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The Australian Route Register

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South Central

  - 06 Illawarra (inc Nowra & Point Perpendicular)
    - 2. Nowra (City Crags)
      - 06. Bomaderry Creek
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:For some, South Central embodies all that is ugly about Nowra, a short, steep, dusty, urbanised crag but then there are those that are totally captivated by the powerful style of climbing here and feel at peace with the world as the dappled early morning sunlight filters through the trees and dances on the rock. The climbing here requires power, endurance and lots of it. The rock is steep and comprised of those notoriously slick Nowra slopers so if there has been extended periods of rain or high humidity don’t expect conditions to be great. But having said that, South Central is a crag you can still climb at if it is raining. So be warned, if you only come here once expect to get spanked and go home with aching forearms and a reputation in tatters but if you have the courage to come back a couple of times and get used to the style of climbing required you might start to believe that South Central is the best crag at Nowra.
Location:Driving west along Illaroo Rd, turn right into Phillip Dr, left into Castle Glen and at the end of the road turn right into Jamieson Rd and park down the hill at the end of the road. From here walk 70m straight ahead down the track until you reach a small 1m high waterfall on your left (usually dry). Cross the creek here and continue for 30m until you reach the crag. Alternatively you can park as for Mortein Wall and work your way past Rosies, Bartondale etc until you reach the waterfall.
Rock:   Walk:   <5 mins
Wet Weather:Dry
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:Ashy



    Dickman And Throbbin     IMGIMG 12m 25sport
FA: Graham Fairbairn - 1992-00-00
    Censor This, Motherfucker     IMG 20m 26sport
10 bolts
 A grand link-up/traverse that avoids the awful start on Brown Badge.
Start up Dickman & Throbbin to the fourth bolt. Then head right, crossing Black Flag to the slopey, juggy ledge on Maintain The Rage. Move up & right, up Brown Badge for a few moves, before going through the slimey scoop beneath the roof to finish at the anchors of Plastic Exploding Inevitable.
FA: Chris Firth - 2012-07-13
    The Duralax Kid     IMG 12m 25sport
FA: Nick Sutter - 1992-00-00
    Black Flag     IMGIMG 15m 29sport
FA: George Fieg - 1996-00-00
    Black Rage     IMG 15m 28sport
 A good line that shares the first two rings of Maintain The Rage before veering slightly left and up the wall and finishes up Black Flag.
FA: Luke Magill - 2006-04-25
    Maintain The Rage     IMGIMG 15m 27sport
 Start as for BB.
Up BB for 3 bolts then go straight up.
FA: Chris Wallace - 1995-00-00
    Brown Badge     IMGIMG 17m 27sport
9 bolts
 Excellent bouldery first move, then just plain excellent. Would easily get 3 stars if not for the big rest.
Start at the cheatstones 5m L of SB.
Straight up for 3 RBs, then diagonally R past fixed biner to the SB DRB (rest). Blast straight up the steep wall above with tonnes of slopers. Everyone bails R onto the arete for the last move - but go direct to the anchor if you're feeling strong!
FA: Paul Westwood - 1994-00-00
    Sperm Bitches     IMG 8m 30sport
 3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope.
FA: Paul Westwood - 1995-07-09
    Plastic Exploding Inevitable     IMGIMG 20m 30sport
 Start as for Ain't no Sunshine.
Up ANS for a few bolts then, instead of veering R to finish, keep heading left for a few more bolts through steep territory just left of the arete, finishing just R of Brown Badge.
FA: Zac Vertrees - 1999-00-00
    Ain't No Sunshine     IMGIMG 15m 28sport
 The real classic of this area. Relentlessly steep and consistent cranking. Very enjoyable moves with no let up until the anchors.
Start below the obvious hanging arete.
A hard sequence at staight from the ground leads to a good obvious undercling. Head left to the arete, and then up to another break and the final hard moves up the arete.
FA: Stuart Wyithe - 1993-00-00
    Physical Graffiti 10m 30sport
 Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.
FA: George Fieg
    Crenshaw Boulevarde 10m 30sport
FA: George Fieg - 1998-00-00
    Public Domain     IMGIMG 12m 28sport
FA: Rob Lebreton - 1996-07-00
    Comin' At Ya Hyper     IMGIMG 12m 27sport
FA: Andrew Bull - 1995-00-00
    Red Baron     IMGIMGIMG 10m 26sport
4 bolts
 Heel hook your way up to the third bolt (strenuous clip). Throw for the lip, grunt, then continue to the top holds trying not to fall whilst clipping. Awesome!
FA: Paul Westwood - 1992-00-00
    Dungeon Master     IMGIMG 20m 31sport
FA: George Fieg - 1995-00-00
    Mega Death Direct     IMGIMG 10m 27sport
FA: Garth Miller - 1994-00-00
    Mega Death     IMG??m26sport
 Up obvious corner to wild traverse rightwards on roof. Very underrated thrashing.
FA: Paul Westwood
    No Name     IMGIMG 9m 23sport
FA: Chris Wallace - 1995-00-00
    There Goes The Neighourhood     IMGIMG 9m 24sport
FA: Andrew Bull - 1992-00-00
    Scum     IMGIMG 10m 25sport
FA: Jared McCulloch - 1992-00-00
    Scumbag 20m 29sport
FA: Zac Vertrees
    Sex Machine     IMGIMG 10m 26sport
FA: Jared McCulloch - 1992-00-00
    Scumy Sex 10m 26sport
 link up of sex machine into scum
FA: George Broadfoot - 2006-08-15
    Crime Is Art     IMGIMG 10m 23sport
FA: Jared McCulloch - 1992-00-00
Two Bolts And Not For Me
9m 23sport
 Caution: Old rusty hangers have just about fallen out.
FA: Tara Sutherland - 1993-00-00
    Art Is Fucked     IMGIMG 8m 23sport
FA: Dave Filan - 1992-00-00
    Hunted Child     IMGIMG 8m 22sport
FA: Stewart Wyithe - 1992-00-00
    Strike     IMGIMG 7m 23sport
FA: Paul Westwood - 1992-00-00
    Silver Hands     IMG 9m 19sport
 Was once the hardest 17 in the known universe.
FA: Paul Westwood - 1992-00-00
    Bag Of Sand     IMGIMG 8m 21sport
FA: Paul Westwood - 1992-00-00
    KKK Bitch 8m 23sport
FA: Paul Westwood - 1992-00-00
    Itchy Quims     IMGIMG 9m 21sport
FA: Graeme Hill - 1992-00-00
    Burping Burgers     IMG 8m 19sport
FA: Veronique Hill - 1992-00-00
    Poo With Me     IMGIMG 9m 24sport
FA: Graham Fairbairn - 1992-00-00
    Poo With Me (Right Variant)     IMGIMG 9m 24sport
FA: Graham Fairbairn - 1992-00-00
    Word Up     IMGIMG 12m 24sport
FA: Andrew Dunbar - 1993-00-00
    Word Up (Direct Variant)     IMGIMG 9m 24sport
FA: Greame Hill - 1997-00-00
    Dungeon Dykes     IMGIMG 7m 23sport
FA: Greame Hill - 1999-00-00
    Torra Torra Pass     IMGIMG 6m 21sport
FA: Veronique Hill - 1996-12-00
    Bushbash 5m 17sport
FA: Mark Woodard - 1996-00-00
    Slippery When Wet     IMGIMG 6m 17sport
FA: Graeme Hill - 1997-01-00

