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The Australian Route Register

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Middle Cove

  - 05 Sydney Metropolitan Region
    - 05. The North Shore (incl. Lower North Shore (Lane Cove, Cremorne, Willoughby), Upper North Shore (Lindfield, Killara), The Forest (Killarney, Frenchs Forest, Terrey Hills), & West Head areas)
      - 09. Middle Cove + Castle Cove
This area is unlocked for editing, and its routes are unlocked. Route additions are allowed.
Description: small 8-10m high, south facing cliffline set amid peaceful bushland in Middle Cove. This crag offers easy to midddle grade sport and trad routes in a variety of styles. Location:
Location:Located in Harold Reid Reserve, Middle Cove. From Eastern Valley Road, turn east into Cawarrah Rd, then Right into Rembrandt Dr. Follow this around until a narrow road leaves off to the right, with a white gate [note: this is a loop road which is closed at 5:30pm, so if you want to stay later, park in Rembrandt Dr]. Turn into this, and follow around, until a cliffline appears on your right (i.e. the cliff is inside the loop of road).
Rock:   Walk:   <5 mins
Wet Weather:Soaked
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:christo


Map One

(scaled down)


    Ept 8m 11trad
 Right end of cliff. Starts below bollard-like lump of rock.
    Rusted Iron 8m 14trad
 2m L of Ept
FA: Rhett Hamilton-Smith (solo) - 2000-00-00
    Kempt 8m 15trad
 Up to mantleshelf, then up slab.
1m L of Rusted Iron, between boulder and wall.
    Gruntled 8m 15trad
 Go up the crack
Obvious crack to L of Kempt.
    Ringo's Revenge 10m 16sport
 Just left of crack
Up wall past to decent BRs.
FA: Munch - 1993-00-00
    UK Rootfest     IMG 10m 21sport
 1m L of Ringo's Revenge.
Up sparsely pocketed wall, past two RB's and then up flake past FH.
FA: Munch - 1993-00-00
    Enemy of Love 10m 17sport
 3m L UK Rootfest
    Doggie's Dinner 10m 21sport
 up and left of roof
4m L Enemy of Love
    Doggie's Dinner Direct 10m 24sport
 Up, directly through roof.
As for Doggie's Dinner.
    Grannies From Hell 10m 23sport
 4m L Doggie's Dinner
    Spiral Corpse 10m 25sport
 Up arete.

2m L Grannies From Hell
    Pulpey Kidney Part II 8m 26sport
 20m Left of Spiral Corpse, up centre of red-streaked wall.
    Time Warp 10m 24sport
 20m L Pulpey Kidney Part II, up centre of yellow wall.
    Unnamable Arete 9m 21sport
 Traverse right, then up arete, to bushes.
4m L Time Warp
    Cold Chisel 6m 23sport
 2m L Unnamable Arete
    Hardware Lane 6m 13trad
 Up crack
Up crack 2m L Cold Chisel.
    Pervert Street 6m 16trad
 Up undercut crack 2m L Hardware Lane.

Recent Ascents

SLacey KemptGood fun easy climb!top-rope (clean)2009-01-07
JLacey Kempttop-rope (clean)2009-01-07
SLacey Ringo's Revengetop-rope (clean)2009-01-07
JLacey Ringo's Revengetop-rope (clean)2009-01-07
christo KemptGood Warm (clean)152007-04-06
christo Gruntledtop-rope (clean)152007-04-06
christo UK Rootfestfree212007-04-06
christo Ringo's Revengetop-rope (clean)162006-00-00
tahlshara Enemy of Loveonsight0000-00-00
tahlshara Hardware Laneonsight0000-00-00
tahlshara Pervert Streetonsight0000-00-00

Copyright, ACA, 2012