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The Australian Route Register

Muline Cave

  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 07. The Victoria Range
      - 2. Red Rock Road (incl. Muline, Mt Fox, Red Rocks, Far Pavilion, The Tower)
This area is locked for editing, and its routes are locked. Route additions are not allowed.
Description:If you can climb grade 30 this cliff is the mecca of all meccas. One of the 'Big 4' sport crags of Victoria. An amazing impressive cave of mindblowing features.

This is also one of the best "four season" crags in the Grampians, for the same reasons as Sandinista Wall:
- in winter the sun is low in the sky and stays in the north, reaching in under the big overhangs to warm up frosty belayers;
- in summer the sun is high in the sky and both the routes and the base spend most of the day in shade;
- the very steep headwall keeps off the rain.

Naturally, if its cloudy and wintery this crag is miserably cold, but it should at least be dry (and hey, no other crag in Victarctica will be any warmer). Also, the routes have enough slopers that temps in the 30s will be a problem even if you are climbing in the shade (on days like this it's probably better to try The Tower just down the road).

A quick history lesson from Simon Mentz:

"Steve Hamilton dragged me and a few others into the cliff many years before it started being developed. I think he had discovered the place with Baxter and came back raving. I recall him telling me about this line that looked like three Sandinista's stacked on top of each other. I went in there expecting to climb mega-routes routes ground-up. Although the cliff was impressive, I was actually disappointed. Most of the cliff looked ridiculously hard. I remember saying to Steve, 'Where is the triple Sandinista line?' 'In fact, show me one line that we can actually start climbing?' In the end I began rap-bolting the steep line of what is now Krankandangle. I faffed around for ages getting in position, then my hand drill kept getting stuck, and finally when I got a bolt in place... I wasn't happy with it. We eventually walked out and never bothered to return. It wasn't until years later that HB mentioned this amazing cliff that he and Noddy had visited and their suprise at seeing a single bolt halfway up one of the lines, that it all clicked. Malcolm had established a few other routes and asked me whether I still planned to do that particular route. 'Yeah, of course!' (What a crock - I had completely forgotten about it). I took a power drill next time I visited the place and finished bolting the line (replacing my old dud bolt). The ascent was a formality, although I recall Sylvia finding the crux moves a bit reachy and falling off a few times. So there you go... another absolutely brilliant cliff (along with the Gallery) that I visited prior to their development and which I failed to see the potential of!"

Bear in mind that no rebolting has yet occurred at this crag so all bolts are the originals, and some are starting to show their age. There's quite a few spinning hangers, and the hangerless carrot bolts vary from "worrisome" to "completely shit". (Take bolt brackets). Perhaps the greatest concern is that the fixed hanger/bolt combos used are mismatched metal types and suffering from galvanic corrosion as a result, which can be particularly dangerous because of the tendency for the damage to be localised around the metal/metal interfaces, i.e. largely out of sight.

The best warm up is the bouldering around the base of Desert Rose - neither of the "easy" routes are good options if you're still cold and haven't been on them before.

Location:Drive north for a kilometre (approx) from the Mt Fox carpark on Red Rock Rd until you hit the obvious creek crossing (Muline Creek). 50m south of Muline Creek is a carpark on the east side of the road (which, as of Oct 2008, has a big tree fallen across it) - park here. Walk up old fireroad for 100m to T-intersection. Walk right (south) for 50m to rock cairn marking track into Muline. The well worn track is pretty flat at first, but gets progressively steeper. The track is easy to follow and the walk takes about 25 minutes. The track meets the cliff at After Midnight.

The crag is marked "kid friendly" because the base of the cliff is generally ok for kids to hang out, especially around the base of Eye of the Tiger, and Desert Rose (but beware the 6m drop-off separating these areas, just left of Pocket Full of Dreams). However, the walk in will tax little legs (or the adult carrying them!).

