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The Australian Route Register


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The Frontline


Crag:NSW
  - 05 Sydney Metropolitan Region
    - 07. North West (incl. The Hills District)
      - The Balkans [bouldering]
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:The Frontline was the first area discovered and developed in the Balkans. It is the biggest area with about 150 individual problems ranging from V0- to V11. There are excellent problems of all grades and styles. These cliffs and boulders are generally west and south facing and receive plenty of afternoon sun so they are perfect for cold winter afternoons and hot summer mornings. In summer they can get very hot. The rock is fast drying and clean but beware of the crimps, some have broken with “interesting” consequences. Learn to pull gently and evenly on the holds and tread very carefully.
Location:Referring to the location map park 50m into Larra Cr. just off Mill Dr. North Rocks next to the Bush-Fire Brigade trailer. Walk down the chained-off driveway, saying hello to all the local barking dogs, and turn left when you hit the grass at the bottom. About 30m along there is a well worn path down the hill with a small creek on your right, follow this path for about 50m. When you hit the cliff-line turn left and scramble down wherever you please, this is the Frontline area (left side). Alternatively, from the Trenches, go down the hill, cross the creek and then back up the hill. Make sure you stick to the established paths!
Rock:   Walk:   <5 mins
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:secretary


Issues

Routes

AA1 :     The Low Side V5
 Out the left side of the roof and up the face.
Sit
FA: Rob Saunders
AA2 :     The Bright Side V5
 Out the right side of the roof and up the face.
Sit
FA: Rob Saunders
AA3 :     The Upside     IMG V1
 Start behind log and up cool scoops to top out left.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
AA4 :     
The Downside     IMGIMG
V0
 Up water runnels. Gorgeous.
FA: Tim O’Neill
AA6 :     unamed V0
 Straight up wall climbing little roof to start.
FA: Tim O’Neill
AA6 :     Lichen or Not     IMG V5
 Traverse out right up the lip to finish up AD5.
Sit
FA: Rob Saunders
AA7 :     Hollow Mountain Dreaming     IMGIMGIMG V7
 Start on good hold on the left side of the corner and head left out the roof.
Sit
FA: Rob Saunders
AA8 :     7th Day Ascentists     IMGIMGIMG V9
 Start 1m right of AD5 and go out right side of roof not using any holds of AD5.
Sit
FA: Adam Griffiths
AA9 :     Untouched V0
AA10 :     Untouched V0
 Up the shallow crack.
AA11 :     The Right Side     IMGIMG V6
 Jump to the top and mantle away.
Sit
FA: Adam Griffiths
AA12 :     The Far Side     IMG V4
 Stretch up and right and mantle away.
Sit
FA: Rob Saunders
A1 :     Frontrow V0
 Up over bulge on big holds.
FA: Rob Saunders
A2 :     Bangers     IMG V0
 Straight up knobs just left of the tree branch on top.
FA: Tim O’Neill
A3 :     M.A.S.H     IMG V0
 Start in the bottom of the little flared crack and go up diagonally left under tree branch.
FA: Rob Saunders
A4 :     Tanks a lot V3
 Up over sloping bulge.
FA: Tim O’Neill
A5 :     Point of View     IMG V0
 Up layaway arete.
FA: Rob Saunders
A6 :     
Choppers     IMGIMG
V1
 Start 1m right of A5 and go straight up.
FA: Rob Saunders
A7 :     unamed V1
 Up right sloping undercling and over little roof.
FA: Tim O’Neill
A8 :     unamed V0
 Straight up slab and through little roof.
FA: Tim O’Neill
A9 :     Meltdown V2
 Crawl in behind the tree then up overhanging face.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
A10 :     Untouched V0
 Start on crimp, into break, up right, then through the tree.
A11 :     Hira’s Problem V0
 Start on knob and gaston, to'better' hold then top just right of tree.
A12 :     
Milo on the rocks
V3
 Start on broken horizontal ledge (ie. not the boulder) and stay on the left of the crack.
FA: Tim O’Neill
A13 :     
Revelations     IMG
V3
 THE fist jam crack. Avoid using any of the face holds for some added fun.
