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Sentinel Cave


Crag:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 07. Stapylton - Campground
This area is locked for editing by the parent crag. Route additions are allowed.
Description:One of the more popular recent Grampians developments. This is a large cave high up in the valley with an easy flat walk-in. This area features short and very steep sport routes on coarse orange rock. A large viewing area makes this a fun place to hang out with a bunch of mates and watch the sun set whilst cranking some of the sweet routes. Be very careful on the access traverse into the cave. In wet weather it is advised to rope up for the climb in and exit by absieling back out of the cave.
Location:36.55.900s, 142.23.372e From the Mt Stapylton Campground aboriginal shelter carpark (Cave of Ghosts) walk south east following the east side of a vegetated creek. A few minutes into the walk you will pass an isolated pillar of rock ‘Castle Crag’ with a few ok trad routes on it. Keep following the creek, walking along nice kangaroo grass and ferns for ten minutes until you can see a red cave above some large walls up and to the left. Try and locate some rock cairns and follow these up a gentle hill. Follow left branch of ‘creek’ up small rock gully on the left side of the cave until you can traverse directly right across exposed rock to get into the cave. Two RB’s are positioned along this traverse to use as an anchor to belay people who may be scared of the traverse. It can also be used to abseil out of the cave when the traverse is wet from rain. Late afternoon sun in summer. Full sun from midday in winter.
Rock:   Walk:   15-30 mins
Wet Weather:Dry
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:nmonteith


Issues

Map One

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Map One

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Routes

1 :     
Easier Puzzle
12m 10trad
Lower-off
 Easy trad climbing on big jugs. Start at small corner break 2m left of Half Shark Half Man. Follow corner to finish at ledge and HSHM anchors. Phil Neville, Joe Morgan-Payler, Michael Schedlberger 18.4.03
FA: Phil Neville, Joe Morgan-Payler & Michael Schedlberger - 2003-04-18
2 :     
Half Shark Half Man
14m 17sport
Lower-off
 Steep and juggy sport warm-up at the far left end of the cave. Starts halfway across the approach traverse at single u-bolt belay. Up through orange jugs and then grey cracked face. Runout between bolt 1 and 2 is scary. Three RB’s and DRB lower off.
FA: Joe Morgan-Payler, Stephen Hawkshaw & Neil Monteith 2.3.2003 - 2003-03-02
3 :     Media Puzzle     IMGIMG 16m 23sport
Lower-off
 Good pumpy workout on nice orange rock. Starts at left end of cave at small well chalked rooflet. Stick-clip first bolt. Out left across crux roof past two RB’s then up scoops on jugs (2 RB’s) to good rest. Step right and thug through steep territory past final RB to jugs and DRB lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, Joe Morgan-Payler & Jacqui Middleton - 2003-11-05
4 :     Media Puzzle Special Addition     IMGIMG 21m 23sport
Back-clean
 An excellent bonus finish to Media Puzzle. From double ringbolts monkey upside down on jugs out right along the horizontal break for 4m past 2 FH’s then up to chains (crux).
FA: Peter Daish & Damian Hall 15.11.2003 - 2003-11-15
5 :     Far Lap 30m 23mixed
Lower-off
 A long scary trad traverse from the fourth bolt on Media Puzzle across to the first bolt in the roof on Antics. The middle of the traverse is very un-protected, with a ground fall potential very likely.
FFA: Gareth Llewllin & Neil Monteith - 2003-00-00
6 :     Project 1 (Neil) 10m - sport
Lower-off
 Awkward. Starts 4m right of Media Puzzle. Up slopers then left across Media Puzzle to single UB lower-off.
FA: Equipped by Neil Monteith - 2005-00-00
7 :     Roof of Doom 35m 22mixed
Lower-off
 A scuttling novelty route across a big roof. Originally attempted on trad – but after Neil pulled a huge block off the lip and whipped upside down it was decided to bolt it. Climb to first bolt on Stepping on Snakes, traverse left across Army of Ants to big ledge. Walk left across this to FH and keep going across line (big cams) to roof flake (FH). Out impressive 3m roof and up steep arete past RB to lower off bolts.
FA: Neil Monteith, Jacqui Middleton & Joe Morgan-Payler - 2003-03-02
8 :     Project 2 (Neil) 10m - sport
Lower-off
 Line of FHs through roof left of Antics. A flapping quickdraw has been swinging on this for a few years.
FA: Equipped Neil Monteith - 2004-00-00
9 :     Antics     IMG 15m 26sport
Back-clean
 An impressive five metre roof climb. Follow Army of Ants to first bolt, then traverse left to ledge. Climb left leading roof flakes directly above the ledge past 4 FH’s to lip. Back climb to clean. No anchor.
FA: Malcolm Matheson & Jacqui Middleton - 2003-05-24
10 :     Makybe Diva 7m 25sport
Lower-off
 Short and brutal in true Nowra fashion. A direct start to Antics. Starts 3m left of Army of Ants at ground level. Three FH’s. Either lower off first bolt on Antics or continue outwards for the full grade 26 finish.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2004-12-11
11 :     Army of Ants     IMGIMG 15m 26sport
Lower-off
 Start just right of small arete in centre of cave. Tough sport route. Don’t wear slip-ons unless you’re OK with losing a shoe mid-route! Thin reachy face to start precedes big dynamic moves up steep wall and finish via big scoopy roof 1 FH & 4 RB’s. Lower off chain.
FA: Rohan Archibald, Neil Monteith & Jacqui Middleton - 2003-03-02
12 :     Stepping on Snakes     IMGIMG 13m 23sport
Lower-off
 Classic steep thugging. The second route on the right side of the cave. Mantle onto slab then up very steep horizontals to final roof dyno. Five RB’s and double RB lower off. Watch your back when lowering off.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2002-00-00
13 :     Screaming Barfies     IMG 11m 22sport
Lower-off
 An easier version of the crag classic Steeping On Snakes. Squeezed in between Dwarf Pumper and the latter – then finish as for SOS through the roof. 4 U-bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie - 2006-05-07
14 :     Dwarf Pumper     IMG 8m 20sport
Lower-off
 Self explanatory. Far right side of cave. A Nowra style mini pumpfest. Three RB’s up steep orange wall. Double RB lower off at top.
FA: Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler - 2002-11-03

Recent Ascents

Will_P Half Shark Half Manonsight2013-05-11
Will_P Dwarf Pumperonsight2013-05-11
Pat61 Half Shark Half Manonsight2011-08-27
Pat61 Screaming Barfiesflash2011-08-27
Pat61 Dwarf Pumperonsight2011-08-27
danger Half Shark Half Manfree2010-04-03
phil_nev Easier Puzzleonsight2008-07-14
phil_nev Half Shark Half Manonsight2008-07-14
phil_nev Media Puzzlered-point2008-07-14
phil_nev Media Puzzle Speci...flash2008-07-14
phil_nev Army of Antsred-point2008-07-14
phil_nev Stepping on Snakesred-point2008-07-14
phil_nev Dwarf Pumperflash2008-07-14
Super Saiyan Half Shark Half Manfree2006-12-18

Copyright, ACA, 2012