The Australian Route Register

Coolum Cave

Crag:

QLD
- South East Queensland
- 04 - Sunshine Coast and Surrounds
- Mt Coolum

	This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:	Steep, shady, dry, slopy, pumpy and plenty of knee bar opportunity. It's got everything. The east facing cave offers some of the steepest and hardest sport climbing in the State, with a little bit more potential for those with the right engineering skills. Has quickly become the prime summer crag in SE QLD. First developed in the early 90's, the cave had less than 10 routes for many years as the rest just looked impossible. Classics like Screaming Insanity, Yoink and Fruit Bat were considered futuristic (but are now trade routes). In early 2000, Lee Cujes, Matt Eaton & Frey Yule brought a new wave of interest after creating a few new lines (Knee Bar, Evil, Full Metal). Active climbers like J.J. O'Brien, Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, Matt Schimke & Phil Box have also recently contributed to development. JUST SHOW UP ANY SUNDAY for the regular session.
Location:	One and a half hours (130 km) north of Brisbane. Up the Bruce Highway. Exit L and under after the Ettamogah Pub onto the Sunshine Coast Motorway. Nearing Mooloolaba, take the Noosa exit (not Mooloolaba), pass over the Maroochy river (first sight of the mountain on the bridge). Take the airport exit and keep going straight toward the coast. After the IGA turn L on Quarry Rd, one street before Hyatt Coolum. Follow your nose and park in the main National Park car park. There are two track options to get to the cliff. The best (which avoids an obvious looking 'climbers trail' appearing on the general tourist track) is the separate trail from the tourists (see red line in the overview topo below). Head to the southern end of carpark and follow the fire trail South. After about 200m a narrow track breaks off R, follow this up to an old road then veer left into the quarry. Keep going uphill, the tracks lead up to the huge cave on the South East side (quite well worn, 10 minutes tops). The blue line in the overview topo indicates the tourist track to the summit. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~PLEASE RESPECT THE ACCESS RULES~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (as negotiated with Ranger ) : # No new routes outside the cave (bolted or otherwise) # No routes up though the area where the falcons are. # Minimize impact and presence. # Continue to clean up our mess and the mess of others.

Rock:		Walk:	5-15 mins
Wet Weather:	Bone Dry
Kid friendly:	Yes	Author:	nmonteith

Issues

Rebolting required	Cleared For Takeoff	route	maintenance	funded	2009-02-10
Rebolting required	Beer, Boobs And Jerky	route	maintenance	funded	2009-02-10
Old anchor removal	Hung Like A Fruit Bat	route	maintenance	waiting	2009-02-10
Rebolting required	Screaming Insanity	route	maintenance	funded	2009-02-10
Bad bolt removal	Evil Wears No Pants	route	maintenance	waiting	2009-02-10

Map One

(scaled down)

Map One

(scaled down)

Routes

...

1 :	Ultraviolet	15m	25	7 bolts Lower-off
	Accessed by climbing RA or FIHP. Traverse all the way L to belay. Up from here. Increasingly exciting moves, in one of the best positions at the cave!
FA: J.J. O'Brien - 2008-00-00

2 :	Drums Not Guns	20m	26	8 bolts Lower-off
	Crazy features up this steep wall have made this climb an amazing looking route. Joins Black Leather near the top.
FA: Frey Yule - 2008-00-00

3 :	Relative Affection	18m	23	7 bolts Lower-off
	Dont even bother if the friction is crap. Start at the left end of the cave where the trail disappears steeply down into jungley vines. Stick-clip start, monkey work straight off the ground then some slopey weirdness. Abseil/lower off. 7 fixed hangers. There's a couple of experimental bolts 2-3m L of this line ... they never gestated into a proper route.
FA: J.J. O'Brien, Ambor Collins - 2006-00-00

(scaled down)

J.J. on Ultraviolet, Photo Phil Box

4 :	Black Leather Dungarees	20m	26	11 bolts Lower-off
	Start at RA's anchor. Steep stuff straight above the belay. Traverse L under roof to wacky slab and a rest above. Huge jugs and horns comprise the final third. 11 U-bolts to DUBB. Second to clean. Rope length warning: It is more than 30m from anchor to ground. Suggestion: leader lowers, rope toss to pull back to belay, second to clean, lower second to ground, pull rope to start belay, rap off.
FA: Lee Cujes, JJ O'Brien - 2007-04-15

