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The Australian Route Register

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Sandinista Wall

  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 04. N & NE Mt Stapylton - Hollow Mountain Side
This area is locked for editing by the parent crag. Route additions are not allowed by the parent crag.
Description:The glamour crag of Hollow Mountain. Sandinista Wall is steep, pocketed and to the most part bolted. It contains some of the region's hardest climbs including the all trad testpiece Journey Through Nicaragua (30) and the amazing bolted Somoza (32). The first ascent list is a who's who of Victorian hard men with Lindorff, Carrigan, HB, Dave Jones and Nathan Hoette all putting their names to impressive climbs. This area is right above the tourist track so please behave accordingly. This will be many people's first contact with climbers so try and refrain from swearing, going to the toilet or leaving quickdraws on the routes overnight.

The cliff is steep enough to withstand rain very well at first, but then seepage becomes quite a problem. It faces into the sun from morning until mid afternoon and is a four season crag, being steep enough to offer plenty of afternoon shade when the sun is high in summer, and being a fantastic sheltered suntrap in winter.

Location:620m from carpark. 36.53.501s, 142.23.003e. The approach to this crag is one of the easiest in the Grampians. Follow the tourist track from Hollow Mtn carpark. The tracks winds through scrub for 10 minutes, then climbs up a few rock steps to reach the impressive overhung and chalked up Sandinista Wall. The tourist track then goes left along the base for 50m before a switchback to the R to ascend a small gully/cleft to arrive above Sandinista Wall. To descend off these routes walk back down the tourist track.
Rock:   Walk:   5-15 mins
Wet Weather:Dry
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:nmonteith


