Print  

The routes database is now read-only. Route information is gradually being migrated to theCrag and this site will eventually be decommissioned.

The ACAQ web site contains information about ongoing policy and access work relating to climbing in Queensland.

For more information, contact Damien Ayers, damien at omad dot net.

The Australian Route Register

Millennium Caves


Crag:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 07. The Victoria Range
      - 4. High Tops (incl The Fortress, Crystal Palace & Millennium Caves)
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:A great find - the then bumblies Julian and Simon managed to bolt and, eventually, send some classic steep sport routes.

Be aware that most routes at this crag rely on one bolt keeping you off the deck, even when you're well up the pitch. If a bolt breaks or pulls, or a biner unclips, you're toast. Bad belaying pretty much guarantees groundfall potential as well - this has already resulted in a number of big plummets, near groundfalls, and actual groundfalls even from quite high on routes (thankfully with surprisingly minimal injuries, so far).

The climbs are great - but it's your own responsibility to decide whether or not to climb them.

Mobile coverage is poor to non-existent from the car-park to and at the caves. However there is coverage from the top terrace at Pygmy Terraces near the car-park so there may also be coverage if you scramble to the top of Millenium.

Location:Note the road from Buandik campground is closed in the cold wet months (from about Jun/Jul) to protect the road itself, and is scheduled to open at October 31 each year. The Parks Vic website has a link to the Grampians Road Report, which gives current road conditions and road closures. If the gate is closed keen climbers can still get there simply by walking up the road from Buandik (about 1 hr total). If the gate is open, drive up Goat Track from Buandik for about 1.5km. This crag pretty much completely occupies the top of the hill to the right (south) as Goat Track reaches it's high point. 2WD cars can be coaxed up the hill...but a bit of clearance and/or 4WD is certainly desirable to navigate the large water bars and steep loose rocky sections (softroaders will be fine). When the road reaches a saddle at the top of the hill and starts to drop for the first time, there is a parking bay on the left (north) side of the road. The walk-in starts directly opposite, you can't really see the crag so just follow the well-formed track. The view of the crag in the first topo below is from the intersection of Goat Track and Victoria Range Road - if you end up here you've gone too far, go back towards Buandik until you reach the saddle.

Goat Track is equally passable to/from the east (i.e. for suitable cars), and joins up with Syphon Rd at the eastern foot of the range. This way is probably a bit quicker if you're driving to/from Halls Gap but involves a bit more rough driving. Great views though.

The walking track is well trod and easy to follow, and initially heads away from the road but then starts veering left and contours the hillside, until you reach the Five Spice cave after about 10 minutes.

Rock:   Walk:   5-15 mins
Wet Weather:Dry
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:willmonks


