Print  

The routes database is now read-only. Route information is gradually being migrated to theCrag and this site will eventually be decommissioned.

The ACAQ web site contains information about ongoing policy and access work relating to climbing in Queensland.

For more information, contact Damien Ayers, damien at omad dot net.

The Australian Route Register

Central Buttress (+ Sabre Gully)


Crag:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 05. Mt. Stapylton Amphitheatre
This area is locked for editing by the parent crag. Route additions are allowed.
Description:Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

Central Buttress is the big somewhat scrappy looking area extending right from the Amphitheatre Gully, until the cliffline breaks down into a gully before the Grey & Green Walls. It offers a wide variety of climbs with a few outstanding classics. While some of the cliffs do not look particularly attractive at first sight, don't let that put you off. The highlight of this area, and the best section of the entire Amphitheatre apart from Taipan Wall, is the recess containing Simpleton, Missing and Technical Ecstasy.

Central Buttress is in the shade until early afternoon. Simpleton gets sun only on summer evenings. An early start on a hot day can see you up a good climb before the heat of the afternoon. The climbs left of Simpleton appear grey and amorphous but are generally quite steep and more difficult than appearances suggest.

Location:Follow the walking track from Flat Rock down into the Amphitheatre for about 150m past Epsilon Wall, avoiding any right-hand turns. Follow a faint pad on the left to soon arrive below the Amphitheatre Gully. Central Buttress extends from here to your right.

Descent: Descend via the abseil near Simpleton or the Hollow Mountain walking track towards Summer Day Valley (return into the Amphitheatre is then possible by walking beneath Amnesty, Clicke, Kindergarden and Northern Walls areas). Avoid the horrible dangerous Amphitheatre Gully (which I refuse to call by its traditional name of "the descent gully"!). Parties with novice climbers are strongly advised to use the walking track for descent.

Simpleton Abseil Route: This is the only abseil descent from this area, and allows the awful Amphitheatre Gully to be avoided, but it has its own hazards. If you have two 50m ropes, you need to use the old anchors: from the top of Simpleton (near a lonely 4m pine tree), move out to the front of the cliff and scramble down 5 metres to the chains, the scramble is fairly easy but very exposed - one snapped hold or foot slip and you're facing a death fall. If in doubt, keep the rope on. Have slings ready to clip into the anchors, which are now worryingly rusty. It is a 50 metre abseil, and the first 40 metres are free hanging. Abseil ends on long ledge at the base of Missing. Either scramble down the initial slabs of Technical Ecstasy or do a further short abseil from trees. If you take novices on this descent (not recommended) you must be able to rescue them if they get stuck on the long free abseil section. On a pragmatic note, remember that belaying a novice on descent can take just as long as simply walking off.

In May '09 a new anchor was added at the top of the Simpleton corner, and this can be accessed much less dangerously than the original anchor because you don't need to do the scary 5m downclimb. To use this new anchor you need two 60m ropes.

Climbs are described from left to right.

Rock:   Walk:   5-15 mins
Wet Weather:Soaked
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:willmonks


Issues

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Routes

1 :     Incisor   -   verified 60m 10trad
Walk-off
 A major geological feature.

Start beneath the prominent chimney.
FA: Keith Egerton, John Chapman - 1975-04-25
P1(40m, 10)(crux) The line to belay below an overhang.
P2(20m, -)Climb the overhang and continue up the line.
2 :     Tough Tusk 65m 16trad
Walk-off
 Arete right of Incisor. Take lots of slings for the creaking jugs.
As for Incisor
FA: Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman and Tim Lockwood - 2006-02-04
P1(40m, 16)Bridge up Incisor for 11.22 metres until a rising traverse gains the right arête. Up arête in a spectacular position, then up the wall about 2m left of the arête until the angle eases. A short juggy arête leads to a belay at the base of the orange headwall.
P2(25m, 16)Step left and climb Incisor’s overhang. Climb wall on the right to regain the arête, which is followed to the top.
3 :     Synchronised Tractor Maintenance   -   verified 33m 20mixed
Rap-anchor
 Quite good really, but the crux is a little intense. Should be OK now that the dust has cleared.
Start as for Incisor.
FA: Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, Norm Booth - 1995-12-03
P1(8m, 20)(crux) Thin climbing on the R wall, 2 bolts, to a ledge. Large cams for belay.
P2(25m, 18)Balance to bolt and follow shallow cracks, mostly to R of cracks, until the holds R of the cracks develop into a steep arete. Follow arete with increasing ease to easy slab and move diagonally R to abseil anchor for Empty Pockets (40m abseil).
4 :     Empty Pockets   -   verified     IMG 40m 22mixed
Rap-anchor
 This excellent buttress has been done in one pitch (not on the first ascent) but that placed the second at serious risk on the start. Add some slings, cams to #2½ and a handful of wires to the rack. Some think that the climb is worthless, that may be due to style or aesthetic preferences but they may be right. Make up your own mind.