	Slap that Belly - verified	V5
	Star under the overhanging arete left of Friends in high places. The obvious series of slopers lead to a tricky exit. Best to top rope from Friends in high places anchor.
FA: Etienne Laliberte - 2009-08-15

5 :	Friends In High Places	15m	20	6 bolts Lower-off
	Stickclip. Starting on R is easier. Traversing under the bolt L adds a grade. Okay climbing on slippery rock. To anchors on the ledge on L. The only non-steep warmup here.
FA: Liam O'Dea - 1997-00-00

6 :	Gasoline Rainbow	15m	28	9 bolts Lower-off
	Amazing climbing which is never too hard, but quite continuous! Start at the top of FIHP. Three RBs to unique cave move. Thug R to jutting horn. Breach "slab" above moving L to find some harder moves. A traverse L, then finish on jugs. DUBB. Nine RBs. Lower-off into the ocean. Use 60m rope.
FA: Lee Cujes, JJ O'Brien - 2007-03-13

7 :	Cleared For Takeoff	25m	26	11 bolts Lower-off
	Start up TDLW for two FH's, then trend slightly L up the ever steepening wall past some crazy looking horns. The top horn rings when you tap it!
FA: Simon Moses - 1998-00-00

Lee Cujes on Gasoline Rainbow. Photo Phil Box

8 :	The David Low Way	10m	18	Lower-off
	Like Woodridge, had a name change and a rebolt to hopefully generate more interest. As for the previous route then arc R across the slippery slab up R into the cave. You'll need a seconder to clean this route.
1997-00-00

9 :	La Cucaracha Airhorns	12m	25	Lower-off
	From the belay on TDLW, up and out.
FA: Gareth Llewellin - 2007-11-11

10 :	The Antipump	10m	27	Lower-off
	Start at the Nick graffiti. Four RBs then finish up BBaJ. One big boulder problem with every move a hardie. The slot in the roof can be damp after rain and is completely frictionless. Deserves much more attention!
FA: Frey Yule - 2007-00-00

11 :	Beer, Boobs And Jerky	13m	24	Lower-off
	Up into the steep little cave, then across left to a hard move to gain the protruding jugs. Motor up the very overhanging arete on killer shark-fin jugs. About 8 bolts. Needs rebolting.
1999-00-00

(scaled down)

Coolum Steep section topo

12 :	Sister Two Strokes	20m	26	10 bolts
	Climb HLAFB to anchor, but dont clip it. Instead head sharply left untill you join into BBAJ. Finish up that. Have fun on the crazy upside down traverse.
FA: Frey Yule

13 :	Hung Like A Fruit Bat	8m	25	5 bolts Lower-off
	Up the bulby horns out the roof to nice anchors (have been replaced). Feet more important than hands on this one. Ever so popular. The extension is Frey Yules project (see 13a in topo).
FA: Simon Moses - 1998-00-00

14 :	Three Men And A Ladder	12m	26	5 bolts Lower-off
	Starts a few metres right of Hung Like a Fruit Bat. Stick clip. Jump start, up, then across the roof and finish at HLAFB chains. Similar style to fruitbat, at a harder grade. Five RB's.
FA: Matt Eaton - 2007-00-00

15 :	A Kneebar Too Far	12m	29	6 bolts Lower-off
	Journey into Mats obsession. Ringbolts starting just R of TMAAL. Make sure you bring your Kneepads for this one. The possible direct start is Mats project (hard).
FA: Matt Eaton - 2007-00-00

16 :	Bring Back The Kneebar	15m	29	8 bolts Back-clean
	The highly inticipated first ascent has been made. Climb AKTF then keep going for another 3 bolts.
FA: Mat Eaton - 2009-12-31

17 :	Esoteric Agenda (closed project)	22m	-	10 bolts Lower-off
	Futuristic ringbolted line. Mat Eatons 8 year project. One of the last remaining king line.

(scaled down)

Coolum central section topo. Note several partially visible routes on left of shot are not indicated. The red circle indicates a large bee hive: worth avoiding.

18 :	Frey's Project ( Closed )	21m	-	12 bolts Lower-off
	Start with the crux of Evil. Then take a low traverse into a series of burly moves. Connect into Ground Control and finish the climb.

