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The Australian Route Register

Deliverance (Canoelands)


Crag:NSW
  - 03 Hunter (inc Central Coast and Newcastle)
    - Central Coast West Side
      - Southern Hawkesbury River
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:Hawkesbury sandstone at it's best. Steep, water polished and long. Shame about the current problematic access through private property (permission required) - or a rather epic 7.5km Walk /Mountain Bike) along steep and rough fire roads from above. Cliff faces north-east, and in summer gets into total shade by 2pm. The big plus is that the crag is very steep and has major corners which block much of the sun, so you can climb here all day in summer. The crag is famous for the tilted slopers which turn an easy looking route into total desperation!
Location:Canoelands Road and Trail. Loacate Canoelands Road on your GPS, follow this until you find the entrance to the National Park and the Canoelands Trail. Good parking here for several cars. Follow this for about 7.5km (seems much longer), until you find a burnt out tree with a cairn at its base. Follow marked track here to a sign "Lower Cliff Walk", and follow the trail left (looking out at the river) for a few minutes and the cliff will appear.

Use the Google Map refernce to help you find the crag if you lost -33.477755430929896, 151.132349967
Rock:   Walk:   1-2 hours
Wet Weather:Dry
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:nmonteith


Issues

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Routes

1 :     You Don't Beat The River   -   verified     IMG 17m 22sport
6 bolts
Lower-off
Toprope
 Interesting Taipan-bridge start to gain break. Up onto slab which is continually engaging all the way to the clip+lower anchors.
FFA: Lee Cujes & Neil Monteith - 2015-10-08
2 :     Who's a Pickin' That Banjer?   -   verified 18m 22sport
6 bolts
Lower-off
 Start as for YDBTR to break, then move R clipping a FH to big flake feature. Climb the slab above, always tending R past several UB's, finishing through bulge (sure, use the jugs on the right) to chain anchor.
FFA: Lee Cujes & Neil Monteith - 2008-10-16
3 :     Buck Yeager   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 15m 25sport
6 bolts
Lower-off
 Start at the single bolt belay on large ledge. Up with juggy flakes past FH's to sit-down rest. Traverse L on swirly stone before blasting up with authority. Traverse back R under rearing headwall. Mind blowing finale to uber finishing horn jug. Lower-off.
FFA: Lee Cujes & Neil Monteith - 2008-10-16
4 :     Project - Chubby Boy   -   verified 17m -
8 bolts
Lower-off
 Steep cave climbing 3m right of Buck Yeager. Impressive dyno half way up and desperate mantle to finish. Stay off until complete.
5 :     Drop Them Pants   -   verified 15m 24sport
6 bolts
Lower-off
 Deep reachy pockets to start, then desperate black slab. Finish with exciting haul past horizontal break to single monster u-bolt anchor half way up the cliff.
Starts two metre left of Swampy Cow Corner below black wall.
FFA: Neil Monteith & Lee Cujes - 2009-03-08
6 :     Marathon Man - Project   -   verified 26m - sport
10 bolts
Lower-off
 The left arete on the Sloper Central wall. The longest route on the crag. Easy for a while then punchy to small ledge. Jug out bulge and finish up final epic wall on unlikely holds to exciting finish onto ledge. Stay off until complete.
FFA: 2029-10-06
7 :     Swampy Cow Corner   -   verified     IMGIMG 20m 20sport
7 bolts
Lower-off
 Stylish major right facing corner in middle of crag.
Tricky bulge at start, which is easier if started slightly to the right. Wander up easy corner for a few metres then start stemming up a surprisingly blank fused corner. When it ends step left onto ledge past FH to rap anchor.
FFA: Neil Monteith - 2008-10-17
8 :     Sea of Slopes   -   verified     IMG 20m 22sport
7 bolts
Lower-off
 Start as for Swampy Cow Corner. At 2nd bolt trend right onto orange wall. Weave up this trying to locate anything that might be actually usable amongst the sea of slopers. Finish at double rings under roof.
FFA: Neil Monteith & Lee Cujes - 2008-10-16
9 :     Sea of Sleep - LINK-UP   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 20m 21sport
8 bolts
Lower-off
 Climbs the best rock on the wall without too many weird mantle moves. Start as for Sea of Slopes to 3rd bolt. Traverse right to Siesta - up this past several bolts to the 'ledge' where you can traverse left to the anchors above Sea of Slopes.
2008-01-18
FFA: Neil Monteith - 1999-11-30
10 :     Siesta   -   verified     IMGIMG 22m 24sport
8 bolts
Lower-off
 Sustained and independent line just to the the right of Sea of Slopes, with a punchy lip traversing start on pockets and a long sustained wall above. Don't cheat by finishing at Sea of Slopes anchors - the real finish is right and above the roof (hidden bolt) on the black slab.
FFA: Neil Monteith - 2008-10-17
    Lee - Project??m -
 Only partially equipped (FH & UB). Note: need grinder (cutting disc), putty, green alien, then come in from the top to finish. Keep off.
Start 10m R of Siesta.
    Purty Lips LHV 15m 21Unknown
 As for PL to first big scoop on left wall. Hop in, dyno/reach break, monkey horizontally left and finish up crack in arete. Not yet equipped.
FA: FTRA Lee Cujes
11 :     Purty Lips   -   verified     IMG 12m 18sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Right facing orange corner with capped roof. From ground, up easy angle slab passing one UB. Then stem up corner to clip+lower station under roof.
FFA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, Glen, Cherie, Sam Cujes & Neil Monteith - 2009-03-08
12 :     Squeal Like a Pig   -   verified     IMG 17m 19sport
6 bolts
Lower-off
Toprope
 Come in from the right to start. Very easy climbing up juggy wall to a tricky sloper move just under the roof (well protected) to break. Avoid the roof on it's right using good slots. Up wall above to tree anchor (rope & mallion).
Starts 2m right of Purty Lips
FFA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, Sam Cujes, Glen, Cherie and Neil Monteith - 2009-03-07
13 :     Manta Ray   -   verified     IMG 18m 17sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 A long atmospheric jug haul up a giant flake feature.
Walk 100m right of Squeal Like a Pig past numerous walls and caves to find this route.
FFA: Lee Cujes - 2009-03-08


Copyright, ACA, 2012