Start below slabby groove about 10m L of Strela, just R of the foot of the major Amphitheatre Gully.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman - 1995-01-01
P1(15m, 22)Teeter into groove and up this and short wall to thread belay (requires nut-key to thread), five bolts, optional #2 cam.
P2(25m, 19)Many people abseil off and avoid this pitch which is a pity as it's good value. Pull up R of the belay and move back L to middle of buttress. Straight up, four bolts, #2½ cam after second bolt, to chain below overhang.
5 :     Indentured Variant Start   -   verified 25m 20mixed
Other
 Big slopes.

Start 1m L of the original start.
Up L to bulge, thin sling, bolt, and up to next bulge, traverse 3m L, up, two bolts, to ledge. Move 3m R to orange crack on original.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth and Keith Lockwood - 1994-09-00
6 :     Indentured   -   verified 70m 18trad
Walk-off
 Generally nice climbing with a spectacular move through the overhang near the top, but spoiled by the first 10m shared with Strela. Could improve with traffic.
On the FA, the overhang at the top was avoided by traversing right and climbing easy ground to finish up a steep flake left of the finish of Strela. The overhang was added by the team doing the variant start.
Start as for Strela, the first chimney-line R of the foot of the Amphitheatre Gully.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Bill Andrews - 1994-00-00
P1(25m, 18)(crux) Up the dirty groove for 10m (large cams) and traverse L along sloping ledge to orange-tinged crack up buttress. Up crack to good ledge.
P2(20m, -)Climb groove from L end of ledge to below roof.
P3(25m, 18)Swing through overhang (large nut, at least #10 wire, not cam) then wall and easy ledges to top.
7 :     Strela   -   verified 104m 12trad
Walk-off
 Not a classic. The first of the major chimney lines accessible without scrambling up the descent gully. The length of this climb is preposterous but it wasn't worth repeating in full to correct the description. If you wish to do so, go ahead. The various possible lines at the top of Strela have all been done as variants to Indentured, Strela and Filling.
Start at the first chimney line R of the foot of the descent gully.
FA: Dave Oldfield, John Rogers (Alt) - 1967-12-16
P1(21m, 12)(crux) The first 10m is hard but protection is OK (large cams). Ascend the chimney (crux passing a bulge of dirt) until a second chimney starts on the R. Traverse R into this chimney and continue to a ledge 4m higher.
P2(37m, -)The bottomless chimney and follow the same line to ledge on the buttress between the two chimneys.
P3(37m, -)Step across the L-hand chimney then traverse, and up to regain the R-hand chimney. Up to below the prows near the top of the cliff.
P4(9m, -)Deep chimney.
8 :     Filling   -   verified     IMG 76m 16trad
Rap-anchor
 Good, though the early part of the first pitch is a bit contrived. Poorly protected in spots. All pitches are about the same grade though pitch three is probably the most serious.
Abseil as for Simpleton or walk-off.
Start at a small groove 3m L of Molar Buttress.
FA: Peter Martin, Steve Jones (alt) - 1989-02-02
P1(25m, 16)Up the groove, a move R, then up the wall with so-so protection to a good ledge.
P2(21m, 16)Take a steep, juggy crack from the ledge then follow the R edge of the compact grey rock via a series of large chicken heads to a superbly fashioned ledge on the R. Probably the best pitch on the climb.
P3(30m, 16)More chicken heads for 4m then easier but not well-protected climbing leads up leftish via a slab, corner and wall.
9 :     Molar Buttress   -   verified     IMG 100m 12trad
Walk-off
 Something to get its teeth into you. The start and finish are enjoyable, but the middle pitches are weird, spooky and poorly protected. All pitches are graded 12 simply because there is no information about individual pitch grades. Take a double-length sling.
Start 9m R of Strela at the initials "MB" below a groove.
FA: Steve Craddock, Sue Priestly (alt) Easter 1965 - 1965-04-00
P1(35m, 12)Gain the groove and follow it to the first big ledge. Traverse 10m R along the ledge before belaying.
