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The Australian Route Register

Gilhams Crags - Around Right of the Track

  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 07. The Victoria Range
      - 6. Harrop Track South (incl, The Flatiron, Eagles Head, Tortoise Wall & Gilhams Crags)
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description:A collection of Arapiles quality bulging orange buttresses and craglets scattered along a ridgeline. Routes are usually a mix of trad and bolts, and are a little 'old wave' in style (ie slick cracks!). Red Rain Wall is the standout for quality but the are some other good routes here too.
Location:At the start of the Death March Track near the south end of the waterworks track. The walk in is around 10-15mins to the left end of Schmitt Block. The track is loose and steep so watch out for rolled ankles! Walk around right (between 3-10mins) for all areas.
Rock:   Walk:   5-15 mins
Wet Weather:Damp
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:jgoding



    Nest Eggs 18m 20trad
 Arete on left side of wall, capped by big block.
FA: Geoff Butcher - 1991-01-19
    Golden Ghetto Greper 18m 19trad
 Up subtle wall, starting from small platform immediately right of orange section.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Gary Schmitt - 1990-12-02
    Bulbous Bellies 18m 16trad
 Wall straight up and right of Golden Ghetto Greper
FA: Glen Tempest, Michael Hampton - 1990-12-00
    Fizzio's Fizickle 20m 12trad
 Start off ledge on right side of face. Up through bulge and tend right.
FA: Stuart and Lisa Imer - 1990-12-00
    Falcon's Anxiety 20m 19mixed
1 bolts
 Steep face on left near arete.
FA: Geoff Butcher - 1990-12-08
    Falcon's Anxiety Variant Start 8m 12Unknown
 Juggy bulges on left, stepping out below BR.
FA: Geoff Butcher - 1990-12-08
    Three Little Piggies 18m 22mixed
1 bolts
 Tiring. On the left wall of the gully. Steeply up to BR, a few fingery moves, step left and then up.
FA: Glen Tempest, Michael Hampton, Peter Woodfield - 1990-12-00
    Locusts 15m 18trad
 At the end of the gully about 2 metres right of Three Little Piggies with a hard starting move.
FA: Geoff Butcher - 1991-01-19
    Tea And Snags 10m 16trad
 The wall behind the arete of Lethargic Liver. The crack through the roof.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Judy Grove - 1991-01-18
    Lethargic Liver 18m 17trad
 The obvious easy-angled arete at the top of the gully.
FA: Geoff Butcher - 1990-12-00
    Two Slobs On A Slab 20m 14trad
 The grey wall 2 metres right of Lethargic Liver. Pull past tiny overlap and up slabby wall above.
FA: Glen Tempest, Michael Hampton - 1990-12-00
    Head Over Heels 22m 16trad
 The grey wall just before the entrance to the gully.
FA: Glen Tempest, Michael Hampton - 1990-12-00
    The Final Edition 20m 15Unknown
 The slabby grey wall right of Head Over Heels
Start at obvious tree, up to left end of huge cave, continue up line above.
FA: Gary Schmitt, Matilda Schmitt - 1990-01-00
    Fun Factor 18m 16trad
 Start at back of gully right of Schmitt Block, near a big block. CRack, then scoop.
FA: Geoff Butcher - 1991-02-09
    Sniffing The White Owl 18m 21mixed
2 bolts
 A tricky start 4 metres right of Fun Factor leads to harder climbing.
FA: Geoff Butcher - 1991-02-10
    Not With It 18m 10trad
 The crack near the arete, 2 metres right of Sniffing The White Owl.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Judy Grove - 1991-02-09
    Chewing Gum 30m 10trad
 A complete waste of time.
on the left side of the orange wall is a short crack. (4m left of smoking is a health hazard.
after the crack traverse 2m right and then go up rightward.
FA: Peter Watling, Ceri Law - 1979-06-03
    Smoking is a health hazard 10m 21trad
4m right of "chewing gum" and a few meters left of "A burnt out case".
