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The Australian Route Register


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Coolum Cave


Crag:QLD
  - South East Queensland
    - 04 - Sunshine Coast and Surrounds
      - Mt Coolum
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:Steep, shady, dry, slopy, pumpy and plenty of knee bar opportunity. It's got everything. The east facing cave offers some of the steepest and hardest sport climbing in the State, with a little bit more potential for those with the right engineering skills. Has quickly become the prime summer crag in SE QLD.

First developed in the early 90's, the cave had less than 10 routes for many years as the rest just looked impossible. Classics like Screaming Insanity, Yoink and Fruit Bat were considered futuristic (but are now trade routes). In early 2000, Lee Cujes, Matt Eaton & Frey Yule brought a new wave of interest after creating a few new lines (Knee Bar, Evil, Full Metal). Active climbers like J.J. O'Brien, Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, Matt Schimke & Phil Box have also recently contributed to development. JUST SHOW UP ANY SUNDAY for the regular session.

Location:One and a half hours (130 km) north of Brisbane. Up the Bruce Highway. Exit L and under after the Ettamogah Pub onto the Sunshine Coast Motorway. Nearing Mooloolaba, take the Noosa exit (not Mooloolaba), pass over the Maroochy river (first sight of the mountain on the bridge). Take the airport exit and keep going straight toward the coast. After the IGA turn L on Quarry Rd, one street before Hyatt Coolum. Follow your nose and park in the main National Park car park.

There are two track options to get to the cliff. The best (which avoids an obvious looking 'climbers trail' appearing on the general tourist track) is the separate trail from the tourists (see red line in the overview topo below). Head to the southern end of carpark and follow the fire trail South. After about 200m a narrow track breaks off R, follow this up to an old road then veer left into the quarry. Keep going uphill, the tracks lead up to the huge cave on the South East side (quite well worn, 10 minutes tops). The blue line in the overview topo indicates the tourist track to the summit.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~PLEASE RESPECT THE ACCESS RULES~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
(as negotiated with Ranger ) :

# No new routes outside the cave (bolted or otherwise)
# No routes up though the area where the falcons are.
# Minimize impact and presence.
# Continue to clean up our mess and the mess of others.
# No building steps of paths.
# Clean holds with a brush after use
# Dont leave quickdraws on the cliff unless you plan to come back the following day.
Rock:   Walk:   5-15 mins
Wet Weather:Bone Dry
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:nmonteith


Issues

Rebolting requiredCleared For Takeoffroutemaintenancefunded2009-02-10
Rebolting requiredBeer, Boobs And Jerkyroutemaintenancefunded2009-02-10
Old anchor removalHung Like A Fruit Batroutemaintenancewaiting2009-02-10
Rebolting requiredScreaming Insanityroutemaintenancefunded2009-02-10
Bad bolt removalEvil Wears No Pantsroutemaintenancewaiting2009-02-10

