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The Australian Route Register


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Barbican Rocks


Crag:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 05. Mt. William Range
      - 03. Redmans Road
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:This Cliff is most famous for The Lonely Sea Block which boasts a handful of absolute Grampians classics. Whilst the routes around The Lonely Sea are on many climbers tick lists it would be a shame if the other routes here were ignored. For the adventurous trad climber looking for single and multi pitch routes in the 18+ range there are some good outings to be had. Like Barbican Wall this is a good summer destination as the cliff is shady for much of the day, and thankfully the rock here at Barbican Rocks is markedly better than Barbican Wall. Be warned however that a number of the older easier routes ascend some of the most disgusting looking gully lines ever climbed and recorded as routes. Some work still needs to be done clearly identifying where some of the more recent routes are actually located.
Location:Follow Redmans Rd 3.7km from the Halls Gap/Dunkeld Rd. A small bridge crosses Barney's Creek here. Park just the bridge. Cross back over the bridge and head uphill looking out for the odd tape marker. There is no real track. With a few new abseil stations this area is a little more user friendly but more are needed. At present mechanical abseil anchors are only available at the top of TLS block and above Pineapple Jack. Neither of these are accessible after topping out on the cliff. If climbing at the RH end of the cliff find a tree to abseil off, there are enough of them around. At the LH end there is a steep unstable descent gully just L of Pineapple Jack
Rock:   Walk:   5-15 mins
Wet Weather:Soaked
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:willmonks


Issues

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Routes

    Sink or Swim   -   verified 15m 17trad
Walk-off
 At the top of the descent gully at the LH end of cliff, 40m up L from Pineapple Jack. A L leading flake leading to a bulge.
Up flake, step R at bulge, up.
FA: Stephen Hamilton, Peter Woolford - 1991-04-02
1 :     Pineapple Jack   -   verified     IMG 26m 19trad
Rap-anchor
 Good climbing with some sections of fragile rock and fiddly gear.
Starts at the very left of the cliff, part way up the descent gully, on a short nice west facing wall.
Start up Captain Snowball for about 6m and traverse L past big rattley flake onto wall. Up and L to steep moves, slightly R and up to ledge
FA: Chris Baxter, Tim Burke - 1990-12-31
2 :     Captain Snowball   -   verified     IMGIMG 25m 13trad
Rap-anchor
 Very good climbing with good pro. The best easy route in the Barbican region.
Starts up prominent crack on west facing buttress at the far left end of the cliff
Up the crack and corner to ledge.
FA: Chris Baxter, Ross Taylor - 1990-10-28
    My Uncle's a Sailor 20m 18trad
 20m R of Pineapple Jack, accessed via a narrow ledge. Start below the L edge of a narrow buttress.
Up easy blocky cracks just L of buttress to ledge at 6m. Line up and R onto L edge of narrow buttress. Up line to finish up shallow thin crack in headwall [which can be protected with a bit of fiddling]. If you have an old sling to leave abseil off of one of the large pillars, otherwise an easy roped scramble up the gully under the chockstone lands you in the descent gully.
FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody - 2010-05-22
    Dubloon 73m 9trad
 Takes a major line up the L side of the 2nd buttress from the LH end of cliff. Initialled.
FA: John Moore, Daryl Carr, Jerry Grandage [var] - 1966-04-00
P1(30m, 9)Up crack for 10m then R to arete and up corner gully.
P2(30m, 9)From chocktone climb wall then step back R to thin horizontal flake. Up to ledge.
P3(13m, 9)Up chimney crack and wall.
3 :     Plunder the Spanish Main     IMG 65m 21trad
 Excellent climbing up a nice line.
10m R of Dubloon.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Dignan - 1978-01-21
P1(20m, 21)Small R facing corner then thin bulging line.
P2(45m, -)Step back L, up wall to ledge. Straight up next wall then veer slightly R to climb wall just R of wide crack.
4 :     Long Johns   -   verified 83m 18trad
 Better than it looks, the second pitch is quite good.
Crack 4m R of PSM
FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth [alt] - 1973-01-06
P1(42m, 18)Line to ledge with a tricky move at half height.
P2(41m, 18)Crack to cave, steeply out of this and up wall to ledge [good belay spot]. Up more easily from here.
    Massive Attack 20m 21trad
 Right of Long Johns is a bushy gully. Start R of this.
The cracked wall. Abseil from tree.
FA: Wayne Maher, Pia Larque - 1999-11-20
5 :     Blackbeard 84m 12trad
 Not destined to be a classic.
Scrubby L slanting crack just R of MA.