19 :	Space Oddity	18m	29	9 bolts Lower-off
	This is Ground Control without the batman start. Starting from the ground, grunt your way through the powerful first section. Then join into GC and finish it.
FA: Matt Schimke - 2010-01-04

20 :	Ground Control	18m	28	8 bolts Lower-off
	Batman start from the first ringbolt. Avoids the hardest bit of the 'Evil Wears No Pants' boulder problem and has some great steep moves. Very steep moves lead up for 3 bolts before trending L-wards with a few knee-bars and kung-fu yells providing some relief.
FA: Adam Donoghue - 2007-00-00

21 :	Evil Wears No Pants - verified	20m	30	11 bolts Lower-off
	The 70� overhung madness that rears above the walking track. Amazingly this was the first route to be equipped at Coolum (2 bolts); it was then extended another 2 bolts and attempted by various suitors over the next 15 years. In early 2008, AD refreshed the hardware & added two extensions, beginning both from a batman start on the U-bolt (Ground Control 28 going L and Major Tom 30 going straight up). Lee linked up the boulder problem start with Major Tom and Evil Wears No Pants was reborn as one of Queensland's 'King Lines'!
FA: Lee Cujes - 2008-07-06

22 :	Major Tom	20m	30	10 bolts Lower-off
	This is Evil Wears No Pants without the boulder problem start. Batman start off the first stonker ring bolt ...."commencing countdown engines on..." Big steep moves head up for 3 more bolts before breaking R to funky shallow cave. Then up the obvious line on stellar rock. Packs in four cruxy sections en route and the final moves keep you honest right to the massive jug.
FA: Adam Donoghue - 2008-00-00

23 :	Lee Summer Project (closed)	20m	-	10 bolts Lower-off
	4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Scoop, wall, and rearing overhang finale.

24 :	The Line Next to Lee's	16m	-	6 bolts Lower-off
	Start at the lip of SQ. Very intense moves to go get the steep bulge above. Climb the headwall till you reach a big Hueco.

	Twister	V3
	Start matched on the red heart hold on the left of the small cave, traverse left around the bend then finish by matching on the jug that Kapow starts on.
FA: Clint Westbrook, Oliver Rickford

	Kapow	V5
	Start at the right of small cave, On big jug. Work your way left until it is obvious to move into the cave. Finish on the red paint hold ( match for 2 seconds ).
FA: Elliot, Matt Schimke - 2008-00-00

	Squatting Frenchman - verified	V4
	Start in the roof under Kapow. Grab the lip and squat over to Finishing hueco.
FA: Antoine Moussette - 2009-12-14

(scaled down)

Screaming Insanity section topo. Photo is looking steeply up - in fact the top roof is straight above the camera.

25 :	Frey's Megaline (closed project)	20m	-	8 bolts Lower-off
	Surf through the center of the wavy wall. Doesn't seem to be many holds there. Really thin and will need perfect conditions for the send.

Freys Project	??m	-	Unknown
Climbs the crack 5 metres to the left of screaming. Closed Project

26 :	Spoonman	20m	28	11 bolts Lower-off
	Bust out L from SI at 5th bolt. Great rock and good sequences have quickly made this popular at the grade. The direct start is Gareth's project (see 26a in the topo).
FA: Gareth Llewellin - 2007-00-00

27 :	Screaming Insanity - verified	15m	26	10 bolts Lower-off
	Really good climbing, with a hard bouldery start, loads of bolts. Must overhang about 8 metres. To clean, back-jump, then lower from mallion.
FA: Simon Moses - 2001-00-00

28 :	Screaming Spoonman	19m	26	12 bolts Back-clean
	Up to anchor of SI (600mm sling), then head left on tricky slopers before joining into the last part of Spoonman. Actually climbs great!!
FA: Frey Yule - 2008-00-00

29 :	Wholly Calamity	20m	26	14 bolts Lower-off
	This is the extension to Screaming Insanity. No harder, just pumpier! Two more bolts keep the lactic levels up. First to 100 laps of this wins. JJ stands king of this route!
FA: Gareth Llewellin - 2007-03-23

30 :	Crouching Tiger, Hidden Climber	20m	26	12 bolts Lower-off
	Starting as for SI, step R on ramp and then blast the line above. Features one of the most frictionless and slopy holds on the cliff.
FA: Frey Yule - 2007-04-01

31 :	Gonna Fly Now	30m	27	16 bolts Lower-off
	Climb some of Crouching Tiger until you notice a series of horns on your right. Traverse diagonally up to reach the crux of Kept Man. Punch through the anchor (past the chains) till you reach Camp II.
FA: Antoine Moussette - 2009-12-20

Adam Palmer on Separation Anxiety. Photo Antoine M.

