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The Australian Route Register


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Centurion Walls Main Cliff


Crag:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 02. Mt Difficult Range
      - Centurion Walls
This area is locked for editing by the parent crag. Route additions are not allowed by the parent crag.
Description:One of the best winter sport crags in the Grampians with sun all day. Hot, dry and close to Melbourne for day trips! This steep, and sometimes sandy wall stretches for several hundred metres with nice flat belay stances and fine views over the plains. It was developed in the late 90s and early 00s and some routes suffer from the 'not enough bolts' and 'stupid one piece of trad mixed route' concept. The cliff alternates between solid orange rock and shoddy sandy rubbish. Rock quality is generally poorer than much of the Grampians (think Blue Mountains), so take extra care, especially after rainfall when rock strength is halved. The access track arrives below the route Damage Done.
Rock:   Walk:   15-30 mins
Wet Weather:Damp
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:nmonteith


Issues

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Routes

1 :     Winged Corpse   -   verified     IMGIMG 15m 26sport
6 bolts
Lower-off
 The home of the 'regular' pocket and an excellent hard climb. Wild overhung steepness through cave on left end of main crag with a dubious enhanced start. Bouldery from start to finish with some very funky moves down low.
FA: Neil Monteith & Cameron Fairbairn - 2000-04-22
2 :     Ton Steine Scherben   -   verified     IMG 25m 24sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Novel undercling roof lip traverse with some less than perfect rock (name translates into something like 'some loose rock'). Climbs the lip of the cave right of Winged Corpse. Scramble up ramp to chossy ledge, clip FH then monkey out left and up headwall. Crux is getting from the roof into the small corner via shoulder busting mantle pull. 5 FH’s and some optional medium wires for juggy finish. Rap off chain.
FA: Thomas Wimmer (Germany) & Neil Monteith - 1999-02-00
3 :     Sandpit   -   verified     IMG 18m 20sport
7 bolts
Lower-off
Toprope
 The obvious right facing hollow flake crack and pumpy wall right of Winged Corpse. Originally led with only a single bolt and dodgy trad - now it's a retrobolted popular sport warm-up featuring six bolts (of differing styles). Boulder start directly up scoops past FH to chossy ledge, then up flake and wall above.
FA: Neil Monteith & Thomas Wimmer - 1999-02-00
4 :     Centrifugal Force   -   verified     IMGIMG 18m 24sport
4 bolts
Lower-off
Toprope
 This beautiful black streaked wall is rarely dry after rain! Rather runout for a sport route and could do with a few more bolts, or a handfull of trad wires. Start as for Left Hand Black to first bolt then bouldery traverse left to jugs. Continue up wall and small roof past a further three bolts. Last ring bolt was placed after first ascent when second ascent took monster whipper. Rap from chains above LHB.
FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert - 1998-11-21
5 :     Left Hand Black   -   verified     IMG 18m 23sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
Toprope
 The first route bolted at Centurion Walls by the young team of Nick & Neil. A popular sustained sport route with a committing crux. Named after the black pattern on the rock. The route climbs the steep left edge of a cave, continues directly up orange face and then over a roof to finish on excellent pockets.
FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Monteith - 1998-11-07
6 :     Afterworld   -   verified     IMG 20m 23mixed
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Right hand black? Sustained steep climbing through a big roof. Starts as for Left Hand Black until third bolt, then traverse right (FH) to under large roof, over this (FH) and up trad protected corner to finish.
FA: Neil Monteith & Aaron Jones - 2000-03-00
7 :     Damage Done   -   verified     IMG 30m 24mixed
Walk-off
 Unrepeated in 10 years? It is a shame this excellent steep wall and roof has such a crappy uninspiring start. Ramble up Shades of Black to the bird shit stained ledge at about 15m height. Hand traverse left here and head up pocketed wall past a FH to under big roof. Monkey across this past another FH to finish. Bring medium wires, cams and slings.
FA: Neil Monteith & Tom Briggs (UK) - 1998-12-05
8 :     
Shades of Black   -   verified
25m 16trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 A clearer shade of choss? The first route done on the cliff. Steep bold climbing on outrageous holds and quite a bit of bird shit. Starts at very small section of “brain” like rock at right hand end of small white cave about 30m right of Left Hand Black. Straight up to left hand side of buttress. Up flake on left then up and right to top of buttress. Straight up wall above.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Watling, Allan Hope & Mike Mulcairn - 1995-11-04
9 :     
Liberator
25m 19trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 A nice feature spoilt by a scary start and less than great rock. Take the steep right hand arete of the small buttress just right of Shades of Black. Scramble in to start across choss from the right. Up arete steeply to the ledge and then up face above on jugs. To avoid rope drag you can split this into two short pitches.
FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie - 1995-11-06
10 :     
Lexicon
25m 17trad
Lower-off
Toprope
 Looks appalling. Even ten bolts wouldn't make this safe. Up the centre of the black streak 10m left of Killer Wolf through two overhangs and finishing up right of the small bush at two thirds height.
FA: Campbell Mercer, Allan Hope & Mike Mulcairn - 1999-11-04
11 :     Killer Wolf   -   verified     IMGIMG 15m 22mixed
3 bolts
Lower-off
 The scene of several tantrums by strong climbers, this one is famous for a forearm pump from hell on the traverse. One of the better easier routes at the crag although it seeps heavily after rain and the finish can be sandy. The scoop and roof flake about 10m right of Lexicon. Into small cave (FH), roof flake (medium cams) to small stance and FH. Head left on jugs past fixed chain on RB then straight up to double rings. The direct finish straight up from second FH is a good looking open project.