Recent Ascents

Tricky Mega Deathsweet little
Richo1981 Brown BadgeNothing short of amazing, the climbing gets better the higher you go. Dont let the first move scare you off.free272012-07-21
christo Maintain The Ragefree2012-07-15
christo Comin' At Ya Hyperfree2012-07-15
Norry Black Rage29 for sure, harder than Bffree292012-07-10
Norry Black Flagfree292012-07-07
Norry Maintain The Ragefree272012-07-07
Norry Physical GraffitiProbably 31, bit spicyfree312012-07-07
Sonic Crime Is ArtGo straight up - its better!red-point232012-06-30
Olbert Maintain The RageSmashed it! On a pretty bad conditions day too!!free272012-06-17
Olbert Brown BadgeFinally got that first move! Was actually an awesome move in good conditions. The rest of the route is pretty awesome as well!free272012-06-09
LukeH Silver Handsflash2012-06-09
LukeH Bag Of Sandflash2012-06-09
Olbert Mega DeathFinally got it! After not having a chance for sooooo long - I got on it right at the end of the day too, after I ticked Brown Badge!free262012-06-09
onemiletofreedom Comin' At Ya HyperHardfree2012-05-12
Samuel Silver Handsfree192012-03-17
Seb No Namefree232012-01-03
Olbert Red BaronThe dyno start is such an awesome dyno! Really no hard with it infree262011-12-22
Tricky Maintain The RageFirst day on it. 2 gos. pretty sweet moves.dog2011-12-02
Tricky Brown Badgesuch a sweet feeling.. First day of summer and we are climbing at South Central.... ;-)red-point272011-12-01

Copyright, ACA, 2012