FA: Rob Saunders
A14 :     Untouched V0
 Start on knobs low down then up through horizontal rails to top.
A15 :     Untouched V0
 Reach across to good hold from rock, 1, 2, 3 and you’re on top.
A16 :     Untouched V0
 Stay just left of the ramp on small crimps.
A17 :     unamed V0
 Pull over the bulge and walk to the top.
FA: Tim O’Neill
A18 :     unamed V5
 The awkward, sandy, unpleasant arete.
Sit
FA: Adrian Whittaker
A19 :     Underground movement     IMGIMG V3
 Start on crimps, then go left to the pocket and jump to the top.
Sit
FA: Jason Whitton
A20 :     unamed V0
 Tough moves down low to a slopey top-out?
B1 :     Sherman Tank     IMG V0
 Easily up the layaway arete.
FA: Tim O’Neill
B2 :     unamed V1
 Unexciting face climbing.
FA: Rob Saunders
B3 :     unamed V1
 Climb up under overhanging boulder and then up its face to top.
FA: Tim O’Neill
B4 :     Bomb Shelter V0
 Unexciting face climbing.
FA: Rob Saunders
C1 :     
You go slopia
V2
 Up left sloping ramp.
FA: Rob Saunders
C2 :     You go slow     IMG V1
 Mantle on the slopers and then balance to the top.
FA: Tim O’Neill
C3 :     unamed V2
 Hard start to an easy finish.
FA: Tim O’Neill
C4 :     unamed V4
 Hard slab.
FA: Tim O’Neill
C5 :     The Pincer Movement     IMGIMG V5
 Pinch, squeeze and wiggle your way up this knife edge arete.
Sit
FA: Saxon Johns
C6 :     The Corridor     IMGIMG V0
 Desperate rounded sidepull climbing in the alley up the face.
C7 :     Full Metal Jacket     IMGIMG V8
 Rounded bulge catching the sidepull/slot up right then the big knob.
Sit
FA: Rob Saunders
C8 :     Half Metal Jacket     IMGIMG V5
 Rounded bulge catching the sidepulls then lunge to the knob with your left.
Sit
FA: Adam Griffiths
C9 :     Quarter Metal Jacket     IMGIMG V5
 Rounded bulge catching the sidepulls then lunge to the knob with your right.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
C10 :     The Bilge V4
 Start on flake then pocket and up to slot and mantle over.
Sit
FA: Will Holbrook
D1 :     Missile silo V4
 One hard move on small crimps.
FA: Tim O’Neill
D2 :     unamed V0
 Easy moves up scoops.
FA: Tim O’Neill
D3 :     unamed V0
 Easy moves up scoops.
FA: Tim O’Neill
D4 :     unamed     IMG V1
 Lovely rock and easy climbing.
FA: Peter Hemphill
E1 :     Eastern Bloc Arete     IMGIMGIMG V1
 Up the overhanging arete on jugs and slopers.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
E2 :     
Blame us Scots     IMGIMG
V6
 From break to slopers on top and over without any of the holds on E1 or E3.
FA: Adam Griffiths
E3 :     
Mission Impossible     IMG
V3
 Up the crack finishing left. Quite a sting in its tail unless you’re tall.
FA: Jason Whitton
E4 :     Coffee Anann V3
 Quality moves from pocket on E5 to little pocket up right then delicately up and over.
FA: Rob Saunders
E5 :     Crewcut     IMGIMG V1
 Start on pocket and then go up left and top out around ramp.
FA: Tim O’Neill
E5a :     Crewcut (sit start)     IMG V4
 Sit start on right side of arete then up to pocket to join the much nicer E5.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
E6 :     Swiss Cheese Mind     IMG V7
 Start up E5 and finish up E7.
Sit
FA: Saxon Johns
E7 :     Dog tags     IMG V5
 Not quite a sit start but close. Up the left side of the rounded arete on crimps.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
E8 :     unamed V3
 Standing start from one side pull to another to the top.
FA: Jason Whitton
E9 :     unamed V4
 Long move off low undercling pocket to sloper to crimp to top.
