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The Australian Route Register

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Ground Level - Celestial Wall

  - South East Queensland
    - 03 - Glasshouse Mountains
      - Mt Tibrogargan
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:Blessed with afternoon shade, Celestial Wall offers multipitch sport climbing in an amazing, exposed position. Standing in the carpark, Celestial is obvious as the gobsmacking bright orange swathe of steep blocky rock on Tibro's SE corner. Even though it's sporty, don't forget where you are - take helmets, prussiks, and a healthy dose of caution! As for gear, all routes in this sector are bolted with fixed hangers, so 12 quickdraws will do it, along with the usual slings and screwgates. It’s possible to get away with only one 60m rope, although you’ll have to carefully plan your abseils to avoid getting stranded. Two ropes allow you to get down from any rap station (via multiple abseils). Always tie stopper knots and carry prussiks when abseiling here!
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:gremlin


Map One

(scaled down)


    Troposphere     IMG 115m 18sport
 Start: About 60m L of Heliosphere at the first section of unvegetated rock. Climb trends to the R with a significant traverse to the R behind a spiky bushed ledge at pitch 4. All pro is FHs. Take some long draws and slings to help reduce rope drag over the overlaps.
FA: Phil Box - 2007-01-13
P1(30m, 15)Up easy-angled slab to overlapping set of steps which grow steadily steeper the higher you go.
P2(15m, 17)Can be combined with p3 easily.
P3(15m, 18)Wonderful corner system.
P4(25m, 15)Directly up the broken blocks from the belay and then trend R up to the spiky bush belay ledge. Chain and ring for belay.
P5(30m, 16)Continue across ledge and around the front of the large Gendarme and climb up the corner behind to clipping stance atop the Gendarme. Step across the void and up to join the top section of Voyager. Two FH's for belay. To descend, you may continue to the Halfway House Terrace and rap down Clemency, (possible with one 60m rope), or simply rap back down Troposphere.
    C Section 25m 18sport
 At the top of pitch 1 of Troposphere
Move up one or two bolts and move to the L into a rising traverse L and then up to move R to the station at top of pitch 3 of Troposphere. Some interesting and spicy moves but rope drag may be an issue as the route moves through a very large arc, hence the name.
FA: Phil Box, JJ O'Brien - 2007-03-19
    Rescision 15m 19sport
 At the belay at top of pitch 2 Troposphere.
Step L using delicate moves up to giant jug, trend L for a couple of moves and then up to join C Section. Very fun; wish it was a whole route using similar moves as the start.
FA: Phil Box - 2007-02-03
    Heliosphere 35m 14sport
 About 25m L of Aphelion’s first pitch, just L of the juncture of the east and south faces. Marked with a white square.
Up the slab passing about ten FH’s to rap station. For the descent, a doubled 60m rope will get you to a ramp where you can scramble off (care!).
FA: Phil Box - 2004-11-28
    Zenith     IMG 25m 23sport
 At the top of Heliosphere, but scramble carefully (roped) up L to ledge to bolted belay station.
Steeply up orange rock past four FH’s to bivi ledge. Up ramp, leaning out to clip two FH’s before committing to the wall proper. Increasingly pumpy moves past the final two bolts sets up an interesting exit.
FA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box - 2004-11-28
    Vernal Equinox 30m 22sport
 At the top of Heliosphere.
The line of 11 FH’s directly above the belay. Probably the lowest quality route here due to the amount of ledges, but worth doing if you've done the other routes here. One tricky boulder problem constitutes the crux. A doubled 60m rope gets you back on the ledge from the lower off.
FA: Phil Box, Lee Cujes - 2004-12-18
    Latitudes     IMG 40m 21sport
 A long, exciting pitch, and probably a bit stiff for 21, but we don't want to have every route graded 22.
At the top of Heliosphere.
From the station, climb up and R following the bolted line (11 FH’s). At final bolt (rooflet), step L one move, then finish back R at Voyager’s p3 rap station.
FA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box - 2004-11-27
    Voyager     IMG 95m 23sport
 All pro is fixed hangers. Max number of draws needed is ten.
FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box - 2004-11-14
P1(35m, 16)First pitch as for Aphelion.
P2(12m, 21)From the belay, take the overhung line leading up L. Powerful.
P3(18m, 23)Enjoy the moves leading up the superb slab to roof. Having a long reach will knock the roof down to about 21 for you, otherwise it\'s a tricky little bouldering sequence.
P4(30m, 17)Last pitch ends at top of fixed rope traverse. Walk up and then R to Halfway House terrace, or descend rope traverse to top of Aphelion and rap with two 60 metre ropes.
    Aphelion     IMGIMGIMG 87m 22sport
 Great climbing in a superb position.
6m L below apex of overhanging orange wall, at the small rock cairn. Marked 'A'.
FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box - 2004-07-16
P1(35m, 16)At rock cairn climb straight up until first FH becomes visible. Nine FH's up to rap station below steep wall on L.
P2(12m, 21)Climb R past two close FH's. Then straight up past a third FH to rap station on big choss ledge.
P3(30m, 22)Straight up orange corner and face above. At ninth FH step R and up to rap station on sloping ramp. This is the standout pitch of Celestial Wall.
P4(10m, 22)Short and a bit awkward. Mount bulge from L. At ledge on top, rap anchor is on L. A fixed rope leads up and R onto Halfway House terrace.
    Rubicon     IMGIMG 85m 22sport
 10m L, below first FH. Marked 'R'.
FA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box - 2004-12-18
P1(45m, 18)12 FH’s. This long and varied pitch features interesting black slab climbing before steepening into a lovely sculpted orange corner. Belay at rap station on R.
P2(30m, 22)Nine FH’s lead up some bulgy, wacky territory to exposed, blocky arête which bounds the R side of Celestial Wall. Finish at rap station as for p3 of Aphelion. Rap off here, or..
P3(10m, 22)As for fourth pitch of Aphelion onto Halfway House ledge.

Recent Ascents

TrentP1Aphelionsecond (clean)172009-07-26
TrentP2Aphelion18 at most, or its contrivedonsight192009-07-26
TrentP3Aphelionwonderfull. 7 falls to get it. Nice find by the boltersdog222009-07-26
walpolemP2Aphelionsecond (clean)202009-07-05
walpolemP4Aphelionsecond (clean)212009-07-05

Copyright, ACA, 2012