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The Australian Route Register


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Curiosity Crag


Crag:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 07. The Victoria Range
      - 6. Harrop Track South (incl, The Flatiron, Eagles Head, Tortoise Wall & Gilhams Crags)
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:Curiosity Crag is situated in a shady amphitheatre next to Slander Gully with an excellent range of climbs, especially in the grades 18-25. The crag is very well sheltered from the sun and wind making climbing possible on the steeper south facing orange wall (Curiosity Wall) and on the overhanging sports routes (Tarzan Wall) in almost all weather conditions. Access is very easy and while the atmosphere is relaxing, the climbing should get your pulse pumping. The first routes recorded in the amphitheatre were Night Owl Theatre (14!!), climbed by Peter Treby in 1985, and Deadly Earnest (17) by Gary Lyons in 1993. Since 2003 over 25 new routes have been developed. The long routes up Curiosity Wall are reminiscent of the Blue Mountains, with some of the best sustained face climbing in the Grampians. Most climbs are mixed routes – containing both bolts (stainless steel) and natural gear. Until the guide is all transfered onto this website check out the pdf on Chockstone: http://www.chockstone.org/guide.htm
Location:Follow the Waterworks Track, which runs off the Glenelg River Road for 4.4km from the start; then take the steep, 4WD track sharply on the right for 100 meters; a double cairn marks the walking track on the left, heading uphill 200m to the crag. If the Waterworks Track is open, walking time is only a few minutes. If the Waterworks Track is closed; park at the gated track 700m north of No.1 Creek on Harrop Track. Walk up 600m to the Waterworks Track, turn left and follow it for 1.2km to the 4WD track, around 20-30 minutes walk.
Rock:   Walk:   <5 mins
Wet Weather:Damp
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:jgara


Issues

Map One

[IMG]

