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The Ravine


Crag:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 08. Winfields Rd and Smiths Rd Crags
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:One of the most popular easy sport crags in the Grampians. A secret lush valley hidden away behind the olive plantation and only discovered with the help of Google Earth! This place is made for summer. There are two sides to the crag, the south facing shady vertical face and the north facing steep cave. The vertical face is in shade until 4pm in summer, the sport cave gets a little morning sun but is steep enough not to greatly affect the climbing. This is not a great place in winter as it doesn't get any sun at all.

The North Vertical Wall looks and climbs like a mix of Kentucky's Red River Gorge and the Blue Mountains. Because of the shady aspect there is quite a bit of lichen and moss on this wall, but the good routes climb the clean lines between these curtains of vegetation. Hopefully with a few more repeats these routes will become totally clean. The routes on the left side climb very nicely on polished orange rock with remarkable jugs, the right side routes are gritty and a little crumbly underfoot.

This Ravine has been developed as a safe sport climbing venue. It has a plethora of bolts and rap anchors. All new routes should follow this example of nicely spaced and well installed equipment. Expect retro-bolts if your route is too runout! If you want to establish scary death routes please go elsewhere.

If it all gets too hot, there are several waist deep swimming holes 200m further up the ravine and some more minor ones downstream about 200m. They tend to be a bit stagnant in late summer. DO NOT SHIT ANYWHERE NEAR THE CREEK! (yes, some idiot had already done this.)

There has been some recent complaints from local bush walkers about the Ravine climbing area. Try and keep to these self-imposed rules when climbing here. 1) limit the numbers of climbers in your group (no more than 5?) No uni clubs, VCC trips etc. 2) no new routes 3) no toilet activities anywhere near the crag itself (and bury your paper!) 4) leave your cars parked at Stapylton camp if you have more than 1 5) be courteous to any non-climbers in the area 6) take out any rubbish you find (even if it isn't yours)

Location:From Stapylton Campground drive west along Olive Plantation Road towards Grampians Road. Park at the first left turn after about a kilometre at a sandy hump with a gate. These locked gates were recently installed at either end of the sandy access track (February 2009) so now you have to walk (not drive) south for aprox 2.5 kms down the sandy fireroad the runs on the east side of the olive plantation (parallel to Winfield road, but further east). At the 2nd distinct sharp 90 degree bend walk 50m further on and arrive at 15m high cliffline (Truckstop Wall) and large boulders on the left side of the road. Locate yellow tape markers and follow gully up left from cliff line then head directly east up the gentle hill through thick bush. Eventually you will reach the top of the hill and get a clear view down onto the Ravine Crag (about 500m west). Follow cairns and red tape markers down the hill and trending right along the edge of the valley to reach the crag. Don't head straight down into the valley floor until the very last minute - it's a nightmare of thick vegetation! The last 50m of the track is pretty thick bush and you might get your feet wet if it has been raining! Cross the creek bed at right angles to hit the Northern Wall on the left side. Skirt right along base of this for 100m to reach the first routes. Total walking time - 40 minutes including the easy road. Wear long pants until the track gets established. Mosquitoes lurk in the water holes - bring repellent if your girly scent attracts them!
Rock:   Walk:   30-60 mins
Wet Weather:Seeps
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:mrkyle


Issues

Map One

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Map One

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(scaled down)