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Routes

1 :     Ultraviolet     IMGIMG 15m 25sport
7 bolts
Lower-off
 Accessed by climbing RA or FIHP. Traverse all the way L to belay. Up from here. Increasingly exciting moves, in one of the best positions at the cave!
FA: J.J. O'Brien - 2008-00-00
2 :     Drums Not Guns     IMGIMG 20m 26sport
8 bolts
Lower-off
 Crazy features up this steep wall have made this climb an amazing looking route. Joins Black Leather near the top.
FA: Frey Yule - 2008-00-00
3 :     Relative Affection 18m 23sport
7 bolts
Lower-off
 Start at the left end of the cave where the trail disappears steeply down into jungley vines.
Stick-clip start, monkey work straight off the ground then some slopey weirdness. Abseil/lower off. 7 fixed hangers. There's a couple of experimental bolts 2-3m L of this line ... they never gestated into a proper route.
FA: J.J. O'Brien, Ambor Collins - 2006-00-00
4 :     Black Leather Dungarees     IMGIMGIMG 20m 26sport
11 bolts
Lower-off
 Start at RA's anchor. Steep stuff straight above the belay. Traverse L under roof to wacky slab and a rest above. Huge jugs and horns comprise the final third. 11 U-bolts to DUBB. Second to clean. Rope length warning: It is more than 30m from anchor to ground. Suggestion: leader lowers, rope toss to pull back to belay, second to clean, lower second to ground, pull rope to start belay, rap off.
FA: Lee Cujes, JJ O'Brien - 2007-04-15
    Slap that Belly   -   verified V5
 Start under the overhanging arete left of Friends in high places. The obvious series of slopers lead to a tricky exit. Best to top rope from Friends in High Places anchor, but beware rope cutting edges.
FA: Etienne Laliberte - 2009-08-15
5 :     Friends In High Places 15m 20sport
6 bolts
Lower-off
 The only non-steep warmup here. Okay climbing on slippery rock.
Stickclip. Start R of the bolt and go diagonally up left to it. Traversing L while still under the 1st bolt adds a grade. Baffling moves up past 3-4 bolts until it slabs out, then head well left to DRB anchor.
FA: Liam O'Dea - 1997-00-00
6 :     Gasoline Rainbow     IMGIMGIMG 15m 28sport
9 bolts
Lower-off
 Amazing climbing which is never too hard, but quite continuous! Start at the top of FIHP. Three RBs to unique cave move. Thug R to jutting horn. Breach "slab" above moving L to find some harder moves. A traverse L, then finish on jugs. DUBB. Nine RBs. Lower-off into the ocean. Use 60m rope.
FA: Lee Cujes, JJ O'Brien - 2007-03-13
    Nuts in High Places   -   verified     IMG 27m 26sport
10 bolts
Lower-off
 Start up FIHP.
Climb FIHP to it's last bolt then, instead of traversing L to the anchor, keep going straight up the very steep wall 2-3m left of CFT.
FA: Lee Cujes - 2011-07-00
7 :     Cleared For Takeoff     IMGIMG 25m 26sport
11 bolts
Lower-off
 Start up TDLW for two FH's, then trend slightly L up the ever steepening wall past some crazy looking horns. The top horn rings when you tap it!
FA: Simon Moses - 1998-00-00
8 :     The David Low Way 10m 18sport
Lower-off
 Like Woodridge, had a name change and a rebolt to hopefully generate more interest. As for the previous route then arc R across the slippery slab up R into the cave. You'll need a seconder to clean this route.
1997-00-00
9 :     La Cucaracha Airhorns     IMGIMG 12m 25sport
Lower-off
 From the belay on TDLW, up and out.
FA: Gareth Llewellin - 2007-11-11
    Eraserhead     IMGIMG 12m 26sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Starts just to the right of LCA. Climbs the exposed arete before heading straight up into the thin corner ( the big horns out left are considered foot holds only ), finishing with a wild move to breach the shelf at the top. Best to belay from ground.