Map One

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Routes

1 :     
Big Nose   -   verified
15m 18trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 At the nose at left end of left wall of grotto, where the descent track meets the wall.
FA: Rob Booth, Jill Gara, Ross Timms - 2003-04-12
2 :     
Sticky Beak   -   verified
12m 17trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Short with lack of protection, watch for loose hollow block at the start. Very ordinary.
In the middle of the second tor down from Bug Powder Dust.
Climb past loose block up shallow unprotected crack.
FA: JIll Gara, Michael O'Reilly, Tuesday Phelan - 2003-03-12
3 :     Bug Powder Dust   -   verified     IMG 27m 18mixed
Rap-anchor
 Can be done in 2 pitches, belay from the large ledge at half way. May add another bolt.
On the left of the grey arete.
Follow 2 BR to ledge (possible belay). Straight up past another bolt for 6m then step right to finish up juggy arête. Anchors to descend to the right on top of The Extension Lead or walk off back.
FA: Jill Gara, Michael O'Reilly, Robin Holmes - 2003-02-21
4 :     The Generator Route   -   verified     IMG 12m 22sport
Rap-anchor
Toprope
 6 meters right of Bug Powder Dust.
Three bolts to ledge and DDB.
FA: Rob Booth, Steve Chapman - 2003-05-08
5 :     Screaming Trees     IMGIMG 25m 26mixed
Rap-anchor
 Just right of The Generator Route.
Up past 2 FH’s and wires to horizontal break. Arrange gear then right up to 3rd FH. Thin moves over bulge brings some relief and good pro in seam. More hard moves over small roof to buckets. Traverse left to belay.
FA: Steve Chapman, Steven Wilson - 2003-05-08
5 :     Variant of Screaming Trees   -   verified     IMG 12m 21mixed
Rap-anchor
 As for Screaming Trees.
First part of Screaming Trees, past 2 FH and wires to horizontal break, traverse left to the anchors on the Generator.
6 :     The Extension Lead   -   verified     IMGIMG 12m 18sport
Rap-anchor
Toprope
 Exposure plus, and linked with The Generator Routes this makes an awesome long pitch.
At halfway ledge two meters right of Bug Powder
Clip the carrot on Bug Powder Dust and follow the 3FHs up right on the arête. (25m rap)
FA: Rob Booth, Ross Timms - 2006-03-12
7 :     I'm Black and I'm Proud   -   verified 15m 20trad
Rap-anchor
Toprope
 Variant finish to Bug Powder Dust.
As for 2nd pitch of Bug Powder Dust.
Climb the left side of the pale central streak directly through top bulge. Swing right to top out. Blackness courtesy of the previous week’s Vicparks “controlled burn”.
FA: Will Monks, Nic Cotton, Cameron Barrett, Michael O'Reilly - 2003-10-30
8 :     Bird's Nest Soup   -   verified 10m 16trad
Walk-off
 5m left of the bolt on Bug Powder Dust ledge.
Straight up block on rounded jugs left of the arete. Tricky move at the end to gain ledge. Easily accessed from the descent gully.
FA: Tuesday Phelan, Jill Gara - 2003-01-04
9 :     Night Owl Theatre   -   verified     IMGIMG 30m 18trad
Walk-off
 The original route on the cliff."Hal Todd would be proud of this. The Del Monte of climbing." (Edited version of original description)
At the line that splits the wall.
Climb crack, at the overhang, traverse right and finish up the right hand crack. Some loose rock. Take twin ropes or long slings, could be done in 2 pitches, with a belay at the end of the traverse.
FA: Peter Treby, Andrew Webb, Neil Barr. - 1985-06-10
10 :     
Deadly Earnest
35m 17trad
 A scary girdle traverse on friable rock.
At sandy cleft right of Night Owl Theatre.
FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford, Nick Tapp - 1993-01-31
P1(10m, 17)Up sandy cleft with no runnners.
P2(25m, 17)Crux, step across left, around arete, gingerly down and continue left to the welcome ledge.
11 :     Careful With That Axe, Liam   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 30m 23mixed
Walk-off
 Sustained face climbing
5 meters right of Night Owl Theatre.
Directly up the wall past 6FHs. Medium wires and cams protect the shallow grey corner heading right to last FH. Launch up left on jugs.
FA: Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes - 2003-02-21
12 :     Cat Power   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 36m 24sport
Walk-off
 A clever link up that takes in the best parts of two great routes. Endurance climbing on great rock.
Start as for Careful With That Axe Liam.
A single rope will suffice if you take a few 60cm draws. Climb to the 4th FH, then traverse right 5m past FH to join Curiosity. Continue up past 2 more FHs to break. Back left for 2m then finish up past 3FHs as for Curiosity.
FA: Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman - 2006-03-12
13 :     Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat   -   verified     IMGIMG 30m 25sport
Walk-off
 Sustained varied moves on excellent rock.
5m right of Careful With That Axe, Liam.
The crux can be solved left or right of the 2nd FH. Past 3 more FHs to horizontal break. Move left 2m and over grey bulge past another 3 FHs to final overhang and the happy jugs.
FA: Steve Chapman, Brian Gray - 2003-05-12
14 :     Catatonia     IMG 32m 23mixed
Walk-off
 Backs off a little on arete, but keeps you working till the end.
8m right of Curiosity on the black streak.
Up to 2nd FH taking heed of the flexible block on the left. Head left then back right above 2nd FH to gain a rest in the grey corner. Swing around right of the arête to FH and up to the long blunt grey arête above. Climbing is often just left of the arête with adequate gear on the arête proper.
FA: Steve Chapman, Jill Gara - 2006-03-12
15 :     The Lynx Effect   -   verified     IMGIMG 30m 23trad
Walk-off
 Absorbing climbing directly up the arête to the highest point on the buttress. Double up on small wires, a few small cams are handy, despite appearances protection is good.
Starts in the chasm 15m right of Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat
Up the steep fracture for 8m and finger traverse leftwards 3m to rest on the grey arête (belay possible to eliminate drag). Then directly up the grey arete.
FA: Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara - 2003-07-23
16 :     Cat Scratch Fever     IMG 30m 23trad
Walk-off
 Start as for Lynx Effect.
