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The Australian Route Register

The Guardhouse


Crag:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 07. Stapylton - Campground
This area is locked for editing by the parent crag. Route additions are allowed.
Description:Home of the gritty sloper and the quick pump! A small, gently overhung amphitheater of rock with a couple of good Blue Mountains style sport routes. The orange wall is clearly visible on the hillside when driving in from the west past the olive grove. Pack a handful of draws and some forearms.
Location:Refer to map one level up for access. Start the walk in as for Sentinel Cave. After hopping over a big dead tree about 8 minutes into the walk, and past the last of the small cliffs on the left, turn left and follow small creek bed steeply uphill heading for the semi-obvious orange wall high on the hill. Some rock cairns and yellow tape mark the way, but there is no good track (yet). Once you get to the crag itself scramble up ledges on the right and walk left to small fixed rope to get to base of wall. You can scramble up the grade 1 left hand side of the crag to reach the top if you wish. Be careful, the rock is shit and it's exposed!

Total approach time is 20 minutes. Shade and breezes until 2pm in summer. Most routes stay dry in light showers - but after extended rain the seepage drains down Little George and Ranger Danger.

Rock:   Walk:Steep   15-30 mins
Wet Weather:Damp
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:nmonteith


Issues

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Map One

[IMG]

Routes

1 :     Afluenza 13m 21sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Far left most route. Start direct under the first bolt at grade 21, or climb in from the left at 20. A tricky mantle in the middle spoils the pumpy slopy fun. Five RBs and lower-off. Be wary of the last few metres, the jugs are a bit too big for comfort.
FA: Neil Monteith & Steve Bright - 2007-12-01
2 :     Line of Sight   -   verified     IMG 14m 23sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Possibly the best route at the Guardhouse. Wave to the scout hoards at Staplyton Campground as you pull to glory through the ceiling. Located on left side of wall. Reachy orange goodness to start to reach prominent roof cave. Over roof and up right side of subtle arĂȘte to final juggy wall. 5 UBs and double UB lower-off.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2006-00-00
3 :     Felonies Under the Radar   -   verified     IMG 11m 24sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 3rd bolted line from the left.
A punchy start (sandbag?) leads to a sustained finish through and around the roof. Stick clip the first bolt, then four more to the anchors.
FA: Adam Demmert & Steve Kassar - 2008-07-19
4 :     Miss Communication   -   verified     IMG 10m 23sport
4 bolts
Lower-off
 Short punchy number. The 4th bolted route from the left with the white stained scoop in the middle. Up slopers to roof heuco. Over this on incuts then one final tough move to jugs. Chain anchor. 4 RBs.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2007-11-17
5 :     Little George   -   verified     IMG 13m 23sport
4 bolts
Lower-off
 Named after George the baby gecko, that hitched a ride on a backpack all the way to Brunswick... causing havoc at Jac's place for two weeks before being returned to the Grampians! Follows left-trending line of four ringbolts in centre of crag just right of big scoopy hueco in rooflet. Stroll through delicate start just left of first bolt, locate the secret hold, and march your way to glory over steep juggy terrain. Double RB lower off.
FA: Jacqui Middleton & Neil Monteith - 2003-00-00
6 :     Ranger Danger   -   verified     IMGIMG 14m 24sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Weaves around black streak on far right side of main wall. Bouldery start (stick clip ring) up slopers and slots to easier ground. At halfway head slightly right to rest stance then up past hidden RB (scary clip!) and crux dyno. Finish up steep jugs. Five RBs and DRB lower-off.
FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson - 2003-00-00
7 :     Fractionally Flamed   -   verified 15m 18sport
3 bolts
Lower-off
 Sandy slopers. Starts back at ground level and 40m right of the main wall. White clean streak on otherwise juggy grey wall. A tad runout for the inexperienced. 3 RBs and lower-off.
FA: Neil Monteith & Steve Bright - 2007-12-01

Recent Ascents

dreamingof8a Afluenzafree212008-03-10
Macciza Line of Sightonsight2008-02-26
Macciza Afluenzaonsight2008-02-26
Macciza Miss Communicationonsight2008-02-26

Copyright, ACA, 2012