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The Australian Route Register

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Right Watchtower Face

  - Djurite (Mt. Arapiles)
    - 16. The Watchtower Areas
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:The best rock in this area - and indeed on the mountain.
Location:The big streaked and polished face, right of the Watchtower.
Rock:   Walk:   5-15 mins
Wet Weather:Seeps
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:secretary



    The Watchtower Crack     IMGIMGIMG 95m 16trad
3 bolts
 Fantastic climb.
Much of this climb remains in the shade until mid-afternoon so it can be feasible on a hot day. Running the first two pitches together can keep the belay in the shade until the top.
Despite the daunting appearance a mega-rack isn't required, but make sure you have a couple of bolt hangers and a #4 cam
FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, Ted Batty, Bob Bull - 1966-03-06
P1(25m, 12)Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge.
P2(20m, 14)Follow the main corner for a bit, then the left-hand line to a cosy cave.
P3(18m, 16, 2 bolts)Up 4 metres into chimney below roof (old bolt). Traverse out right and move up into corner and another old bolt. On up corner to small stance and two pitons. If you want some shade, traverse left to a cave on the arete.
P4(32m, 16, 1 bolts)Fairly sustained (FH) until past the overhang. Easily up slab.
    Skink     IMGIMGIMG 107m 18trad
 A technical, exhilirating route. A great contrast to its companion climb.
As for The Watchtower Crack.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore. Ann Pauligk and later Dave Neilson eliminated the two aids from crux pitch. - 1966-04-25
P1(25m, 12)Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge (first pitch of Watchtower Crack).
P2(40m, 18)Follow the main corner for a bit, then the left-hand line to a cave (second pitch of Watchtower Crack) and up to below the overhang. Traverse out right on fantastic horizontal break. Tricky moves gain sickle shaped line and move up to very small stance which has some good wires and is surprisingly comfortable. Don't be tempted by the piton of Gollum a few metres higher, you are much better off where you are.
P3(42m, 17)Follow the flake line, which eases towards the top.
Pumping Part II     IMG
88m 23trad
 This climb is very rarely done because of the seriousness of the first pitch, originally climbed as the second pitch of Pumping.
Start on the first belay of Watchtower Crack, after doing Pumping and not lowering off.
To further enhance the experience you could probably run the two pitches together with a 70 metre rope - that would be a trip.
FA: Pitch 1: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan. Pitch 2 ; Mark Moorhead and many more 1980. - 1979-11-23
P1(40m, 23)Start up easy corner, moving right into very thin corner. Up this corner, then right to break in roof. Climb boldly up wall above to end of Skink traverse. Go left to belay in Watchtower Crack. A very serious pitch.
P2(48m, 20)Move back right to the centre of The Skink traverse and climb straight up to join Gollum. Finish up Gollum. This pitch would be good in its own right but it is still quite serious.
    Salamander     IMGIMG 115m 14trad
 Slabs and awkward cracks provide a good outing.
Start as for The Watchtower Crack.
FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, Bob Bull - 1964-12-19
P1(25m, 12)Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge (as for pitch 1 of The Watchtower Crack).
P2(25m, 13)Up dark-coloured face heading slightly right to flake sweepin to right. Step right with difficulty onto long ledge leading right. Walk right to ring bolts. An awkward pitch.
P3(10m, 14)Move off right end of ledge and climb poorly protected face to next ledge (bolts and chain).
P4(25m, 14)Long flake on right with tricky finish to ledge.
P5(30m, 12)From right end of ledge, head up wall and finish just right of little gully.
Gollum     IMGIMG
55m 20trad
 Two interestin pitches that used to be thought very bold. But times change. Apparently gear can be found on the first pitch and Keith Egerton proved that even hexentrics in the horizontal breaks on the second pitch were adequate for 10 metre falls. The second pitch has also cleaned up enormously over the years.
Usually started by climbing The Confession as the first pitch. Belay on the ring-bolts at the top of pitch 1 of Auto Da Fe.