Climb the very thin seam up the face 4m right of chewing gum. Belay when easy ground is reached. Solo off (carefully!).
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran - 1984-04-00
    A burnt out case     IMG 25m 18trad
Climb onto a pedestal below a short diagonal crack. Up crack and hand traverse right to the center of the face. Straight up the line to a ledge below the roof (Rap chains here).
FA: Kieran Loughran, Kevin Lindorff - 1984-04-00
    But I didnt inhale     IMG 20m 23mixed
4 bolts
 Directly under the Rap anchor on Smoke Wall

Start on pockets up to bolts & crack system to Rap anchor
Crosses A burn out case half way to Rap-anchor and will keep you smoken to the finish.
FA: Rob Booth & Penny Reed - 1999-00-00
    Do you mind if I smoke     IMGIMG 20m 19trad
 The best route in the area of it's grade.
starts 4m right of "A burnt out case" at small roof/overlap (about 3m off the ground).
up RHS of rooflet, step left to thin seam, then tend right onto wall, right again, up (thin) to gain horizontal break. Move left into open book corner/crack and follow this to the roof, then left to belay/rap station.
FA: Terry Tremble, Kieran Loughran, Paul Vlahovic - 1984-07-00
    Purple Haze 20m 18trad
 good line, pity about the poor rock quality and fiddly/crap protection. Not worth a star in my opinion.
About 4-5m right up the arete (start off the big boulder to it's right).
Up the arete then left to finish up "Do you mind if I smoke" and rap off at the ledge.
    L'Access 30m 8trad
 just a way of getting above Red Wall
far left side of the wall
From the blocks on the left side of the wall, climb the arete easily.
FA: Stuart Imer, Lisa Imer - 1990-11-00
    Cloud Nine     IMGIMG 30m 22trad
 A dam fine route which sees a lot of wingers off the crux move.
Starts from the blocks left of the cave on the L side of Red Rain Wall.
Up easily to traverse right along horizontal crack to under the overlap. A mightly long reach (or short dyno) is needed to reach the lip. Quickly follow the line to a small ledge. Step Left and up the spectacular juggy wall, or climb the cop-out line on the right.
FA: Stephen Hamilton, Glenn Tempest - 1990-11-00
    Welsh Grabbit     IMG 25m 24mixed
 Must be ok. Someone thinks this is worth a star.
Climb past PR above cave and straight on up to the wall. Up to horizontal, up to PR and left to a good hold on the nose. Up.
FA: Glen Tempest, Huw Lewis, Alistair Mark, Edwin Young - 1990-01-00
    Greasy Kiwi     IMG 30m 24mixed
Step out above the cave immediately right of "cloud nine", passing PR on "Welsh Grabbit". Move up and through overhang (PR) and then (without wimping out left) up wall above to join "Cloud Nine". Up this to ledge. Left and up wild wall above.
FA: Glen Tempest, Alistair Mark - 1991-01-00
    Red Rain     IMGIMGIMG 35m 26mixed
 One of the best.
Start just left of center of the main wall
Up to traverse line (3BR's). Clip PR, traverse left and pull strenuously up into steep crack and corner above. Finish easily as for "Cloud Nine"
FA: Glen Tempest - 1990-12-00
    Pluvius     IMGIMG 30m 26mixed
 Dramatic climbing on stunning rock
Climb Red Rain to its third bolt. Traverse rightwards past a FH then blast up the amazing bulging face above passing three more FH's. At the last FH iron cross leftwards to gain the hanging prow in a dramatic position (2 camalot). Latch a prominent jug at 12 o'clock before moving left and up to rings.
FA: Ingvar Lidman - 2008-07-05
    I Hear the Rain     IMG 35m 23mixed
 Climb the leaning corner to a roof. Scary moves gain the lip of the roof. Hand traverse left to a shallow corner and pull up for a rest. finish easily.
FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loiughran, Louise Shepherd - 1984-00-00
    Imminent Thunder     IMGIMG 45m 24mixed
 Spectacular with outrageous situations
A few metres left of
FA: Glen Tempest, Stephen Hamilton - 1990-12-00
P1(30m, 24)Pull onto shelf and traverse left to blocks. Up to stance. Into shallow hanging corner (BR). Continue up and right (RB) to traverse line of
P2(15m, 23)Up and left (BR). Pull straight up at incut jug, then step left and finish on terrace.
    Something Is Out There 40m 16Unknown
    Saddam Who Sucks 10m 22Unknown
    Invasion USA 10m 17Unknown
    The Twinkie 10m 16Unknown
    Moving Right Along 10m 15Unknown
    I Nose The Nose 10m 19Unknown
    Rythm Pigs 25m 9Unknown
    Hypokinesic 25m 12Unknown
    Leaps And Bounds 25m 24Unknown
    Someone Keeps Moving My Chair 25m 23Unknown
    Restless     IMG 60m 20trad
 A good line with an exciting overhang. Climb the line all the way. Belays can be had both immediately above and below the roof.
Start about 50 metres right of I Hear The Rain at a strong line with a large roof at 25 metres.
FA: Ed Neve, Hugh Foxcroft, Nick Reeves (alt) - 1979-06-03
    Sticky Fingers 35m 17trad
 Tacky. Take the easy crack 8 metres right of Restless until it blanks. Traverse left along break, up past tree to corner and up this. Gully walk-off is awful.
Variant start goes straight up into the line at Grade 12. Peter Stevens 11-1990
FA: Peter Watling, Ceri Law, Kieran Loughran - 1979-06-03
    15 Years On 26m 16trad
 Start 6 metres left of Begegnung
Up the corner and face to the horizontal break. Traverse right to belay as for Begegnung
FA: Glenn Donohue, Mark Poustie - 1995-00-00
    Never Stop Gibbin'     IMG 20m 21mixed
 Great thin technical face climbing.
About 2m left of "Begegnung". Tricky layback start, then delicatly up face past 5 U-bolts to horizontal, mantle (can protect with .75 cam and long draw) then traverse right to belay/rap station.
FA: Naomi Gibbs - 2008-07-06
    Never stop Gibbin direct aka Mum's route     IMG 30m 23mixed
8 bolts
 Talk about a sting in the tail...
As for Never Stop Gibbin' to bolt before major horizontal.
head left past another bolt, step even more left to big hold just below horizontal (or directly up on tinys - add a grade!). Step right onto ledge. Up past 2 more bolts to finish on ledge. Natural belay (#4 cam and a few wires). Walk off to the right.
FA: Ross Taylor, Mark Gould - 2008-07-20
    Begegnung     IMG 20m 17mixed
1 bolts
 Nice line, nice climbing. Good rock. Retro-bolted accidentally.
Step on chockstone below open book corner in the middle of the wall to gain good horizontal break. Move right on mossy slab (recently cleaned) into corner proper. Up past FH to steep well protected conclusion. Rap station on ledge.
FA: Craig Nottle, Graham Sanders, Glenn Donahue, Russel Paul - 1980-04-00
    Retro-futurism     IMG 50m 20mixed
 A continuation to Begegnung
FA: Josef Goding, Naomi Gibbs, Scott Ambridge - 2007-11-05
P1(20m, 17)Up Begegnung to rap station on ledge.
P2(15m, 3)Walk right (facing the cliff) on ledge and up to terrace.
P3(15m, 20)Blast steeply up the left side of the juggy steep face passing two amazing (yet to be done) left traverses about 2m apart (vertically). Belay at ledge. A rap station here would be useful.
    Chess Nerds Unite   -   verified     IMGIMG 30m 24mixed
1 bolts
 An unlikely line that features a fierce crux at the end.
Start as for Begenung
Up to bolt then then follows the horizontals rightwards (a bit up and down) for about ten meters to an obvious corner which you move up for a move or two, then step right again past another little corner onto a rest, before finishing easily to rap anchor.
