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The Australian Route Register

Mountain Lion


Crag:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 07. The Victoria Range
      - 7. Chimney Pots Area
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:Refer to Mentz/Tempest Grampians Select Climbs 2nd ed for topos. There are lots of lower-grade climbs in an accessible location. There's also some bouldering being developed.

The highest point of the cliff is visible from the road and is the location of The Lion in Winter and is a useful landmark. People in the past have imagined this feature to resemble a "lion's head" profile giving rise to the "Mountain Lion".

Location:From the Henty Highway (A200), follow the Glenelg River Road towards The Chimney Pots. About 2km after crossing Harrop Track there is a small car park (about 3 cars) on the right with a wonky sign indicating Mountain Lion. Cross the road and follow the track to the cliff. After about 5mins walking the cliff line becomes apparent and the tack divides with one pad going right, uphill, towards the summit and the other going left to the climbs. Follow the pad off left along the cliff base. Walking along the base takes 5-10 minutes to a large cave where a hole on the right gives access to the Vanya Wall, the left-most part of the cliff.

Climbs are described from right-to-left.

Rock:   Walk:   5-15 mins
Wet Weather:Damp
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:pharmamatt


Issues

Routes

    Lionhearted 20m 16trad
 Two metres right of the juggy lines is a thin, closed seam going up diagonally right.
The seam, dodging around to find protection.
FA: Campbell Mercer - 1991-12-29
    Elsa 10m 7Unknown
 May be a repeat of A Soft Furry Thing. As you walk past the southern face of the Mountain Lion there is a slab with a broken corner with two cracks.
Take the left crack.
FA: John Handley, Dale Wakefield - 1994-03-14
    A Soft Furry Thing 17m 8trad
Walk-off
 This climb appears to take the juggy flake system just left of Lionhearted. Just to confuse things, here's the original location description, but don't take it too seriously : "The buttress to the left of a large tree growing flat across the track, just up the hill from Lionhearted.".
Up the righthand crack for 4 metres, step right, up the flake/crack system to the terrace, up the crack above on the right.
FA: Scott Johnson, Helen Travers - 1994-01-30
    Dim Sims 12m 16trad
 Steep bridging and buckets up line 2 metres right of arete on south-facing wall.
FA: Geoff Butcher - 1997-02-28
    Leo The Line 25m 22trad
Walk-off
 This is probably more worthwhile as a boulder problem than a climb. Take a couple of mats, boulder to the jugs then jump off. You might even be able to sit-start it.
The obvious line through the overhang right of the orange corner into the juggy scoop. Step left onto the arete and up.
FA: Jeremy Boreham, Mike Wust, James McIntosh - 1992-12-05
    Pussy Galore 17m 16trad
 Climb into Leo's corner then step right at break to arete. Climb this as for Leo The Line.
FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher - 1997-02-28
    Leo 20m 12trad
 The small orange corner.
An energetic start off the ground on the arete directly under the roof. Up to the roof, step left and up.
FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Seidel - 1991-12-28
    Kitty Litter 20m 9Unknown
 Start at right-hand crack at the base of Not Christians For Dinner Again.
Up, step right to the block. Up the left side of the chimney to the chockstone. Step onto the right wall and up.
FA: Scitt Johnson, Helen Travers - 1994-01-29
    Not Christians For Dinner Again 20m 11trad
 Start on the left wall of the gully, just right of the left arete.
Follow the flake to its top, then up.
FA: Campbell Mercer - 1991-12-28
    Lion Tamer 12m 18 M0trad
 Start 2 metres left of Not Christians For Dinner Again.
Crack and short wall with rests on runners.
FA: Campbell Mercer, Michael Reggle - 1992-12-06
    The Pink Panther Steps Out 25m 16trad
 Start at crack 2 metres left of Lion Tamer
Up, step left at ledge and up right face of the arete.
FA: Michael Renggli, Campbell Mercer - 1992-12-06
    Tiger Tiger! 25m 15trad
 Start at crack 5.5 metres left of
Up, step left at break and up centre of arete.
FA: Campbell Mercer, Michael Renggli, Peter Seidel - 1992-12-06
    The Lion's Den 20m 7trad
 Start 7 metres left of Not Christians For Dinner Again at crack separating the deatched block from the main face.
Follow the main crack unti it gets too narrow then continue up right side of buttress.
FA: Darren Lynch, Andrew Lynch - 1992-12-06
    Fat Cat And Friends 20m 11trad
 Start 8 metres left of Not Christians For Dinner Again.
Mossy chimney then squeeze through the roof and scamble up.
FA: Simon Todman, David Cunningham, Paul Roadley - 1993-01-17
    Zsa-Zsa's Crack 30m 7trad
 Pleasant bridging up the wide chimney at the left end of the overhanging wall.
FA: Simon Todman, Peter Watling - 1991-03-11
    Sabre Tooth 30m 17trad
 On the left arete of Zsa-Zsa's Crack is a crack that peters out.
Up crack until it peters out., step right with difficulty, then up more easily in the juggy line above.
FA: Campbell Mercer - 1992-01-01
    What's A Pussy Then? 8m 12trad
 Start 10 metres left of Zsa-Zsa's Crack.
Left of twin cracks 1 metre right of small mossy crack.
FA: Scott Johnson
    Bunny Plate 15m 14trad
 This is described as starting 30 metres right of Wildcat. It appears to be a steep line bounding the left side of an orange section.
The line direct to the top.
FA: Mark Connor, Stuart Willis - 1992-12-11
    Kitten With A Whip 20m 16trad