P2(15m, 12)Scramble up diagonally R. Step around the arete to gain the ramp that runs back L. Follow the ramp and then step out onto the front. Move L a bit and then up to belay on another big ledge.
P3(25m, 12)Move up a bit and then traverse L to the other side of an obvious horn of rock. Things get strange here and it's hard to work out where to go. Go L to an easy mantle onto a huge, vibrating knob. Move up and R and back R to a weakness in the overhangs. Scuttle up this break to the next big ledge and try to find some anchors.
P4(25m, 12)Quite pleasant climbing up intermittent cracks and walls.
10 :     Toothless Tigers 25m 12trad
Rap-anchor
 Nice arête 2m right of Molar Buttress, between Molar Buttress and Herbal Sim.
Just to the right of the first pitch of Molar buttress, below the right arete of a groove.
Nice arête 2m right of Molar Buttress, between Molar Buttress and Herbal Sim. Finish through slot in overhang to rap anchor as for Herbal Sim.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Joe Cook, Peter Watling, Ray Lassman. - 2005-11-25
11 :     Herbal Sim   -   verified 20m 20trad
Rap-anchor
 An impressive overhang. Originally graded 17! Not too hard but you'ld get a nasty thump if you fell off the crux.
Start 4m R of Molar Buttress.
Up the overhang 4m R of Molar Buttress. Continue directly up to ledge and rap anchor.
FA: Jared McCulloch, Peter Martin. - 1989-10-15
12 :     Disco Dilemma     IMG 35m 22mixed
Rap-anchor
 Great sport first pitch and OK trad second pitch.
"And she's begging you please not to tease her with reason,
Cause all she wants to do is dance.
You're in a Disco Dilemma", Mike Rudd
Two metres right of Herbal Sim below diagonal groove.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth - 2006-11-11
P1(15m, 22)Take R-leading groove (5 FH) to rap station.
P2(20m, 18)Hand traverse left along the break beneath the overhang and swing left onto a steep wall. Up the clean seam to large ledge. Rap from Herbal Sim anchor.
13 :     Gross Encounters   -   verified 80m 17trad
Walk-off
 Not a popular concept. Takes the corner out L of the main Simpleton corner with a loose crux.
There is a chimney/gully 10m R of Molar Buttress; start 1m R of this gully.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Phillip Armstrong (alt), Peter Newman - 1979-09-23
P1(15m, -)Up the line in the short wall to a bushy ledge.
P2(30m, 17)(crux) Take the corner at the L end of the ledge until it fades out. Traverse L to a bushy cave.
P3(35m, -)L to the arete. Up just L of arete with an exciting swing over a bulge.
    Exit Strategy   -   verified     IMGIMG 63m 21mixed
3 bolts
Rap-anchor
 Well protected moves up an impressive and steep wall. Seconds should take prussics and/or not unclip the first bolt until it is at their waist. Gear: take a standard trad rack with a set of wires and cams. A large cam is needed for the Simpleton roof, and save a medium to large cam (BD#2 or Friend #3) for the final horizontal break.
Start: as for Simpleton, from the ledge below Missing.
FA: Steve Toal, Paula Greene - 2012-01-07
P1(43m, 18, 1 bolts)Follow Simpleton up to the cave and continue around the roof and up the corner. Where Simpleton steps right, continue up the orange corner. Tricky moves (might be 19) lead to a DRB belay in the corner at a tiny stance.
P2(20m, 21, 2 bolts)Squeeze past your belayer and make subtle moves up the corner to a horizontal break (cams 20-30mm). Left and up to a flake and bolt. Up to another small flake, finger traverse left to a bolt, then left and up to horizontal break. Exit left onto the arête for a rest. Up the steep but easier grey wall to the chains.
14 :     Simpleton   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 85m 18mixed
2 bolts
Rap-anchor
 A magnificent climb up a great line. The first pitch can be avoided by scrambling up the slabs below Technical Ecstasy and traversing in. Do the finish as described (it's worth it) and save the obvious finish for Technical Ecstasy. Take 1 or 2 large cams (e.g. #4 or #5 camalot).
Start as for Gross Encounters, 1m R of gully.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Ian Guild, Michael Stone 14.5.66. FA Dave Mudie 1975 - 1966-05-14
