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The Australian Route Register

Hocus Pocus Area


Crag:NSW
  - 08 Central Tablelands (inc. The Blue Mountains)
    - 08. Mount Victoria (incl. Ikara, Boronia Pt, Piddington, Corroboree, Zig Zag, etc)
      - 03. Mt. Piddington (incl. Pindari)
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:If you do a route which tops out in this area, the quickest descent is the rap chains above Curtain Call. This involves a 30m abseil, a 60m rope is preferred but one 50m rope will suffice if you are ready for an easy downclimb and don't go off the ends of the rope! If you are trying to access this abseil anchor from above, take EXTREME CARE. As of November 2011, a fixed rope has been installed to assist the downclimb to the rap anchor. If the fixed rope is not there (the ethics police often remove it (idiots)), be aware that to reach the rap anchor involves a very exposed 20m downclimb (grade 2?), and any fall would almost certainly end on the ground 40m below. Consider roping up for this downclimb, or even hiking back along the top towards Horne's Point for a safer descent.
Rock:   Walk:   15-30 mins
Wet Weather:Damp
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:mjw


Issues

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Routes

1 :     Imbecile 52m 11mixed
 Approximately 25m to the left of Idiot. Left side of the buttress.
FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall - 1967-00-00
P1(9m, 11)Easy to tree.
P2(27m, 11)Up, mantle, right and up to ledge and tree.
P3(16m, 11)Left and up.
2 :     Infidel 52m 16trad
 Corner 5m left again.
FA: J.Ewbank,R.Reynolds - 1967-00-00
P1(27m, 16)Corner, roof and wall to rest. Wall and ramp.
P2(25m, 12)Up.
3 :     No Static 45m 15mixed
 7m left again. Right of arete.
FA: I.Rath,N.Mahunt,V.Burke - 1986-00-00
4 :     Hocus Pocus     IMGIMG 49m 8mixed
15 bolts
Walk-off
 The first route at Mt Piddington, and still one of the best.
17m left of Infidel.
Follow bolts!
FA: K.Westren,Hailstone - 1964-00-00
5 :     Ra 44m 13mixed
 As for HP to top of initial slab. Over bulge, up slab to HP.
FA: H.Luxford - 1977-00-00
6 :     El Dingle 54m 14mixed
 3m left of HP.
FA: J.Lawrence,J.Woods - 1965-00-00
P1(24m, 14)Slab, then left crossing CC to ledge then thin wall.
P2(30m, 14)Left into gully. Has a direct finish. Trend right.
7 :     
Slab Right of Withdrawal
48m 19mixed
 As for ED. Follow bolts.
FA: Unknown
8 :     
Withdrawal
48m 20mixed
 As for HP.
Easy slab, slight corner, right onto slab. Up.
FA: M.Law,G.Harrison - 1979-00-00
9 :     Riding Shotgun 30m 21sport
 1m left of ED.
FA: A.Penney,L.Closs,M.Stacey - 1987-00-00
10 :     Curtain Call 49m 18trad
 Crack left of RS.
FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall - 1967-00-00
11 :     Bumbly Bites Back 30m 19sport
 3m left of CC.
FA: C.Sloss - 1987-00-00
12 :     El Bungle 17m 18mixed
 5m left of CC.
FA: A.Penney - 1978-00-00
13 :     
Beginners Steps
52m 21mixed
 Scary!
9m left of El Bungle. Dirty crack.
FA: Law,Grey,Smoothy - 1979-00-00
P1(30m, 16)Easy to steep wall, right to block.
P2(22m, 21)Wall left of arete, then around arete and up.
14 :     The Second Last Act 52m 22 M2mixed
 As for BS.
FA: J.Ewbank,J.Moore,J.Worrall - 1966-00-00
15 :     
Quits     IMG
65m 20mixed
 From BS anchor 1. Leftwards.
FA: M.Law - 1978-00-00
16 :     
Stage Struck
50m 23 M1mixed
 As for TSLA.
FA: S.Moon,G.Bradbury - 1985-00-00
17 :     
Wrapt
50m 23mixed
 5m left of TSLA.
FA: M.Law - 1984-00-00
18 :     Sidetracks 50m 24mixed
 As for Solomon for most of 1st pitch. Right to belay on arete. take care! Up the arete joining Quits. Finish up Q.
FA: W.Baird - 1981-00-00
19 :     Solomon     IMGIMGIMG 51m 20trad
4 bolts
Rap-anchor
 There's 1 bolt at the first belay and 4 on the 2nd pitch - so take brackets if you don't know how to use cams.
Start approx 28m left of Quits beneath major right-angled corner.
FA: (J.Ewbank,A.Campbell 1965) FFA:J.Friend - 1973-00-00
P1(20m, 15)Corner to belay on slab beneath main corner.
P2(31m, 20, 4 bolts)Stunning orange corner then left around roof. Chossy easy corner above.
20 :     Tipster     IMG 45m 22mixed
 As for S, past diagonal crack (Gemini) on left. Step left and up. Slight left and up. About 5m left of the arete.
FA: W.Baird - 1982-00-00
21 :     Gemini     IMGIMG 51m 19trad
 Nowadays the leader can clean their own gear off pitch 1 by finishing at the anchors of Skinless Chickens, on the arete.
Start as for Solomon.
FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall - 1966-00-00
P1(25m, 19)Up Solomon's corner for 8m then take the left diagonal crack to blocks. DRB rap anchor.
P2(26m, 19)Often not bothered with. Left up the blocks, right to arete. Up.
22 :     Skinless Chicken     IMGIMG 26m 21sport
9 bolts
Rap-anchor
 Follow 9 rings up an arete you wish wouldn't stop.
left of Gemini, right side of arete
Needs a strong left arm.
2006-00-00
FFA: M Law - 2005-11-30
23 :     Orion 25m 25mixed
Walk-off
 The face left of Solomon pitch 2 and right of Tipster with a few old carrots. Why the route description is never put between those routes is anyone's guess.
Start as for Solomon.
FA: M.Baker - 1989-00-00
24 :     Flight Line     IMG 54m 22mixed
 6m left of S. Left of the arete to arete. Up.
FA: W.Baird - 1982-00-00
25 :     Mossy Reactions     IMG 50m 24mixed
 1m right of Genesis. Bolts.
FA: J.Smoothy,M.Law - 1989-00-00
26 :     
Genesis     IMGIMG
58m 16trad
Rap-anchor
 Best option is to link this into Cardiac Arete for a real classic.
Twin cracks.
FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall - 1966-00-00
27 :     Cardiac Arete     IMGIMG 38m 17mixed
Rap-anchor
 Best option is to start up Genesis and finish up this route.
Left of Genesis at short wide crack.
FA: D.Fletcher,W.Davenport - 1970-00-00
P1(20m, 17)Crack, arete to Genesis belay.
P2(18m, 17)Arete with bolts.
28 :     Fibrillation 40m 19mixed
 Corner directly under CA.
FA: W.Williams,G.Wurth - 1986-00-00
29 :     Kokoda Trail 35m 11trad
 Short chimney and gully to top.
30 :     
Cheese 'n' Chalk
28m 16mixed
 6m left of KT.
FA: M.Law,J.Smoothy - 1978-00-00
31 :     
Pkea
33m 13trad
 As for CnC. Trees, gully etc.
FA: W.Williams,I.Peterson - 1971-00-00
32 :     Absolutely Curtains 22m 18mixed
 Thin corner.
FA: G.Child - 1978-00-00
33 :     Fat Freddy 15m 13mixed
 8m left of AC.
FA: G.Weigand,B.Jenkins - 1980-00-00
34 :     Zot 45m 19mixed
 2m left of Pkea.
FA: G.Weigand - 1980-00-00
35 :     
Babylon
40m 10trad
 9m left of Z. Scrubby chimney.
FA: W.Kilham,B.Smith - 1964-00-00
36 :     Evans 52m 13mixed
 11m left of B.
FA: A.Campbell,B.Osbourne,J.Pickard - 1966-00-00
37 :     
The Coffin Climb
64m 11trad
 Thin chimney in corner left of E. 3 pitches. Take Care!
FA: J.Ewbank,D.Moss - 1966-00-00
38 :     The Sexton 55m 16mixed
 5m left again. 2 pitches.
FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall - 1966-00-00
39 :     The End 55m 18mixed
 48m left of Sexton. Scrubby corner.
FA: J.Ewbank,C.Monteath - 1970-00-00
40 :     The Last Act 70m 17 M2mixed
 Small corner right of Encore.
FA: J.Ewbank,P.Giles,V.Kennedy - 1969-00-00
41 :     
Applause
40m 20mixed
FA: G.Bradbury - 1983-00-00
42 :     
Encore
60m 18mixed
 4m left of TLA. Corner.3 pitches.
FA: J.Ewbank,V.Kennedy - 1968-00-00
43 :     One Up for the Wogs     IMG 70m 23mixed
 
