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The Australian Route Register

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Level Two - The Halfway House

  - South East Queensland
    - 03 - Glasshouse Mountains
      - Mt Tibrogargan
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:Hosting some superb routes in a fabulous position, this wall is located 90m off the deck on Tibro's East face (on Clemency Terrace). It can be reached various ways, such as via the first three pitches of Clemency or Lancelot (trad), The Twisticle Connection (three pitch mixed) or Aphelion (four pitch sport). As you walk up to the base of the wall from Clemency’s third pitch belay and rap anchor you'll see a 1m roof at head height. This is a landmark for locating routes.
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:gremlin



    Cunningly Deceptive 13m 21mixed
2 bolts
 Now with bolts! Climb the corner past two FH's and a couple of bits of good natural gear to rap station on steep wall.

Start at the black corner about 3m R of where the track angles steeply uphill.
FFA: Phil Box, Lee Cujes - 2002-10-29
    Rocketsauce 12m 19sport
 Up past a couple of FH's to rooflet. Interesting moves pulling R around this. Join TD to finish.

Start: A couple of metres R beneath bolted corner.
FFA: Lee Cujes, Duncan Steel - 2019-10-07
    Tenacious D     IMG 12m 20sport
 Up the steep little corner passing FH's to a ledge. Step R to clip bolt on bulge, then up to clip rap station on R. A nice moderate sport route for Halfway House.

Start: 1m R on the fallen block beneath the bolted corner.
FFA: Lee Cujes, Duncan Steel - 2012-10-07
    The Court Jester 35m 17mixed
 1) 15m (14) Bouldery moves off the deck to good holds. Trend R up obvious ramp/weakness. Negotiate shrubbery to arrive at large triangle ledge. Shared rap station on R end of ledge. The two FH's leading up from here are for Maponus’ second pitch (23).
2) 20m (17) Continue up corner 3m, step L into next corner and up for 4m. Step L out of corner and climb over short steep bit (crux). Walk easily up slab to find rap station underneath large roof. 30m rap to the terrace.

Start: 4m L of the landmark roof is a R-trending blocky weakness.
FFA: Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn - 2001-10-03
12m 22mixed
 Boulder up over the roof, then step L up past two FH’s on the front of the pillar. Up and over on to the slab (green alien on L) then up (thin gear) to Jester’s rap station on ledge. Be aware of the tree below you if you fall.

Start: About 6m R, just R of the landmark roof.
FA: James Pfrunder, Phil Box, Pat Daly - 2003-06-22
FFA: Cameron Fairbairn - 1999-11-30
    Gut Punch The Budda     IMG 12m 23sport
 The R side of the roof sports some protruding blocks. Crank through on these and blast the corner above past four FH's to Jester’s rap station on ledge. Not the best route, but gets heaps of traffic for some reason. A soft touch at the grade!

Start: At the landmark roof, as for Emu-less.
FFA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box - 2029-09-30
    Maponus     IMGIMG 37m 23mixed
 1) 12m (22) The arching crackline on natural gear. Finishes on the large triangle ledge (with Jester’s rap station).
2) 25m (23) Directly above belay. Two FH's protect a few gut-busting moves on small crimps. After that, head up and through placing gear to pull on to easy terrain. R and up on slab for about 15m to spiky bush ledge which hides rap station. 35m rap to the terrace, or short rap to Dagda anchors, then 25m to ground.

Start: 3m R of Gut Punch The Budda. The first pitch draws the stars.
FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box - 2001-10-03
    The Sword In The Stone 25m 18trad
 Head L into corner and up for 3m. Step R for 3m underneath suspended flake (above the 23 section of Maponus). Up for 4m and finish up slab as for pitch two of Maponus.

Start: At Jester’s rap station atop pitch one of Maponus.
FFA: Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn - 2001-10-03

Copyright, ACA, 2012