32 :	Demolition Man	15m	24	9 bolts Rap-anchor
	Start with the boulder problem start of SI, and then ramble easily up R to belay on a cool ledge in a really good position ( a few climbs start here ). Also Possible at a more pleasant 18 with a batman start (aka Demolition Boy).
2001-00-00

33 :	Kept Man	7m	23	Lower-off Toprope
	Climb demolition man to access. Belayer can either belay from there, or the ground. Climb starts steeply directly above. Starts on a ring, then 4 hangers to shared anchor.
FFA: Brendan Leader - 2029-00-00

34 :	Smooth Criminals - verified	7m	24	5 bolts Lower-off Toprope
	Traverse right onto exposed arete from the anchor of Demolition Man. A couple of funky throws and your ready to clip the chain. Best to belay from the ground. Excellent rock!
FA: Matt Schimke - 2009-07-25

35 :	Gothic Architect - verified	7m	M1	7 bolts
	From Kept Man Belay station. Keep going and traverse into the massive roof. Finish at a picnic table ledge (aka camp III) over the lip.
FA: Phil Box - 2009-06-14

(scaled down)

Coolum Right Side topo. Note this view is looking steeply upwards. For perspective, refer to the free hanging ropes, and bear in mind that the Four Metres of Madness roof on the left of shot (route 36) is actually beyond horizontal.

36 :	Four Metres of Madness - verified	4m	29	5 bolts Back-clean
	Steepest route in Coolum. Start in back of cave R of SI. Stick clip first 2 bolts. Finish L of final bolt over the mantle.
FA: Mat Eaton - 2008-00-00

37 :	Separation Anxiety - verified	9m	28	5 bolts Lower-off
	Starting just to the right of cave, this route sure packs a punch. Ross has a variant finish to the right (closed project).
FA: Ross Ferguson - 2008-00-00

38 :	Gareth Project (closed) - verified	15m	-	7 bolts Lower-off
	Once sent it will do the crazy roof boulder problem start of Bloody Weapon, then trend diagonally left through steep territory to finish near the top of Demolition Man. Please keep off

	Flying Migrant - verified	V8
	Start of Bloody Weapon. Finish at the lip of the roof.
FA: Sasa Juvan - 2009-12-18

41 :	Weapon Of Choice	15m	28	9 bolts Back-clean
	The line starting at ground level, 10m L of the R end of cave. Stick-clip the very high first ringbolt. Very gymnastic climbing on positive holds.
FA: Gareth Llewellin - 2007-00-00

40 :	Bloody Weapon	15m	29	10 bolts Back-clean
	Start under the roof left of WC. After that join into WOC and finish it. The red blood stains on the route from Sasa decided the name.
FA: Sasa Juvan - 2009-12-29

42 :	Call of Duty	28m	28	16 bolts Lower-off
	Take a deep breath at last knee bar of Weapon of choice. Instead of clipping the anchor, take the bulging arete and work your way left and up. You find yourself in a exposed position. Finish on the Smooth Criminals arete. J.J. ended up skipping the last two bolts on the send.
FA: J.J. O'Brien - 2009-08-08

39 :	Recall of Duty - verified	28m	29	17 bolts Lower-off
	Start 2 m left of Weapon of Choice.

43 :	Afterburner (closed)	34m	-	Lower-off
	Climb Recall of Duty till you hang under the headwall. Leave the arete and progress to the base of the overhanging prow. Exciting finish at the cave lip!

44 :	Caught By The Fuzz	10m	25	3 bolts Back-clean
	Starts 3 metres left of CH. Small roof leads to easy top.
FA: Gareth Llewellin

Matt Schimke on Call of Duty. Photo Oliver Rickford

45 :	Horny Fuzz	11m	24	Back-clean
	Start as per Crazy Horny till fourth bolt ( Long sling ), then move sharply left to the second bolt of CBTF, finish up this. If you continue into WOC and finish that, you have climbed Caught With A Horny Weapon (26). And if you continue up the COD arete, you have climbed Big Boy, Big Problems (27). All routes are mega pumpy and good quality.
FA: Matt Schimke

46 :	Crazy Horny	10m	25	Lower-off
	Popular. Bouldery start then steep thuggery. The horn sadly broke changing the sequence. Many a persons first 25.
FA: Gareth Llewellin

47 :	Frey's Link	10m	25	9 bolts Lower-off
	Climb Crazy Horny to anchor on Full Metal Traverse via a 2 bolt link-up. Actually involves downclimbing. A better finish
FA: Frey Yule - 2008-00-00

48 :	Horny Anatomy - verified	17m	26	12 bolts Back-clean
	Climb Crazy Horny into Frey's Link (to the anchors of FMT - 600mm sling), but keep going over the block and finish up Grazed Anatomy.
FA: Frey Yule - 2008-05-25

49 :	Ross Project (closed)	??m	-	5 bolts Lower-off
	The line Left of True North on Rb's.

