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The Australian Route Register

Jugantor Area

  - 08 Central Tablelands (inc. The Blue Mountains)
    - 07. Mt Boyce (incl. Boycetown and Browntown)
      - 02. Lower Boyce (Walkdown Gully to Abseil Gully areas)
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:A stunning area with some very high quality routes and rock. Blue Mountains climbing at its best. The Topo is referenced to the Pircher/Carter Blue Mountains climbing guide. Descriptions and Topo from Roger Bourne.
Rock:   Walk:   15-30 mins
Wet Weather:Damp
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:secretary


Map One



    The Master\\\'s Eggs     IMGIMGIMG 68m 23sport
 Gritstone climbing on perfect rock. The beautiful orange arete 50m left of One Of The Best.
Start off tree at right end of slab.
FA: R Bourne, C Frost - 2004-00-00
P1(25m, 23)Thin traverse left to the arete then ecstatically up. The rounded arete leads to some beautifully polished scoops. Pull past these and make some thin moves to gain the flake above. Go straight up (bolt added Jan 07). Rap off double rings.
P2(28m, 23)Traverse the holdless footledge then try to find the holds on the slab above. Up the arete and up the bulge past the eggs.
P3(15m, 20)Through the bulge to anchors at the top of the cliff. You can also rap in this way.
65 :     One of the Best     IMGIMGIMG 56m 26sport
 An absolutely awesome line. Do it in one monster 45m pitch or double rings semi-hanging belay half way up. No cams necessary any more. Rap twice or tow a second rope, though its hard enough doing the thin top crux with the full weight of one rope. A 65m rope permits lowering and retying at the first belay. Rebolted by Martin Pircher (top) and Roger Bourne (bottom) (2002-2004) with permission from GB/JS.
Start in the middle of the impressive wall 200m left of Spoilt Brats.
FA: Giles Bradbury and John Smoothy. - 1990-03-00
P1(26m, 26)Up easy stuff and left under roof, up flake and through bulge to belay.
P2(30m, 20)Right to thin crack, up it, then right to arete and up.
66 :     Plastic Surgeon     IMGIMG 50m 24sport
 Orthopaedic more likely by all accounts. Megan Turnbull had to build a cairn on a ledge by rope-hauling stones up one by one. Rap twice or take two ropes.
Start to the right of One Of The Best.
FA: A Duckwoth, M Pircher - 2002-00-00
P1(25m, 24)Follow the dots... to a double bolt belay.
P2(25m, 24)Towards the top of the second pitch think about the name of the climb and grope around for a "hold" in a place you wouldnt expect to find one.
66+ :     Cat's in the Cradle     IMG 53m 19sport
 This three pitch bolted route ascends the dark grey slab between Plastic Sturgeon and Jugantor.
Starts at the bottom left of the slab, just right of a vegetated diagonal crack/ramp.
FA: Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly - 2006-00-00
P1(20m, 17)Awkward start from horizontal tree trunk just above the track. Up trending right for 10m to gain break with hands, then traverse right for 10m to DRB in large horizontal break. 9 RB to hanging belay.
P2(25m, 19)Toughish face moves for a few metres, then the angle eases to a thin slab, with a very balancy crux 3/4 way up. Trust your feet! 10 RB to DRB belay on good stance.
P3(8m, 16)Up trending right to bulge with large ironstone flakes, over bulge then easily up. 5 RB to DRB on good ledge.
66a :     Jugantor     IMGIMGIMG 65m 24sport
 "An excellent route" (Kyle D.)
Start to the right of the corner with the grey slab.
FA: R. Bourne - 2003-00-00
P1(20m, 23)Pull up onto into the groove and traverse bizzarely left 10m then up wall. Falling seconds may be lost in space so consider bringing prussics.
P2(15m, 23)Head on up the perfect grey rock.
P3(30m, 24)A Wee bit tricky getting up the slab and then down across it. Don't wear slippers !. Steep jugging follows. Belay on rings on a ledge about 2m below the top.
66b :     Licking Holes Creek     IMGIMG 60m 24sport
 Another classic in this area.
Start just left of the corner with the slab - opposite the huge fallen boulder. The is an old "H" on the rock - probably the start of Haggis which goes up the slab to the right.
FA: R. Bourne - 2003-00-00
P1(15m, 23)All sorts of technical balancing required to get to and past first bolt.
P2(20m, 24)Awkward move up and onto flake, then start traversing left and across the beautiful orangeness. Easily left. Use left one two rings on steep grey wall above.
P3(25m, 20)Climb the beautiful corner, and or the arete. Go right at the roof.
66c :     Lap Lap Land     IMGIMG 35m 22sport
 An alternative finish to Licking Holes Creek. Lots of good holds all facing the wrong direction.
Start as for first two pitches of LHC.
Up the flake, then up the wall. Stick clip (BYO stick) first bolt or take care.
FA: R Bourne, G Bradbury - 2003-00-00

Recent Ascents

dodP1Cat's in the Cradleonsight172008-05-31
dodP2Cat's in the Cradleonsight172008-05-31
dodP3Cat's in the Cradleonsight142008-05-31
secretaryP1The Master\'s Eggsonsight232005-12-15

Copyright, ACA, 2012