FA: Matt Schimke - 2010-12-29
10 :     The Antipump     IMGIMG 10m 27sport
Lower-off
 Start at the Nick graffiti. Four RBs then finish up BBaJ. One big boulder problem with every move a hardie. The slot in the roof can be damp after rain and is completely frictionless. Deserves much more attention!
FA: Frey Yule - 2007-00-00
11 :     Beer, Boobs And Jerky     IMG 13m 24sport
Lower-off
 Up into the steep little cave, then across left to a hard move to gain the protruding jugs. Motor up the very overhanging arete on killer shark-fin jugs. 7 U bolts.
1999-00-00
12 :     Sister Two Strokes (linkup)     IMGIMG 20m 26sport
10 bolts
 Climb HLAFB to anchor, but dont clip it. Instead head sharply left untill you join into BBAJ. Finish up that. Have fun on the crazy upside down traverse.
FA: Frey Yule
13 :     Hung Like A Fruit Bat     IMG 8m 25sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Up the bulby horns out the roof to nice anchors (have been replaced). Feet more important than hands on this one. Ever so popular. The extension is Matt Schimke's project (see 13a in topo).
FA: Simon Moses - 1998-00-00
14 :     Three Men And A Ladder     IMGIMG 12m 26sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Starts a few metres right of Hung Like a Fruit Bat. Stick clip. Jump start, up, then across the roof and finish at HLAFB chains. Similar style to fruitbat, at a harder grade. Five RB's.
FA: Matt Eaton - 2007-00-00
15 :     A Kneebar Too Far     IMGIMGIMG 12m 29sport
6 bolts
Lower-off
 Journey into Mats obsession. Ringbolts starting just R of TMAAL. Make sure you bring your Kneepads for this one. The possible direct start is Mats project (hard).
FA: Matt Eaton - 2007-00-00
16 :     Bring Back The Kneebar     IMGIMGIMG 15m 29sport
8 bolts
Back-clean
 The highly anticipated first ascent has been made. Climb AKTF then keep going for another 3 bolts. Make sure you use long draws on AKTF if you're trying this route. If you don't, the rope drag is just enough to make the end move easy.
FA: Mat Eaton - 2009-12-31
17 :     Esoteric Agenda (closed project) 22m - sport
10 bolts
Lower-off
 Futuristic ringbolted line. Mat Eatons 8 year project. One of the last remaining king lines.
18 :     Evel Knievel     IMGIMG 21m 29sport
12 bolts
Lower-off
 Climb Evil for 3 bolts before trending sharply left for a burly traverse below SO. Joins SO for its top 2 bolts.
FA: Frey Yule - 2010-10-03
20 :     Space Oddity     IMGIMG 18m 29sport
9 bolts
Lower-off
 Originally done with a batman to the first bolt and called Ground Control. Now the full route is done. Start up the first 3 bolts of Evil, then veer up and left for another 3 bolts before getting a weird ledge rest. A few more moves and your done.
FA: Matt Schimke - 2010-01-04
21 :     Evil Wears No Pants   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 20m 30sport
11 bolts
Lower-off
 The 70� overhung madness that rears above the walking track. Amazingly this was the first route to be equipped at Coolum (2 bolts); it was then extended another 2 bolts and attempted by various suitors over the next 15 years. In early 2008, Adam Donaghue refreshed the hardware & added two extensions, beginning both from a batman start on the U-bolt (Ground Control 28 going L and Major Tom 30 going straight up). Lee linked up the boulder problem start with Major Tom and Evil Wears No Pants was reborn as one of Queensland's 'King Lines'!
FA: Lee Cujes - 2008-07-06
    Project Matt S Closed 20m - Unknown
 Start up the first two bolts of Evil before heading right and up the blankish face. Closed
23 :     Bite The Hand That Feeds     IMGIMG 20m 31sport
10 bolts
Lower-off
 4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Scoop, wall, and rearing overhang finale.
FA: Lee Cujes - 2010-02-09
    Twister     IMG V3
 Start matched on the red heart hold on the left of the small cave, traverse left around the bend then finish by matching on the jug that Kapow starts on.
FA: Clint Westbrook, Oliver Rickford
    Kapow     IMG V5
 Start at the right of small cave, On big jug. Work your way left until it is obvious to move into the cave. Finish on the red paint hold ( match for 2 seconds ).
FA: Elliot, Matt Schimke - 2008-00-00
    Squatting Frenchman   -   verified     IMG V4
 Start in the roof under Kapow. Grab the lip and squat over to finishing at hueco.
FA: Antoine Moussette and Frey Yule - 2009-12-14
    Unfinish project 18m - Unknown
9 bolts
 Boulder Squatting Frenchman to start. Get over the bulge and trending right to the headwall. Finish right and above BHF anchors.
    Taking Care of Business     IMGIMGIMG 23m - sport
13 bolts
Lower-off
 Bouldery start is follow by a slimpy traverse and a bulge. Punch thought the headwall as Bite the Hand but finish straight up on his own anchors
25 :     Paul's Wedding Present Project     IMGIMG 30m - sport
14 bolts
Lower-off
 Starting on the slopy madness, just to the right of small cave. Really technical work in a shallow corner lead you over the bulge. Keep going onto the headwall till you reach Bite the Hand anchor
    Project Frey (closed)??m - Unknown
 Climbs the crack 5 metres to the left of Screaming start and just left of Direct Spoonman project.
26 :     Spoonman     IMGIMGIMG 20m 28sport
11 bolts
Lower-off
 Bust out L from SI at 5th bolt. Great rock and good sequences have quickly made this popular at the grade. The direct start is Gareth's project (see 26a in the topo).
FA: Gareth Llewellin - 2007-00-00
27 :     Screaming Insanity   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 15m 26sport
10 bolts
Lower-off
 Really good climbing, with a hard bouldery start. Must overhang about 8 metres. This was the first line here, bolted on lead, and quite a step into the unknown: the route (understandably) stops early because they were a bit frazzled!
Stick clip essential.
To clean, back-jump, then lower from mallion.
FA: Simon Moses - 2001-00-00
28 :     Screaming Spoonman (linkup)     IMGIMG 19m 26sport
12 bolts
Back-clean
 Up to anchor of SI (600mm sling), then head left on tricky slopers before joining into the last part of Spoonman. Actually climbs great!!
FA: Frey Yule - 2008-00-00
29 :     Wholly Calamity   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 20m 26sport
10 bolts
Lower-off
 This is the obvious extension to Screaming Insanity. No harder, just pumpier - and even more classic! Two more bolts keep the lactic levels up. First to 100 laps of this wins.
FA: Gareth Llewellin - 2007-03-23
30 :     Crouching Tiger, Hidden Climber     IMG 20m 26sport
12 bolts
Lower-off
 Starting as for SI, step R on ramp and then blast the line above. Features one of the most frictionless and slopy holds on the cliff.
FA: Frey Yule - 2007-04-01
31 :     Gonna Fly Now     IMGIMG 30m 27sport
16 bolts
Lower-off
 Climbs Crouching Tiger until you notice a series of horns on your right. Traverse diagonally up to reach the crux of Kept Man. Punch through the anchor (past the chains) till you reach Camp II.
FA: Antoine Moussette - 2009-12-20
32 :     Demolition Man 15m 24sport
9 bolts
Rap-anchor
 Start with the boulder problem start of SI, and then ramble easily up R to belay on a cool ledge in a really good position ( a few climbs start here ). Also Possible at a more pleasant 18 with a batman start (aka Demolition Boy).
2001-00-00
33 :     Kept Man 7m 23sport
Lower-off
Toprope
 Climb demolition man to access. Belayer can either belay from there, or the ground. Climb starts steeply directly above. Starts on a ring, then 4 hangers to shared anchor.
FFA: Brendan Leader - 2029-00-00
34 :     Smooth Criminals   -   verified     IMGIMG 7m 24sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
Toprope
 Traverse right onto exposed arete from the anchor of Demolition Man. A couple of funky throws and you're ready to clip the chain. Best to belay from the ground. Excellent rock!