P1(30m, 18)Climb the short wall to large ledge, up to next ledge and follow overlap R to long, narrow treed ledge where the wall steepens (the scramble from Technical Ecstasy comes in here from the right). Move up then L off ledge and belay on small ledge at foot of huge corner, about 7m below obvious cave.
P2(35m, 18, 2 bolts)Up to cave and out R and up to FH at lip (a thin sling can protect the clip) and follow the line. At 25m exciting moves lead into the thin line just to the R. Belay on a great small ledge with an old (untrustworthy) carrot bolt and bomber trad.
P3(20m, 18)On until 4m below the roof. Traverse L (wildly exposed) across the wall to easy ground.
14a :     Present   -   verified     IMGIMG 65m 26mixed
8 bolts
Rap-anchor
 Slabba-dabba-do! An absorbing, exacting and extremely long pitch. The lengthy co-crux slab sections are unique for the Grampians. Take 6 brackets, cams from micro to #3, and a few wires. There's ledge-fall potential at the 2nd FH (oops). A retrobolt above the 1st bolt (and shifting the 1st bolt a bit lower) would be welcomed. Until then, a quick safer option is to scoot up the easy first 8m of Simpleton, walk R to Present's 3rd bolt, and lower off it to pre-clip/pre-extend the 2nd bolt. You could also climb this as a fantastic 24/5 by starting up Simpleton and linking into this pitch at the 3rd bolt.
Scramble up to the ledge/terrace, 2-3m R of Simpleton, and 8m L of the start of Missing.
Straight up between Simpleton & Missing, past 2 FHs, 5 carrots (glue-in stainless) & Missing's crux bolt. Join Missing only for a bodylength, namely it's crux. Up high, stay 3-4m R of Simpleton until almost at the capping roof. If your rope is "only" 60m long, you may wish to belay here to avoid simul-climbing 5m. Finish out the roof of Technical Ecstasy.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman (as a present from Will Monks when he left!) - 2009-10-31
15 :     Missing   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 70m 23mixed
2 bolts
Walk-off
 A beautiful thin line leads to a large roof at the top of the cliff. You have to be good at placing RPs and other small wires, although the advent of microcams is a boon for this route. To a rack up to #3½ cam, add 2 sets of RPs and plenty of microcams, extra #2½ cam, thin sling and many quickdraws. A bolt was placed on the first pitch around 1996 because the original starting stump disintegrated.
Start by scrambling up Technical Ecstasy for 15m to a terrace on the L where the real climbing starts.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman March-April 1988. Dave Vass made the first lead of pitch 1, before any fixed gear existed. 1st continuous ascent Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd 1989. - 1988-03-00
P1(15m, 22, 1 bolts)Not as well protected as you'd like. Pull onto the wall 3m L of Technical Ecstasy past FH and small cam, then to flake (marginal RPs - the fixed wire is gone). Continue to small stance.
P2(35m, 23, 1 bolts)(crux) Fantastic! Step L into thin line. Up wall and follow line up wavy slab to second wave, traverse L at bulge past bolt (carrot), reach past bulge and move back R to line. Up line, dodgy protection at first, to good horizontal break which is where you join Technical Ecstasy. To belay you can either (a) hand-traverse L below bulge to Simpleton's bolt; (b) take the wild crack through the bulge and then move L to belay in the Simpleton corner; or (c) belay on the line, on the slab above the bulge (as shown in topo).
P3(20m, 22)Back R to line and up easy slab to roof. Step R a metre and monkey out the juggy flake through the 5m roof.
16a :     Technical Ecstasy Direct   -   verified     IMGIMGIMG 75m 23trad
Rap-anchor
 Might get bumped up a grade once the third ascentionist gets back from cleaning his undies to give us his thoughts. The 18m of new climbing is only 2-4m L of the original second pitch, and can be escaped at a few spots. Otherwise, this version of the second pitch is every bit as good as the magnificent second pitch of Missing.
Start as for TE.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Will Monks. Both lead crux, after TR rehearsal. - 2009-05-23
