- Gariwerd (The Grampians)
- 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
- 08. Winfields Rd and Smiths Rd Crags
|This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.|
|Description:||One of the most popular easy sport crags in the Grampians. A secret lush valley hidden away behind the olive plantation and only discovered with the help of Google Earth! This place is made for summer. There are two sides to the crag, the south facing shady vertical face and the north facing steep cave. The vertical face is in shade until 4pm in summer, the sport cave gets a little morning sun but is steep enough not to greatly affect the climbing. This is not a great place in winter as it doesn't get any sun at all.
The North Vertical Wall looks and climbs like a mix of Kentucky's Red River Gorge and the Blue Mountains. Because of the shady aspect there is quite a bit of lichen and moss on this wall, but the good routes climb the clean lines between these curtains of vegetation. Hopefully with a few more repeats these routes will become totally clean. The routes on the left side climb very nicely on polished orange rock with remarkable jugs, the right side routes are gritty and a little crumbly underfoot.
This Ravine has been developed as a safe sport climbing venue. It has a plethora of bolts and rap anchors. All new routes should follow this example of nicely spaced and well installed equipment. Expect retro-bolts if your route is too runout! If you want to establish scary death routes please go elsewhere.
If it all gets too hot, there are several waist deep swimming holes 200m further up the ravine and some more minor ones downstream about 200m. They tend to be a bit stagnant in late summer. DO NOT SHIT ANYWHERE NEAR THE CREEK! (yes, some idiot had already done this.)
There has been some recent complaints from local bush walkers about the Ravine climbing area. Try and keep to these self-imposed rules when climbing here. 1) limit the numbers of climbers in your group (no more than 5?) No uni clubs, VCC trips etc. 2) no new routes 3) no toilet activities anywhere near the crag itself (and bury your paper!) 4) leave your cars parked at Stapylton camp if you have more than 1 5) be courteous to any non-climbers in the area 6) take out any rubbish you find (even if it isn't yours)
|Location:||From Stapylton Campground drive west along Olive Plantation Road towards Grampians Road. Park at the first left turn after about a kilometre at a sandy hump with a gate. These locked gates were recently installed at either end of the sandy access track (February 2009) so now you have to walk (not drive) south for aprox 2.5 kms down the sandy fireroad the runs on the east side of the olive plantation (parallel to Winfield road, but further east). At the 2nd distinct sharp 90 degree bend walk 50m further on and arrive at 15m high cliffline (Truckstop Wall) and large boulders on the left side of the road. Locate yellow tape markers and follow gully up left from cliff line then head directly east up the gentle hill through thick bush. Eventually you will reach the top of the hill and get a clear view down onto the Ravine Crag (about 500m west). Follow cairns and red tape markers down the hill and trending right along the edge of the valley to reach the crag. Don't head straight down into the valley floor until the very last minute - it's a nightmare of thick vegetation! The last 50m of the track is pretty thick bush and you might get your feet wet if it has been raining! Cross the creek bed at right angles to hit the Northern Wall on the left side. Skirt right along base of this for 100m to reach the first routes. Total walking time - 40 minutes including the easy road. Wear long pants until the track gets established. Mosquitoes lurk in the water holes - bring repellent if your girly scent attracts them!|