Sit
FA: Matt Wilder
E9a :     A tonic for the troops     IMG V6
 Start up E10 stay low and finish up E8.
Sit
FA: Simon Alsop
E10 :     unamed     IMG V5
 Tough first move up right to jug and an easier finish.
Sit
FA: Jason Whitton
E11 :     unamed V3
 Sit
FA: Rob Saunders
E12 :     Border Patrol     IMGIMG V3
 Circumnavigate the entire eastern bloc! Start on the slab then down E1, across the bottom of E2 and up E3, then lip traverse across the top of E4 to E11 back to the slab and finish up E1!
FA: Tim O’Neill
E13 :     Violent Crumble V3
 Out jugs to an excellent mantle.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
E14 :     Dynamite     IMG V9
 Out sharp pockets in the roof to desperate mantle staying left of E13. Watch out for exploding holds …
Sit
FA: Matt Wilder/Saxon Johns
F1 :     unamed V2
 Reach high to crimps then through crimps to top.
FA: Tim O’Neill
F2 :     
unamed
V3
 Start on crimps (and not boulder!), powerful onto jug then easy but reachy up left or right of tree.
FA: Tim O’Neill
F3 :     
Toe to Toe     IMGIMGIMG
V4
 Start with your left hand in one pocket and your right foot in the other. After the first move do some funky footwork then straight up left of the scoop.
FA: Tim O’Neill
F3a :     
Ben’s Extension to Toe to Toe     IMGIMG
V8
 Sit start with your left hand in the lowest pocket and crank up right to the slot and then back left to join F3. For the tall!
Sit
FA: Ben Lowe
F4 :     
Woolly Jumper     IMG
V10
 Paste your feet on and dyno to slot then up through scoop.
FA: Tim O’Neill
F5 :     Woolly Crimper V0
 F4 via the sharp crimp statically.
F6 :     unamed     IMGIMG V1
 Traverse right as far as you can go ...
FA: Rob Saunders
F7 :     
Milo and Kofi     IMGIMGIMG
V6
 Off break through crimps and pinch then jump to sidepull up right and delicately to top. Sit start has been done but it’s not worth it.
FA: Tim O’Neill
F8 :     
Eating Sheep     IMG
V7
 Start up F7 and finish up F4. Un-repeated since a hold has broken.
FA: Phil Staples
F9 :     A2 is not a tank     IMG V5
 Jump from one break to the next and traverse left as far as you like. The grade is the number of inches you are under 6’7' times by 2/3.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
F10 :     Daoism V0
 Tough move through rounded pinch/layaway dish to slot then up slab.
F10a :     The Pendulum     IMG V2
 Traverse either way between the starts of F9 and F11.
Sit
FA: Adam Griffiths
F11 :     
Paratroopin’     IMGIMG
V7
 Traverse right out lip of cave to tough mantle then finish up easy slab.
FA: Rob Saunders
F12 :     
American Siege     IMG
V9
 Tough move up to sidepull, then to mono and'better' holds, then up slab.
FA: Matt Wilder
F13 :     
Pockets of Resistance     IMGIMG
V7
 Start matched in the back pocket, across the roof, pull the lip and up the difficult slab.
FA: Rob Saunders
F14 :     
unamed
V3
 Start on the sloper above the lip of the cave then finish up the slab.
FA: Gordon Low
F15 :     
Friendly Fire
V4
 Mantle into the bottom of corridor then delicately straight up.
FA: Tim O’Neill
F16 :     unamed     IMG V2
 Up easy slab after huge mantle down low.
FA: Tim O’Neill
F17 :     unamed V0
 A pleasant wall.
FA: Tim O’Neill
F17a :     unamed     IMG V1
 Lay-away arete with feet on the slab.
FA: Tim O’Neill
F18 :     War paint     IMG V1
 Smear your way up this.
FA: Tim O’Neill
F19 :     Foot soldier     IMGIMG V0
 Tip toe up short right and then left trending staircases with nothing touching the rock but your feet.
FA: (FA: Tim O’Neill)
F20 :     unamed V0
 A lovely slab. Try it hands free and backwards etc …
FA: Tim O’Neill
F21 :     unamed V1
 Mantle lovely holds on the arete behind the bush.