P1(75m, 23)1) (25m 18) Do a short version of pitch 1 of TE, belaying above the great initial vertical crack, 5m below the fat flakes. 2) (35m 23) Blast up the classy seam 2m L of the fat flakes, eventually rejoining the original second pitch for it's wild final cracks. Needs a full rack including a #8 hex, plus extra draws & multiples of micro-cams and micro-wires (and a good ability to place them!). Can be very well protected but gear is quite tricky in 1 or 2 spots. The direttissima finish to this pitch, through the bulge onto the top slab, was also done at bold 19 (and is shown in the topo above) but the original finish is better. 3) (15m 18) As per the original.
16 :     
Technical Ecstasy   -   verified     IMGIMG
85m 20trad
Walk-off
 Another great route with some pretty bold bits on the second pitch.
Start at the toe of the slabs 18m R of Simpleton, just L of a gully.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff - 1977-05-01
P1(35m, 16)Up easy slabs and past blocks to the cliff proper and a nice crack system up a wall. Up the crack to a slab and belay on the second ledge on the R.
P2(30m, 20)Up short, wide, shallow crack (large cam) to a poorly protected reach and so to overhang (alternatively, move R from belay, go up and back L below overhang). Move past L side of overhang to overlap, L to thin crack, wild moves above gear lead up crack to next overlap/break. Go 4m L along this to the next crack/break over bulge (shared with Missing), then go L again to belay in Simpleton corner. You can also traverse L along the major break across missing to reach Simpleton's 2nd belay (at the old carrot), but this is not as good.
P3(20m, 16)Up the last bit of the Simpleton corner to the capping roof and hand traverse L.
17 :     Mania   -   verified     IMG 85m 18mixed
Walk-off
 Good, but not in the same class as the other climbs here. Apparently it should have been called Maniac.
Start as for Technical Ecstasy.
FA: Tim Hancock, Peter McKeand 20.8.70, finishing by long traverse L to roof of Technical Ecstasy. As described: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman April 1988. First pitch variant: Joel Malady, Michael Sim December 1995. - 1970-08-20
P1(35m, 16)As for Technical Ecstasy. An alternative to the first pitch is to belay on the R about 8m below the original belay and climb directly into the second pitch crack.
P2(30m, 14)Move R to a groove on the far side of the wall and climb the groove to belay 10m below the capping overhang.
P3(20m, 18)Up the slab, keeping just L of arete to a wildly exposed pull through the overhang.
18 :     Imbecile   -   verified 24m 23mixed
Walk-off
Toprope
 Very reachy, add two grades if you're less than 190cm tall. The original climb bashed its way up to gain the line R of Mania and followed this line until 24m below the top then aided the final pitch.
The advisable approach is to abseil from the top of Mania into the gully R of Mania and do the final pitch.
Follow a thin crack up the face R of the Mania arete until the line fades. Long move past poor bolt then over bulge to top.
FA: Andrew Thomson, Adrian Davey 19.8.70. FA Simon Mentz, Kieran Loughran, Louise Shepherd November 1991. - 1970-08-19
19 :     Cerambycid   -   verified 95m 15mixed
Walk-off
 Probably worthwhile at the grade. The route originally started as for Imbecile but the route is described here with a better start.
Start about 10m R of Mania, and 5m R of gully.
FA: Andrew Thomson, Joe Friend. (pitch 1 as described: Allan Hope). (Horrible gully start: Derek Vissor, Ann Scholes).(Second Pitch variant: Ray Lassman, Kieran Loughran 12/06). - 1972-04-16
P1(40m, 10)Climb an easy groove about 10m R of Mania (5m R of a gully) until forced L into the gully. Move up to below a line on the R wall of the gully. An alternative start claws directly up the horrible gully. Why would you do this?
P2(30m, 15)Follow the line past an overhang. A scary alternative (16) is to climb the left arete of the line, gained from the gully to the left, to meet the original pitch at the lip of the roof.
P3(25m, 14)On up the line to the top in a very exposed position and continue up final short wall.
20 :     Cul De Sac     IMG 35m 17mixed
