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The Australian Route Register

Bouldering Guide


Crag:QLD
  - South East Queensland
    - 01 - Brisbane Urban Areas
      - Kangaroo Point
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:Feel Free to add you own favorite problems...

While most of the lines are contrived it is an excellent training ground. The routes are listed from left to right when facing the cliffs.

Note:
Unless mentioned otherwise, most problems start sitting on the ground, (not your mat!) with your feet anywhere you like as long as it's on the rock. While climbing, your feet can go anywhere unless specified otherwise.

L = Left hand. R = Right hand. M = Match hands. F = Foot.
Rock:   Walk:   <5 mins
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:gremlin


Issues

Routes

    Fish Tail V3
 The arete behind the fish sculpture.
    The Fish Problem     IMGIMGIMG V7
 One of the most least contrived problems on the whole cliff.
Near the old naval stores (far left of the crag), in behind a sculpture of a fish. Start from the pocket and go up.
[IMG]

<br>Tiger Stripe.

    Tiger Stripe V3
 Sit start Tiger Stripe with a pinch and a heel hook. Finish by standing upright on the low 'step'.
    The Big Traverse   -   verified     IMG V2
 Test your stamina and endurance across about 250m of rock. There used to be a fig tree that grew up the cliff at Tigers Stripe.
Start at either Tigers Stripe and traverse right until you reach Moonlight Fantasia, or do it the opposite way.
[IMG]

The Bulge Area

    Movements     IMGIMGIMG V5
 Superclassic! Start R2, L3, M3, L4, R5, L7, R14, L17, M7, MF6.
    Bust a Boiler     IMG V3
 M6, L7, R15, M15.
    Monkeys   -   verified V3
 Sit start using holds 4 and 6. Straight up to 15.
    Power Gamin     IMG V2
 M6, L18, R11, M11, R15, M15.
    Power Gambit     IMG V5
 M6, L18 (undercling), R11, M11, R15, M15.
    Ninja Boner V6
 M6, L18 (undercling), R7, L11, M11.
    Thank God I'm Not An Aboriginal V2
 M6, L7, R3, L23, then right hand to big jug just out of picture.
[IMG]

The SRO Area

    Star Jumps   -   verified V2
 The crack between the climbs marked SR and SRO.
Sit start in the arch shaped feature on 1 and 2. Layback up the finger crack to the jugs above the V.
[IMG]
(scaled down)


The Dishes.<br>
<em style='font-size:8pt;'>(click to enlarge)</em>

    Split my Sides   -   verified     IMG V3
 M21, R22, M22, R10, M10.
    Seppuku by Big-Bro   -   verified     IMG V3
 M21, R22, M22, R10, M10, R26, M26, R15, M15, R13, L12.
FA: Dan Roe - 2006-11-23
    Fuck Hip Hop, Wear a Belt     IMGIMG V3
 A cool variation of the previous problem.<br>
M20, L22, M22, R10, M10, R26, M26, R14, M14, L12.
FA: Dan Roe - 2007-04-00
    Mr Pinchy Takes A Bath     IMGIMGIMG V3
 M20, L22, R25, L28.
    Gut Busting   -   verified     IMG V3
 Follow numbers from 1 to 9.
R1, L2, L3, R2, L5, L6, R4, R7, L8, R9, M9.
    Nut Buster   -   verified V2
 Follow the numbers to 6 then straight up to 10.
    Beer for Breakfast   -   verified     IMGIMG V2
 L5, R16, L using the seam between 23 and 19 (optional), R10, M10.
    Around the moon   -   verified V3
 Follow the numbers to 14 then rinse and repeat.
[IMG]

PMT Area

    Bloody Finger   -   verified     IMGIMG V1
 Sit start on hold one, without using the low ledge to the left. Use the pocket at 2 to get to pocket at 3.
    Pinch me   -   verified     IMG V1
 Sit start at hold 1. Reach up and pinch 4. Head left to pocket at 3.
    White Girls Can't Hump   -   verified     IMG V1
 M1, L5, M5 (gaston), R6, M6
[IMG]

The dyno area

    Ninjas and Hamburgers   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG V3
 To the left of MOBS, left of the 'SIN' graffiti.
Using the side clings on either side, dyno to the jug over the bulge.
    Toothless   -   verified V2
 To the right of the 'SIN' graffiti
Using the undercling just left of FOBS. Using funky feet, deadpoint the little jug above the bulge. If you don't stick it, watch you don't smash your face on the way back down...
[IMG]

Toothless

    Footloose     IMG V3
 Sit start using the pocket for your left hand and the toothless under cling for your right. Go right and up without using the low ledge.
[IMG]

<br>Mr Plow Area.

    Balance Problem V2
 Starting on the small ledge about 2m left of Around The World. Using only your legs (no hands/leaning). Traverse left around the corner to MOBS. Or do it the opposite way.
    Campus V3
 Campus across the jugs to the left of the "Around the World" problem.

Around the World Area

    Drill Hole V4
 Straight up drill hole in the middle of Around The World.
    Drill Hole Right V0
 Up the drill hole using only the right side.
    Drill Hole Left V0
 Up the drill hole using only the left side.
[IMG]

The Rasp Area

    Exterminator     IMGIMGIMG V3
 L13, R9, heel hook 9, R17, L16, R22, M22
    The Big Dyno   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG V7
 M8, M23
How does one grade a dyno this big?
[IMG]

<br>The Rails Area.