FA: Mark Gould, Ross Taylor - 2008-07-20
    Adam D's Project??m - mixed
3 bolts
 Left of DMaMoYM the overhaning seam.
    Don't Make a Monster of Your Mind     IMG 15m 26sport
6 bolts
 Starts in cave where cliff meets the little creek, and climbs the steep wall just left of arete. A brutal jump start off a crimp (add a rock if you are short), leads into some enjoyable wrestling and technical finish.
FA: Ross Taylor - 2009-01-18
    Cath de V'sProject??m - mixed
3 bolts
 Right of DMaMoYM around the arete.
    Mitra e Bello     IMG 20m 24mixed
 The machine gun is beautiful. The left most route on the wall starts from the ledge above the waterfall and climbs up past four or five FHs and a couple of small cams, tending left from the dyke to the anchor at the top.
FA: Ross Taylor, Mark Gould - 2008-00-00
    Mitra e Bello/The Gloaming Direct link up     IMG 30m 25mixed
 Takes in the cruxes of both routes. Start up Mitra e Bello at the dike move into The Gloaming Direct
FFA: Adam Demmert, Neil Monteith - 2009-00-00
    The Gloaming     IMG 20m 24sport
 Starts in the middle of the wall off a big rock. Up past a FH, to another FH in the dyke, left to the next FH (still in the dyke), then move up and left past three more FHs and the anchor of Mitra e Bello.
FA: Ross Taylor, Mark Gould - 2008-00-00
    The Gloaming Direct     IMGIMG 30m 25mixed
 The best route on the wall? At the fourth FH on The Gloaming, instead of going left, go straight up past three more FHs, once on the steep headwall, head right on cams to an anchor.
FA: Ross Taylor, Mark Gould - 2008-00-00
    Sleazy Slimpers     IMGIMG 30m 27mixed
6 bolts
 Start as for The Gloaming. At the second bolt head directly up past ring bolts sleazing your way past many slimpers to a thin seam. At top of seam head left and up to hit the major break. At the break continue to head left and then up through the steeper rock passing the pocket of love, medium cams required, to a double u bolt anchor.
FFA: Adam Demmert - 2012-00-00
    Fingering the Dyke     IMGIMG 30m 23mixed
 The best line on the wall. Starts at the right end of the obvious dyke and follows it all the way back left, finishing at the anchor of Mitra e Bello. Take a number three rock or one camalot for between the second and third bolts. You also need a couple of small cams for the last section.
FA: Mark Gould, Ross Taylor - 2008-00-00
    The Monstrous Regiment of Women 30m 24mixed
 Ignore the red tape. A bit unlikely. Start at the same spot as Fingering the Dyke, but blast straight up past three FHs and natural gear to anchor at top. Might be harder than 24 for shorties.
FA: Ross Taylor - 2008-00-00
    Drop Of The Watch 15m 10trad
 Crack up mossy wall across gully from Begegnung.
FA: Russel Paul, Glenn Donahue. Easter 1980.
Something New
20m 15trad
 A steep, clean wall with little protection. The main line on the west wall of the next buttress right of Drop Of The Watch, starting from the cave and exiting right of the small roof.
FA: Craig Nottle, Graham Nottle. Easter 1980
    Don't Be Denied 12m 10trad
 Good climbing up a bulging finger and hand-crack which is the main line on the next buttress right of Something New
FA: Craig Nottle, Graham Sanders. Easter 1980.
    Stuck Up??m - trad
 High up on the hill above Don't Be Denied is a mossy wall, the left of three buttresses The crack on this is worthless. On the next buttress down right from this climb the pedestal and short corner 5 metres right of the guano-stained crack.
FA: Graham Sanders, Craig Nottle. Easter 1980
    Shellgrit 10m 10trad
 Worthless. On the next buttress down right of Stuck Up is a crack just right of short corner.
FA: Graham Sanders, Craig Nottle. Easter 1980

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