FA: Rein Kamar, Bob Connell [alt] - 1972-12-31
P1(25m, 12)Up scrubby crack to tree.
P2(39m, 12)Chimney then loose blocks to foot of corner.
P3(20m, 10)Corner and crack
    Blackbeard Variant   -   verified 24m 16trad
 Best done as a short route in its own right, then abseil off. Fun.
As for Blackbeard.
Attractive R slanting crack leading out of Blackbeard. Step L to offwidth. Take a large cam. A bit of a roped wander should get you to a suitable tree to abb off.
FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Martin - 1982-01-09
    Bowrail 21m 19trad
Rap-anchor
 V corner leading to roof down R of Blackbeard.
From V corner move R to nose, L around roof and up to second tree. Abseil from this.
FA: Peter Martin, Mark Savage - 1992-11-08
    All at Sea     IMG 30m 19trad
 Enjoyable wall climbing which moves between the 2 seams to find the easiest way up.
2m R of Bowrail, 2 thin lines. Start from large slanting block on ground.
From block head up L line over some suspect blocks, to overhang. Traverse to RH line, and up it until you can move back to L line which leads to ledge. Up from here to join one of neighbouring climbs or find an abseil tree.
FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Martin - 1982-01-09
6 :     All at Sea Direct     IMG 35m 21trad
 A harder and better version of AatS
As for AatS
Take the L seam all the way.
FA: Peter Martin, James Finlay - 1992-11-08
7 :     Sea Scape 30m 21trad
 Takes the R line direct
Corner 2m R of AatS
Follow R line all the way.
FA: Peter Martin, Bruno Sanker - 1992-11-08
8 :     And a Bottle of Rum   -   verified     IMG 93m 18trad
 A lovely sustained first pitch with excellent protection.
4m R of AatS
FA: Peter McKeand, Tim Hancock - 1973-01-07
FFA: Kevin Lindorff [1 point] - 1976-00-00
P1(25m, 18)Up the flake
P2(23m, 17)Step R and climb overhanging wall to corner and chimney.
P3(45m, 10)Corners and cracks as for Blackbeard.
9 :     What You See Is What You Get     IMG 70m 20trad
 P 1 is strenous and sustained.
3m R of AaBoR.
FA: P1 with 1 aid Wayne Maher, Glenn Donohue 28-10-1990. Complete route Stephen Hamilton, Peter Stevens - 1990-12-31
FFA: Stephen Hamilton 1 point. - 1990-00-00
P1(25m, 20)Up to large flake on ledge. Climb impressive cracked wall above to belay on L as for AaBoR.
P2(20m, 18)R and up overhanging wall. Up and R to wall. Up this past horizontal break to large ledge.
P3(25m, 18)Up wall just R of arete with poor pro.
10 :     Bottle of Rum variants     IMG 80m 18trad
 A good sustained combination of 3 well protected grade 18 pitches.
A for AaBoR
FA: Various parties
P1(25m, 18)Climb flake in middle of wall. [As for AaBoR]
P2(25m, 18)R and up overhanging wall. Up and R to wall, up this past horizontal break then bearing R ward near top to belay below steep crack just R of chimney gully. [As for WYSIWYG]
P3(30m, 18)Up the steep crack, watch the rock in the first few meters. [As for Jolly Roger DF]
11 :     Yo Ho Ho 90m 12trad
 You'd need at least a bottle of rum in you to even imagine that this was worth climbing.
2m R of WYSIWYG big corner line. Marked with an X, possibly as some kind of warning.
FA: Chris Baxter, Michael Stone [alt], Peter McKeand - 1972-12-31
P1(40m, 12)Vegetated line.
P2(50m, 12)More of the same only worse. Up the hideous cleft above.
    Crocks on the Rocks 18m 17trad
 Not positively identified
On the left side of the wall facing AaBoR. Presumably R of Yo Ho Ho.
Crack to ledge. Scramble off R over buttress to abseil tree.
FA: Wayne Maher, Derek Vissor - 1995-12-30
12 :     Jolly Roger 100m 13trad
 Ugly cleft 10m R of YHH. Initialled.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore [alt] - 1966-03-13
P1(30m, 12)Up cleft trying to ignore terrifying looking chockstone, then arete to ledge.
P2(14m, 12)Crack to overhang, L to ledge.
P3(20m, 12)Climb wall, step R to crack and up past overhangs to large ledge.
P4(36m, 13)P 3 comes out directly beneath prominent steep crack. Up the R ward leading line R of this to overhangs [there is a mysterious old peg out L here]. Exposed traverse R to next crack, up.
    Jolly Roger Direct Finish 30m 18trad
 A prominent crack line with some sustained jamming.
