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The Australian Route Register

Tortoise Wall

  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 07. The Victoria Range
      - 6. Harrop Track South (incl, The Flatiron, Eagles Head, Tortoise Wall & Gilhams Crags)
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Rock:   Walk:   5-15 mins
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:nmonteith



    Done To (Golden) Darth 25m 18trad
 At the left-hand side of the wall is an orange recess. This climb was originally called Golden Gaytime.
Climb the weakness to the overhang and move right to the arete. Up to ledge and walk off.
FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Woodfield - 1991-04-00
Me Old Mate Darth
35m 23trad
 Bold, with a crux close to the ground with a nearby tree ready to puncture your kidneys.
Start on the left side of an arete at the left side of the cliff, 10 metres left of the flake of Aimless Blade. When over the bulge, reach right and climb straight up the wall above.
FA: Kevin Lindorff (solo) - 1983-04-02
    You're Busted 30m 24trad
 Seamed corner right of Me Old Mate Darth, then wall to overlap. Step right onto slabby dish and up.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Michael Hampton - 1991-04-00
    Aimless Blade     IMG 45m 16trad
 Start at right-leading flake towards left side of cliff.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Gary Wills - 1981-12-00
P1(15m, 16)Climb the flake and move up to a tree.
P2(30m, 14)Step left and up thin cracks. Step right to a break in the overhang, pull over and go up.
    Hot Cross 25m 17trad
 Start about 25 metres right of Aimless Blade ata wide crack.
Climb face a couple of metres right of the wide crack. When the easier slab is reached, drift leftish to tree.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman Easter 1988
    Little Escapes     IMG 25m 16trad
 Obvious orange corner starting off a ledge, just a few metres right of Hot Cross.
Up technical corner to middle of roof and traverse easily left to stance. Scramble off left to rap tree on Hot Cross. There was originally a second pitch up corner and bulge but it adds little value.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Peter Watling - 1981-03-00
    The Voyage Of Vasco Pyjama     IMG 35m 17trad
 A whimsical journey. Start 3 metres right of Little Escapes at a thin line just left of arete.
Thin line then step right to shallow corner on arete. Up corner to ledge just right of large roof. Step left above the roof (?large cam handy) and climb leftwards up the face.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Ian Anger - 1985-03-00
    Have I Ever Told You 35m 12trad
 Enjoyable. Start just right of Vasco below a crack.
Up to and up crack. Over bulge and easily up to a ledge. Now straight up wall above. Move left and up to finish.
FA: Meg Sleeman, Kieran Loughran - 1988-00-00
Just In Passing
40m 22trad
 Bold in parts but escapable.
Start 3 metres right of Have I Ever Told You, 2 metres left of the head of the gully.
Go straight up the wall to a horizontal break below a thin seam up a smooth slab. Traverse 3 metres right along the break then go up the face via a scary rock-over. Continue directly up to obvious right-leaning corner. Climb corner and step left. Hard moves up shallow diagonal groove and then go straight up the wall.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Ian Anger - 1985-05-00
    Soft Shell     IMG 35m 16trad
 Thrilling pitch at head of descent gully.
Climb the left edge of the slab to a tree. Bridge short corner behind tree to ledge. Hand-traverse right to the undercut arete which is followed to the top.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Heather Phillips, Stephen Burke. Easter 1985
    Hatehakea 30m 8trad
 Juggy wall just left of the creek.
Start at shallow corner by creek and climb just left of the arete. At the big ledge move left and continue to the top.
FA: Michael Hampton, Jeff Robertson, Rhyl Shaw
    The Boys That Were Naughty     IMG 15m 24trad
 An entertaining problem with an exciting finish; cruelly stolen from Ferret.
Start at the steep flake on the left side of the overhanging wall left of the obvious chimney/cleft.
Start up the flake and finish up the thin seam.
FA: Simon Mentz, James Falla - 1989-10-00
    Bad Boys     IMGIMG 15m 26sport
6 bolts
 Demanding route up overhanging wall right of The Boys That Were Naughty. Boulder to or stick-clip first bolt. One of the bolts is actually a peg; probably should be replaced with a bolt.
FA: Glenn Tempest - 1994-04-00
    Up Through The Down Door 15m 24mixed
 Somewhat contrived.
Bridge the cleft right of Bad Boys for a few moves then traverse left along the horizontal (peg runner) to finish as for Bad Boys.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Stuart Imer - 1991-04-00
    Turtle Diary 15m 21trad
 Not the most appealing route here. Thin seam at edge of chimney cleft, 2 metres left of Tortology until it meets the cleft. Heave around right and up.
FA: Greg Aimer, Christine Freestone - 1993-02-00
    Tortology     IMG 25m 23trad
 Quite thin climbing up a steely-grey "slab". Take lots of small wires.
Thin seam up grey face right of chimney-cleft.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran - 1983-04-00
    Tortoise     IMGIMG 25m 18trad
 The vague arete 6 metres right of the chimney-cleft. Originally done as two pitches but pitch two is rarely repeated and is described separately (Turning Turtle
Follow enjoyable arete to terrace.
FA: Ed Neve, Gary Wills - 1981-12-00
    An Other 25m 23mixed
 Contrived route with some bolts just right of Tortoise.
FA: Geoff Little
    Turning Turtle 25m 20trad
 This is the rarely done second pitch of Tortoise
Start at the belay at the top of Tortoise.
Move right and up to the right side of the distinct prow. Traverse left below the prow and up the corner above.
FA: Ed Neve, Gary Wills - 1981-12-00
    Yurtle The Turtle     IMGIMG 25m 25mixed
1 bolts
 Sustained and intricate climbing on the immaculate wall right of Tortoise.
Climb the best bit of the wall past a bolt then veer left to easier ground.
FA: James Falla, Simon Mentz - 1989-10-00
    Yurtle The Turtle Direct Finish     IMGIMGIMG 25m 27mixed
2 bolts
 The obvious finish to this great route. Instead of veering off left after the first bolt continue straight up past a second bolt.
FA: Steve Monks - 1993-00-00
    Snail 50m 19trad
 Good first pitch but not much known about second pitch.
Start at short chimney with rotten chockstone right of the smooth wall.
FA: Ed Neve, Gary Wills - 1981-12-00
P1(25m, 19)Up onto rotten chockstone and take left-hand line to terrace.
P2(25m, 19)Move up right and climb diagonal crack-line.
    Slug     IMG 50m 18trad
 Again, a good first pitch and vaguely described second pitch. Start at the chimney as for Snail.
FA: Ed Neve, Gary Wills - 1981-12-00
P1(25m, 18)Onto the rotten chockstone and take right-hand line to terrace.
P2(25m, 18)Up a series of walls to the top.
    Everything's On Fire     IMG 25m 20trad
 Start 8 metres right of Slug
Gain the right-leading flake by a traverse left from the easy ramp. Up the line and exit vertically to the belay ledge.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Stephen Bourke, Heather Phillips. Easter 1985
    Floaties     IMG 25m 17trad
 A very fine pitch. The unpopular second pitch is written up separately.
FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Kevin Lindorff - 1983-04-00
    Floaties Part II 25m 22trad
 The original second pitch of Floaties is much harder than the first and is not popular though it's not too bad. Start on the ledge a few metres right of the belay on Floaties, beneath the right-hand end of the roofs. There used to be a stump hereabouts.
Balance on the stump, cut loose and pull into the line which tends right.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton - 1983-04-00

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