FA: Pitch 1 (Skink Connection) : Peter and Kevin Lindorff 29-05-1976. Pitch 2 : Andrew Thomson, Mike Stone - 1978-01-29
P1(25m, 18)up and through the overlaps. Traverse left above second overlap then up wall veering left into Skink.
P2(30m, 20)Go up to a peg on the left arete. Step left and weave your way up the wall until it eases. Continue up and finish direct over the final overlap.
175m 15 M1trad
3 bolts
 If anyone suggests doing this climb, make sure they second the dangerous abseil section.
If anyone is even considering extending the climb by girdling the left Watchtower face and linking the two, could you please shoot yourself beforehand and save the rest of us the bother.
This worthless girdle of the Right Watchtower begins by climbing to the end of the initial traverse of Skink. Now abseil from the ancient peg and traverse right to Salamander and thence to Mantle. Climb the second pitch of Mantle for 30 metres. Keep going right on mossy rock past a terrible bolt to Panzer's Terrace.
FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst - 1967-12-31
The Confession     IMG
45m 16trad
 Very good pitch. Make sure to take some tiny wires for the crux move.
Start 10 metres right of Watchtower Crack at a little block.
Note: this route is marked incorrectly in Simey and Glenn's '99 guide. It goes up the curvaceous white streak at 2/3 height, slightly right of where it is marked on page 230.
Up smooth orange streak to right-facing corner at about 37 metres. Up corner for a bit then step left onto arete for final, unprotected moves to ledg.
FA: Ed Neve, Keith Lockwood - 1975-05-24
    Smeagol     IMGIMG 110m 15trad
 Great climbing all the way. One of the best and most varied climbs of its grade on the Watchtower Faces. Individual pitch grades were not supplied - the overall grade is 15 but some pitches may be easier.
Start as for The Confession.
FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood. (alts) This climb has been about 30 years in the making, although the above party were first to do it in its entirety. - 2004-03-06
P1(45m, 15)Start up The Confession for 3-4m then verge left and up to tiny corner. Continue up left edge of the orange streak to a long right-facing flake/corner. Follow this to the big overhang which is turned on its right-hand edge. Once above the overhang, another corner leads direct to the left end of the Salamander ledge. Belay on the ring bolts as for Auto Da Fe.
P2(15m, 15)Up white streaks 2m left of the belay, over overlap, then right to chains. (Noddy first did this pitch around 1975 when putting up The Confession (before Skink Connection, Gollum et al went that way)).
P3(50m, 15)Climb Salamander's 4th pitch for about 4m to a good horizontal slot on the left wall. Traverse 2m left as soon as possible - with the horizontal slot at head level - any higher, and you miss the best climbing. Then climb direct up the black streak all the way to the top. Pull through summit overhang on the left. (Noddy did the upper part of this pitch on the FA of Brolga).
Watchtower :     
Auto De Fe     IMGIMGIMG
90m 21trad
 A fantastic climb with three fantastic pitches of very different styles.
At a hard move to large dish, avoidable
FA: Robin Miller, Kim Karrigan - 1982-09-26
P1(40m, 21)up slabs vaguely left, to eventually drift right through a fingery thin section to a belay ledge and rap station.
P2(20m, 21)head up from the left side of the belay ledge, through a serious section requiring RP's then through bulge and drift right to meet Skink,belay possible and best to avoid rope drag.
P3(30m, 21)from the belay in Skink head left and climb the wall and heel hook onto the slab and up to the top, small opposing wires can be used in the horizontals if no micro cams are available.
watchtower :     
Auto De Fear
40m 23trad
 Start up Auto De fe then at half way point with slopey ledges veer right till under rap station and up, continue up with no pro till 3m below belay ledge, find a small hole for a No 6 wallnut put in and turn 90 degrees to seat, then start breathing again!!!
As for Auto De Fe
FA: Muki Woods & toby - 2006-09-20
    Perentie 50m 21mixed
1 bolts
 Between 2nd pitches of Auto Da Fe and Fly Lichen Eagle.
