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The Australian Route Register

Band of Gypsies


Crag:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 07. The Victoria Range
      - 2. Red Rock Road (incl. Muline, Mt Fox, Red Rocks, Far Pavilion, The Tower)
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:A pleasant group of sunny walls, pinnacles and terraces lining the gully immediately north of Red Rock Pinnacles. Great in cool, sunny weather, not so if it's warm.
Location:To climb at the lower end of Band of Gypsies, wander across to the end of the vehicle track, cross the creek, walk up to the cliff line and follow it uphill to the first climbs. For the upper section, follow a pad across to the Cave Boulder, which is directly in front of Dutch Courage. Descent For the lower walls walk off the west or the east ends via the chasm gully. There are plenty of abseil options. Beyond the chasm the best option is to abseil, either from the chains and slings indicated or from one of many bollards. (BYO slings). The best scramble descent is via narrow rib at the top (east) end of the main crags. This rib is in a gully just i from the north-east toe of the buttress.
Rock:   Walk:   5-15 mins
Wet Weather:Soaked
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:nmonteith


Issues

Routes

    Over The Top 15m 13trad
Walk-off
 Scramble into belay niche behind pinnacle.
Bridge trench to steep finish.
FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher - 2005-04-26
    Eloquence Of Speech 20m 21mixed
 Climb wall behind small pinnacle to horizontal break. Climb small edges past FH to easier ground, finishing steeply at juggy break.
FA: Steve Holloway, Nic Kiraly - 2005-10-16
    Queen Of Der     IMG 26m 21mixed
2 bolts
 A tasty excursion.
Start as for Eloquence Of Speech.
As for Eloquence of Speech to top of pinnacle. Up to BR, then FH and crux bulge. At horizontal traverse left to arête. Awkward cracks on arête to top.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton - 2006-02-18
    Bulldozer In The Background 20m 10trad
 Start at chimney left of buttress left of Queen of Der.
Crack in left wall of chimney until crack ends. Chimney, or face climb arête, then exit onto left wall, finishing steeply under branch of gum tree.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton - 2005-04-26
    Heavy Milk, Light Beer 17m 13trad
 Easy crack left of Bulldozer In The Background.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton - 2005-04-26
    The Upside Of Anger     IMG 18m 17mixed
1 bolts
 Start as for Heavy Milk, Light Beer
Move onto bollard, arrange gear and up to FH. Straight up diagonal seams.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton - 2005-05-23
    Grand Oral Disseminator     IMGIMG 18m 27mixed
1 bolts
 Watch out for skating cams and feet on the slick rock.
Stunning right-leading diagonal crack in smooth orange rock past a double knee-bar "stance" and bolt.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, Adam Demmert - 2005-10-16
    Private Parts     IMG 26m 21trad
 Major crack system around left of Grand Oral Disseminator, behind boulder.
Bridge and jam to pedestal, continue up corner-crack to final steep headwall. Exit right and up.
FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher - 2005-08-28
    Squeezed Out 13m 21mixed
2 bolts
 Off-width corner/crack 5m L of Private Parts. Take several #5 cams
Laybackand bridge at grade 25 (as led on FA) or grade 21 thrutch with fist stacks.
FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, James Pfrunder, Malcolm Matheson - 2005-10-16
    Arrested     IMG 12m 24trad
Lower-off
 Sustained laybacks on perfect finger locks and edges. Take medium wires and cams.
Steep right-facing corner left of Squeezed Out. Med wires and cams.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2005-10-02
    Nice Knobs 40m 12trad
 Climb the right side of the recessed ramp and wall up left of the chasm.
FA: Sharyn George, Michael Hampton - 2005-10-02
    Bohemian Ridge 45m 16mixed
 Mixed climbing with a short crux. The gully L of Nice Knobs is blocked by a black slab.
Scramble into cave left of this (?gully or slab) and go up past chock-stone to ledge. Climb left side of slab/face to notch behind pinnacle. Continue up to ledge under steep arête (possible belay). Up this (FH) and continue easily to top.
FA: Michael Hampton, Sharyn George - 2005-10-02
    Over Committed     IMG 20m 20mixed
2 bolts
Rap-anchor
 Grit-style arete first climbed ground-up and retro-bolted to make it sane.
From boulder blocking gully, reach across and clip BR, then pivot around to left side and awkwardly up past BR to easier ground. Continue up arête with better holds and gear and belay at chain above Band of Thieves.
FA: Neil Monteith, Michael Hampton - 2005-10-02
    Band Of Thieves     IMG 23m 19trad
Rap-anchor
 Might have been done earlier as there was a little white square already in-situ.
Excellent jam-crack left of Over Committed leads to chains.
FA: FRA Tim Marsh - 2003-00-00
    Gypsy Swing     IMG 18m 17trad
Rap-anchor
 Unsercut arete left of Band Of Thieves swinging in from the left on a diagonal.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton - 2005-05-24
    Steal My Fingers 18m 20trad
Rap-anchor
 Start as for Gypsy Swing.
Step up and left onto wall following diagonal (small wires) to easier finish.
FA: Nic Kiraly, Steve Holloway - 2005-10-00
    Amber, Long Life, Honey in the Heart, No Evil, Thirteen Thankyous 15m 17trad
