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The Australian Route Register


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Doddery Rock


Crag:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 07. Stapylton - Campground
This area is locked for editing by the parent crag. Route additions are allowed.
Description:A very small plug of rock more suitable for bouldering than actual roped climbing. Ignoring that fact there are now 12 routes squeezed onto this 40 square metre block!
Location:Located about 40m before you reach the main Mt Pleasant clifff line. There are climbs on all sides, so shade is possible all day. A bouldering mat could be more useful than a rope and rack.
Rock:   Walk:   5-15 mins
Wet Weather:Damp
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:nmonteith


Issues

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Routes

1 :     No Respite 8m 17trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 ... from this major endurance route? Starts 3m right of GAFTO. Start at orange crack between tree and small cave. Move through cracks and slightly left, up past bollard to easier ground.
FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett - 2007-01-12
2 :     Getting Away From the Olds 6m 3trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Not exactly inspiring. On the the North face (the first face you reach).
FA: Trevor Wall (solo) - 2007-01-09
3 :     Nose Hairs 8m 8trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Obvious chimney. Free hanging start, pull up into chimney. About halfway move out slightly right, up over protruding block. Move back on line to top.
FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Coles - 2006-10-03
4 :     Pension Days 8m 7trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Start on the white rock on the South East corner. Up to horizontal break, then follow this left 4m. Through tree to shallow corner above, move left to finish.
FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron barrett - 2007-01-13
5 :     Granpa's Y-Fronts 8m 7trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 2m left of Pension Days. Up through shallow cracks and breaks.
FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett - 2007-01-13
6 :     Walking Frame 10m 7trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Move left up ramp, 1m left of Y-Fronts, to crack and up.
FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett - 2007-01-12
7 :     Walking Frame Direct 8m 10trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Hanging start to gain crack and up.
FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett - 2006-09-04
8 :     Saggy Jugs 8m 12trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Start left around corner from boulder, working right up to large jug on corner. Then straight up to the top on thinning holds. Pro is thin.
FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless - 2007-01-11
9 :     Leigh Project 8m - mixed
10 :     Trevs Project 8m - mixed
11 :     To Be Young 7m 20sport
Lower-off
Toprope
 Why was this bolted? Bring a boulder mat and enjoy the freedom. Two starts - tall people start left at big crack. Stick-clip first ring bolt. Climb towards ring bolt then out left to jug, back into centre pockets and up. 3 rings in all, and triple rings on top.
FA: Trevor Wall - 2007-01-11
12 :     Staying Grey 7m 16trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Start 1.5m left of To Be Young. Work straight up the jugs until you hit ramp. Work right up ramp and over. Thin gear.
FA: Trevor Wall, Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless, Meily Effendy - 2007-01-12
13 :     Ulcerations 6m 7trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Left 1.5m of Staying Grey. Follow obvious jugs up diagonally left to narrow slot in face that leads to V-break.
FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless - 2007-01-11

Recent Ascents

Sasha Granpa's Y-Frontsonsight0000-00-00

Copyright, ACA, 2012