|This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.|
|Description:||Steep, shady, dry, slopy, pumpy and plenty of knee bar opportunity. It's got everything. The east facing cave offers some of the steepest and hardest sport climbing in the State, with a little bit more potential for those with the right engineering skills. Has quickly become the prime summer crag in SE QLD. |
First developed in the early 90's, the cave had less than 10 routes for many years as the rest just looked impossible. Classics like Screaming Insanity, Yoink and Fruit Bat were considered futuristic (but are now trade routes). In early 2000, Lee Cujes, Matt Eaton & Frey Yule brought a new wave of interest after creating a few new lines (Knee Bar, Evil, Full Metal). Active climbers like J.J. O'Brien, Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, Matt Schimke & Phil Box have also recently contributed to development. JUST SHOW UP ANY SUNDAY for the regular session.
|Location:||One and a half hours (130 km) north of Brisbane. Up the Bruce Highway. Exit L and under after the Ettamogah Pub onto the Sunshine Coast Motorway. Nearing Mooloolaba, take the Noosa exit (not Mooloolaba), pass over the Maroochy river (first sight of the mountain on the bridge). Take the airport exit and keep going straight toward the coast. After the IGA turn L on Quarry Rd, one street before Hyatt Coolum. Follow your nose and park in the main National Park car park.
There are two track options to get to the cliff. The best (which avoids an obvious looking 'climbers trail' appearing on the general tourist track) is the separate trail from the tourists (see red line in the overview topo below). Head to the southern end of carpark and follow the fire trail South. After about 200m a narrow track breaks off R, follow this up to an old road then veer left into the quarry. Keep going uphill, the tracks lead up to the huge cave on the South East side (quite well worn, 10 minutes tops). The blue line in the overview topo indicates the tourist track to the summit.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~PLEASE RESPECT THE ACCESS RULES~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
(as negotiated with Ranger ) :
# No new routes outside the cave (bolted or otherwise)
# No routes up though the area where the falcons are.
# Minimize impact and presence.
# Continue to clean up our mess and the mess of others.
# No building steps of paths.
# Clean holds with a brush after use
# Dont leave quickdraws on the cliff unless you plan to come back the following day.
|Wet Weather:||Bone Dry|
|Rebolting required||Cleared For Takeoff||route||maintenance||funded||2009-02-10|
|Rebolting required||Beer, Boobs And Jerky||route||maintenance||funded||2009-02-10|
|Old anchor removal||Hung Like A Fruit Bat||route||maintenance||waiting||2009-02-10|
|Rebolting required||Screaming Insanity||route||maintenance||funded||2009-02-10|
|Bad bolt removal||Evil Wears No Pants||route||maintenance||waiting||2009-02-10|