FA: Tim O’Neill
F22 :     unamed V5
 Lunge from triangular crimp to sloper and then top.
FA: Pete Balint
H1 :     unamed V0
 Climb up right of the descent ramp
FA: Tim O’Neill
H2 :     unamed V1
 Slab.
FA: Simon Alsop
H3 :     unamed V1
 Reach up high to two pockets and then up.
FA: Tim O’Neill
H4 :     Leap of Faith     IMG V4
 Off undercling to the two slopers then a leap of faith to the ledge.
FA: Adam Griffiths
H5 :     unamed V2
 Long undercling move to the ledge.
FA: Tim O’Neill
H6 :     unamed V3
 Tough start to easier finish.
FA: Tim O’Neill
H7 :     unamed V1
 Pleasant slab climbing in the corridor.
FA: Tim O’Neill
I1 :     unamed V2
 Start low and mantle without obvious arete then delicately up ramp.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
I2 :     
Pump Action     IMG
V3
 Start in the big pocket and dyno to top of arete to jug. Then carefully up ramp.
FA: Tim O’Neill
I3 :     
Ascension Day     IMG
V6
 Start on pockets (use a cheat stone if you have to) then tough around bulge skipping the jugs out right.
FA: Matt Wilder
I4 :     
El Kooko     IMG
V9
 Start low and lunge to starting pockets of I3 then finish up straight up jugs.
Sit
FA: Paul Westwood
I5 :     Boogie Knights     IMGIMG V8
 Start up I6 and finish up I3 via a big gaston out left to the pockets.
Sit
FA: Matt Wilder
I6 :     Sloper-dan Milosevic     IMGIMGIMG V5
 Start low and move through beautiful slopers to roof and finish up jugs. The best problem in the Balkans?
Sit
FA: Rob Saunders
I7 :     
Shell Shocked     IMGIMG
V3
 Mantle into left undercling then all the way to the rail then over.
FA: Tim O’Neill
I7a :     
Shell Shocked (sit start)     IMG
V4
 Not worth the extra effort!
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
I8 :     Shoaib Akhtar     IMGIMG V5
 You have to go really fast for this one, like the Pakistani bowler! Mantle to left crimp and leap to top, then over.
FA: Tim O’Neill
I8a :     Shoaib Akhtar (sit start)     IMG V6
 Not worth the extra effort!
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
I9 :     Snakebite V4
 Pinch the plate, paste your feet and reach around bulge to crimp to join I10.
FA: Matt Wilder
I10 :     Johnny Dawes problem     IMG V3
 Jump start to jug then over.
FA: Adam Griffiths
I11 :     Diplomatic Solution     IMGIMG V2
 There is lots of sitting on your arse for this one! Sit down for the first jug, then up, have a seat for the next move, up again and over … sterling!
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
I12 :     unamed V5
 Long first move to crimper near the lip and then mantle … watch your back!
Sit
FA: Adam Griffiths
I13 :     Diplomatic Immunity     IMG V5
 Start low on jugs then into the seam, contort yourself (unless short) then up and left to the finishing jug.
Sit
FA: Rob Saunders
I14 :     Flub Dubb     IMG V6
 Long move to the shallow left pocket then to jug and over.
FA: Pete Balint
I15 :     The Invisible Gerka V8
 Up via sharp crimps to a tiny pocket and over.
FA: Rob Saunders
J1 :     unamed V2
 Up rounded slab.
FA: Tim O’Neill
J2 :     Hot Milo     IMG V3
 Lunge start then over bulge with no footholds.
FA: Tim O’Neill
J3 :     unamed V3
 Big move to pocket then straight up.
FA: Gordon Low
J4 :     unamed V3
 Tricky start to easy finish.
FA: Tim O’Neill
K1 :     Untouched V0
K2 :     unamed V0
 Easy face.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
K3 :     Untouched V0
 Overhanging rounded bulge.
K4 :     unamed V0
 Up left ramp.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
K5 :     
Armistice Day     IMGIMG
V5
 Up orange face on loose crimps to join K6.
