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The Australian Route Register


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Ruined Castle


Crag:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 07. The Victoria Range
      - 6. Harrop Track South (incl, The Flatiron, Eagles Head, Tortoise Wall & Gilhams Crags)
This area is locked for editing, and its routes are locked. Route additions are not allowed.
Description:One of the best sport crags for the medium grade climber. A multi-tiered cave of superb bulging orange rock with exposure to boot! The novelty of the awesome belay ledges and the via ferrata make a particularly memorable day out. You'll need to climb two pitches to make it up to the really good stuff on the third tier.

This cliff is blessed with shade and cooling breezes until 3pm in summer. It overhangs enough that light drizzle is not much of a problem. In heavy rain go elsewhere.

Location:From start of Tortoise Wall walk-in (the carpark at the water works) cross creek to the north side then walk up the side of the creek following cairns that lead steeply up ridge to arrive below crag about 20m left of Tigers Mitre’s Central Organ. Heavy duty footwear is recommended as it is steep and very rough. All routes are described from left to right and from bottom to top! It is a complex area so refer to the photo topo for more detail.
Rock:   Walk:   5-15 mins
Wet Weather:Damp
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:nmonteith


Issues

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Routes

1 :     Jungle Jellies   -   verified 20m 23mixed
Lower-off
 Right facing jam crack then bulging orange wall and finger crack crux. Finish up easy wall above to rap anchors on ledge. Bring a full rack of wires and a few medium cams.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2006-10-01
2 :     Fruit Punch   -   verified 17m 24sport
Lower-off
 Left facing blank corner then bulging face above with crazy fist jam crux in pocket. A bit dirty. Crux can be avoided by climbing right into Forbidden Fruits at grade 23. Six bolts and lower-off.
FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson - 2006-10-14
3 :     Forbidden Fruits   -   verified     IMGIMG 17m 21sport
Lower-off
 Sustained reachy pockets up wall just right of Fruit Punch. A fantastic warm-up for the upper tier routes. Five FHs and lower-off.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2006-10-01
4 :     Possum Police     IMG 25m 17trad
Lower-off
 Climb corner as for Winter Solstice then move left under bulge. Continue straight up wall on pockets, then upper wall on small edges to ledge.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Sharyn George, Kym Sinclair - 1997-06-22
5 :     Winter Solstice   -   verified 25m 14trad
Rap-anchor
 Starts below a jagged flake on the right end of the wall. Climb small right-facing corner to flake, then around right to finish up slab. Walk off left or rap from tree.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Kym Sinclair - 1997-06-21
6 :     Tiger Mitre’s Central Organ     IMG 20m 18trad
Rap-anchor
 Meaty. In the centre of the wall is an appealing Arapilisean flake crack. Follow this to where it almost joins the shallow corner on the left. Continue right and up to terrace. Be careful of hollow flake in the middle.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Woodfield - 1991-04-00
7 :     A Northern Pharos Kitten 20m 20trad
Rap-anchor
 Cute. Start right of Tiger Mitre’s etc, 2m left Legend Of The Fall. Climb small right facing corner to overlap, step left then up to tree. Rap off tree.

FA: Greg Caire, Geoff Butcher, Tanya Freeman - 1997-06-21
8 :     Legend Of The Fall 15m 13trad
Rap-anchor
 Surprisingly good for a wide crack. Climb the major corner on the right side of the recessed wall.

FA: Kym Sinclair, Sharyn George, Geoff Butcher - 1997-06-22
9 :     Short Sharp Shock   -   verified 15m 20trad
Rap-anchor
 Steeper and nicer than it looks. Climb the obvious steep, short crack 2m right of Legends Of the Fall to ledge.
FA: Greg Caire, Tanya Freeman - 1997-06-22
10 :     The First Crusade (pitch 1)   -   verified     IMG 20m 15sport
Rap-anchor
 The easiest sport route in the Grampians? This is the sport climbers approach pitch to the upper tiers of the Ruined Castle. Starts 4m left of A Good Day Out. Five FHs up slabby marbled wall. Belay off bolt anchor at back of ledge.
Starts 4m left of A Good Day Out.
Five FHs up slabby marbled wall. Belay off anchor at back of ledge.
FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson - 2006-09-02
11 :     A Good Day Out   -   verified 20m 17trad
Rap-anchor
 Delightful left facing finger crack that ends prematurely on slab, then veer left to finish up vegetated rubbish onto ledge.