    Straight Up V1
 Standing start.
From the crimper up the rails.
    Jump Up V2
 Standing start.
Campus up.
    Popup V2
 Standing start.
Using the pocket out left and the edge. Pop to the second rail and motor up.
[IMG]
(scaled down)


<br>Idiot Wind Area.

    Idiot Wind High Traverse - Left to Right     IMG V4
    Idiot Wind High Traverse - Right to Left V3
    Idiot Wind Low Traverse     IMG V1
 Watch the polished feet.
    Idiot Wind Direct   -   verified     IMGIMG V3
 Standing start from directly below the IW paint marker. Couple of tricky moves to reach the jug way up to the left.
    Shannon and the Cigarette Lighter V4
    Blood on the Tracks V2
 Run up the wall to the jug a couple of feet above the IW marking.
[IMG]

The heel hook.

    Heel Hook V0
 A bit left of Gangbang Wall is a climb marked "Ex". From a sit start heel hook the big jug and rock on up and over.
[IMG]
(scaled down)


<br>Gangbang Area.<br>
If you use a kneebar where it isn't mentioned, minus 4 grades.

    Gangbang Wall (low traverse)     IMGIMGIMG V1
 Use any of the following hold: 1, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 14, 15, 17 in order to get match 21.
    Gangbang Wall (high traverse)     IMGIMGIMG V3
 M1, R5, L2, R8, L34 (optional), R30, M30.
    Gruntologist V3
 No starting from mats or kneebars... M6 (arm bars allowed), R30, M30.
    Drive it like a Volvo     IMGIMGIMG V4
 Funky variety of moves.
Sit start using a hand jamb or the faint rib way behind 4. R5, L2, R30, M30.
    Twister   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG V4
 One of the best dyno's at the crag.
Sort of crouch/squat on the low step at the base of Brisbane Bitter. M16 and dyno to M21.
    Smooth Like A Cow On Roller Skate     IMGIMG V3
 R9, L10, R12 (pinch), M12, R22, L23.
    Pumpalicious   -   verified     IMGIMG V3
 Pumpy little circuit.
From a sit start. L2, R3, kneebar, R pinch/grab the lip below 8, L33, R27, L crimp/undercling the hole below and right of 10 (in line with 9), R to the hold left of 13, match, R21, M21, R20.
[IMG]

Chip-a-hold-away Area

    Chip-a-hold-away   -   verified     IMG V1
 Up the slab at the base of Chip-a-Hold-away using the chipped pockets.
    Jump-a-hold-away   -   verified     IMG V1
 Run at the slab and jump to the big jug, mantle onto the ledge.
    Anti Slab V6
 Match the holds just right of the CH paint marker. Dyno to the big ledge and mantle onto it.
    G Dyno V5
 Match the undercling to the left of the CH paint marker. Dyno to the big ledge and mantle onto it.
    B-Sharp Dyno   -   verified     IMG V4
 Like the G Dyno, except start on the next under cling to the left.
[IMG]

The BARFJ Area

    Be a Robot for Jesus     IMGIMG V3
 The blankish area between CC and MF. Left to right is slightly harder.
    Dance Like A Robot V3
 Run at the face and use the small step/jug below the BARFJ paint marker to dyno to the jug just above the 'O' in the faint LOST graffiti.
    Moonlight Fantasia Traverse   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG V7
 One of the hardest problems on the cliff.
Either direction across the blank and crimpy section between MF and the arete nearing BI. There was also (1984) a very low variant L to R with feet just above the ground. Might be easier now with modern rubber. Only 2 known ticks.
[IMG]

The By Ignorance Area

    By Ignorance V3
 Sit start in corner 2m right of the main arete. Stay low and traverse left on layaways and edges onto arete. Climb directly up the arete to pocket thing on the left. No using the ledge down low on the arete.
    Mini Mantle V0
 Dwarf special?...
Mantle the banned area from a sit start?
    Big heel hook V0
 Sit start 2m right of 'By Ignorance' below 1m high ledge. Chinup, smear and heel hook to stand on top of ledge.
    Mega Traverse   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG V7
 From Playschool all the way down to More Bolts Than Meters.
[IMG]

Cox's Edge

    Cox's Edge   -   verified     IMG V1
 Follow the crack upward to a line of jugs that leads back down the arete. Traverse low back to the crack for a nice little circuit.

Recent Ascents

gremlin G Dynow00t finally got my strength back!free2007-12-19
gremlin Pumpaliciousfree2007-12-11
gremlin Power Gaminfree2007-12-10
gremlin Mr Pinchy Takes A ...Funky footwork fun...free2007-08-17
gremlin Beer for Breakfastfree2007-08-17
gremlin Campusfree2007-08-11
gremlin Smooth Like A Cow ...free2007-07-21
gremlin Heel HookFun little move.flash2007-07-18
gremlin Big heel hookFun move.flash2007-07-18
gremlin Around the moonflash42007-07-18
gremlin Jump-a-hold-awayflash2007-07-18
gremlin Pinch meflash2007-07-18
gremlin Cox's Edgeflash2007-07-18
gremlin Thank God I'm Not ...flash2007-07-18
gremlin White Girls Can't ...flash2007-07-18
gremlin Exterminatorflash2007-07-18
gremlin Fuck Hip Hop, Wear...flash2007-07-18
gremlin Straight Upflash2007-07-18
gremlin Blood on the TracksBored fun...flash2007-07-18
gremlin Moonlight Fantasia...YEY! I finally got it after all these years!!!free2007-07-17
gremlin Drive it like a Vo...free42007-07-16