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The Australian Route Register

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Ikara Head

  - 08 Central Tablelands (inc. The Blue Mountains)
    - 08. Mount Victoria (incl. Ikara, Boronia Pt, Piddington, Corroboree, Zig Zag, etc)
      - 01. Victoria Falls Road (incl. Ikara, Victorialand, Thor Head, etc)
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:Take the Victoria Falls road, to the right just after passing Browntown Oval (Soldier's Pinch) between Mt Boyce and Mt Victoria - This is a dirt road and can be a little rough on an old car - for exactly 4km until a minor vehical track is reached on the left (Signposted with a 'Management Track - Walkers Only' sign. This track is about 400m before the 'Asgard Swamp' trail. Leave your car here and walk. Follow the trail for about 3.3km until a small cliff overlooking a creek is reached. Find your way around the small cliff (cairns) and down through some swampy ground, across the creek and up the hill to the cliff line. The gully as you get to the cliff line is one of only 2 ways to the top of the cliffs, other than climbing that is! Head right beneath the overhangs until the climbing area is reached.
Rock:   Walk:   30-60 mins
Wet Weather:Soaked
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:mjw



1 :     The Mooing     IMGIMG 50m 24mixed
 Big orange corner opposite the detached block.
Corner to belay under roof. 2). Left under roof, up thin crack, right to corner and up.
FA: S.Moon,M.Law - 1992-00-00
2 :     The Sqealing     IMG 87m 24mixed
 30m right of TM. Arete.
Corner to bolt, left to arete. 2). Arete to chain. 3). Left edge of cave to roof, right, then the arete. To rap from here take 'hero' loops. Rap to chain then to ground 50m!!
FA: M.Law,M.Stacey - 1992-00-00
3 :     Splattergram     IMG 85m 21mixed
 15m right of TS. Cairn & flake.
Up to ledge. 2).Flakes to roof, up, right on loose block and up to chain. 3).Ramp to arete, to big ledge, up wall, left around roofs then right across wall to rap point. Double Ropes?
FA: M.Law,V.Kondos - 1993-00-00
4 :     Tuxedo Mask 50m 26mixed
 Right of S. Up the prow.
FA: S.Moon - 1999-00-00
5 :     Power Vacuum     IMG 120m 17trad
 "A surprisingly long climb despite appearances from below. Two fairly good pitches...spoiled somewhat by a scrappy finish."
Clean wide crack leading to a V groove with a bush in it.
Crack and corner to ledge, offwidth and chimney to bush, squeeze behind bush or - if you are fat - through it, up to belay on ledge. 2). Corner to ledge, short corner to ledge, left here across wall to nose, left across slab to ledge. Multiple bush anchors! Take Care. 3).Wall on right to terrace, diagonally rightwards through scrub to obvious corner groove. up.
FA: M.Colyvan,A.Penney - 1982-00-00
    Sponsored by the state     IMG 115m 19oldschool
6 bolts
FA: Duanne White, Dale Tweedie, Scott Young - 2005-00-00
P1(30m, 17, 2 bolts)Start up PV to the ledge, then up the arete to to the R passing 2 BR.
P2(40m, 16, 1 bolts)Continue up PV to ledge (ignoring bolt on wall to L, which is a gr 20 variant), then L to crack. Follow crack through roof, and continue until it is blocked by vegetation. Head up and L across slab past bolt to large ledge (1 bolt + cam belay).
P3(25m, 19, 2 bolts)Up face past 2 bolts, then 15 m left along ledge to 2 bolt belay. Good nut to avoid big swing for second.
P4(20m, 15, 1 bolts)Carefully up face passing bolt and a couple of cam breaks to 2 bolt belay at top.
    Club Mac     IMG 30m 20mixed
3 bolts
 Start 2 m R of PV, up pockets past bolt to ledge. up to next ledge past bolt, then R to shallow R facing corner/flake. L up this past BR to PV pitch 1 ledge & 2 rings.
FA: Dale Tweedie, Duanne White - 2005-00-00
6 :     Unknown 35m 20mixed
 3m right of PV.
Crack and wall left of the arete. Cams, bolts and piton to thread. Take Care!
7 :     Jezabel     IMGIMGIMG 100m 22mixed
 Probably the first climb here. The aid at the start of the second pitch was freed by Joe Friend.
33m right at obvious yellow crack/corner system.
15m up crack,right to bush and up to ledge, corner/chimney to small ledge below roof. 2). Over roof, short greasy overhung corner, tricky moves then up the soaring crack. 3). To top.
FA: B.Allen in the 1960's, freed in the 70's.
8 :     Aladinsane     IMGIMGIMG 40m 22mixed
 Sustained and varied climbing up a truly superb finger crack.
7m right again at short crack in block.
Onto block, crack to small ledge. Double bolt anchors - carrots! Rap off or finish as for Jezabel.
FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,M.Burton - 1980-00-00
9 :     Fantasia 40m 22mixed
 ...they must have been fighting for it!
7m right.
Up to 4th bolt, traverse right, flakes, rising ramp to thin crack. Take 11 brackets and double ropes.
FA: G.James,A.McAuley,M.Moore,D.Lawler,R.McKillop,G.Benett - 1995-00-00
10 :     Reincarnation 35m 18mixed
 Halfway up the ramp.
Crack to ledge. Traverse left to 'Jezabel' belay bolts.
FA: E.Garbett,M.Wilson - 1992-00-00
11 :     Blast Off     IMGIMGIMG 110m 22trad
 An amazing line and excellent climbing.
Left facing corner 25m right of A.
Up corner to ledge, then crack to wall at the top.
FA: K.Bell and his brother. - 1979-00-00
12 :     Snakes and Ladders 75m 20 M2mixed
 From the top of the block, 10m right of BO.
Crack to ledge 2). Diagonal finger crack to fixed wires.
FA: M.Wilson - 1994-00-00
    Bumblies ahoy     IMG 20m 20trad
 Probably done before, but it's a decent line and worth recording.