FA: Matt Schimke - 2009-07-25
35 :     Gothic Architect   -   verified     IMG 7m M1oldschool
7 bolts
 From Kept Man Belay station. Keep going and traverse into the massive roof. Finish at a picnic table ledge (aka camp III) over the lip.
FA: Phil Box - 2009-06-14
36 :     Four Metres of Madness   -   verified     IMGIMG 4m 29sport
5 bolts
Back-clean
 Steepest route in Coolum. Start in back of cave R of SI. Stick clip first 2 bolts. Finish L of final bolt over the mantle.
FA: Mat Eaton - 2008-00-00
37 :     Separation Anxiety   -   verified     IMG 9m 28sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Starting just to the right of cave, this route sure packs a punch. Ross has a variant finish to the right (closed project).
FA: Ross Ferguson - 2008-00-00
38 :     Eight Minute Abs   -   verified 15m 28sport
7 bolts
Lower-off
 Do the crazy roof boulder problem start of Bloody Weapon, then trend diagonally left through steep territory to finish near the top of Demolition Man.
FA: Gareth Llewellin - 2011-07-00
    Flying Migrant   -   verified V8
 A boulder problem on rope. Stick clip the first bolt of Bloody Weapon and burl through the crazy roof. Finishes on the massive jug level with the bolt.
FA: Sasa Juvan - 2009-12-18
39 :     Fire the Panzerschrek   -   verified     IMGIMG 28m 29sport
17 bolts
Lower-off
 Climb Bloody Weapon untill anchor, then veer left and finish up COD.
FA: Tom O'Halloran - 2010-00-00
40 :     Bloody Weapon     IMGIMG 15m 29sport
10 bolts
Back-clean
 Start under the roof left of WC. After that join into WOC and finish it. The red blood stains on the route from Sasa decided the name.
FA: Sasa Juvan - 2009-12-29
41 :     Weapon Of Choice     IMGIMG 15m 27sport
9 bolts
Back-clean
 The line starting at ground level, 10m L of the R end of cave. Stick-clip the very high first ringbolt. Very gymnastic climbing on positive holds.
FA: Gareth Llewellin - 2007-00-00
42 :     Call of Duty     IMGIMG 28m 28sport
16 bolts
Lower-off
 Take a deep breath at the last kneebar of Weapon of choice. Instead of clipping the anchor, take the bulging arete and work your way left and up. You'll find yourself in an exposed position. Finish on the Smooth Criminals arete. On the FA, JJ skipped the last 2 bolts.
FA: J.J. O'Brien - 2009-08-08
43 :     Afterburner (closed) 34m - sport
16 bolts
Lower-off
44 :     Caught By The Fuzz 10m 25sport
3 bolts
Back-clean
 Starts 3 metres left of CH. Small roof leads to easy top.
FA: Gareth Llewellin
45 :     Horny Fuzz (linkup)     IMG 11m 24sport
Back-clean
 Start as per Crazy Horny till fourth bolt ( Long sling ), then move sharply left to the second bolt of CBTF, finish up this. If you continue into WOC and finish that, you have climbed Caught With A Horny Weapon (26). And if you continue up the COD arete, you have climbed Big Boy, Big Problems (27). All routes are mega pumpy and good quality.
FA: Matt Schimke
46 :     Crazy Horny     IMG 10m 25sport
Lower-off
 Popular. Bouldery start then steep thuggery on a-bit-too-sharp jugs. The horn sadly broke changing the sequence. Many a person's first 25.
FA: Gareth Llewellin
47 :     Frey's Link     IMG 10m 25sport
9 bolts
Lower-off
 Climb Crazy Horny to anchor on Full Metal Traverse via a 2 bolt link-up. Actually involves downclimbing. A better finish
FA: Frey Yule - 2008-00-00
48 :     Horny Anatomy (linkup)   -   verified     IMG 17m 26sport
12 bolts
Back-clean
 Climb Crazy Horny into Frey's Link (to the anchors of FMT - 600mm sling), but keep going over the block and finish up Grazed Anatomy.
FA: Frey Yule - 2008-05-25
49 :     Ross Project (closed)??m - sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 The line Left of True North on Rb's.
50 :     True North     IMG 17m 29sport
10 bolts
Back-clean
 Start 3m L of Grazed Anatomy at ringbolts. Throw, pinch and scream for 3 bolts. After that you join into Grazed Anatomy.
FA: Frey Yule - 2009-01-27
51 :     Grazed Anatomy     IMG 15m 27sport
9 bolts
Back-clean
 Climb FMT past four bolts, then up past another five. At last bolt, mantle lip of cave and stand on top triumphant.
FA: Lee Cujes - 2008-00-00
52 :     Full Metal Traverse     IMG 8m 27sport
7 bolts
Back-clean
 Traverse lip on bouldery moves. Mind the third clip.
FA: Frey Yule - 2007-00-00
53 :     Has It Got A Chevy Motor?     IMGIMG 12m 24sport
7 bolts
Lower-off
Toprope
 Start just to the left of Yoink. By far the most popular route at the crag. Now rebolted. If you go left before the anchor and join into GA, its called Who Grazed My Chevy? (25).
FA: Gareth Llewellin
54 :     Yoink     IMG 12m 24sport
6 bolts
Lower-off
Toprope
 On the very R end of the cave. Climb crack on RBs to wacky "rest". Continue through the steep stuff to shared anchor.
FA: Vickie Moses - 1998-00-00

