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The Australian Route Register

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Weirs Creek

  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 07. The Victoria Range
      - 1. Camp Of The Emu's Foot Track (incl. Eureka Wall, Gondwanaland, Lost World)
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:Weirs Creek is the main drainage east of Emus' Foot. The lowest crag on Weirs Creek looks like a pile of choss. However, there are some good things tucked away. The Disparate Housewives Wall offers excellent moderate sport-climbing and there are some other things scattered about and some other potential. The bottom of Disparate Housewives Wall seeps heavily for a long time after rain so be prepared to bail water from holds during spring. This wall faces west and comes into the sun about 1 PM (Daylight-saving time). An early start is advised in summer. The creek water is safe to drink and on a warm day is very nice just before the 10 minutes uphill back to the car. To help keep it that way please take care with toileting. A trowel is in place at the base of the cliff to help bury faeces. Please descend the track a little and then go across the hillside away from the creek to do your business. Dig a good hole. Also, please carry out any used toilet or tissue paper that doesn't require burial. Take some plastic bags to carry the used paper.
Location:From the parking area below Jananginj Njani walk past the locked gate and follow the continuation of Camp Of The Emu's Foot Track east and gently downhill for about 10 minutes until Weir's Creek is crossed and the track ends. Turn right and go up to the cliff on the eastern side of the creek, heading for orange rock below the tallest part.
Rock:   Walk:   15-30 mins
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:kieranl


Map One

(scaled down)