 Start 3m to the right of Wildcat
Go up vertical crack line for 2m resisting the temptation to veer left by keeping right and go straight up. At the slightly sloped break (About 1m below scooped out section) veer left to cross Wildcat and take its left handbranch, topping out to the right of the bollard of Lion Premiums.
FA: Glen Buchanan, Louise Doig, Karen Sutherland, Andy Johnston - 2001-01-29
    Wildcat 20m 17trad
 On the same block as Pangur Ban, 3 metres right of the arete.
The crack, taking the right-hand branch near the top with some doubtful holds.
FA: Peter Watling, Simon Todman - 1991-03-09
    Lion Premiums 15m 17Top Rope
 Steeper than you expect.
The middle of the orange wall on the detached block.
Up the middle of the orange wall.
FA: Peter Treby, Neil Barr - 1990-00-00
    Pangur Ban 20m 15trad
 Start at the left arete of the detached block.
Up right of the overhang on the arete, move left below the small bulge and straight up on steep grey rock.
FA: Peter Watling, Simon Todman - 1991-03-09
    Ray Ban 15m 5Unknown
 Start at juggy line 3 metres left of Pangur Ban on north-facing wall. This used to be 2 metres right of a large gumtree, but that has now fallen over and lies across the base of the climb.
Up line, step right to dodge gumtree (probably not any longer), then up.
FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Seidel - 1991-12-29
    Cats Keep Coming Back 20m 8trad
 Start at the arete immediately right of the right-hand chimney.
Up, starting just left of the arete.
FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Seidel - 1991-12-29
    The Eye Of The Tiger 20m 7trad
 Not to be confused with the route of the same name at Muline.
Take the right-hand chimney then up the orange corner above to pull through the "eye" (a gap in the small roof).
FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Seidel - 1991-12-29
    Feline Faculites 20m 8Unknown
 The right arete of the left-hand chimney.
Start at the base of the left-hand chimney.
Move diagonally right to the arete. Up the arete then diagonally right across small upper slab to the break in the roof.
FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Seidel - 1991-12-29
    The Paw 30m 9Top Rope
 Start at chimney 3 metres left of The Eye Of The Tiger.
Thrutch up the left-hand chimney then up the orange wall. Pull up over rooflet then more easily.
FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Seidel - 1991-12-29
    Soaked And Smoked 55m 17trad
Walk-off
 A little contrived.
FA: Peter Treby, S. McLelland - 1988-10-00
P1(45m, 17)The right-hand line on the main face, leading up to the "lion's jaws". Near the top ignore the easiest line and climb more compact rock to the left. Belay below the jaws
P2(10m, -)Juggy wall left of the "jaws".
    Sylvester 35m 12trad
 Superb, but all too short, orange wall. Originally done in two pitches.
Start 13 metres left of Soaked And Smoked directly below an obvious break in the roof just left of the triangular orange wall and roof.
Up to the roof at 10 metres(belay possible). Pull easily through roof then directly up the compact orange wall above. Tend right at the bush to finish beneath the "jaws".
FA: Julie Nitschke, Campbell Mercer - 1993-11-14
    Pawed And Clawed 35m 18Unknown
 Good rock and reachy crux.
Start 2 metres left of Sylvester just left of the small orange roof.
Follow the left-leaning diagonal cracks to the obvious ledge. Step right and up to the arete. Continue up the blunt arete and then more easily up the upper slab.
FA: Campbell Mercer, Michael Renggli - 1992-12-05
    The Lion In Winter 25m 18trad
 Good line with problematic start. Grade opinions vary between 16 and 18.
Take the line up the left-hand buttress below the "lion's head".
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman - 1988-10-00
    The Jaguar Express 25m 6trad
 An easy climb was done right of DTB in 1990 by Peter Allen and Kieran Sell. This may be the same climb.
Start 3 metres right of Decapitating Tweety Birds.
Up initial crack fro 3 metres (use the tree or it's grade 16) then diagonally right to and up crack in upper wall.
FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Seidel - 1991-12-29
    Whiskers 22m 6trad
Walk-off
 Another variant. Start as for Decapitating Tweety Birds.
Up groove to break. Go diagonally right to the obvious break in the wall and up.
FA: Julie Nitschke, Campbell Mercer - 1991-12-14
    And the Mice Screamed 22m 12trad
Walk-off
 Start in same groove as Decapitating Tweety Birds and at the break continue directly up the wall.
FA: Campbell Mercer - 1991-12-28
    Decapitating Tweety Birds     IMG 23m 16trad
Walk-off
 A bit sparse on gear in sections
Start at a short groove in the right-hand face, 5 metres right of the right-hand flake.
Climb the groove for 3 metres to a ledge. Step left and up the seam for 4 metres to a break. Follow break left for 4 metres to thin crack and up this, 1 metre right of flake line.
FA: James McIntosh, Peter Watling - 1989-04-19
    The Lion on the Line 18m 14trad
Walk-off
 Direct start to Decapitating Tweety Birds. Start 4 metres left of that climb.
Up to and along the crack.
FA: Neil Barr, Peter Treby - 1990-00-00
    Kimba 18m 14trad
Walk-off
 Start at the left side of the "dished out" section of wall, directly below the flake in the middle of the wall.
Straight up to the flake, then up.
FA: Rob Pease, Monica Gallus - 1991-12-14
    Vanya was a Black Feral Cat in Drag     IMG 15m 7trad
Walk-off
 Good. Much better protection than nice puss
Climb the wall midway between two flake lines to a crack at half-height. Finish up the crack.
FA: Neil Barr, Glen Donohue, Andrew Webb - 1988-10-00
    