FA: Rob Saunders
K6 :     Project V0
 Up dihedral to scary top-out.
K7 :     
unamed     IMG
V4
 Angular arete and face.
FA: Adam Griffiths
K8 :     
unamed
V2
 Up left sloping ramp to arete then straight up.
FA: Tim O’Neill
K9 :     
unamed
V2
 Straight up right without arete.
FA: Tim O’Neill
L1 :     unamed V1
 Delicately up flake to sandy top out.
FA: Tim O’Neill
L2 :     
unamed
V1
 Scary mantle.
FA: Adam Griffiths
M1 :     Little Jon Jon     IMG V6
 Start up M2 but go left around bulge, watch your back.
Sit
FA: Dave Jones
M2 :     Who killed the Kennedys     IMGIMG V6
 Out the middle of the roof finishing left over the rounded lip.
Sit
FA: Rob Saunders
M3 :     The Vineyard     IMG V10
 Levitate off the underclings to the jug. No crash-pad cheating now!
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
M4 :     Little Buddha     IMG V5
 Hug your way up this overhanging block.
Sit
FA: Matt Wilder
N1 :     unamed V1
 Easy slab.
FA: Tim O’Neill
N2 :     
unamed
V1
 Delicately up face on good holds.
FA: Tim O’Neill
N3 :     unamed V1
 Up just left of cave.
FA: Tim O’Neill
O1 :     Spuz V0
 A town in Montenegro but this is what you’ll do if you fail on this one. Easy fun mantle.
FA: Ben Christian
O2 :     Out on a Lim     IMG V1
 A river in Montenegro, mantle over little roof without getting your feet wet.
FA: Rob Saunders
O3 :     Opposition in Exile     IMGIMGIMG V2
 Up beautiful holds to a fun topout up ramp.
FA: Tim O’Neill
O4 :     
Peace     IMG
V4
 It helps to be 6’4' for this one! Up good holds to scary finish.
FA: Ben Christian
O4a :     
Peace Plus     IMG
V3
 1m to the right of O4 from undercling to layaway to good hold and easier top.
FA: Chris Perry
O5 :     Black Mountain V0
 Up vertical seam underneath tree branches.
FA: Rob Saunders
P1 :     Omemsahi Bart     IMGIMG V5
 Start up P2 then traverse the wall from right to left on the lovely rounded holds below the lip.
Sit
FA: Matt Wilder
P2 :     Here comes the Hercules     IMG V4
 Up to breaks then long throw to one of the three knobs and tough mantle.
Sit
FA: Rob Saunders
P2a :     Rob’s Mantle     IMG V4
 Slap to crimps and then long move to rounded hold and press it out.
Sit
FA: Rob Saunders
P3 :     Mace-dome-ia     IMGIMG V5
 Slap to rounded hold then jug and then long move to rounded dome and over.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
P4 :     Here comes the submarine V5
 Up left a little to small undercling then mantle to big rounded knob and over.
Sit
FA: Rob Saunders
P5 :     Untouched V0
P6 :     unamed V2
 Good hold to pinch undercling, get your feet up and mantle.
Sit
FA: Adam Griffiths
P7 :     Untouched V0
P8 :     unamed V1
 Tough start to an easing top.
FA: Gordon Low
P9 :     Battle of the skivvies V5
 From undercling stay left of P10.
Sit
FA: Neil Wallace
P10 :     
Battle of the shirts     IMGIMGIMG
V4
 Climb the left side of the'fish' arete using anything to a tricky top.
Sit
FA: Gordon Low
P11 :     Battle of the shorts V6
 Up to beautiful pockets with your left to slot and over.
Sit
FA: Rob Saunders
P12 :     Battle of the bonds     IMGIMG V7
 Around roof on slopers staying right of P10 and P11.
Sit
FA: Adam Griffiths
Q1 :     unamed V1
 Easily up the face.
FA: Ange Conolly
Q2 :     unamed V0
 Easily up on jugs.
FA: Tim O’Neill
Q3 :     unamed V2
 Grovely piece of work.
FA: Tim O’Neill
Q4 :     unamed V1
 Needs cleaning.