50 :	True North	17m	29	10 bolts Back-clean
	Start 3m L of Grazed Anatomy at ringbolts. Throw, pinch and scream for 3 bolts. After that you join into Grazed Anatomy.
FA: Frey Yule - 2009-01-27

(scaled down)

Frey on Grazed Anatomy. Photo Matt Schimke

51 :	Grazed Anatomy	15m	27	9 bolts Back-clean
	Climb FMT past four bolts, then up past another five. At last bolt, mantle lip of cave and stand on top triumphant.
FA: Lee Cujes - 2008-00-00

52 :	Full Metal Traverse	8m	27	7 bolts Back-clean
	Traverse lip on bouldery moves. Mind the third clip.
FA: Frey Yule - 2007-00-00

53 :	Has It Got A Chevy Motor?	12m	24	7 bolts Lower-off Toprope
	Start just to the left of Yoink. By far the most popular route at the crag. Now rebolted If you go left before the anchor and join into GA, its called Who Grazed My Chevy? (25).
FA: Gareth Llewellin

54 :	Yoink	12m	24	6 bolts Lower-off Toprope
	On the very R end of the cave. Climb crack on Rb's to wacky "rest". Conintue through the steep stuff to shared anchor.
FA: Vickie Moses - 1998-00-00

55 :	Rocket Man	9m	14	Walk-off
	Starts down over the edge from the start of Yoink, at small tree. Start at tree and work your way up onto ledges with gear. Straight up on the orange and slightly overhung rock, then mantle onto ledge. Nut belay in crack ( on yoink ).
FA: Matt Schimke, Oliver Rickford

...

(scaled down)

The Cave. Photo Jeremy Goble

Recent Ascents

Sasha	Three Men And A La...		red-point		26	2010-02-07
amoussette	Bloody Weapon	I like it, very nice	free			2010-01-31
djbiggs	Wholly Calamity		free			2010-01-25
djbiggs	Crouching Tiger, H...	nice... all about the position...	free	yuk!		2010-01-25
amoussette	Flying Migrant		free	yuk!		2010-01-08
Sasha	Wholly Calamity	A classic pump fest. Love this climb. A victory jump from the top is a must!	red-point		26	2009-12-30
Sasha	Caught By The Fuzz	.	red-point		26	2009-12-27
Sasha	Bloody Weapon	FA, soft 29 (to be confirmed). A beautiful direct line to Weapon. Surprised it managed to stay open project for like 3 years since Gareth bolted it.	red-point		29	2009-12-27
amoussette	Gonna Fly Now	Classic pumpfest	red-point			2009-12-20
Sasha	Flying Migrant	FA. A Classic boulder problem with a powerful move to the lip of the roof.	free			2009-12-17
Sasha	Weapon Of Choice		red-point		28	2009-12-16
Sasha	Horny Fuzz		flash		25	2009-12-16
amoussette	Squatting Frenchman	FA, vision by Frey	free			2009-12-14
Sasha	Crazy Horny		red-point			2009-12-07
Sasha	Has It Got A Chevy...		onsight			2009-12-07
Sasha	Frey's Link		red-point			2009-12-07
Sasha	Screaming Insanity		red-point			2009-11-23
amoussette	Smooth Criminals	second ascent	free			2009-11-22
Sasha	Hung Like A Fruit ...		red-point			2009-10-01
Sasha	Yoink		red-point			2009-10-01
djbiggs	Crazy Horny	nice	red-point		25	2009-07-26
Matt Schimke	Relative Affection	alright, maybe a tad soft	onsight		23	2009-06-29
Matt Schimke	Beer, Boobs And Je...	a couple of shots a while back on toprope, 2 shots this time	pink-point		24	2009-06-29
Matt Schimke	Demolition Man	hard start, then easy ramble	red-point		24	2009-06-29
Matt Schimke	Weapon Of Choice	awesome line, not 28 as it used to be	pink-point		27	2009-06-29

dosie photography	~CF* NYC
globetrottingmatt	globetrottingmatt

jdezilles	jdezilles
xbbtv	uniqueStephen