As for P4 of Jolly Roger
The steep crack. Watch the rock in the first few meters.
FA: Philip Armstrong, Rob Burton - 2007-02-26
13 :     Landlubber Port Side 90m 19trad
 Not so much an independent route as an attempt to do something useful with the neat little corner which Landlubber starts up before it spends the next 80+m in dirty gullies. Whilst not great this variant does stay on real rock the whole way.
10m R of Jolly Roger is a R facing corner.
FA: Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong [alt] - 2009-10-31
P1(45m, 19)Up corner with a couple of intense moves near the top. At top of corner head up L to shallow groove, up this to smooth slab, move L below slab into Jolly Roger.
P2(15m, 12)Up crack as for Jolly Roger to large terrace [you arrive directly under the obvious vertical crack line of And a Bottle of Rum variant finish 18]
P3(30m, 16)Follow R leaning line R of JRDF finishing up headwall. [Jolly Roger P4 starts up this line but traverses off R about level with the old rusty peg below the overhangs]
14 :     Landlubber 105m 19trad
 After the first nice corner the climb deteriorates badly.
As for LPS
FA: Keith Lockwood, Andrew Thomson [alt] - 1972-12-31
P1(62m, 19)Up corner as for LPS then up and R to line of blocks, up these. [I am sure it must be possible to split this pitch]
P2(25m, -)From top block climb choss to join The Plank at its final chimney.
P3(18m, 14)Chimney.
15 :     The Plank 105m 14trad
 Walking the plank would be preferable. Even the first ascent party said it was unbelievable choss.
L facing line 5m R of Landlubber. Initialled.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter [alt] - 1969-03-10
P1(26m, 14)Line to cave.
P2(30m, -)From cave go diagonally R over loose blocks, continue up line to exit up R.
P3(8m, -)Scrub and the line to next ledge.
P4(23m, -)Traverse L to chimney, up to ledge.
P5(18m, -)Up.
16 :     Keelhaul 112m 13trad
 It starts off promisingly but then goes out of its way to find dirty gullies. Best to abseil off of the top of The Lonely Sea block after P2 or do the direct finish.
10m down and R of The Plank
FA: Geoff Gledhill, Phillip Gledhill, Alan Gledhill [var] - 1969-03-10
P1(38m, 13)Climb corner just L of arete to a large alarming looking pinnacle. Up behind this to ledge.
P2(26m, 10)R and up gully to terrace at top of Lonely Sea wall[possible to abseil off from here]
P3(18m, -)Up diagonal crack in steep wall behind terrace for a few meters to a horizontal break. Traverse L on this around arete to foot of gully.
P4(30m, -)Up gully.
17 :     Keelhaul Direct 104m 15trad
 Makes for a reasonable middle grade outing. The top 2 pitches have been climbed many times over the years by people continuing to the top from The Lonely Sea terrace.
As for Keelhaul
FA: Unknown
P1(38m, 13)As for Keelhaul P1
P2(26m, 10)As for Keelhaul P2
P3(25m, 15)Climb the steep R leading diagonal crack up the wall behind The Lonely Sea terrace to a large ledge.
P4(15m, 10)Up middle of face behind ledge.
18 :     Heavy Seas     IMG 60m 21trad
Rap-anchor
 Exposed voyage up the L arete of The Lonely Sea wall.
3m R of Keelhaul.
FA: Kim Karrigan, Mike Law, Peter Watson [var] - 1978-03-05
P1(15m, 21)Climb the arete on the L side of the wall with a few hard moves past a fixed peg.
P2(25m, 21)Up shallow corner, traverse R under triangular overhang, then L under next overhang and up to ledge.
P3(20m, 18)Climb corner,then R under roof. Up strenuously around arete and up to terrace.
19 :     The Lonely Sea   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 51m 20trad
Rap-anchor
 One of the great classics of Grampians climbing. It takes the steep and strenuous crack up the L side of the wall.
8m R of HS.
FA: Michael Stone, Chris Dewhirst [alt] Ian Ross - 1973-00-00
P1(18m, 18)Climb the L facing corner. Swing R at the overhang to a small stance.
P2(33m, 20)Up the thin crack to narrow ledge, head steeply into the overhanging crack, and up this [A large cam or 2 is useful]. Move R and up at the top then more easily to the terrace.
20 :     The Lonely Race   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 45m 19trad
Rap-anchor
 A combination of routes which has become very popular. A good option for those who would rather climb an overhanging wall than an overhanging crack.