1 :     Matter 10m 17sport
5 bolts
 Pleasant face near the top of the gully.
Step left off boulder and up.
FA: Kieran Loughran - 2010-11-00
2 :     Open Project 15m - Unknown
 The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. The bottom section needs bolting.
    Smokey and the Banditos   -   verified     IMG 17m 25sport
8 bolts
 Start at the u bolts right of the arete. follow these till a bolt leads you left across a black scoop via a horizontal break to the arete and the fixed hangers above. Some very funky climbing!
FFA: Adam Demmert. Catherine de Vaus - 2008-00-00
    Smokey and the Banditos Direct - PROJECT 20m - sport
 Open PROJECT. Start as for SATB instead of heading left blast up the wall via very small crimps and side pulls.
3 :     Special Circumstances (Open Project) 15m - Unknown
 Right of the chimney gully is a left-right rising traverse below an overhang.
The inital wall past a bolt to the overhang and try to follow the line to a lower-off at the end of the roof. Will probably need more bolts
4 :     Grey Area 12m 15trad
 Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams.
Face starting 3 metres left of the corner of Contact to anchor of Special Circumstances at right end of roof system.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth - 2011-08-13
5 :     Contact 12m 16trad
 Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle.
The short corner to large sloping ledge and up slightly left to anchor for Grey Area.
FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran - 2010-05-00
6 :     Return Of The Native 50m 9trad
 Start at the left side of the cliff just before it breaks up into gullies, at the left edge of an easy face below the left edge of orange overhangs at 15 metres.
Up the face with a bulge at 7 metres to the line immediately left of the overhangs and up to ledge at 30 metres. Continue up the steeper corner to a large sloping ledge. Either go left to the rap anchor for Contact or continue and on up the face to terrace. 20 metre abseil to terrace to east (will have to leave a sling) and descend gully.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth - 2010-05-00
7 :     Sleeper Service 65m 15trad
 Pleasant first pitch but second pitch breaks down quickly.
Start at the base of the gully immediately right of where the track meets the cliff.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman (alt) - 2010-10-00
P1(20m, 12)Traverse diagonally left, following crack just above lip of overhang. Climb wall past right sid of next overhang and up to belay at end of big diagonal ramp.
P2(45m, 15)Move right and make committing move through the bulge. Continue up, taking care with rock (fragile, loose blocks). Belay off tree on ridge at the top of Disparate Housewives Wall. Either scramble, roped,across to rap anchor on Disparate Housewives or go to the top and walk east to the Matter gully.
8 :     Dumber Bay 8m 20sport
3 bolts
 A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top.
The lower-off currently are some old krabs on the hangers. Quite safe but will be upgraded to a more permanent setup shortly.
Scramble out the ramp left of Disparate Housewives to 2 belay bolts on ramp system.
Short, seamy wall starting at flake from ramp system.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth - 2011-10-15
    Climber Wants a Wife   -   verified     IMG 14m 23sport
6 bolts
 Leftmost of the good pocketed routes. Easy pocketed start to left slanting weakness, then fingery crux up grey wall.
FA: Neil Monteith & Rebecca Hopkins - 2012-04-00
9 :     Disparate Housewives     IMGIMG 20m 19sport
7 bolts
 Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall.
The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor.
FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman - 2010-08-00
10 :     The Young And The Wrestlers     IMG 25m 19sport
10 bolts
 More steep pocket-pulling leads to a finish crack.
Just right of Disparate Housewives
Easy to second bolt. Now steeply up bulge then step left to rest. Go up into finishing crack.
FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran - 2011-03-20
11 :     Hysteria Lane     IMGIMG 25m 21sport
10 bolts
 Great, varied climbing that keeps you going right to the end. The start stays wet for a long time, in fact it hasn't been dry yet. Again grade is a toss-up, 20 or 21.
Overhanging pockets starting at the lowest point of wall then slab, wall and flake.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth - 2010-12-29
    Closed Project??m - Unknown
 Curving line with 2 bolts going up right from the start of Hysteria Lane is James closed project.
12 :     Widow Of Opportunity     IMG 25m 17sport
10 bolts
 Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch.
Start from ledge just above cave right of Hysteria Lane.
Bridge up to first bolt then traverse left. At 3rd bolt, go up until the arete is gained. Follow this to a good finish. Past the 9th bolt is possibly easiest to the left but it does lead away from the bolt line. The technical moves to the right on the arete are very good and are recommended.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood - 2010-09-00
13 :     Barefoot And Poignant     IMG 20m 23sport
9 bolts
 Start in same place as Widow Of Opportunity.
Follow crack line straight up and continue up wall when it fades.
FA: Alex Trnovsky - 2011-09-17
    Closed Project??m - Unknown
 Link-up from anchor on 'Barefoot and Poignant' into 'Fairies and Blutterfies'. 2 bolts, onlly 1 in place. If this can be started with the project moving up right from the start of 'Hysteria Lane'...
    Fairies and Blutterfies     IMGIMG 20m 24sport
9 bolts
 Next line up right of Barefoot And Poignant starting with some beautiful pockets. A little crumbly rock higher doesn't really detract.
FA: Alex Trnovsky - 2013-02-02
    Mailorder Bribe 20m 16sport
6 bolts
 Good start but overall just something to loosen up on.

Start at the little face at the head of the access gully, where you go left to the base of the main wall.
Face past 4 bolts. Easy ground then up left side of arete to anchors.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth - 2010-12-29
    Lapsed Pacifist   -   verified     IMG 15m 21sport
7 bolts
 East-facing, orange-streaked wall that is obvious from walking track and Disparate Housewives area. The first clip looks a bit daunting but is quite easy and safe if the belayer is organised properly.
From the tree-fern gully continue steeply up the hillside below the cliffs. Continue past the large, rust-coloured slabby corner to the next gully and up a little to below the orange streaks.
Step across gap to short diagonal past 2 bolts. Up on thin holds then thin moves before moving right and up.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth - 2012-04-09

Recent Ascents

timw Disparate Housewivessoft at gr18 - enormous holds!onsight172012-01-15
timw Hysteria Lanered-point2012-01-15
timw Widow Of Opportunityworth a couple of starsonsight2012-01-15
timw Matterenjoyable routeonsight2012-01-15
timw The Young And The ...free2012-01-15
pharmamatt Disparate Housewivesonsight182011-11-12
pharmamatt Widow Of Opportunityflash172011-11-12
pharmamatt Mailorder Bribefree162011-11-12
pharmamatt The Young And The ...flash182011-11-12

Copyright, ACA, 2012