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The Australian Route Register

Ground Level - Clemency Wall

  - South East Queensland
    - 03 - Glasshouse Mountains
      - Mt Tibrogargan
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:Routes are listed from left to right.
Location:Access as for Celestial Wall sector. From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the L branch (signposted Tibrogargan Picnic Area 1km) and follow this for five minutes, walking over a gully paved with large rocks. 10m past the gully, turn R on a small foot track past a huge white gum. Follow this track for eight minutes up to the SE corner of the mountain. The track meets the rock at Heliosphere on Celestial Wall. Follow the rock up and right for one minute or so to get to Clemency Wall.
Rock:   Walk:   15-30 mins
Wet Weather:Soaked
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:gremlin


Map One

(scaled down)

Map One

(scaled down)


    Clemency     IMG 192m 16oldschool
 Description kindly supplied by Ted Cais (updated by Lee).
A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the State for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone.
10m R of Rubicon on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'.
FA: FA Les Wood, Donn Groom. FFA Unknown. - 1966-00-00
P1(35m, 15)10m runout off the deck up blocky slab. A further 10m with a tricky step-left (PR and small SLCD) to R-trending ramp beneath the blocky roofs. Belay on the ramp off gear.
P2(30m, 16)Ascending, traverse 10m R to hollow white flake below bulge (the original aid move complete with PR). Back up the peg before carefully cringing up R to easier ground. Up a ways until you can traverse L to ledge below the huge corner (rings on ledge - 50m rap to ground).
P3(32m, 14)An excellent pitch. Up initial corner and through small rooflet to continue up into the huge corner. Exit out R and up to rap anchor on tree on Clemency Terrace (aka Halfway House). Walk 20m L along the terrace and up a little hill to the base of a R-trending ramp.
P4(35m, 12)A tricky start that would demolish grade-12 leaders is the key to continuing up remnants of the big groove. Struggle past loose blocks and prickly grass defending good hex placements along the slanting crack R to a stance. 5) 30m (9) Up and trend L to below final corner capped by large blocks suspended in anti-gravity mode.
P5(30m, 9)Up and trend L to below final corner capped by large blocks suspended in anti-gravity mode.
P6(30m, 11)This overhanging time bomb is defused by an exciting move L followed by a mellow romp up the rib and ejection into the summit scrub field. A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track.
    Dreadnought     IMG 375m 16oldschool
 Take wires, RP’s and SLCD’s to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit.
15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked D.
FA: Ted Cais, Mike Meadows - 1970-00-00
P1(50m, -)Follow ramp until it finishes on a vegetated ledge.
P2(20m, -)Easily L along ledge and up through obvious weakness in wall above (old pegs) to a ledge and technical belay in corner on R.
P3(10m, -)Up corner, then out to R before cutting back L along ledge to FH and SLCD belay (optional).
P4(40m, -)Up corner on R (tricky), and then diagonally R across slab to bush belay.
P5(35m, -)Up slightly L to the end of the scrubby ledge (Clemency Terrace aka Halfway House). Beware loose blocks. Belay.
P6(20m, -)Walk L along ledge to below obvious crack/flake corner.
P7(50m, -)Up corner and at top out R to easier ground. Continue diagonally out R to a large vegetated gully. TB. This is a superb, rope-stretching pitch.
P8(30m, -)Up slab L of gully to ledge and bush belay.
P9(30m, -)Up to ledge and belay in continuation of gully above the Carborundum Terrace.
P10(20m, 16)Enter groove from L (delicate) and straight up to belay at horizontal break at stance.
P11(40m, -)Out L and through juggy bulge. Up easy angle wall to TB.
P12(30m, -)Through scrub and rock walls to summit scrub field. Another 80m above is the summit

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