Rock:   Walk:   15-30 mins
Wet Weather:Bone Dry
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:nmonteith



1 :     Krankandangle   -   verified     IMGIMG 15m 24sport
5 bolts
 Lap it up. A very popular warm-up with an exciting runout finish.
Its the well chalked left leading roof flake on the far left end of the cave.
FA: Simon Mentz & Sylvia Fitzpatrick - 1997-00-00
2 :     Middle Path   -   verified     IMGIMG 13m 28sport
 A good link up. Avoids the nightmare start of Path Of Yin!
Start up Krankandangle.
At the second bolt step right into Path Of Yin past 1 extra bolt.
FA: Nick Sutter - 2005-00-00
3 :     Path Of Yin   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 14m 30sport
 One of the best in Oz. The only bad thing about this climb is that it was cruelly stolen from HB by a UK darkhorse. This should be on everyone's tick list. They simply don’t get much better.
Start 5m down R of Krankandangle.
Desperate fridge hugging start then steep powerfull jugs to a creative rest. Then put on the good foot work at the finish to gain the same loweroff as Krankandangle. Steep!
FA: Ken Palmer
4 :     Eye Of The Tiger   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 25m 29sport
10 bolts
 Crikey it’s good. Which is better Path Of Yin or Eye Of The Tiger? Truly superb rock architecture, with fair dinkum good moves. Was a lot harder but then some creative thinking enabled the roof passage to be climbed with out too much strength, which produced an enormous increase in it's popularity! Incredibly steep, at least 15m overhung.
Start at the back of the cave beneath the huge "eye" in the roof.
An awful carrot to start then it's all "real" bolts. Put a roller draw on the first FH to avoid bad drag. Extremely delicate slab moves gain the hanging shelf then roof out this to a span crux at the lip. The going price for the critical beta is $100. Superb climbing continues up the steep headwall with potential heartbreaker moves ready to spit you off all the way.
FA: Scott Walter
5 :     Nathan Project   -   verified??m - sport
 Unfinished bolted line in the middle of the blankness, 4 bolts with a bail biner.
6 :     Central Latitudes   -   verified     IMGIMG 40m 30sport
 Lunacy endurance traverse. Your forearms will explode.
FA: Malcolm Matheson - 2004-00-00
    Parisian Thumbs??m31sport
 Start as for CL.
As for Cl but keep going straight up via very reachy moves.
FA: Nick Sutter 2010ish
7 :     Pocket Full Of Dreams   -   verified     IMGIMG 18m 23mixed
2 bolts
 A beautiful gobsmacking line marred by stupid bolting (they were placed on lead!). Hopefully it will soon be rebolted in a manner that allows stick clipping. Until then, you either have to stick clip a wire onto a corroding old carrot (bomber - not!), or bring 10 spotters and a crashmat.
Start 3m R of the base of the rock step separating the upper and lower tiers of the crag.
The sketchy boulder problem start thwarts many attempts. If you get past this, two mangy carrots finally lead you to good trad. Committing finish to chain.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Malcolm Matheson, Norm Booth - 1991-08-31
    Nick Sutter Project??m - sport
 The line of bolts a couple of metres R of Pocket Full of Dreams.
8 :     After Midnight Pitch 1   -   verified     IMGIMG 20m 26mixed
3 bolts
 A strong natural line but a bit chossy in the middle.
The hanging left facing corner in the centre of the crag, where the walk-in track meets the cliff, and about 10m R of PFoD.
Swing in from the left past two FHs then motor up the trad protected corner to small ledge (FH). Traverse scarily left for 6m with no gear to short flake crack finish. There is no lower-off anchor - belay off the two dodgy bolts and rap off the anchor about 10m to the left.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, Keith Lockwood - 1991-08-31
9 :     Snap Dragon   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 20m 30sport
6 bolts
 A great line that was strangely one of the last routes added. Seems so obvious now.
Start 5m L of Desert Rose.
Crimpy powerfully traverse start to join Desert Rose and do it's crux. After this keep moving right into the cool underclings. Nasty last move that will make grown men cry. Enjoy. Classic. A wee bit snappy...
