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The Australian Route Register

Emu Rock

  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 07. The Victoria Range
      - 2. Red Rock Road (incl. Muline, Mt Fox, Red Rocks, Far Pavilion, The Tower)
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:Fantastic looking west facing vertical wall.
Location:Above Muline Crag. Best aproached from Muline, and just keep heading up the left end of the crag, scramble up an easy corner and then hack through about 10mins of hakia (prickly!!!) Park your car about 200m south of Muline Creek on Red Rock Road near a small clearing. Head east on old 4WD track for 5mins to road. Turn right, then on your left after about 50-100m is a cairned well established track. Follow this for around 20mins until you reach Muline Crag. Waltz up the left end and scramble left up a corner, then head south east for about 10 minutes through prickly scrub which is steep in places until you reach the cliff. Descent: there are 3 abseil options. 1) 35m. ~10m left of the top of Whipping Boy is a large bollard with slings and a ring on it. 2) 55m marked on cliff topo. 3) 45m, slings on bollard approx 3m right and down from Patagonia P2 belay. Apparently you can walk off - this would be epic!
Rock:   Walk:   30-60 mins
Wet Weather:Soaked
Kid friendly:NoAuthor:jgoding


Map One

(scaled down)

Map One

(scaled down)


    Nile 40m 13trad
 Left of Whipping Boy is a big orange wall. Nile takes the right edge of this wall.
FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood (alt) and Norm Booth - 2005-04-15
P1(20m, 13)Climb slabby wall trending up right until below overhang. Pull around left side of overhang and up juggy arete to ledge.
P2(20m, 13)Up left and up wall to the left of black slab. Step right to ledge. Abseil off bollards.
    Quick Draw McGraw 53m 20trad
 This route takes an obvious crack through a roof 4m off the ground a few metres L of Homework. 1) 18m Up through the roof (crux) to a ledge. Traverse L to belay in a small cave. 2) 20m Traverse out R from cave, and up R-ward leading flake/crack to ledge. 3) 15m Up on jugs to the top.
FA: Jeremy Boreham, Mike Wust (alt) - 1993-03-20
    Homework 55m 18trad
 Start 12m along from L end of undercut section.
1) 20m Up arete and step L into L facing corner then diagonally L up steep wall to join Quick Draw McGraw at belay ledge. 2) 35m Up rotten corner to top (or last pitch of Quick Draw McGraw).
FA: Mike Wust, Wayne Maher (alt) Jeremy Boreham, Jerry Maddox - 1993-03-20
Route 1 :     Whipping Boy     IMGIMG 80m 16trad
 Excellent adventure climbing following the obvious curving line on the L end of the cliff. Generally sound rock and good holds compensate for the tasty steepness.
Start at L end of wall at corner under roof. 1) 30m (crux) Up, then move out L to pass overhang. There’s a couple of steps back R to follow the line. Belay on ledge at half height. 2) 30m Continue up curving line to steep exit through notch. 3) 20m Scramble to the top or walk L along terrace to abseil bollard.
FA: Chris Baxter, Maureen Gallagher (alt) Sue Baxter - 1987-10-10
    Wallscrawl     IMG 87m 16trad
 The first of three routes which are direct variants of Whipping Boy.
Start 6m R of Whipping Boy. 1) 37m (crux) Climb blunt arete under R end of roof. Pass roof and traverse L to line about 3m R of Whipping Boy. Up to SHB level with Whipping Boy’s belay ledge. 2) 30m Straight up, then veer R on buckets, before going up again to join Whipping Boy at the head-wall. 3) 20m As for Whipping Boy.
FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt) - 1988-02-27
    Sheet Of Water     IMG 87m 17trad
 The second pitch was first led in driving rain. A variant on Wallscrawl.