Start from the rap anchors in the middle of the RWF (Salamander ledge).
Move L and up to BR (glue-in carrot) at the bulge. Run it out above with spaced protection staying between Skink and Fly Lichen Eagle or joining the final corner of Skink.
FA: Tim Day, Wade Stevens. - 1996-06-09
Fly Lichen Eagle     IMG
90m 20Unknown
 The superb second pitch has only two drawbacks. The first is the 10 metre runout above the big ledge to start the second pitch. The second is the possiblity of being knocked off that bit by an abseil rope from above.
This was an extremely bold, mossy lead before abseil route went in.
Start midway between Auto Da Fe and Gecko below the abseil line.
FA: Chris Baxter, Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Megens - 1983-06-13
P1(45m, 17)Unprotected to bulge at 6 metres. Continue up to the abseil chains, keeping religiously between the other climbs.
P2(45m, 20)From just left of chains go boldly up clean streak. At horizontal, step right to tricky moves leading to easier ground. Up to overlap, step left, up overhang and so to top abseil bolts.
    Gecko     IMG 48m 14trad
 A nice pitch that can be done as a direct start to Salamander or as a climb in its own right.

Up the deep crack about 20 metres right of Watchtower Crack. When the crack fades continue pretty much straight up to small grassy ledge at 36 metres. Follow a sloping orange slab to the chains at the third belay of Salamander.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, John Moore - 1965-08-07
    Monitor 95m 15trad
 The climb originally finished up Salamander but stepping left into Smeagol is much better.
Start midway between Gecko and Brolga.
P1(25m, 15)Straight up middle of slab, keeping roughly midway between Gecko and Brolga.
P3(40m, 15)Up wall then go diagonally left into fourth pitch of Salamander. Step left and go up Smeagol until you can find a belay.
P4(30m, 14)On to top
Brolga     IMGIMGIMG
115m 16trad
 Fantastic slab climbing up immaculate rock.
Middle of the face.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Andrew Bowman - 1975-06-00
P1(30m, 15)Climb to the ledge. Marginal gear.
P2(45m, 16)The best pitch. Amazing climbing on incredible rock. Blast straight up the wall heading for the tree ledge.
P3(40m, 14)A wandering pitch, starting from the left hand end of the ledge, and heading up and left.
    Thank Heavens For The Tasman 95m 16trad
 Plugs the gap between Brolga and The Mantle; a void not improved by the filling.
Start 3 metres right of Brolga.
FA: Chris and Sue Baxter - 1983-08-13
P1(35m, 16)Up easily and slightly right. Swing back left to below tree and belay just left of this.
P2(50m, 16)Middle of wall between Brolga and The Mantle, veering slightly left then right over slight bulge to easier ground.
P3(10m, -)Up.
    The Mantle     IMGIMG 87m 14trad
 More great slabbing.
Start 8 metres right of Brolga, directly below a thin crack that doesn't quite reach the ground.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore - 1965-04-24
P1(27m, 13)Go up on the left and move right into the weakness. Up weakness then face to ledge, just left of some swordgrass.
P2(46m, 14)Up the wall past a bolt for 30 metres to the bulge. Pass this and find a semi-hanging belay above. People used to belay below the bulge but the anchors were poor.
P3(14m, 6)Easily up.
    Lounge Lizard 95m 14trad
 The first of a couple of nondescript routes up the vast moss gardens of the right Watchtower.
Start 5 metres right of The Mantle at a clean seam.
FA: Kieth Lockwood, Geoff Gledhill, Barry Edwards - 1981-06-06
P1(27m, 14)Up seam then step right to right-facing flake/overlap. Up on left sde of this to ledge.
P2(20m, 14)Up diagonally right to flake and clump of spear grass at 8 metres. Above left are two horizontal overlaps on bulge in wall. Pass these on the left, then back up right to good anchors. The bulge can be climbed direct at grade 20 with poor protection (Keith Egerton, Jane Wilkinson 1984).