Map One


Map One



1 :     Reversing Peregrines     IMG 35m 24mixed
4 bolts
 Awesomely pumpy fun thugging. The topo currently shows the original piker's version.
Start 8m left of Fading Fast. Stick clip recommended.
Diagonally R on shattered rock to FH, then steeply past UB to join major cliff-splitting R-wards diagonal. Pump 15m up R along this past 2nd UB, across Fading Fast & Contra, and 5m further to FH. Now straight up to lower-off (60m rope essential). Full set of cams incl. #4 camalot, plus medium wires. The original piker's version finished as for FF, & you can also pike by lowering off SaL's anchor.
FA: Will Monks, Steve Chapman (piker's version: Will Monks & Neil Monteith 21-08-2005) - 2008-07-27
2 :     
Fading Fast
20m 24trad
 A steep climb up the short but deceptively overhanging wall just left of where the track hits the cliff and turns right. Carrigan led this route onsight the day after his one-point ascent of the Seventh Pillar.
Marked by small white square.
Up the line, fading fast, to the major horizontal break. Swing right beneath dead bush and then up the thin crack 4m L of Contra. The easiest descent is to use Contra's lower-offs.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Kieran Loughran (as far as the RP!) - 1982-05-01
3 :     Snakes And Ladders     IMG 15m 29sport
4 bolts
 Incipient pocketed seam just left of Contra with several bolts.
Awkward undercut start then pockets and finally an all out throw for the ledge to join Fading Fast. The subsequent addition of a DRB lower-off was rather unfortunate, as it is a retrobolt of Fading Fast and the anchor of Contra can easily be reached a few metres higher and to the right.
FA: Garry Phillips - 2005-10-00
4 :     Contra Arms Pump     IMGIMG 20m 30mixed
2 bolts
 A popular steep powerful flake and pocket climb. One of the first routes of this style done in the Grampians. The climb eases up considerably in the upper half.
Start 15m left of Sandinista at the well chalked flake crack.
Up flake past two FH's and a very hard crux. Up pumpy wall above. At the horizontal break, step right and up short headwall to top. Double UB lower-off.
FA: Malcolm Matheson - 1989-04-04
5 :     Chris Jones' Project (open) 15m - sport
6 bolts
 Chris has declared this open!
It's the line of about 6 (??) rusty FH's between Contra and David Or-Tiger.
Hard V11 into a 27/28 to the first anchor. There is a bolt that connects this route across to the top of Daniel Or-Tiger via a completely horizontal 6ft all points off dyno. Chris spent three or four days on it in 2001 and did it from the ground to the last section of the crux then from above the crux to the top but could never actually hold the crux pinch from below.
FA: Equipped by Chris Jones in 2001
6 :     Daniel Or Tiger     IMGIMGIMG 22m 31sport
6 bolts
 Daniel Ortega? Classic sustained line of pockets up a very steep wall. Six FH's and a fixed thread.
Starts 3m left of Sandinista at the pocketed crack. Stickclip first bolt and clean/dry holds before starting.
FA: Martin Scheel (Redpointed after six days of effort) - 1989-04-00
7 :     Sparticus     IMGIMGIMG 25m 33sport
 Hardest route in the Grampians?
Link-up of Daniel Or-Tiger into Samosa via some mind-blowing climbing. Very sustained with a bouldery crux.
FA: Nathan Hoette - 2002-00-00
8 :     Somoza     IMGIMG 25m 32sport
10 bolts
 One of the hardest routes in the Grampians. Sustained. Often mistakenly called Samosa, but the naming theme is Nicaraguan revolutionaries not pastries!
Start as for Sandinista then continue straight up the steep wall past many (10?) FH's.
FA: Dave Jones - 1999-00-00
9 :     Sandinista     IMGIMGIMG 33m 22trad
 The stunning overhanging diagonal. The easiest way up this wall! The protection is brilliant and the pump is always present. One of the best lines in the Grampians.
Starts about 20m right of where the track hits the cliff.
Scramble up the rounded boulder to gain the start corner. Bring a full rack and some slings. Belay off tree and walk back down.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeff Lamb - 1982-05-01
10 :     Sandinista Direct     IMGIMG 30m 26trad
 Steep crack climbing.
Up Sandinista to ledge at half height. Up thin finger-crack in headwall. Many wires and #1 SLCD.
FA: Malcolm Matheson - 1992-04-00
11 :     
Journey Through Nicaragua     IMGIMGIMG
20m 30trad
 One of the best all trad lines in Australia. Brilliant pocketed corner on the best rock anywhere and an inspiration for all hard climbers. This was the first grade 30 in Australia done outside of Arapiles.
The superb hanging corner about 15m right of Sandinista. It finishes at the same point as Sandinista. Gain access to the corner by stepping in from the ledge to the right.
The direct start from the ground up the pockets looks like it would be really good...if the seepage ever stops long enough.
FA: Malcolm Matheson - 1987-04-00
    Garry's Route ("Checkmate" ?)     IMG 15m 29sport
7 bolts
 Steep wall hidden away from the prying eyes of the public.
Starts on hidden ledge up right of Journey. You access this from above, by scrambling down juggy grey wall 20m R from the top of Journey.
Up the steep wall with lots of bolts (7?). Bouldery.
FA: Garry Phillips - 2007-07-00
12 :     Chad 20m 13trad
 Not a classic.
Starts at the middle of the large block 6m to the right of Journey Through Nicaragua. Marked by small white square.
Up the corner crack, then the vague arete and easy face to top.
FA: Mike Wust & C. Stewart - 1983-09-01
13 :     Etendard 25m 18trad
 Shitty. Around 10m right from Chad are three blocky corners. Up the middle line, moving left to pull up the overhanging wall. Up via the ledges above.
FA: Peter Lindorff & Michael Wust - 1983-05-11
    delete me??m - mixed

Recent Ascents

mattbrooks Contra Arms Pumpfree2011-01-19
mattbrooks Daniel Or Tigerfree2011-01-19
mattbrooks Sandinistaonsight2011-01-19
mattbrooks Reversing Peregrin...onsight2011-01-19
adRock Sandinistasecond (clean)2010-04-11
bomber pro Sandinistaonsight222002-00-00
christo Sandinistaonsight0000-00-00
Pat61 Sandinistafree0000-00-00

Copyright, ACA, 2012