Nice Puss
15m 7trad
Walk-off
 Not very well protected
The wall and flake just left of Vanya Was A Black Feral Cat In Drag.
FA: Peter Treby - 1988-10-00
    Who is Vanya? 20m 6trad
Walk-off
 Face 2 metres left of Nice Puss, about 1 metre right of the descent chimney.
FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Seidel - 1991-12-18
    
Here Kitty
15m 17trad
Walk-off
 Not well-protected.
Thin crack 1.5 metres left of the descent chimney.
FA: Peter Treby, Neil Barr - 1988-10-00
    Flea Bait 15m 10trad
Walk-off
 The crack just left of Here Kitty, starting on the right and joining the crack above the bush.
FA: Peter Watling, James McIntosh - 1989-04-29
    Meow 15m 15trad
Walk-off
 Thin line just left of Flea Bait.
FA: Peter Treby - 1988-10-00
    Lion-ardo     IMG 17m 20trad
Walk-off
 The discontinuous line 2.5 metres left of Meow
Step off the block just to left of Meow, move diagonally left to the thin crack that finishes at a small flake. Up the line, over the flake and up.
FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke - 1991-12-14
    Alley Cats 17m 16trad
Walk-off
 Start 3 metres right of Masticating Mice near the "arete".
Up to the ledge, step right around the arete, then up, tending slightly left toward the top.
FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke, Mark Nitschke - 1992-01-11
    Masticating Mice     IMG 14m 17trad
Walk-off
 Sensational overhanging corner on left side of the wall. Exit right at the fianl roof, which can also be climbed direct.
FA: James McIntosh, Peter Watling - 1989-04-29
    Watcha Gonna Call It 10m 7trad
 Climb the narrow band of smooth rock on the arete.
FA: Jill Pearce, Jo Whitelaw, Michael Mulcairn, Peter Watling - 1993-11-14
    Purr 12m 10trad
Walk-off
 A few metres right of Watcha Gonna Call It is a bottomless corner.
Step off the block under the overhang to gain the corner and follow it.
FA: Peter Watling, Michael Mulcairn - 1993-11-14

Recent Ascents

pharmamatt Masticating Micenice bridging with some steep movesonsight172010-01-17
pharmamatt Here Kittywould be quite a difficult onsight gear could be betterdog172010-01-17
pharmamatt Decapitating Tweet...interesting especially when caught out in a brief shower in a runout sectiononsight162010-01-17

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