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The Australian Route Register

Flame Wall

  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 07. The Victoria Range
      - 5. Graham's Creek Area (incl. Flame Wall)
This area is locked for editing by the parent crag. Route additions are not allowed by the parent crag.
Description:An outstanding orange prow of jutting sandstone that requires a long and taxing approach. Unfortunately the centre of this formation is either too steep or too blank for mere mortals. Perhaps the next generation will take advantage of some of the incredible potential of this area. In the meantime you can enjoy some very nice face and roof routes on either side of the main prow.

Climbers have been sniffing around up here for decades. In early 2003 Neil Monteith and James Pfrunder hiked up in the pouring rain and brought back photos of the main wall dubbing it the Graham’s Creek Supercrag. They were however put off by the long approach walk, and the apparent blankness of much of the face. The sheer size and angle was enough to impress others who soon made their move. In 2005, the Yerba crew cut a path up the creek from the nearby Good Friday Wall and set about bolting the unlikely roof climb Out Of Control (24). Robin Holmes dragged several assistants in to help in his two day marathon bolting effort. Eventually he returned for the redpoint and brought in Neil Monteith and Will Monks. Neil got excited and worked furiously to bolt the steepest thing that looked possible, with Flaming Lips (26) being the end result. Steve Chapman optimistically bolted a very thin face route that was steeper than he thought upon redpoint attempts! This route might have to wait for a super hard man. In the meantime Will Monks got given a nice partially bolted project on a platter by the Yerba crew. This route had to wait for more than six months before it was finally climbed as Slow Burn (23). Earlier in the year Steve Chapman also tradded his way up a thin crack variant to Out Of Control to produce Edge Burner (23). In late 2005 Malcolm Matheson did his usual and onsighted all established routes in a single day, including a drawn out battle with the pumpy Flaming Lips. Fast forward three years and Nati local Ingvar Lidman finally puts Steve Chapman's project out of it's misery to create The Thin Red Line (29) and another hard new route - Tantalus Released (29). The main prow of Flame Wall still beckons… Malcolm rapped it – the verdict: "too hard and too far away".

Location:All up the approach takes about an hour from the road. If you are as enthusiastic as Neil you might get this down to 40 minutes. Walk into Good Friday Wall. From the far left (uphill) end of this crag keep following rock cairns and tape markers up over the hill (just south of the gorge) to arrive on rocky plateau with clear view east towards the proud Flame Wall. Walk right (south) along these rock shelves following large cairns and tape to eventually drop down into the small creek (runs for 8 months of the year). Cross this, and hike steeply up the other side to arrive at the base of the wall. For all the routes you scramble onto a friendly ledge, from the left side, that offers good sun-napping locations for belayers.

The wall faces into the sun for most of the day with shade only in the early hours of the morning. Flaming Lips is in shade until midday. Rain protection is minimal if you get caught this far out without an escape plan!

Rock:   Walk:   30-60 mins
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:nmonteith


Map One


Map One



1 :     Starsky and Thrutch 10m 16trad
 Wide bulging crack on lower cliff, 10m left of access gully to the left side of Flame Wall.
FA: Anita Sharma & Robin Holmes - 2005-02-20
    Tantalus Released     IMGIMG 20m 29sport
7 bolts
 Start 20m left of The Thin Red Line near the left edge of Flame Wall. Dyno sideways to gain the hanging groove. Continue up the bulging face to a diabolical crux up high. Beware the pumpy finish.

FA: Ingvar Lidman - 2008-06-11
2 :     The Thin Red Line     IMGIMG 20m 29mixed
 Excellent orange face with lots of tiny crimpers and several FHs. Bring wallnuts to size 7 to supplement the existing FHs. More bolts may be added later.

FA: Equipped by Steve Chapman 2005 FFA Ingvar Lidman - 2008-04-00
3 :     Slow Burn     IMGIMG 18m 23mixed
3 bolts
 A sustained face, neglected for several months after bolting.
The 4m direct start to the ledge has been done but awaits a bolt. In the meantime, start 4m further left beneath The Thin Red Line, where a good wire protects the moves to the ledge.
Move 4m R on ledge, then climb the face 3m L of the thin crack (Edge Burner), past 3FH, med-large wires and a #1.75Fr. The high DRB anchor can be accessed from above.
FA: Will Monks, Malcolm Matheson, Gareth Llewellin, Neil Monteith - 2005-09-18
4 :     Edge Burner     IMGIMG 20m 23mixed
4 bolts
 Excellent climbing, bomber protection.
Up Out of Control to 4th FH. Ooze 3m left to horn. Directly up lovely crack and over roof on trad gear. Continue up to Double RB lower off on high ledge. First ascent was a ground up onsight.
FA: Steve Chapman & Robin Holmes - 2005-03-05
5 :     Out of Control     IMGIMG 24m 24sport
 Impressive roof climb in a truly spectacular setting.
Start from back of block (FH) at end of pinnacle.
Up corner to ledge. Step R then up bulges to rest. Step up to FH then monkey R on unexpected buckets. Turn the roof at scoop. Swing R to finish up white water wash then slightly L to RB lower off (note: near 50m lower off to top of pinnacle - tie rope end to belay FH).
FA: Robin Holmes & Steve Chapman - 2005-02-20
6 :     Flaming Lips     IMGIMG 27m 26sport
8 bolts
 Big time cave climbing up right side of the orange wave.
Scramble in from the left side onto belay ledge 15m from the ground. Belay off single FH.
Head up and right easily for 8m to small ledge and UB. Take a breath and start climbing up and out past eight bolts in incredible positions to finish in small cave. Hard moves are at third and sixth bolts. Good foot jams, knee bars and leg slots can be found for recovery all the way up. Use a 60m rope for lower-off and tie a knot in the end!
FA: Neil Monteith, Mike File & Kent Paterson - 2005-03-13

Copyright, ACA, 2012