P1(18m, 18)As for The Lonely Sea
P2(27m, 19)Up The Lonely Sea to the horizontal ledge. Up under overhangs tending R to the sentry box on The Last Grain Race. Up thin crack airily past an old peg on a steep wall. Step R and up past a couple of steps to the terrace.
21 :     The Last Grain Race   -   verified     IMG 50m 19trad
Rap-anchor
 Another old classic, overshadowed by the variants which use bits of it to make better climbs.
Crack 4m R of TLS.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter McKeand [alt] - 1973-00-00
FFA: Kevin Lindorff [3 points] - 1975-00-00
P1(32m, 19)Up the crack L of the pillar to a narrow ledge at 23m [possible belay], move L a few moves and up crack to sentry box. Steeply up thin crack past old peg. Step R to small stance.
P2(18m, 15)Steep crack then easier walls and cracks to terrace.
22 :     La Mer Direct   -   verified     IMGIMG 45m 19trad
Rap-anchor
 Combines the best bits of La Mer and The Last Grain Race in a direct line. Intimidating climbing in exhilarating positions.
As for TLGS
Up the crack as for TLGS to the narrow ledge [possible belay]. A rotten crack leads to a sentry box directly above. Gulp a couple of times then climb out onto the wall above, scurry quickly L to a crack, up this to a ledge [original belay spot]. Continue up cracks and corners to terrace.
23 :     
La Mer
51m 19trad
Rap-anchor
 The first pitch is loose and unprotected making it hard to recommend the route in this form despite the good climbing higher up. Do the Direct instead.
2m R of TLGR.
FA: Chris Baxter, Michael Stone [alt] - 1977-04-25
P1(23m, 19)Up R side of shattered pillar then the flake above to a ledge. Step L and follow thin crack to cramped stance.
P2(18m, 19)Rotten crack to sentry box. Exposed moves up onto wall above. Step L to thin crack and up to ledge.
P3(10m, 15)Step R to short crack, up this and steps above.
24 :     The Old Men and the Sea   -   verified     IMG 54m 18trad
Rap-anchor
 Despite a few bushes on the first pitch this is a wothwhile route giving the easiest ascent of The Lonely Sea wall.
5m R of TLGR
FA: Chris Baxter, Michael Stone [alt] - 1978-03-05
P1(18m, 18)The crack to a ledge on R.
P2(18m, 15)Up the big flakes to belay at the top of the second one.
P3(18m, 13)Traverse 2m L and climb crack.
25 :     Lonely Finish 20m 18trad
 If continuing to the top of the cliff this pitch provides some technical interest.
From the terrace at the top of The Lonely Sea block.
The wall behind the terrace has an obvious diagonal crack [Keelhaul Direct]. R of this is a thin crack in orange rock. Up steep thin crack easing towards top. Finish as for Keelhaul Direct.
FA: Philip Armstrong, Jerry Maddox - 1999-04-11
26 :     Frigate 99m 16trad
 The top 2 1/2 pitches are OK, but getting there is not.
As for TOMatS. Initialled.
FA: Ian Guild, Mike Stone [var] - 1966-03-13
FFA: Chris Baxter [1 point] - 1976-00-00
P1(45m, -)Up the obvious vegetated ramp to a ledge at 20m. Up chimney for 10m exiting R. Up to a large ledge.
P2(20m, 13)Move to back of ledge, go R 6m, then up weakness to foot of crack
P3(17m, 15)The steep crack to a ledge.
P4(17m, 16)Chimney to old unnecessary BR on R then awkward wide crack.
27 :     Sloop 98m 9trad
 A direct finish to Frigate avoiding the only good pitch on that route. The second pitch chimney looks frightening and is likely to be undergraded by modern standards.
As for Frigate
FA: Alan Gledhill, Geoff Gledhill [var] - 1967-03-26
P1(45m, -)As for Frigate P1
P2(34m, 9)The big chimney taking off from the L back of the ledge. Belay below the large chockstone.
P3(19m, -)Up L of the chockstone.
    Randrubbers 28m 21mixed
Rap-anchor
 8m R of Frigate
Arete past 2 ledges. Scoop on R, then scoop on L to BR. Up then L over pedestal to double PR. Up, slightly R to ledge and BR. Up to R to belay block. Abseil from tree, 50m rope doubled just reaches ground.
FA: Dayle Gilliatt - 1995-02-04
    Starboard Bow   -   verified     IMG 28m 18trad
Rap-anchor
 Good short one to finish the day.
25m R of Frigate, 2m L of a largely free standing pillar.
Sustained thin crack. Find a tree to abseil off.