FA: Tim O’Neill
Q5 :     unamed V1
 Just left of tree.
FA: Tim O’Neill
Q6 :     National Pride     IMG V2
 Straight up face between the two trees.
FA: Rob Saunders
Q7 :     Lay down your arms     IMG V3
 Start both hands on lowest jug, then up left to jug then straight up just right of tree.
Sit
FA: Rob Saunders
Q8 :     The arms race     IMG V5
 Same start as Q7 then big dyno right to break then up through scoop.
Sit
FA: Dave Allen
Q9 :     If the thong fits V9
 Same starting hold as Q7 (the jug only) but left to sharp triangular crimp and right to rounded crimp then lunge out right to finish up Q15.
Sit
FA: Rob Saunders
Q9a :     Mann Killer V8
 Same starting hold as Q7 (the jug only) but right to sharp crimp to the right of the rounded crimp and left to finish up Q7.
Sit
FA: Dave Kellermann
Q10 :     If the shoe fits     IMGIMGIMG V8
 Same starting hold as Q7 (both hands on the jug) but go right to sloper then straight up to the rounded crimp with left hand, lunge to break without leaving a foot behind, traverse across and finish up Business as Usual.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
Q11 :     Rocket Pants     IMG V3
 Jump to the pocket and mantle around the bulge.
FA: Adam Griffiths
Q11a :     Rocket Man     IMGIMG V10
 Rocket Pants standing start. From the big break on If the shoe fits power out to the pocket and finish up Rocket Pants.
FA: Fred Nicole
Q12 :     L’homme obu     IMGIMGIMG V11
 Rocket Man sit start. Start up If the shoe fits and finish up Rocket Man.
Sit
FA: Fred Nicole
Q13 :     If the glove fits     IMG V3
 From crimps around bulge to improving holds and over.
FA: Tim O’Neill
Q13a :     Low Rider V9
 Sit start for super reach/dyno around bulge and finish up If the glove fits.
Sit
FA: James Alexander
Q14 :     unamed V3
 From sloper and crimp to break then up and left to top.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
Q15 :     
Business as Usual     IMGIMG
V3
 Hard first move to lovely rounded holds and scary top-out.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
Q16 :     unamed     IMG V2
 Start on the crimp and stay right of Business as Usual.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
R1 :     unamed V0
 Chossy breaks to easy top.
FA: Tim O’Neill
R2 :     unamed V0
 Another rainy day ascent.
FA: Tim O’Neill
R3 :     unamed V2
 Start lying down in scoop and go straight up.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
R4 :     unamed V1
 Long move to horizontal jug then over via lovely flat dish and jug out left.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
R5 :     unamed     IMG V2
 Around lip to ledge then slopers and tough mantle.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
R6 :     unamed V0
 Up jugs to protruding plates and mantle over.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
R7 :     unamed V0
 Up around the prow.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
S1 :     unamed V0
 Balance your way up the slopes.
FA: Tim O’Neill
S2 :     unamed V0
 Untouched
S3 :     The Beach     IMG V7
 Double undercling start, around bulge to crimps then bust to jugs.
Sit
FA: Matt Wilder
S4 :     Shell be left     IMG V3
 Finish straight up.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
S5 :     She’ll be right     IMG V2
 Finish right.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
T1 :     unamed V0
 Lovely slots to an easy top out.
FA: Tim O’Neill
T2 :     (Have a) Proper-gander     IMG V2
 You’d better scope out the top of this one first! Up horizontal breaks to lovely rounded holds on top.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
T3 :     unamed V0
 Untouched
T4 :     unamed V0
 Untouched
T5 :     
Crossfire
V3
 Don’t get crossed up on this one. Long first moves to a tough mantle next to the boulder.
FA: Tim O’Neill
T6 :     unamed V0
 Untouched
T7 :     unamed V0
 Untouched
U1 :     unamed V3
 Long first move to a hard mantle.
Sit
FA: Tim O’Neill
U2 :     unamed V0
 Easy stuff on friendly holds.
FA: Tim O’Neill

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Copyright, ACA, 2012