Follow Lynx Effect for 8m to where it traverses left. Arrange gear and launch straight up on crimps. Watch your back on the wall behind if you fall. Continue directly up grey wall.
FA: Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes - 2003-10-30
17 :     A Bridge Too Far 18m 17trad
 Stretch Your calves before you start.
Starts 5m right of Cat Scratch Fever at end of chasm.
Bridge up using crack for protection and traverse right at the top of the big chockstone.
FA: Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes - 2003-10-30
1 :     
Separation Anxiety   -   verified
15m 20mixed
Rap-anchor
 Novelty climbing through overhang, lack of protection at start.
Runs up centre of the wall at the top of the grotto through the orange overhang.
Up edges on slab to stance below overhang, veer left then up to anchor.
FA: Rob Booth, Jill Gara - 2003-04-19
2 :     Ab Slab   -   verified     IMG 15m 23sport
Rap-anchor
 Right of Separation Anxiety.
Follow line of rings.
FA: Brendon and Chris Abernethy - 2004-02-10
1 :     
Valentine's Day Massacre
25m 22trad
Walk-off
 An entrant for the worst of the worst... Crappy line, dodgy rock, ground fall potential, its all here.
Left of corner on the track before Paler Shade of White just past the big log.
FA: Steve Chapman, Jill Gara (alternative leads) - 2004-02-14
P1(17m, 22)Unprotected hardish moves on dodgy holds lead to jugs at overhang where the gear is not good and the moss begins. Continue to belay at big ledge. Smell the roses.
P2(8m, 19)Continue up left side of orange wall via a most awkward slopey mantle off the deck.
2 :     
A Paler Shade Of White   -   verified
22m 21trad
Walk-off
 Bold climbing leftwards along the rising traverse. Double ropes are useful.
At weakness 6m left of Traditional Arrangement.
Climb leftward along rising traverse. A small wire can be found, low down, two thirds along the traverse. Continue up the easy arête to finish at the large ledge. Climb off around to the left or right to Moonlight Wall.
FA: Michael O’Reilly, Jill Gara, Robin Holmes - 2003-03-04
3 :     Traditional Arrangement   -   verified 13m 18trad
Other
 Harder than it looks.
At the right leaning hand/fist crack in middle of the wall at ground level.
Follow the crack to the large ledge at half height. From here you can access the next 4 climbs.
FA: Michael O’Reilly, Jill Gara, Robin Holmes - 2003-02-21
4 :     Gerni To The Centre Of The Earth 12m 22mixed
Rap-anchor
Toprope
 Will clean up with traffic.
Starts on the ledge at FH 2m left of Controlled Burn.
Up to shallow corner to rap anchor.
FA: Steve Chapman, Rob Booth - 2006-04-15
5 :     Controlled Burn     IMG 14m 22mixed
Rap-anchor
Toprope
 Starts below the bolt in the middle of the face.
Climb left past bolt then right to gear placement. Committing climbing to top on slopey bulges. Take small cams and wires.
FA: Robin Holmes, Steve Chapman - 2003-10-30
6 :     Moonlight Mile   -   verified     IMG 11m 20trad
Rap-anchor
 Starts approx. 2 to 3m right of bolt on Controlled Burn and 4m left of the right arête.
Climb directly up the wall, to the left end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the short corner/flake and exciting wall above.
FA: Michael O’Reilly, Jill Gara - 2003-03-04
7 :     Emotional Rescue   -   verified     IMG 13m 22trad
Walk-off
 Starts as for Moonlight Mile
Climb upwards diagonally right to the right end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the horizontal breaks to the small overlap/rooflet near the right arête. Committing moves directly up the wall above (crux).
FA: Michael O’Reilly, Jill Gara - 2003-03-04
1 :     Tarzan's Swing   -   verified     IMGIMG 16m 22sport
Rap-anchor
Toprope
 Overhanging fun jug fest.
Starts below bolt 3m right of arête.
Follow grey wall and arête past ring bolts to lower off.
FA: Robin Holmes, Steve Chapman - 2003-03-04
2 :     Densei   -   verified     IMGIMG 15m 24sport
Rap-anchor
 4m right of Tarzan's Swing.
Right side of scoops, 6 RB’s to DRB lower off.
FA: Ramon Francis, Philip Bogenschütz & Brendon Abernethy - 2003-10-26
3 :     The Organiser   -   verified     IMG 12m 25sport
Rap-anchor
 15m R of Tarzan Swing.
Up left side of scoops. 5 RB’s to DRB lower off.
FA: Brendon Abernethy - 2003-10-26
    Grease Nipples 35m 20Unknown
 Good traverse leads to great final crack.
Start under the huge block that leans against the left edge of the wall, 15-20 metres right of
FA: FA: Louise Shepherd, Nyrie Dodd did the finish as part of Work The Meat. Complete ascent : Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman. Easter 1988
P1(10m, 9)Climb up through a hole to the top of the block and then up to terrace.
P2(15m, 19)Traverse right along the brek to the vertical line and up a couple of moves to a hanging belay.
P3(10m, 20)Crack to top.
    Work The Meat 30m 22trad
 Trench climbing par excellence.
Start at the right-hand side of the major horizontal break that Grease Nipples traverse from the left..
Traverse left along the break and finish up the line in the centre of the face.
FA: Louise Shepherd, Nyrie Dodd - 1985-11-00
    Filet De Bouef 20m 18Unknown
 Start at foot of knobbly wall on right of scungy corner.
Up wall, steeply at first then easily to a ledge at 8 metres. Step left and continue up the steep wall.
FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone - 1993-02-13
    Petit Dejeuner 12m 13trad
 Start as for Fillet De Boeuf
Climb up to ledge at 8 metres then move 3 metres right and climb crack-line running between left chimney and right arete.
FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone - 1993-02-13
    
Hot Croissant
10m 15trad
 Marginal pro.
Start on grey wall 25 metres right of Petit Dejeuner
FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone - 1993-02-27

Recent Ascents

tranceguitar The Extension Leadonsight2010-01-26
tranceguitar Denseiawesome!! loved it, well bolted, fun moves very enjoyable, highly recommendedfree2010-01-26
tranceguitar Tarzan's SwingCould be bolted allot better, ring bolts at the top and another bolt in the middle would make the route allot better safer.onsight2010-01-23
phil_nev The Generator Routeonsight2008-07-08
phil_nev Tarzan's Swingflash2008-07-08
phil_nev Denseiflash2008-07-08
tranceguitar Bug Powder DustRuns very close to other 18.onsight0000-00-00
tranceguitar The Generator Routefunfree0000-00-00

Copyright, ACA, 2012