FA: Greg Caire, Tanya Freeman, Geoff Butcher - 1997-06-22
12 :     The Shortest Day   -   verified 25m 16trad
Rap-anchor
 20m right of A Good Day Out. Climb nice looking crack 3m left of Gorker to under overlap. Exit left. Rap from tree.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Kym Sinclair, Sharyn George - 1997-06-21
13 :     Gorker   -   verified 25m 17trad
Rap-anchor
 The first obvious line on the compact wall left of The Snack bar. Climb small orange corner moving left at bulge. Continue up shallow grey corner.
FA: Michael Hampton - 1991-10-00
    Spent   -   verified     IMG 12m 20sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Left most bolted route on ledge, just left of trad cracks. Layback up flake then delightful orange wall with little vital pockets. Lower off single bolt - proper rap anchor needs installing!
FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt - 2012-04-14
    The Knights Templar     IMG 22m 18trad
Rap-anchor
 Enjoyable, interesting trad climbing and a nice way to get to the 3rd tier. Starts 1m left of Carcassonne and Cassoulet at undercut left leading crack. Pull on and head left up nice crack with decent gear and better holds than expected. Mantle to reach large ledge at about 12m, then move right over Carcassonee and Cassoulet past bush and traverse easily (without any gear past the bush) to the base of the 3rd tier. Be wary of choss near the end.
FA: Josef Goding, Achim Gross - 2007-08-03
14 :     Carcassonne And Cassoulet   -   verified 35m 17trad
Walk-off
 Two pitches of trad adventure squeezed into between the foreboding caves of the Ruined Castle. Starts at polished yellow handcrack at left end of the Second Tier overhangs. Belay in cave halfway up. Step right then up wide layback crack to roof. Traverse out left to finish.
FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker - 2006-09-16
15 :     Slow Roasted Piggy   -   verified 20m 19sport
Lower-off
 Easiest line up through the second tier. Awkward mantle onto ledge then up steep weakness in left side of roof. Ramble up choss to top. Four FHs.
FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon - 2006-10-28
16 :     The First Crusade (pitch 2)   -   verified     IMG 20m 23sport
7 bolts
Lower-off
 Best route up to third tier and an excellent route in its own right. Steep thugging through roof then easy wall to rap rings. The descent rap route from third tier goes down this route.
FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson - 2006-09-02
    Growling Dog (Neil's Closed Project)   -   verified 14m - sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Project - stay off. 3m ceiling on slopers, jugs then two smaller rooflets and stemming corner to finish over lip. 26?
    Game of Thrones   -   verified     IMGIMG 15m 24sport
6 bolts
Back-clean
 Start Up Blood Letter to the third bolt then head straight up past 3 more
fixed hangers to a double bolt belay on a ledge. A touch easier than Blood Letter. Back jump to clean as anchor is only FHs.
FA: Adam Demmert, Ross Taylor, Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson - 2012-04-00
17 :     Blood Letter   -   verified     IMGIMG 17m 24sport
Lower-off
 Big roof excursion. Cuts a rightward leading diagonal line through the big roofs on the right of the second tier. Juggy start to slab, swing out through roof and heel hook rightwards to lip. Crank onto steep juggy headwall then finish up easy slab. 8 FHs and lower-off.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2007-03-04
18 :     Alexius   -   verified 16m 21sport
Lower-off
 Very reachy crux. Starts at the right edge of the second tier at juggy rib. Up this for 3m then swing left onto hanging wall and jug up onto face. Easily up slab to finish as for Blood Letter. Inconsistent.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2007-03-04
19 :     Flanked   -   verified 23m 15trad
Rap-anchor
 Start on rib as for Alexius but continue up this with wide crack on the left. When it gets a bit tricky step right slightly and up horizontals to ledge. Step left off ledge back onto wall and up this for 8m to big ledge and belay.
FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker - 2007-03-04
20 :     War Horse   -   verified     IMG 20m 24sport
Lower-off
 Outrageous positions up the crazy giant plates on the left side of the ledge. Finish up headwall (out of sight of the belayer). 7 RBs.

FA: Neil Monteith & Mark Gould - 2006-10-28
21 :     Siege Machine   -   verified     IMGIMG 18m 26sport
Lower-off
 Straight up the guts of the steepest tallest bit of the crag with some very creative moves in the middle. Slopers, jugs and then final killer headwall. Use a sling on the fifth bolt to avoid the rope cutting plate.
Starts 4m left of The First Crusade.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2006-10-28
22 :     Jerusalem   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 17m 24sport
Lower-off
 Unrelenting steepness. Start at the impressive pillar of prehistoric birdpoo. Scuttle left and out through roof and up endless jugs and steepness above past a few giant heucos. 6 FHs.
FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt - 2006-09-16
23 :     The First Crusade (pitch 3)   -   verified     IMGIMG 17m 23sport
Lower-off
 Superb orange scoop with tricky roof start. Starts directly above rap rings. 7 bolts.
FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson - 2006-07-09
24 :     Christendom   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 17m 22sport
Lower-off
 Brilliant. A easier variant start to The First Crusade that eliminates the brutal roof. Start up heucos on the left edge of the right wall then trend left to join into TFC at its 4th bolt.
FA: Neil Monteith - 2006-10-28
25 :     Emphysema     IMGIMG 15m 25sport
Lower-off
 Probably hard 24 but we couldn’t give ‘another’ route at this crag grade 24. The direct line between First Crusade Pitch 3 and Catapult. Start as for Christendom but instead of traversing off left keeping cranking up the direct line. Quite sustained in the upper half. Six FHs and loweroff.
FA: Neil Monteith & Tim Storey - 2007-02-03
26 :     Catapult   -   verified     IMGIMG 15m 24sport
Lower-off
 A wild dyno! Slopey orange goodness from start to finish up the giant heucos. 5 FHs.
Starts 2m left of Nicea.
FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson - 2006-09-02
27 :     Nicea   -   verified     IMG 15m 21sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Undercling start then up white streak and nice orange bulges.
Starts at end of fixed rope.
FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson - 2006-09-02
    Retaliation   -   verified 12m 19sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Furthest right of the bolted lines, starting just right of fixed rope. Red wall then through juggy bulge and flake.
FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson - 2012-04-00
28 :     Unknown   -   verified 10m 7trad
Rap-anchor
 Quick way to the top if you have a trad rack!
FA: Pete Donald & Jackie Colhan - 2006-10-28
29 :     The First Crusade (pitch 4)   -   verified 8m 20sport
Lower-off
 Short but sweet face pitch right on the top of the crag! 3 FHs and single bolt lower-off.

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