FA: Nick McKinnon, Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert - 2000-05-04
12 :     Deviled Haircut   -   verified     IMGIMG 25m 25sport
9 bolts
Lower-off
 Absorbing and powerful sport climbing up nice orange rock, and one of the best routes at Centurion. Climb Compressor Route to fifth RB. Step left under block (RB) and fire up excellent wall above (three RBs) with some nice big
pockets to DRB loweroff. You will need to second or back clean the lower-half.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2003-09-07
13 :     Compressor Route   -   verified     IMGIMG 23m 27sport
9 bolts
Lower-off
 The hardest route at Centurion, and an epic first ascent by a persistent Nick over several months. This route was bolted in an electrical storm using a large industrial generator which had to be dragged into the crag.
A long route with a sting in the tail. Climb past BR and broken rock into scoop, then very bouldery move left across cave. At sixth ring bolt go right and direct up face past limestone like large pocket and micro edges through bulge. 9 RB’s and chain lower off.

FA: Nick McKinnon - 2002-07-00
14 :     Anti-Christ Superstar   -   verified     IMG 25m 25mixed
8 bolts
Lower-off
 Wandery climbing on great rock. As for Compressor Route to sixth bolt, then shuffle right along horizontal for a few moves (2 rings) to no hands rest in slot. Straight up a few moves to twin pocket jugs then hard right (ignore high ring) to break and good cam slot. Up again on pockets to jugs and pumpy conclusion past last ring to double ring lower off. Extend runners to avoid rope drag. Should be rebolted and straightened out.
FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon - 2001-08-02
15 :     Pining For The Fiords   -   verified     IMGIMG 20m 22sport
6 bolts
Lower-off
 The parrot in the horizontal is most certainly dead – or perhaps it’s just resting? Steep cave climbing across a major feature on sometimes bizarre conglomerate rock. As of Sep 2011 there appeared to be a bees nest on this route.
Starts 5m right of The Compressor Route.
Stickclip first UB, then boulder up onto ledge. Balance and stretch rightwards using shallow mono to gain steep horizontal break. Monkey along this (past the sleeping Norwegian Blue) to novelty cave rest. Blast up headwall above which eases to jugs.
FA: Neil Monteith, Michael Lawrence, Adam Demmert & Catherine de Vaus - 2006-06-18
16 :     
Ghengis Khan   -   verified
35m 19trad
Walk-off
 Interesting wall climbing with much suspect rock. Starts about 10m right of Pining for the Fiords at the left most black streak that reaches the ground (flows out of a small wind blown scoop immediately left of a large pile of boulders). Up 4m to the small bush on right. Traverse left for 4m along the break then straight up the wall above to finish just left of the dead tree at the top of the cliff.
FA: Campbell Mercer & Alan Hope - 1995-11-04
17 :     Kublai Khan   -   verified     IMG 30m 21trad
Walk-off
 Old guard route with powerful climbing through steep territory. Start about 10m left of Psychotic Episode. Climb orange and black striped rock to first overhang. Traverse 3m L then up steeply until a traverse line leads back R between more overhangs. Committing moves over the next overhang lead to a dark red patch of rock and a hanging corner/weakness. Up this and finish out right of the summit roof.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth - 1996-11-03
18 :     Stone Temptress   -   verified     IMGIMG 20m 22trad
Lower-off
 An unlikely trad route with a super pumper traverse on great rock. Start up Kubla Khan for four metres then begin the never ending overhung hand-traverse right on
superb stone to end at Psychotic Episode’s lower-off ring bolts. Bring every cam you own up to size 4, and lots of slings.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2000-11-05
19 :     Millars Fails (open project)   -   verified 20m - mixed
Walk-off
 Up Psychotic Episode to second bolt. Traverse left along
horizontal, bust through roof (crux - 28?) and onwards up leftt to top. Needs more bolts at finish.
FA: Equipped Neil Monteith 2004
20 :     Psychotic Episode   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 15m 26mixed
4 bolts
Lower-off
 After an eventful chemical induced weekend Nick eventually married his psychiatric nurse (true story). The best line of the cliff. Flakes leading up overhung orange
buttress with two powerful moves. Four rings to double ring lower-off. Bring some
medium cams to reduce the runouts up high.
FA: Nick McKinnon - 2000-07-29
21 :     Push It Upstairs   -   verified 15m 23mixed
Rap-anchor
Toprope
 Sandbag one move wonder. Starts the same as Progressive Happy House. Move up on big horizontals for 7m . Traverse left for 3m and up to another good slot. Dyno crux then up wall to belay tree. Rap off tree to descend.
FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Monteith - 1999-05-01
22 :     Progressive Happy House   -   verified     IMG 15m 18trad
Rap-anchor
Toprope
 Named after the Malvern Road, Prahran share house that lasted 10 years. The best of the easy trad routes of the cliff. Head diagonally
right on big horizontal breaks to vertical reachy transition. Up easily to top and tree belay. Bring lots of cams. Rap off tree above Push It Upstairs.
FA: Neil Monteith, Jono Schmidt & Nick McKinnon - 2000-06-25

Recent Ascents

dreamingof8a Deviled Haircutfree2008-09-20
dreamingof8a Sandpitnice warm upflash2008-09-13
dreamingof8a Pining For The Fio...free2008-09-13

Copyright, ACA, 2012