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The Australian Route Register


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Hollywood Bowl - Satyricon Wall


Crag:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 07. The Victoria Range
      - 2. Red Rock Road (incl. Muline, Mt Fox, Red Rocks, Far Pavilion, The Tower)
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:Good climbing in the 21-24 department. Thanks to Wade Stevens and Tim Day for the great line drawing.
Location:The rhomboid-shaped wall R of Hollywood Bowl. There is a roof at 3/4 height on the L ar�te and a distinctive crescent-shaped open-book corner on the R. Wings Of Desire and Citizen Kane both start at ground level, while most of the remaining routes begin off the terrace at the top of the large L-facing corner.
Rock:   Walk:   30-60 mins
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:jgoding


Issues

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Routes

A :     Citizen Cane - Wings of Desire - LHV     IMG 50m 22trad
Rap-anchor
 Airy traverse. May be a little easier if you are shorter than 5'9" / 170cm
FA: Josef Goding, Anthony Pattison - 2007-06-17
P1(25m, 16)As for Citizen Cane to ledge belay. Take lots of wires.
P2(25m, 22)Up the fantastic steep juggy corner of Wings of Desire , through right side of roof. Traverse the lip of the roof left (good medium cams, but way pumpy to place) for around 5-6m to open book corner. Wide steep bridging on good holds. Left under small roof to big ledge belay. Roped scramble off left (approx 15m), then over to either the abseil station above Citizin Cane or the Main Wall abseil station.
1 :     
Wings Of Desire     IMGIMG
50m 23trad
Rap-anchor
 A high-quality route. A repeat thought it more like 21, 1 star, not sustained with loose rock.
Start 15m R of Bubbles of Fantasy.
FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day (alt) - 1991-02-00
P1(25m, 18)Up large left-facing corner then main wall, passing a small right-facing corner. At its top, step left, then diagonally right to orange sickle. Up jugs and right-facing corner to belay on ledge.
P2(25m, 23)Left-facing corner to roof, boldly through this (#3.5 cam at lip), then up and diagonally left to rest on arete (fixed wire). Up, step left and up wall, finishing through bulge on left.
    Kickback     IMGIMG 35m 24mixed
Rap-anchor
 Sporty incuts up a sustained face, then exciting trad climbing up a steep weakness. Starts about 8m right of Wings of Desire and 3m left of Trust. Traverse left across pocketed wall (two FHs) then up the face above past horizontal break (cams) and onto face proper. Edge for pleasure on sideways sloping rails (three FHs) to crux move right into seam crack. Up this crack with a dogleg left past a huge fang for 20m to top trad belay. Full trad rack to #2 SLCD required.

FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie - 2006-04-09
2 :     Citizen Kane     IMGIMG 50m 22trad
Rap-anchor
 Sustained and absorbing face climbing. Excellent protection available. Start a few metres L of Wing of Desire. 1) 25m (16) Straight up face, moving slightly R at diagonal, then up to belay at R end of ledge. 2) 25m (crux) Traverse 2m R, then directly up the crack-line to the R end of striped mini-roof. Through this to overlap, and directly up veering slightly L to finish at the chain.
FA: Tim Day, Ylva Wakefield - 1996-04-00
    Trust 25m 21mixed
Rap-anchor
 Start as for Faraway so Close. Up then diagonally L past broken niche. Up R of ‘gargoyle’, finishing R of mossy streak. Join Faraway so Close 4m below top.
FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day - 1996-09-00
    Faraway So Close     IMGIMG 24m 22mixed
Rap-anchor
 Appearances can deceive. Excellent climbing.
Step L on to the face from the large broken block below the R arête, and go diagonally L up to broken niche. Up (2 FHs), to finish up weakness L of the large cave.
FA: Tim Day, Wade Stevens - 1996-09-00
    The Pillow Book??m - mixed
 The open-book crescent. Directly up off the block (RPs and other wires) to base of crescent. Move L past BR then back R above roof.
FA: Tim Day, Wade Stevens - 1996-12-00
    The Unbelievable Truth 24m 23mixed
Rap-anchor
 Step up R off block (RPs), then up (BR, FH), to join The Pillow Book at base of crescent. Step R and up R side of arête (BR) to top.
FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day - 1996-12-00


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