Through low roof with piton and gear to ledge.
Up and left into the line and up to chimney then through and right to the top

Was originally 17 M5 . . .
Roofs 10 m before the waterfall.
FA: J.Ewbank, B.Allen - 1969-00-00
FFA: Macciza, 23 M0, then free by one of the Cosseys
44 :     The Masterpiece.??m20 M4mixed
 This route will take you back to the Hornes Point descent gully!
Approximately 850m of sideways climbing.
FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall - 1967-00-00

Recent Ascents

Nick Clow Hocus Pocusonsight2010-05-22
bdubya Hocus Pocusget lots of sun, nice and airyfree82010-04-17
aarondP1Solomononsight2010-03-27
aarondP2Solomonsecond (clean)2010-03-27
aarondP1Geminisecond (clean)2010-03-27
aarond Genesisonsight2010-03-27
bbear Hocus Pocusfree2010-02-07
bbear Fat Freddyfree2010-02-07
bbear Babylonfree2010-02-07
Nick ClowP1Geminifree2010-02-01
OlbertP1Solomonsecond (clean)2009-11-25
daaaveP1Solomonfree2009-11-25
OlbertP2SolomonI think I made it harder then it needed to be by attempting to jam-laybackonsight202009-11-25
OlbertP1GeminiNice fist jam!second (clean)192009-11-25
daaaveP1Geminionsight2009-11-25
Nick Clow Riding Shotgunonsight2009-10-08
Nick Clow Curtain Callonsight2009-10-08
Nick Clow Bumbly Bites Backonsight2009-10-08
Nick ClowP1Solomonfree2009-10-08
Nick ClowP2Cardiac Areteonsight2009-10-08
dfinnecy Rafreeyuk!2009-04-04
dfinnecyP1Solomonbeautiful linefree2009-04-04
dfinnecyP2Solomonfree2009-04-04
dfinnecyP1Geminipity the crack isn't longer. Harder than Solomon!free192009-04-04

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