Issues

Routes

1a :     
Oxford Comma
10m 20sport
3 bolts
Lower-off
 Start at the cute little orange face tucked away on a boulder just right of the walking track, approx 40m before you hit the Five Spice cave.
This gets a serious rating because it only has a single biner lower off. Make up your own mind whether to trust it.
FA: Kent Paterson, american Elliot, early March 2009 - 2009-03-00
1 :     Five Spice   -   verified     IMG 10m 26sport
Lower-off
 Looks like a fun bit of steep thugging.
This is the route on its own in the cave you get to before the main area.
FA: Stuart Wyithe
1b :     Unknown Project 12m - sport
Rap-anchor
 A red fixed hanger and a glue-reinforced flake can be found on this line.
Start 10m L of Five Spice
FA: Equipped by Sharik Walker?
2 :     
Living With Sister   -   verified     IMG
10m 24sport
5 bolts
Back-clean
 Careful on the runout finish.
Start in the left of the main cave, a few metres left of Nomads.
5 bolts to finish in the middle of nowhere. Lower off the last or back clean it. The finish is fairly juggy but you really wouldn't want to blow the last clip.
FA: Simon Atkins
3 :     
Nomads Saints & Indians   -   verified     IMGIMG
18m 29sport
7 bolts
Rap-anchor
 Roof climbers rave about this one. Steep jugging to a few hard moves at the end. Unfortunately once again the bolt spacing warrants caution.
Start down the very back of the left end of the main cave.
7 bolts to rap anchor. There's almost groundfall potential at the 5th and 6th bolts, and also beware the block behind you at the last bolt.
FA: Julian Saunders
4 :     
Nomads to 5th bolt   -   verified     IMGIMG
14m 24sport
5 bolts
Back-clean
 The best "moderate" route here.
Excellent climbing up Nomads to its 5th bolt. The runout from the 4th bolt to the 5th thwarts many would-be redpoints.
FA: Julian Saunders
5 :     
Red Vinyl   -   verified     IMG
20m 30sport
Back-clean
 Quite close to Nomads but it still looks great. The usual warning applies about having only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.
Start as for Nomads.
Break R from Nomads after the 1st bolt, then follow the line of holds 1.5m R of Nomads. It's a shame it finishes in the middle of nowhere at the last bolt a few metres before the lip. There's no anchor - either trust the ring or back-clean it.
FA: Simon Atkins
6 :     
Fire in da Belly   -   verified     IMGIMG
25m 32sport
Rap-anchor
 A whole new route without a single extra bolt!
Start as for Red Vinyl.
Extends Red Vinyl to the lip. No more bolts, although it does now have it's own anchor. Make sure you clip the last bolt on Red Vinyl then drop back down right, up, then back left to the crux. You need an alert belayer once you're out near the lip.
FA: Nathan Hoette
7 :     
Duel Fuel     IMG
25m 31sport
Rap-anchor
 Dual Fuel? Jule Fuel? Who knows how it's meant to be spelt. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.
Start as for Nomads.
Start as for Red Vinyl then link into Breathing Gasoline after about 9m. This eliminates the rest on Breathing Gasoline, making this route rather more sustained! For the record, on 26/4/09, not really knowing what went where, Mike Patz sent a similar link-up at the same sort of grade, this time starting up the first few bolts of Nomads then finishing up Breathing Gasoline.
FA: Nathan Hoette
8 :     
Breathing Gasoline     IMGIMGIMG
28m 30sport
 A very impressive line blasting out the biggest part of this massive overhang, on beautiful red stone. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.
Start as for Nomads.
Start as for Nomads but stay on the hanging arete/nose, then follow the line of holds rightwards and outwards forever.
FA: Julian Saunders
8>9 :     Sniffing Petrol     IMG 15m 25sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Pumpy fun for the kids who aren't up to Breathing Gasoline. A good find as this cave is under-endowed in the 25-27 bracket.
Start as for Breathing Gasoline.
Up Breathing Gasoline for 5 bolts then traverse R to the anchors of Tunnel to Caracas. To ensure all possible permutations and combinations are covered, no doubt the 'megaclassic' extension into Tunnel Vision will follow soon.
FA: Steve Chapman - 2010-06-13
9 :     Tunnel to Caracas   -   verified     IMGIMG 15m 28sport
5 bolts
Rap-anchor
 Climbs the inside of the tunnel feature just R of Nomads. It looks a bit obscure but is very good.
Start as for Nomads.
Up Nomads to its 1st bolt then a perplexing move right into the tunnel to the undercling rail. Tough clip of 3rd bolt (long draw helps), then tough steep moves into roof finish.
FA: Simon Atkins
9a :     
Tunnel Vision     IMGIMG
25m 29sport
8 bolts
Rap-anchor
 A much funner way to sample the good bits of Fat and Sassy, without the stuffing around.
Start as for Tunnel to Caracas.
Climb all of Tunnel to Caracas then continue up the seam above to join into Fat and Sassy just before it takes the left fork in the seam. Finish up the runout top section of Fat and Sassy to the top of the cave.
FA: Kent Paterson, early March 2009 - 2009-03-00
10 :     
Fat and Sassy     IMG
15m 27sport
3 bolts
Rap-anchor
 One of three truly gobsmacking lines out to the very top of this humungous cave, but it takes some stuffing around to get started.
Starts from the ledge above Bwana (you can avoid actually climbing Bwana by simply stick clipping it's anchor!).
At first it takes the major cliff-splitting seam, then the left fork, passing the hueco with guano, and finishing up the grey streak above the top roof. Has 3 bolts, spacey runouts, and a new anchor.
FA: Julian Saunders
11 :     Bwana   -   verified     IMG 9m 28sport
2 bolts
Lower-off
 Boulderers will love this.
Start about 8m R of Nomads.
Jumpy moves up and R to the steep hanging prow, the gap above the 2nd bolt will give you more than enough of an airy feeling for such a short route.
