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The Australian Route Register

Omega Block


Crag:VIC
  - Northwest Victoria (incl. Camel's Hump, Black Hill, Mt Alex and Ben Nevis)
    - 13. Camel's Hump
      - 01. Western Cliffs
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Rock:   Walk:   <5 mins
Wet Weather:Damp
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:willmonks


Issues

Routes

1 :     Sze 15m 12trad
2 :     Humping the Camel 18m 9trad
3 :     Drain Pipes 18m 8trad
4 :     Gunclub 7m 14trad
5 :     Spellbound 8m 19mixed
6 :     Remus 12m 4trad
7 :     Romulus 12m 5trad
8 :     Time Child 20m 18trad
 Mossy
9 :     Wishful Thinking     IMG 20m 16mixed
 The best easy route on Omega Block.
10 :     Witch RHF 20m 21mixed
11 :     Witch   -   verified     IMG 20m 17trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Gets 3 stars if you're blinded by your beard.
12 :     Witch LHF 20m 23mixed
 Superseded by "Boogie into Witch LHF".
13 :     Warlock   -   verified     IMGIMG 35m 19mixed
Lower-off
 For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory.
Start as for Witch.
Up Witch for 8m, traverse left across Boogie's flakes to the arete, and teeter leftwards around the arete across the slab. To get a nice quick lower-off descent, finish up Broomstick (as marked on Topo II below), but you can also finish up the mossy groove 2m R of Broomstick and top out if you prefer.
14 :     Boogie into Witch LHF   -   verified     IMG 18m 23sport
Rap-anchor
 A much better way to approach Witch LHF, with some nice independent moves in between.
Start as for Boogie.
Up Boogie to it's 4th FH, then continue direct up the technical face 1.5m R of the arete to below the roof. Finish as for Witch LHF over the roof and up the thin seam.
FA: Neil Monteith
15 :     First Touch   -   verified 25m 21sport
Walk-off
 Almost not worth recording as it's been almost completely superseded. Then again, many Melbourne locals will probably become desperate enough to do it at some point.
Start as for Boogie.
Up Boogie to its arete then trend diagonally R, through the little roof, and finish up Witch.
FA: Paul Cuthbert - 1994-04-17
16 :     Boogie 'til You Puke RHF 18m 23sport
Rap-anchor
 It's hard to see how this is any different to Boogie.
Start as for Boogie.
Up Boogie until it's 5th FH, then stay R of the arete and climb through the L side of the small roof.
FA: Matt Brooks
17 :     Boogie 'til You Puke   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 22m 21sport
Rap-anchor
 Almost certainly the most popular sport route within 3 hours' drive of Melbourne. Might be slightly solid for the grade... but it's a great route.
Start 3m L of Witch, beneath a short finger crack which starts about 4m up.
Boulder past FH and up short flake to 2nd FH. Step R and up finger crack (FH) to flakes. Follow these up L to arete, and a great finish up the arete past 2 FHs to DRB.
FA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft. early 80s
18 :     Boogie Direct   -   verified 22m 26sport
Rap-anchor
 It wanders more than Boogie so it's not direct at all! Written up at 25 until recent consensus emerged.
Start as for Boogie.
Up Boogie to the start of the finger crack. If you want to clip Boogie's 3rd FH use a long sling. Traverse trickily L to the arete past a RB, and up the arete briefly (RB), then hard moves back R into a R-leading flake (RB) which leads back into Boogie. Consider taping the end knuckle on your L ring finger for padding on the very intense crux hold.
FA: Matt Brooks
19 :     Boogie into Broomstick   -   verified     IMG 25m 23sport
Rap-anchor
 Meant to be ok.
Start as for Boogie.
As for Boogie Direct, but instead of going up the arete keep moving L and slightly up to meet Broomstick.
FA: Nick Taylor early 80s
20 :     Hollow Screams   -   verified     IMG 22m 29sport
Rap-anchor
 The hardest route around Melbourne.
Start 3m L of Boogie on the far R side of the big boulder.
Step R off the block straight into very hard climbing. After the 2nd bolt join Boogie Direct, try to resist the temptation to veer R before it.
FA: Matt Brooks - 1999-01-00
    Depravity 25m 27Unknown
6 bolts
 For those who like it painful. A harder start to Boogie Direct and a worthless link-up, but if you've done the rest...
As for Broomstick (with all the others)