Rap-anchor
 Left arete of wall left of Gypsy Swing
Bouldery start on pockets onto scooped slab. Up arête, staying out of manky corner. Step right onto face and up to anchor.
FA: Steve Holloway, Nick Kiraly - 2005-10-15
    Flashing Eyes 36m 19trad
 Blocky Line up left of Gypsy Swing with a fiery second pitch.
FA: Micahel Hampton, Sharyn George (alt) - 2005-11-01
P1(18m, 18)Climb the blocky line. Step left onto arête and go up to belay at base of headwall.
P2(18m, 19)Start up middle of steep wall, then move back right at top of orange streak to finish at notch a few metres left of right arête.
    Transylvanian Trad     IMG 20m 20trad
 Start at wall left of orange undercut.
Go up and right to diagonal crack and follow this and cracks to easy wall. Don’t rap from bollard or you’ll end up in the trees: continue to top
FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher - 2005-04-27
    Blogger 20m 15trad
 Start as for Transylvanian Trad.
Climb corners to the top, with a rest on the big flake forming first corner.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton - 2005-04-27
    Dutch Courage 18m 20trad
Rap-anchor
 Steep, right-facing corner left of Blogger.
Layback the initial corner crack, wriggle up chimney with difficulty, then right around the arête, finishing up the right-hand chimney. Scramble to rap-slings above Crazy Like A Fox
FA: Mark Gould, Boudewijn Docter - 2005-10-16
    Crazy Like A Fox     IMG 25m 20mixed
Rap-anchor
 Reachy moves up unlikely, pocketed face. Short people might want to add a grade or so.
Start at right-leading ramp.
Follow ramp then step right (FH) and back left to follow pockets. Step right past 2nd FH to gain left-leading diagonal crack. Take this and cracks to top.
FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher - 2005-05-24
    Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (BSE)     IMG 25m 20mixed
Rap-anchor
 Interesting alternate finish to Mad Cow.
Follow Mad Cow to 2nd FH then head up slightly right on jugs to FH. Balance up slab to thin diagonal seam leading right into Crazy Like a Fox
FA: Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman, Ross Timms - 2006-04-14
    Mad Cow     IMG 25m 20mixed
Rap-anchor
 Pretty exciting stuff.
Start as for Crazy Like A Fox
Up ramp and then climb curving, rounded overlap to groove exit (3 FHs). Up groove and cracks to top.
FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher - 2005-08-27
    In A Dark Wood Wandering 18m 12trad
 Go diagonally right up the juggy grassland to slightly awkward exit up right-leading crack.
FA: Michael Hampton, Sharyn George - 2005-10-31
    A Fortune Teller 25m 13trad
Rap-anchor
 Start as for In A Dark Wood Wandering.
Diagonally right up the grassland as forIn A Dark Wood Wandering to the right-R leading crack. Step across to west-facing headwall of undercut pinnacle and horizontal breaks. Step left and up. Take slings for abseil.
FA: Sharyn George, Michael Hampton - 2005-10-31
    Dead Horses 27m 16mixed
1 bolts
 From chock-stone climb directly up to FH. Pull onto ramp and climb juggy orange headwall to top.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton - 2005-08-27
    Read Rover 25m 18trad
Rap-anchor
 Enjoyable face with good gear.
Continue scrambling up gully to narrow detached block. Bridge between this and right wall to left end of small cave. Arrange pro and climb directly up wall. Rap from slings on bollard.
FA: Michael Hampton, Sharyn George - 2005-10-31
    Rag And Bone 40m 11trad
Rap-anchor
 Steep bucket-pulling with some brittle chicken-heads.
Start at toe of semi-detached pinnacle.
Up corner and arete.
FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher - 2005-05-24
    Bury Me Standing 18m 21mixed
Rap-anchor
 Start at far end of small block in front of orange wall of the semi-detached pinnacle.
Stick clip first FH, bridge to first holds, stepping right into base of right-leading seam. Up over bulges (2 FHs) to stance at base of rotten crack. Arrange gear, step left and up jugs to top.
FA: Steve Holloway, Nick Kiraly - 2005-10-15
    Gypsy, Sun And Rainbow 18m 22mixed
2 bolts
Rap-anchor
 Start as for Bury Me Standing
Stick clip first FH, and up it, as for Bury Me Standing. Up and left to horizontal seam and wire placement. Up past FH to vertical crack and easy ground.
FA: Nick Kiraly, Steve Holloway - 2005-10-15
    Reading Palms 18m 14trad
Rap-anchor
 Grassy corner on left end of semi-detached pinnacle.
Up small ramp to base of corner. Avoid grass by bridging. Small gear in left wall.
FA: Steve Holloway, Peter Mills - 2005-10-01
    Steptoe And Scum 18m 20trad
Rap-anchor
 On the uphill side of semi-detached pinnacle is a corner. Start at nose left of this corner.
Take diagonal seams on nose to left side of bulge in orange headwall.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton - 2005-05-24
    Johnny Depp 23m 20trad
 Start on the left between some pines.
Go up seams then traverse delicately right to below orange bulges (wires). Rock onto bulge and step right to second bulge and cams. Crank up and over right to left-leading exit crack.
FA: Michael Hampton, Sharyn George - 2005-10-01
    Errol Flynn     IMG 20m 18mixed
1 bolts
 Diagonal cracks in black streak right of Johnny Depp to bolt. Step left and follow left-hand line through bulges. Go right a bit and straight up.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, Sharyn George - 2005-12-28


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