Routes

1 :     Violent Crumble   -   verified 18m 23sport
6 bolts
Lower-off
 The overhung bolted arete just right of a deep chimney where the track first meets the cliff.
Climb overhanging arete to a rest, then crux on slopes to the lower-off anchor. The first few metres are poor quality rock, suggest a stick clip. Maybe grade 24 if you're short?
FA: Muki Woods - 2008-08-08
    Glue Mountains   -   verified 20m 18sport
8 bolts
Lower-off
 Blue mountains like climbing on small edges. Lone route on clean wall between Violent Crumble and Brush with Authority. Starts in the trees up on to ledge to face which gets steeper near the top.
FA: Adam Demmert & Catherine de Vaus - 2008-10-11
2 :     Brush with Authority   -   verified 16m 21sport
6 bolts
Lower-off
 The far left route on the grid bolted section of cliff, and just right of the roof section. Boulder up just right of short arete on pockets to horizontal. Head up and left onto brushed streak. Weave your way up this crimpy face to top past a few bulges. Finish is a tad runout. 6 FHs and clip-and-go lower-off.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2008-03-16
3 :     Lake Thelma   -   verified     IMGIMG 18m 21sport
7 bolts
Lower-off
 2nd route from the left with FHs and about 3m left of Try Land. Thin moves to a rest in the scoop then battle the bulge and continue up the headwall. Awesome rock quality! Traverse right to anchors on Try Land.
FA: Steve Chapman, Will Monks & Ross Timms - 2008-02-16
4 :     Try Land   -   verified     IMGIMG 17m 20sport
7 bolts
Lower-off
 The left most route with ringbolts. Great polished jugs with a tricky opener. Slight left trend to start then up juggy face to small ledge. Out and right to finish. Seeps after heavy rain.
FA: Neil Monteith, Cath De Vaus & Adam Demmert - 2008-01-26
5 :     Pains Ford   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 18m 19sport
8 bolts
Lower-off
 The first and best route at the crag, borderline 3 stars? Unique for the Grampians - climbs and looks more like limestone. Great sustained climbing on water polished jugs. Surprisingly overhung. Located in the middle of the south face, directly in front of small pine tree. When it gets tough around the 5th bolt dog-leg left to find the better holds. Seeps for several days after heavy rain.
FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks - 2008-01-20
6 :     Pain Criminals Link-Up   -   verified     IMGIMG 18m 23sport
9 bolts
Lower-off
 Makes Portland Criminal doable for the average man - and gives good sustained climbing. Up Pains Ford to third ring bolt, then traverse right (FH) across horizontal break and large pocket into Portland Criminal and up this to top. WARNING - traverse bolt is currently loose.
FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert - 2008-08-03
7 :     Portland Criminals   -   verified     IMGIMG 18m 25sport
7 bolts
Lower-off
 Line of most resistance which involves some tiny crimpers. Starts 1m right of Pains Ford at right leading shelf. Very bouldery start past two RBs to break. Easier but still tricky climbing through the bulge then up the face above.
2008-08-03
FFA: Adam Demmert, Rich Ham & Neil Monteith
8 :     Hung Low Bay   -   verified     IMG 18m 24sport
7 bolts
Lower-off
 Warm up your fingers before tackling this feisty route. A soft tick if you can crimp. Begin at slab below very shallow left leaning corner about 4m right of Pains Ford. Crimpy past three ring bolts to juggy shelf. Easier wall above past another four rings to lower-off. On the second ascent Rich managed to snap off three key crux holds, upping the route from 23 to 24.
FA: Neil Monteith & Rich Ham - 2008-02-10
    Minced Beefeaters   -   verified 17m 21sport
Lower-off
 Mantle up to small pocket then crux crimps. Finish up juggy face to anchor. Ringbolts.
FA: Portland Lads - 2008-10-26
9 :     Waterfall Bogans   -   verified     IMG 18m 19sport
7 bolts
Lower-off
 Long wall with a delightful flake start. Starts just left of small tree at base of route. All fixed hangers and chain lower-off.
FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert - 2008-08-03
10 :     Hey Youse   -   verified     IMG 18m 18sport
7 bolts
Lower-off
 Sustained wall climbing on gritty crimpers and sloping horizontals. Feels almost Blue Mtns like. Start behind small tree growing at base about 5m right of Hung Low Bay. 7 bolts - 5 U bolts & 2 FHs and a double ring lower-off.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2008-02-24
11 :     Maximum Impact   -   verified 15m 15trad
Walk-off
 A trad route! Left facing corner about 50m right of the bolted routes on the main face. Will be retro bolted soon!
FA: Sean & ? - 2008-08-03
    Double Reverse and Pick Up Six 10m 12trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Another mossy trad route. Start approx 4m R of Maximum Impact on top of boulder. The direct start would be on the other side of boulder at the base of the tree but it is very mossy and was not climbed. Move up 3m, traverse right approx 2m then continue straight up to top out. Trad anchors behind block.

FA: James Orlebar & Damien Callahan - 2008-10-05
12 :     Ravinous   -   verified     IMG 15m 26sport
6 bolts
Lower-off
 Short, powerful and pumpy! Start at a series of pockets towards the left side of the cave. Head up and out on gritty slopers and funky footwork. Use long draws to stop bad rope drag.
FA: Ingvar Lidman - 2008-05-00
13 :     Ravine Machine     IMG 20m 26sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Climb the devious arching line 8m right of Ravinous. 5 FH's to rings.
FA: Malcolm Matheson - 2008-05-00
    Snap Dragon 2   -   verified     IMG 15m 25sport
6 bolts
Lower-off
 Starts off block next to Dark and Stormy. Stick clip 1st bolt. Crimpy start to pocket and jug. Up to undercling then bouldery crimpy crux to great position on arete. Pull onto juggy face and join Dark and Stormy at last bolt.
FA: Portland Lads - 2008-10-28
14 :     Dark and Stormy   -   verified 17m 19sport
6 bolts
Lower-off
Toprope
 First ascent at night in the pouring rain. May need a little brushing on the upper holds. Climbs the right edge of the Ravine Cave, with a slight left trend across an exposed face. Hard start then difficulty eases considerably once the left facing flake is reached at the half way point.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2008-08-09

Recent Ascents

Will_P Pains Fordonsight2012-12-22
Will_P Try Landonsight2012-12-22
Will_P Lake Thelmatop-rope (clean)2012-12-22
Will_P Hey Youseonsight2012-12-22
Will_P Waterfall Bogansonsight2012-12-22
Will_P Dark and Stormyonsight2012-12-22
Will_P Glue Mountainsonsight2012-12-22
pharmamatt Pains Fordfree192011-11-13
pharmamatt Dark and Stormyfree192011-11-13
ntierney Try Landonsight2011-10-08
mattbrooks Pains Fordonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Try Landonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Hung Low Bayonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Portland Criminalsfree2011-01-19
mattbrooks Lake Thelmaonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Hey Youseonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Brush with Authori...onsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Ravinousfree2011-01-19
mattbrooks Pain Criminals Lin...onsight2011-01-19

Copyright, ACA, 2012