Start as for Broomstick to jugs. Clip 3rd bolt with long runner then move diagonally right with some difficulty to join Boogie Direct/Hollow Screams at its original crux (26). Once done with the business do the right thing and finish up Boogie into Witch LHV.
FFA: Mark Rewi - 2012-00-00
21 :     Voodoo People   -   verified     IMG 22m 24mixed
Rap-anchor
 Salvages a precious sliver of hitherto ignored real estate for Melbourne's rock-poor locals.
Start as for Broomstick.
Up Broomstick to its 3rd RB then veer R up a faint rib (FH, optional #2 camalot) to gain the slabby bowl on the arete of the Warlock traverse. Turn the bulge above the middle of the bowl then up vertical face (2FH) staying 2m L of Boogie's arete, to DBB.
FA: A bit of a group effort through the late noughties!
22 :     Broomstick   -   verified     IMG 20m 24sport
Rap-anchor
 The notorious bouldery start makes grading difficult. Above that it's excellent at about 22.
Start off the top of the pinnacle/boulder just L of the Hollow Screams arete.
Boulder R past RB then up to jugs at 2nd RB. Trend L from 3rd RB and up faint rib/scoop. Take a bolt plate for the last bolt.
FA: Mike Law - 1982-01-00
23 :     Bewitched   -   verified     IMG 18m 24sport
Rap-anchor
 Another good route, this time just slightly harder than Broomstick, although the crux is still the bouldery start!
Start as for Broomstick.
Up to Broomstick's 2nd RB, then move L and up nice sustained face 1.5m L of Broomstick.
FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks - 1993-11-00
24 :     Bop 'til You Drop   -   verified     IMGIMG 18m 25mixed
Rap-anchor
Toprope
 Excellent, and not too hard for the grade.
Start 2m L of Broomstick, off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder.
Reachy crux moves up L to 2nd RB, then great steep moves directly up. 2nd and 3rd clips are both a bit exciting and, unless you want even more excitement, it needs a bit of trad at the top. The anchor can be carefully gained by walking to the top.
FA: Mark Moorhead - 1982-01-00
25 :     Satanic Verses   -   verified     IMG 18m 26mixed
Rap-anchor
Toprope
 This is the original which joins Bop halfway up.
Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder.
Hard moves up to a good pocket, then a few more hard moves. Move R to join Bop at it's 3rd RB.
FA: Matt Brooks
    Satan Said Dance     IMGIMG 20m 27sport
 Start up Bop for 2 bolts, move left and finish up Satanic Verses Direct.
FA: Alistair Robertson
26 :     Satanic Verses Direct   -   verified     IMGIMG 18m 27sport
Rap-anchor
Toprope
 Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top.
Up the original but instead of joining Bop trend slightly L via some very thin moves.
27 :     Unnamed   -   verified 15m 27sport
Rap-anchor
Toprope
 Thought to be a project for a long time, but runoured to have been sent at 29-ish in the 90s. Climbed by Reuben in 2003 and given 27. Probably solid at that grade.
Start between Satanic and Bloodline.
The first section is the hard bit, holds may be enhanced. Rebolted Dec 2012.
FA: Some German guy?
FFA: Reuben Bennett-Daly - 2003-00-00
28 :     Methotrexate   -   verified     IMG 25m 25sport
Rap-anchor
 Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route.
Start as for Bloodline.
Up Bloodline to it's 3rd bolt. Up R to high FH on Unnamed (back-clean it), back down R to 4th RB of Satanic, R past 3rd RB of Bop to 4th RB of Bewitched. Finish up Bewitched or Broomstick. It's main contribution is the nice moves R from Bop - but a far better option would be linking from the 3rd RB of Bop R into Bewitched.
29 :     Bloodline   -   verified     IMG 15m 22sport
Rap-anchor
Toprope
 If you thought the 3 retrobolts would make the original grade of 22 a bit inflated, think again! This is one very tough unit, even with bolts every 2 metres. You don't want to stuff up the first few clips either.
There's a chimney/crack on the L side of the main Omega face, just R of a pinnacle/boulder. Start beneath the faint groove 3m R of this.
A bouldery start leads into a bouldery lower section followed by a bouldery middle section. The top is easier!
FA: Andrew Thompson, Greg Child (with 1 bolt!) - 1978-03-01
30 :     Lola V   -   verified 15m 22sport
5 bolts
Rap-anchor
Toprope
