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The Australian Route Register

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Upper Cliff

  - 06 Illawarra (inc Nowra & Point Perpendicular)
    - 5. Point Perpendicular
      - (2) Lighthouse Area
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:Routes are described in order from bayside to the seaside - that is, from right to left when looking out to sea.
Rock:   Walk:Rappel   5-15 mins
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:koala



Untitled Route   -   verified
??m - oldschool
 Open project - but a three star deletion for whoever does the FA
    Anchovy Express 30m 19mixed
7 bolts
 Up groove passing carrots.
Nice wall take lots of small cams and wires.
Double carrot belay
Start on Halfway ledge as for Coleridge
FA: G. James, P. Bridges - 1998-00-00
FFA: 2030-02-07
    Guiding light 40m 20trad
 Many cams!

Up white corner grove to block, step right. Continue crack to the right end of a big roof. Step right and up to break, up then left to big orange headwall.
Same as for banksia and coleridge.
FA: Ian Brown, Tom Williams - 1988-07-16
FFA: 2030-02-07
    Coleridge 40m 16Unknown
 Start on same ledge.
FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown - 1988-06-12
FFA: 1999-11-30
    Rapt in Rubber 15m 21mixed
3 bolts
 Exposed - Travers left near arete past bolt, up past more.
Same belay as Centurian
FA: Greg James, Steve Burns
FFA: 1999-11-30
    Centurian 10m 16trad
 Left hand edge of ledge, up corner.
Same start as RIR
FA: Ian Brown, Bob McMillan - 1989-12-19
FFA: 1999-11-30
    Plunging Testicles 10m 25mixed
2 bolts
 Up wall past bolts and small cam placements on sharp holds.
Centurian ledge
FA: Greg James, Steve Burns, Escaba
FFA: 1999-11-30
    Impact Zone     IMGIMG 10m 15trad
 Up the corner crack.

Same belay as WCF.
    Women and Children First   -   verified     IMG 12m 15trad
FA: Ian Brown, Bob McMillan - 1989-12-19
    Wolf 15m 18trad
 Steep wall 2m left of arete with not a lot of pro.
Left side of arete, exposed stance.
FA: Roy Fryer, Owen McMahon, Cerin McMillan.
FFA: 1999-00-00
    Little Red Riding Hood   -   verified     IMG 25m 17trad
 Traverse out right and up, aiming for the nose. Up this to the top. There is one carrot at the fairly blank section on the arete. Double carrot belay on top.
Rap into the embayment just to the right of the lowest point in the lighthouse fence.
FA: Steve Burns, Greg James, Bede Harrington
    When the Levee Breaks   -   verified     IMGIMG 20m 19mixed
 Start just right of LRRH. Up the line with four brackets and pockets for cams.
FA: Greg James
    Spiders and Space Cadets   -   verified     IMG 20m 16trad
 The wide corner which is surprisingly good value near the top. Take a long sling!
Start just right of WTLB.
FA: Ivan Valenta, Jane Montgomery - 2002-06-00
Proudly Penguin   -   verified     IMG
20m 21mixed
1 bolts
 Up wall to flake then bolt to top.

Watch the runouts!
Start 2m right of Corner
FA: Neil Plant, Robyn Cleland
    Destructive Wombats     IMGIMG 20m 21mixed
2 bolts
 Straight up the wall past many cam placements and a BOMBER sling at half height!
Start 4m right of corner
FFA: Greg James, Steve Burns, Jenny Godfrey-Smith
    Schrapnel In My Backyard 15m 21Unknown
FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, Chris Trengove
    Mister Bean     IMGIMG 30m 24sport
10 bolts
 Clip first bolt of FZ, then make way to arete passing another bolt. Follow arete passing 8 more bolts with one hidden around the left. Grade 26 if you dont use the holds on the left of arete.
Start as for FZ
FA: Greg James
    Fuzzy Logic   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 25m 23mixed
 Climb off the block staying out of the corner passing a few FHs and many medium cams. Is slightly run out at the top, but is easier and you can put in some big cams if you really want.

Rap in to an exposed triangular block with 2 FH for belay.
FA: Greg JAmes
    Liquid Insanity Direct Finish   -   verified     IMGIMG 35m 24mixed
 As for Liquid Insanity but dont traverse back right, continue up arete.
FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig
FFA: Jan 2009
    Liquid Insanity   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 35m 23mixed
 Up corner, then left passing bolts to arete, up arete with cams. Near top, traverse back right and up final bolt line.
Start as for Liquid Daze
FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig
    Liquid Daze   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 35m 23mixed
 Up small corner (bolt) to wall, then tending right slightly past more bolts
FA: Greg jaes, Adrian Kladnig
    Test 15m 15trad
FA: Phil Georgeff - 1998-05-15
    Grey 15m 16trad
FA: Phil Georgeff - 1988-05-15
    Rex Hunt's Love Child   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 30m 21sport
 A super classic - and probably the best route around this grade on the sea cliffs. Do it!
Abseil in from carrot and cams for backup. Start on the left hand side of the wall below the rings.
Climb the chossy looking wall past a few rings until the rock gets better and the route joins the arete at a rest. The climbing gets better and better as you get closer to the top. Places for natural pro as well.
FA: Greg James
    Northern Exposure     IMGIMGIMG 30m 22mixed
 Straight up the wall - small to medium cams help in the middle
2 mtrs right of RHLC
FA: Greg James
    Eviction Order     IMG 10m 26mixed
3 bolts
 Easy traversing from the belay ledge till you reach the first of three bolts. Punch directly up on ever thinning crimps and pockets to the top.

One 0.4 camalot will slot in nicely on the traverse.
Rap down the crevice to the first comfortable ledge. Launch out right from here.
    Bad Luck Streak   -   verified     IMGIMG 30m 20trad
 Climb the thin crack until it ends at half height, step left to continue crack and up into the jams to top.
Start at the thin crack
FA: Joe Lynch Mike Law-Smith Phil Georgeff - 1988-05-15

Recent Ascents

Olbert Mister BeanWould get 3 stars if the awesome arete climbing went all the way to the topfree242012-12-28
Olbert Eviction OrderShould have flashed it the first time - instead I barn-doored after the crux. free252012-12-28
eijkel Little Red Riding ...second (clean)2012-01-14
eijkel When the Levee gear neededonsight2012-01-14
eijkel Rex Hunt's Love gear neededonsight2012-01-14
eijkel Northern Exposuresecond (rest)2012-01-14
eijkel Bad Luck Streaksecond (rest)2012-01-14
christo Rex Hunt's Love Ch...free2010-08-04
Olbert Destructive WombatsNice moves - nice routeonsight212010-03-26
darylthedude Little Red Riding ...free2010-01-10
darylthedude Rex Hunt's Love (clean)2010-01-10
Seb Northern Exposurefree222010-01-06
onemiletofreedom When the Levee Bre...onsight2009-12-05
onemiletofreedom Plunging Testiclesfree2009-12-05
daaave Fuzzy LogicFairly sustained and quite reachyonsight232009-12-05
daaave Destructive Wombatsonsight212009-12-05
daaave Proudly Penguinsecond (clean)212009-12-05
daaave Rex Hunt's Love Ch...second (clean)212009-11-28
daaave Bad Luck StreakGreat!onsight202009-11-28
Olbert Bad Luck StreakDefinitely need the tape gloves for this onesecond (clean)202009-11-28
Olbert Liquid DazeHad to fight reeeaaaal hard for it!onsight232009-11-28
daaave Liquid Insanity Di...No way is this 24!onsight232009-11-28

Copyright, ACA, 2012