FA: Julian Saunders
12 :     What's an Aging Gigolo to Do   -   verified     IMG 25m 32sport
Rap-anchor
 The other competitor for the most impressive line here, although it doesn't get as many stars. Yet to receive a 2nd ascent.
Start near the lonely boulder about 15m R of Bwana.
Up from the left to gain the faint arete then move R and up the steep grey face to the top.
FA: Garth Miller
13 :     Eat More Lard   -   verified     IMG 23m 31sport
Rap-anchor
 Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging Gigolo.
Start as for The Floating Cloud
Start up Floating Cloud then move left into Aging Gigolo.
FA: Simon Atkins
14 :     The Floating Cloud   -   verified     IMG 15m 23sport
5 bolts
Rap-anchor
 Great rock and some nice moves, but it's a shame about the rest ledges ruining the middle section.
Start at the R end of the wall at a well chalked low hanging prow.
Bouldery start, then purists should stay L on the prow and avoid the big rests. Nice moves to finish.
FA: Simon Atkins
15 :     Project 9m - sport
 The rounded arete just R of Floating Cloud
16 :     Verdensrom   -   verified     IMG 15m 23sport
Lower-off
 This beautifully coloured wall is unfortunately quite cruxy...but people still seem to like it.
Start 5m R of Floating Cloud.
Trend L then hard moves back up R to the arete. Follow the underside of arete to rap anchor.
FA: some Czech dude
17 :     Reckless Mind 15m 22sport
3 bolts
Rap-anchor
 Start about 50m L of where you scramble up from the Main Cave.
Now retroed with 3 bolts and a rap anchor. It's best not to lower off the anchor because it's over the top and will probably trash your rope. Abseil or back jump.
FA: Julian Saunders (solo) 1990s
17a :     Unknown 7m 24sport
3 bolts
Rap-anchor
 Start 5m R of Reckless Mind.
Short but action-packed crimpiness.
18 :     
Shattering Reflections on Narcissism   -   verified     IMGIMG
25m 29mixed
Back-clean
 Start on the boulder on the R edge of the huge cave, on the R side of the 2nd tier.
Designed to be climbed as a quite scary sport route, but rumour has it there is the odd trad piece to sanitise it a little. No anchor...clean it how you wish! There is a piker's variant which goes at 27 by traversing a little higher than shown when you're about 15m into the traverse. Line 18a in the topo shows a grade 25 trad variant done by Matt Adams.
FA: Julian Saunders - 1997-00-00
19 :     
Kidney Stoned   -   verified     IMG
18m 20sport
Rap-anchor
 Maybe a bit contrived but still damn good fun. You'd be forgiven for thinking the route was named after the striking unusual kidney shaped plate of rock it follows. But by some bizarre and unfortunate coincidence, Bob happened to pass some actual kidney stones while sending it! Stretched urethra anyone? Ouccchhh!
Start R of the cave.
Up to the lip then traverse L along the lip. Impressively pumpy for the grade! At one point you might take a nasty pendulum if you come off - this has resulted in at least one dislocated kneecap.
FA: Bob Novellino - 1995-00-00
20 :     
Labyrinths   -   verified     IMGIMG
15m 26sport
Rap-anchor
 The prime line through this gorgeous red-roofed cave. Possibly even 3 stars. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.
Start in the base of the cave.
Straight out the red roof then hard moves to the left before the lip.
FA: Simon Atkins - 1995-00-00
21 :     
Velocity of Time   -   verified     IMGIMG
15m 26sport
Rap-anchor
 Another great looking roof. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.
Start a few metres L of Labyrinths.
Out the roof trending R, crossing Labyrinths a few metres before the lip.
FA: Simon Atkins - 1995-00-00
    Blabber Mouth 12m 19trad
 take the obvious central line to where it steepens, with a hard move near the top.
FA: Geoff Butcher - 1993-12-28
    To The Point 14m 21trad
 Start as for Blabber Mouth but move across the opening of the cave. Pull through overlap to finish.
FA: Geoff Butcher - 1993-12-28
    Chapped Lips 14m 19trad
 Nice. Follow the same line as Blabber Mouth until it steepens then move diagonally left to finish.
FA: Geoff Butcher - 1993-12-28
    Time In Memorial 9m 12trad
 Starts in the middle of the wall off a flake. Straight up then veer left.
FA: Chris Lawrence, Geoff Butcher - 1991-11-00
    Time Out 10m 14trad
 Up the face 1 metre left of Time In Memorial to the horizonatl traverse left to the top.
FA: Geoff Butcher - 1993-12-28

Recent Ascents

mattbrooks Five Spiceonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Living With Sisteronsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Nomads Saints &...free2011-01-19
mattbrooks Nomads to 5th boltonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Tunnel to Caracasonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Bwanaflash2011-01-19
mattbrooks The Floating Cloudonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Fat and Sassyfree2011-01-19
mattbrooks Verdensromonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Kidney Stonedonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Labyrinthsonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Velocity of Timeonsight2011-01-19
glenn_9 Living With Sisteraid2010-05-03
glenn_9 The Floating Cloudfree2010-05-03
manacubus Tunnel to Caracaspink-point2009-10-01
manacubus The Floating Cloudonsight2009-10-01
manacubus Verdensromonsight2009-10-01
walpolem The Floating Cloudonsight232008-11-14
phil_nev Living With Sisterred-point2008-07-27
phil_nev Nomads to 5th boltred-point2008-07-27
phil_nev Tunnel to CaracasFeckn hard!!!!red-point2008-07-27
phil_nev The Floating Cloudflash2008-07-27
phil_nev Verdensromflash2008-07-27
phil_nev Kidney Stonedonsight2008-07-27
phil_nev Labyrinthsred-point2008-07-27

Copyright, ACA, 2012