 Previously the least repeated route on the wall. Retrobolted in 2012. Now best climbed via thin moves past 3FH to join last 2 bolts on Bloodline finishing at that routes anchors.
Start 1.5m L of Bloodline, 1.5m R of Black Magic.
FA: Mike Law, early 80s?
31 :     
Black Magic   -   verified
15m 15trad
Lower-off
 This grungy flared crack/chimney is quite incongruous amongst all the neighbouring sport routes!
It's the obvious R-curving crack on the left side of the main Omega face.
Grunge up the crack. Not as much gear as you'd like.
FA: Calvin Ho - 1968-00-00
32 :     Powder Hound   -   verified     IMGIMG 25m 21mixed
Lower-off
 Surprisingly good climbing for a traverse! A great way to sample territory which is otherwise reserved for much harder routes.
Start 1.5m L of Black Magic.
Up 4m to thin diagonal break, then R across Black Magic (high gear) and thin moves R to clip 3rd and 4th bolts on Bloodline. R beneath last rusty FH on the unknown 29, to gain a very nice R-wards leading crack. From here, stay about 5m below the top, joining Boogie at or above it's last bolt. Extend gear at the start.
FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter. Early 80s?
33 :     An Evil Brew   -   verified 10m 19mixed
Lower-off
 Cruxy.
Start as for Powder Hound.
From the thin diagonal/break, trend slightly L past a BR.
FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks - 1990-11-25
34 :     Wee Ripper   -   verified 10m 17sport
Lower-off
 Like most short routes, a little tricky for the grade.
Start 2m L of Powder Hound, off the top of the block.
2 FHs.
FA: Joy Fletcher. 1990s?
    Good Things Come in Small Packages 12m 18sport
3 bolts
 Somewhat usurped by LM but worthwhile. Adds 4m to Wee Ripper. Thin moves Diagonally past RB bring jugs on WR to hand. Finish up the original.
Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper
FFA: Mark Atkinson, Mark Rewi - 2012-00-00
    Length Matters 10m 18Unknown
3 bolts
 Direct past RB and 2FH. Best climbed independent all the way but most will probably drift into Wee Riper up high.
Start as for Good Things
FFA: Ian Boorman, Mark Rewi - 2012-00-00
35 :     Hawker   -   verified 15m 7trad
Walk-off
 Rarely done but looks ok.
Start 5m L of WR.
The R-leaning crack down L of WR.
FA: Bruno Zielke, Fred Langenhorst - 1968-03-02
36 :     War Front   -   verified 10m 18trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Looks dirty.
Start to the R of the chimney.
The wall R of the chimney.
FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, Peter Stebbins - 1991-01-19
37 :     Young Warriors   -   verified 10m 20trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Start below and a bit L of chimney.
Groove to cave, R to chimney and up it. Swing L out of chimney beneath loose blocks over roof/arete, then up face.
FA: Matt Brooks, Daniel Brooks, Peter Stebbins - 1991-01-19
38 :     Heat Seeker   -   verified 10m 21mixed
Walk-off
Toprope
 Start as for YW.
Up to cave as for YW, but continue direct up a groove past a BR.
FA: Matt Brooks, Chris Yeomans - 1991-03-16
39 :     Thundering Guns   -   verified 10m 24trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Start 2m L of HS.
Bouldery wall L of HS, 2BRs.
FA: Matt Brooks - 1991-00-00

Recent Ascents

Will_P Witchonsight2012-12-02
mattbrooks Boogie 'til You Pukeonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Boogie Directfree2011-01-19
mattbrooks Boogie into Brooms...onsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Hollow Screamsfree2011-01-19
mattbrooks Voodoo Peopleonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Broomstickonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Bewitchedonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Bop 'til You Droponsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Satanic Versesfree2011-01-19
mattbrooks Satanic Verses Dir...free2011-01-19
mattbrooks Unnamedfree2011-01-19
mattbrooks Bloodlineonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Methotrexateonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Thundering Gunsonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Satan Said Dancefree2011-01-19
pharmamatt Wee Rippertricky for the grade especially the first bitonsight172010-01-30
Scotty A Bloodlinefree2009-01-17
phil_nev Wishful Thinkingonsight2008-07-08
phil_nev Witchonsight2008-07-08
phil_nev Warlockonsight2008-07-08

Copyright, ACA, 2012