Crack, ~ 2m to the right of the R facing corner almost directly below Blast Off. Up the clean hand/off width crack to ledge.
Back on the ground below the block
FA: FRA Duanne White - 2006-00-00
13 :     Telstar     IMGIMGIMG 85m 19mixed
43m right of BO. Crack/groove system below a terrifying roof.
Up corner to small roof - swing right - crack/groove to ledge. 2).To roof, chimney out across the void. Take Care and prussicks for the second! Semi hanging belay above roof. 3).Crack up wall then scramble off.
FA: K.Bell,I.Thomas - 1975-00-00
14 :     Kaladan     IMGIMGIMG 30m 20trad
 "The climb that Ikara is famous for and the only one that most people have heard of!" - A.Penney 1982
Crack 33m right of T.
Up wide crack in corner to roof, over this and follow left sloping crack to chains.
FA: B.Allen,K.Bell,P.Giles,I.Thomas - 1975-00-00
15 :     Confidence Trick 35m 23mixed
 On right side of arete right of K.
Up to L&W, across this right and up wall and flakes.
FA: M.Wilson,B.Harrington - 1992-00-00
16 :     Lace & Whisky 15m 16mixed
 2.5m right of previous route.
Crack and flake, then left joining K.
FA: A.Mason,C.Bennett,R.Lebreton - 1985-00-00
17 :     Serene Machine     IMG 34m 24mixed
 Arete right of CT. Carrots.
FA: G.James,W.Stevens - 1996-00-00
18 :     Waltzing Matilda     IMG 80m 17trad
 "An excellent excursion for a hot day. Some tube runners are useful on the 2nd pitch."
Right facing corner about 30m past K. Scramble to base of corner.
Up wall right of corner to ledge, wide corner crack, bushes, up the chimney to huge cave. 2). Take Care! Chimney for about 10m, right to chimney mouth and small legde - you can get a wire in here somewhere - up chimney or into it!
FA: C.Dale,A.Penney - 1983-00-00
19 :     The Gift 28m 24mixed
 Right again. Crack and peapod.
Crack to offwidth and belay where crack becomes slabby. 2). Up and right around arete, wall and arete, left at last bolt and up to belay. Rap here or continue up crack as for WM.
FA: S.Wilson,K.Luck - 2001-00-00
20 :     Water Closet. 40m 18trad
 90m right of K.
Around roof and up crack - possible to belay where wall becomes a slab - Small corner, traverse right along obvious break 10m, diagonally right across to corner and up. Take Care!
FA: W.Baird,G.Bradbury - 1979-00-00
21 :     Pin Ups 50m 22mixed
 A Varied climb with a bit of everything.
65m right of of WC. Shale band with roof crack above.
Short manky wall past metal to roof, over roof and up sloping cracks to belay. 2). Thin wall above (wires) to ledge. 3). Walk left then up steep corner to top.
FA: P.Young,A.Prehn - 1982-00-00
22 :     Lunatic Soup 20m 20mixed
 150m right again. Track below steep crack right os small black chimney.
To block, corner, crack, left to ledge and rap.
FA: N.Deka,B.Cameron - 1988-00-00
23 :     Unknown??m - mixed
 Big orange corner 30m right again.
Up corner to slings.
24 :     Freerider 55m 19 M0mixed
 20m right again.
Wide crack, blocks, thin crack (aid) to ledge. 2). Zig zag crack then right to belay. 3). Up.
FA: B.Cameron,N.Deka - 1988-00-00

Recent Ascents

Samuel Telstaronsight2011-11-05
wombly Blast Offfreeyuk!2010-01-21
Nick Clow Splattergramonsight2009-10-08
Nick Clow Aladinsaneonsight2009-10-08
Nick Clow Telstaronsight2009-10-08
Nick Clow Kaladanonsight2009-10-08
nmonteith Telstar17 pitch is terror. Super ***onsight2009-05-17
nmonteith KaladanAbsolute 3 stars killer cracksecond (clean)2009-05-17
nmonteith Lace & Whiskyif only it was 4 x as longonsight2009-05-17
jellyfish Kaladanonsight202007-09-23
Ado The Mooingthe cobwebs are now cleaned..but the sand remains!! It's a great routeonsight242007-05-30
mjw The Mooingfree240000-00-00
mjw Blast Offfree220000-00-00
mjw Kaladanfree200000-00-00

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