Recent Ascents

djbiggs Cleared For Takeoffred-point2011-07-18
djbiggs A Kneebar Too Farfree2011-07-18
Mcllama Crazy Hornyred-point252011-07-18
djbiggs Weapon Of Choicefree272010-11-15
Snappy Crazy Hornyfree2010-09-19
Olbert Screaming InsanityDo you queenslanders know how to grade routes?free252010-07-16
Olbert Has It Got A Chevy...Pumpy warm upfree2010-07-16
daaave Screaming InsanityGet rid of the mid-way anchors, give the rock a bit of texture, get rid of the soft option kneebar and you queenslanders may have a route actually worth getting on... free252010-07-13
daaave Has It Got A Chevy...flash242010-07-13
amoussette Crouching Tiger, H...free2010-03-14
amoussette Caught By The Fuzzfree2010-03-14
Sasha Ultravioletred-point252010-02-27
Sasha Cleared For TakeoffA classic. Deserves more attention.red-point262010-02-21
amoussette Weapon Of Choicefree2010-02-15
Sasha Three Men And A La...red-point262010-02-07
amoussette Bloody WeaponI like it, very nicefree2010-01-31
djbiggs Wholly Calamityfree2010-01-25
djbiggs Crouching Tiger, H...nice... all about the position...freeyuk!2010-01-25
amoussette Flying Migrantfreeyuk!2010-01-08
Sasha Wholly CalamityA classic pump fest. Love this climb. A victory jump from the top is a must!red-point262009-12-30
Sasha Caught By The Fuzz.red-point262009-12-27
Sasha Bloody WeaponFA, soft 29 (to be confirmed). A beautiful direct line to Weapon. Surprised it managed to stay open project for like 3 years since Gareth bolted it. red-point292009-12-27
amoussette Gonna Fly Now Classic pumpfestred-point2009-12-20
Sasha Flying MigrantFA. A Classic boulder problem with a powerful move to the lip of the roof. free2009-12-17
Sasha Weapon Of Choicered-point282009-12-16

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