FA: Nathan Hoette - 2005-00-00
10 :     Desert Rose   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 18m 27mixed
4 bolts
 Another superb line. The best 27 in the Grampians - although most think its actually 28!
Start about 8m R of After Midnight.
The start is not too hard but skimpily protected by 1 bolt. Fill up the thin diagonal with microcams and wires, then steeply to 2nd bolt. Crux up the left leaning line with crazy undercling moves that get the heart pumping, then superb easy(er) moves past 2 more bolts and an ok fixed wire.
11 :     Daemon Flower   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 18m 30sport
 The original Vic Ranges hard route. Mega.
Start 5m R of DR.
Power endurance classic, with a heart breaker double dyno move before easy ground is gained.
12 :     Flower Power   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 17m 33sport
 One of the hardest routes in Victoria. A sustained full frontal assault on the highest part of the cave.
Start just R of DF.
FA: Nathan Hoette
13 :     Wild Orchids   -   verified     IMGIMG 17m 30sport
 How many gems does this cliff have?! If your not sick of it yet you should step up to this bad boy! A bit of a zig zag off the deck before the bouldery traverse right. Gain a good rest then climb the amazing rock past some little tricky and airy sections. So good.
FA: Nathan Hoette - 2002-11-01
14 :     Pa Pa Poppy   -   verified 15m 30sport
 A bit of a glue job.
FA: Nathan
15 :     Jumping Geraniums   -   verified     IMG 15m 27sport
 Start up Sullivan Street then bust out left and up bulging wall above.
FA: Nathan Hoette
16 :     Sullivan Street   -   verified     IMG 15m 26mixed
 Very tough bouldery start that has shut down quite a few strong international climbers. Bring a medium cam for the finish moves. Lower off last bolt.
17 :     Unknown   -   verified 15m - mixed
 Left leading roof flake on the far right side of the cave. Carrot bolt at start and hidden FH just below horizontal crack.
    Bikini Revenge     IMG??m31sport
 The only bolted line in this cave.
FFA: Nick Sutter - 2009-00-00
    Nothing Lasts Forever     IMG 8m 22sport
 Short punchy route on left of cave. Nowra like!
FFA: Kent Paterson - 2010-00-00
     Marlon Brando     IMG 10m 25sport
 Through center of cave to odd crux at end. Finishes on flakes.
FFA: Kent Paterson - 2010-00-00
    Blinded by the Lights     IMG 15m 25sport
 Starts on far right of cave and finishes as for NLF. Nice pumper!
FFA: Kent Paterson - 2010-00-00
18 :     Malcolms Upper Route   -   verified     IMG 15m 24sport
 Furthest right of the upper tier routes. Crazy roof climbing. Belay off double FHs. Three FHs on the route itself. No anchor so back jump to clean.
19 :     
After Midnight Pitch 2   -   verified
15m 24mixed
4 bolts
 Choss. Like climbing the worst sea cliff in Sydney. Not sure why Malcolm did this?!
FA: Malcolm Matheson, Keith Lockwood - 1991-09-27
    Tattoos of Memories 40m 16Unknown
 Spectacular stuff. Takes a hanging rib which bisects two big red caves, then a sweeping blade arete above. The caves feature the roof climb Path of Garth.
Starts: On big cliff down and right of main Muline Crag. From the car, walk up track as far as the second rocky outcrop. Skirt right 50m around base of outcrop to cliff.
FA: Tim and Keith Lockwood (alt) - 2006-02-17
P1(20m, 16)A ramp leads out the right side of a scoop. Continue up orange bulging wall to base of rib.
P2(20m, 16)Rib, then arete. Walk off left.
    Some Like It Hot 10m 18trad
 Just along from and at right-angles to the right-hand end of the cave terrace is a small wall with an overhanging left side.
Pull onto wall at right-hand end of overhanging section and go up, veering left.
FA: Edwin Young, Kate Hilton - 1995-03-05
    Too Hot to trot 10m 18trad
 Up middle seam right of Some Like It Hot. Follow grassy, right-leading crack, then up.
FA: Michael Hampton, Rhyl Shaw, Kate Hilton, Edwin Young - 1995-03-05

Recent Ascents

manacubus Krankandangleflash2009-10-01
manacubus Pocket Full Of Dre...flash2009-10-01
manacubus Desert Rosepink-point272009-10-01
walpolem Krankandanglefree242008-11-14
phil_nev Krankandanglered-point2008-07-08
phil_nev Pocket Full Of Dre...flash2008-07-08

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