P3(48m, 12)Straight up.
    Blue Tongue 85m 14trad
 Another mossy filler.
Start 8 metres right of Lounge LIzard on cleanish rock.
FA: Peter Kraehenbuhl, Darren Crawford - 1990-11-24
P1(25m, 14)Left past two holes near ground. step right an wander up to the base of a short corner (Chameleon).
P2(50m, 14)Up corner, over bulge and up.
P3(10m, -)Up
    Chameleon 90m 14trad
 Another just OK route wandering its way up the moss. Superseded by Chameleon Connection.
Climb the initial technical crack of Chameleon Connection then go easily up left to base of small corner. Move back right 4 metres (rejoin Chameleon Connection) and up to and over black bulge. Continue pretty much straight up.
FA: Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood - 1983-09-28
    Chameleon Connection     IMG 106m 14trad
 This route combines the best bits of Chameleon and Joyride as well as imrpoving the first pitch of Chameleon.
Start 25 metres right of Brolga at a short seam through a bulge, a few metres left of the bolted bulge of Omaha Beach.
FA: See Chameleon and Joyride
P1(27m, 14)Up technical seam then straight up mossy, easy ground to left end of good ledge.
P2(22m, 13)Step left and through steepening then straight up to little horizontal break level with terrace on right. Traverse right and belay below small, right-facing corner at left side of terrace.
P3(39m, 13)Corner and wall to big ledge.
P4(18m, 10)Move right and up two short walls then easy scramble off right.
    Joyride 100m 13trad
 Another climb superseded by Chameleon Connection.
After initial crack of Chameleon Connection go diagonally right to join Panzer at overhang. Follow Panzer to terrace. Climb nice corner off left end of terrace and continue up walls.
FA: Peter Watling, Keith Lockwood, Kathy Burman (alt) - 1975-06-08
    Omaha Beach 80m 18trad
1 bolts
 Another clean streak that is proving popular.
Start 10m Left of Panzer.
FA: Yosef Murphy, Shaun Kratzer - 2005-04-04
P1(30m, 18, 1 bolts)Climb bulging wall to easier ground. Move back L and straight up through weakness in undercut bulge. Belay as for Panzer.
P2(30m, 16)Up Panzer's corner crack then traverse L following the flake. At the top of the flake go straight up and belay in V corner. The flake section at the beginning of this pitch was first done by Ed Neve, Peter Megens, Garry Wills as a variant to Panzer. 27-04-1980.
P3(20m, 8)Scrabble to the top following crack up and L.
    Panzer     IMGIMG 95m 12trad
 Start directly below the turret perching high above the right end of the face, just in front of a large boulder.
FA: Bruce Hocking, Mike Stone - 1965-03-19
P1(40m, 12)Up 2 metres to horizontal weakness, travers delicately left along this for 6 metres, then go up to major overlap. Traverse left to break through left end of overlap to large ledge. Walk right to obvious, left-facing corner.
P2(25m, 12)Jam corner to roof and step right around arete. Climb wall past some old pitons to an inset ledge below final tower.
P3(30m, 12)Traverse right to shallow corner. Up corner then steeply up front of turret. Scramble down back.
Battle Of The Bulge
30m 19Unknown
 Good climbing but crux bulge is poorly protected. Originally graded 16.
From the start of Panzer, go straight up water streak, over initial bulge at 2 metres. Just before overlap, trend 3 metres right to left-facing rib in bulging overlap. Up rib to a stance. Move slightly right, then back left and continue to large ledge.
FA: Yosef Murphy, John Fischer - 2007-04-00
    Kampfwagon 91m 15trad
 Start on the terrace of Panzer's first belay, 4 metres right of the Panzer corner.
Climb overhanging crack. At peg runner head right up wall to small overhang which is climbed on right. Belay at Panzer's shallow corner. Finish up corner, through two overhangs and up right.
FA: Darren Crawford, Peter Kaehenbuehl (alt) - 1990-11-24

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