1) 37m As for Wallscrawl but instead of traversing L after the roof go straight up and slightly R to orange crack. Up to SHB level with Wallscrawl and Whipping Boy’s belays. 2) 30m Straight up to join Wallscrawl and Whipping Boy. 3) 20m As for Wallscrawl and Whipping Boy.
FA: James and Melanie McIntosh (alt) - 1992-05-17
    Mother Superior 90m 16trad
 More of the same with less pro.
1) 30m (crux) As for Wallscrawl to R end of roof. Veer up R to niche, then steeply up and slightly L to SHB at dyke. 2) 40m Straight up the seam above to eventually join Whipping Boy at head-wall exit. 3) 20m As for Whipping Boy etc.
FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt) - 1989-05-07
    Sufferers’ Palestine 90m 18trad
 1) 35m Start as for Sahara but traverse L across steep wall where Sahara veers R. Through friable section, then up to wall between Mother Superior and Sahara. Face, then vague runnel at 15m, wall. HB at dyke. 2) 25m Directly up wall until it eases, then veer L to meet Whipping Boy at weakness in head-wall. 3) Roped scrambling to top.
FA: Anton Bartlett, Simon Murray (alt) - 1995-06-25
    Sahara     IMGIMG 80m 17trad
 Sustained and great.
1) 35m Climb the R wall of the little corner just R of Wallscrawl, moving R on to the vague arete after the friable section. Up and R on to main wall, then up through smooth section and a little L into the line of weakness which leads to a SHB at central of three deep cracks just above the first main dyke. 2) 25m Continue steeply up the line to tilted horizontal line. Step L, then climb cracks above to a patch of grass, which is just below the second dyke. Head up and R to crack/slot, then straight up¾crossing horizontal that becomes overlap further R¾to a dramatic exit L via first weakness R of Whipping Boy etc. 3) 20m Roped scrambling.
FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt) Geoff Gledhill - 1989-03-25
    Cyclops     IMGIMGIMG 85m 17trad
 Goes where Sahara should have gone.

1) 35m As for Sahara. 2) 30m Up and slightly R to distinctive ‘eye’ just below second dyke. Go straight up to overlap and pull through to weakness in head-wall. Up to exit at notch, which is two notches along (R) from Whipping Boy’s exit. 3) 20m Roped scrambling to top.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Parrish Robbins - 1990-10-17
    Patagonia     IMGIMG 126m 16trad
 Climbing in superb positions up the most imposing line on the wall. The first ascent was completed in true Patagonian conditions; gale force winds, torrential rain and hail.
Start about 8m R of Sahara, between the overhanging, L-facing corner and the giant boulder at the foot of the cliff. 1) 46m Steep climbing up the juggy buttress and over the overlap leads to the line which is followed to the first dyke. Step R and follow the next crack until it is possible to go back L to the original crack. Follow crack to SHB at second dyke. 2) 25m Go straight up above the belay, following the line a little L until it peters out. A tricky move leads to the foot of the distinctive V-slot which is a landmark on the face. Go up slot until a dramatic traverse can be made to the R arete 3) 35m Jugs to the top. This pitch can be eliminated by abseiling (slings - 45m) from just below and right of P2 belay - three stars.
FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt) - 1988-07-16
    Patagonia direct finish     IMGIMG 60m 16trad

2a) 30m Go straight up above the belay, following the line a little L until it peters out. Instead of moving R into the shallow slot/corner, move L and climb the wall direct to the overlap. Pull through and climb the prominent crack which trends R through the head-wall. 3a) 20m Up easily.
FA: Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson - 1991-04-03
    Drung South     IMGIMG 60m 21trad
 Hotter than the Sahara. Starts just R of Patagonia at L edge of giant boulder. Either long ropes or a short first pitch would avoid the need for second and leader climbing simultaneously. Up the juggy crack to a seam, The wall is now climbed direct, veering slightly R at half height to a knee bar at the overlap. Step L and continue up the upper wall to the top, crossing Patagonia’s original second pitch traverse on the way.
FA: Parish Robbins, Keith Lockwood - 1990-10-17
    Sorority Babes 145m 18trad
 1) 30m From bottom R toe of the wall, climb intermittent, diagonal crack system up wall to above small, friable cave. Veer L up wall on vague dyke below base of large cave. HB where rising dyke meets major horizontal dyke. 2) 50m (crux) Traverse L across wall along dyke to HB on L arete of face. 3-4) 65m As for Whipping Boy.
FA: Simon Murray, Tim Peterson (alt) - 1995-11-30

Recent Ascents

timw Patagonia free2006-00-00

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