FA: Stephen hamilton, Chris Baxter, Tim Burke, Peter Stevens. - 1990-12-31
30 :     Lost in the Wild, Wild Sea. 25m 19trad
Rap-anchor
 First proper buttress R of Sloop [perhaps 70m R] as next section of cliff starts. I'm not certain about this route. But there is a fairly closed and dirty looking corner and seam that I assume is the route.
Corner and seam. Finish up wall above.
FA: Mark Savage, Ben Shui - 1992-11-06
31 :     Jamaica 58m 19trad
Rap-anchor
 Quite good climbing, especially the first pitch. It is possible to abseil off after the first pitch.
On the R side of the first solid buttress R of Starboard Bow. 15m R of what I assume is Lost in the Wild, Wild Seas
FA: Jerry Maddox, Philip Armstrong [alt] - 2007-03-11
P1(28m, 18)Up shallow corner heading towards a small overhang at 6m. Exit L from the corner at the good holds. Nice climbing up the seams to stance below short corner, tricky moves up this to ledge.
P2(20m, 19)5m up chimney, R onto ledges, up R leading flake line to horizontal break, step out R and up onto narrow ledge on front of buttress. Up face to good ledge.
P3(10m, 18)R hand crack in short wall then easily. Continue up easy ground to top or scramble down L to trees and abseil.
32 :     Sea Legs 55m 20trad
Rap-anchor
 Two solid pitches.
5m R of Jamaica. 10m L of Buccaneer and 3m L of a chimney.
FA: David Gairns, Chris Baxter - 1990-12-01
P1(27m, 19)Thin crack to the second ledge.
P2(28m, 20)From the next ledge climb awkward seam and step L to foot of middle crack,up this to terrace. Find tree to abseil off.
33 :     Bouy Toy 27m 17trad
Rap-anchor
 A bit artificial, struggles to keep out of the chimney.
Arete 2m R of SL
Arete avoiding chimney on R until level with large ledge on R. Up this 5m to abseil tree.
FA: Chris Baxter, Tim Burke - 1990-12-21
34 :     Haul Away     IMG 27m 22trad
Rap-anchor
 Gymnastic climbing on good rock.
3m R of BT
Finger crack and seams up the red buttress between the chimney on the L and the chimney of Buccaneer. Above the crux climb L arete to top of buttress. Descend as for BT.
FA: Stephen Hamilton, Peter Stevens - 1990-12-31
35 :     Buccaneer 81m 8trad
 Initalled chimney 4m R of HA.
FA: Alan Geldhill, Geoff Gledhill [alt] - 1967-03-24
P1(35m, 8)Climb the narrow chimney passing in front of 2 chockstones to the top of the boulder choke.
P2(33m, 8)Up chimney 6m to chockstone. Traverse 10m L along ledge, cross scrubby gully and climb short wall. Continue to second wall and up this to ledge.
P3(13m, 8)Climb wall R of crack.
36 :     Boys Will Be Bouys 58m 18trad
Rap-anchor
 Sustained and strenuous. P2 is an old fashioned wide crack thrutch. OK if you like that kind of thing. Take some big cams [BD4 x 2]
Thin crack 4m R of Buccaneer.
FA: David Gairns, Chris Baxter [alt] Peter Canning - 1990-12-02
P1(28m, 18)Thin crack to ledge with tree. Awkward moves up corner to pinnacle on R.
P2(30m, 18)Traverse 2m L and up corner on suss rock to overhang. Up wide bulging crack to terrace. Abseil from tree down R.
37 :     Capn Flint     IMG 30m 18trad
Rap-anchor
 Around the arete R of Boys will be Buoys is a prominent crack line up the R wall of the buttress. Access the ledge below the crack via the short wide crack or walk in from the R.
Steep and exciting climbing up to and up the crack. Take a large cam [BD4] for the top. Abseil off tree at top of crack.
FA: Philip Armstrong, Jerry Maddox - 2007-03-11
    Heave Ho 118m 16trad
 After a reasonable first pitch the climb degenerates. Possible and best to abseil off after P2.
36m R of CF and 20m R of a landmark pinnacle leaning against the rock. Initialled corner.
FA: Rein Kamar, Bob Connell [alt] - 1973-01-06
FFA: Chris Baxter [1 point on P2] - 1989-02-04
P1(25m, -)Climb up to and up corner until 5m below overhang. Out R briefly onto wall then continue up corner and over overhang. Up until level with tree on R. Traverse to tree.
P2(20m, 16)Climb V chimney and overhang. Up 2m then R across slab to stance. [Abseil tree across R from here]
P3(30m, -)Up R over hideous choss to foot of chimney.
P4(23m, -)Chimney to large chockstone.
P5(20m, -)Back into the bowels of the earth to emerge through a small hole.

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