the start of Semillon.

FA: Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong - 2001-06-10
17 :     Homebrew 9m 14trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Flake crack and shallow corner 3m right of Lovedale. Also written up by C.Barrett as Dadjoe in '06.
FA: Ben Wright, Peter Kello, William Swinson - 2005-04-17
18 :     If You’re Short, We Can Help 8m 17mixed
Walk-off
Toprope
 Accidently retro-bolted and written up by C.Barrett in '07. 5m right of Homebrew, good moves up orange wall. Up through double pock hole past FH to sidepulls, and straight up above horizontal break.
FA: Ben Wright, Peter Kello - 2005-04-17
19 :     Leigh's Right 6m 16mixed
Walk-off
Toprope
 Why was this bolted? 1m right of the previous route. Single FH up very short wall. Better to boulder this one.
FA: Leigh Colless, Cameron Barrett - 2007-01-08

Recent Ascents

ianneilsen Mumjoyaccidentally ticked, havent climbed - cant get rid of itfree2009-10-20

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