Rap-anchor
 Clean slab/wall climbing all the way up to the chains on TSIC. Two BRs (hangers required!) and an assortment of cams and trad gear. Slightly contrived at the start, the hard moves past the first bolt can be avoided by easier climbing to the left, but delightful above. The second bolt is hidden until you get right to it!
Five or six metres left of This Structure is closed.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Peter Canning - 2000-02-05
21 :     This Structure Is Closed   -   verified     IMG 35m 16trad
Rap-anchor
 Despite being an excellent pitch up a superb line, this climb is over 1m high and has no hand-rails. It takes the great corner leading to the right side of the huge overhangs on Central Buttress. Protection is excellent (double up cams to #2½ and throw in some larger ones for luck). Originally graded 17 it has cleaned up with traffic.
Start about 30m R of Mania et al on a boulder below the R edge of the corner.
Step across the gap between the boulder and the wall and go up into the corner, brushing past the revegetation area just to your left. Once into the corner proper things are pretty sustained until a dinky slab move and mantle gain a stance below the capping roof. Further progress is barred by chains (35m abseil).
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman - 1999-03-00
22 :     The Long Paddock   -   verified 75m 14trad
Walk-off
 A nice word, paddock: very evocative. Not a bad climb either. A #4 cam would be handy on the final pitch.
Start below the above-noted alcove (about 50m R of Cerambycid).
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman - 1995-12-02
P1(30m, 14)Scramble up into the alcove and traverse out L along a narrow ledge to below the crack. Pull steeply into crack and up crack until it fades. Continue into the flake crack above to belay on a small ledge, about level with the top of the buttress to the R.
P2(20m, 14)Move to the L end of the belay ledge and follow the line to an area of fragile rock that leads to a terrace at 20m, below the L edge of an awning-like overhang.
P3(15m, 14)Up steeply just L of the overhang. Step back R above overhang and go up to next terrace. Traverse 5m L to belay below chimney/corner.
P4(10m, 14)Climb steeply up L wall of corner.
23 :     Body Bath   -   verified     IMG 15m 22trad
Other
 Probably quite good and certainly unusual. Awkward climbing up the peapods leads to a solid, overhanging corner. A number of Aliens or similar tiny cams are needed to protect the hard move out of the peapods and protection is otherwise excellent.
Start beneath the alcove, just R of The Long Paddock.
The R-hand of the two corners in the alcove. Bridge and chminey up the peapods to a hard move into the top part of the corner. Sustained jamming to the top. Rap anchor.
FA: Louise Shepherd, Simon Mentz - 1991-11-00
24 :     
Median
89m 9trad
Walk-off
 A reasonable, long beginners' climb but it’s hard to work out where it goes and it’s got quite a serious start.
Start 10m around R of Body Bath. The original description says that it starts behind a pine tree. That was 40 years ago. There is a dead pine tree resting amongst the gum trees where I think this climb starts. There used to be a dead pine tree just L of The Long Paddock.
FA: Sue Priestly, Steve Craddock (alt) Easter 1965. - 1965-04-00
P1(40m, 9)Climb up through an undercut break (crux, there is an old initial initial "M" at this break and poor protection), move R a little then up the buttress to belay on the highest point.
P2(24m, -)Good holds lead up a steep wall to a wide ledge below the overhang. Climb up L of the smooth wall.
P3(25m, -)Move 4m L, then straight to the top.
25 :     
Sunstruck
120m 9trad
Walk-off
 Essentially a variant finish to Median except that it exaggerates the length, but it's hard to work out where it goes. Possibly only 10m of independent climbing.
Start as for Median.
FA: D.Smalley, D.Holroyd (alt) - 1974-03-11
P1(40m, 9)(crux) As for Median.
P2(24m, -)Follow Median to the overhang and climb directly over the overhang.
P3(26m, -)Traverse L to line and climb to large ledge.
P4(30m, -)Scramble up diagonally L. Keep the rope on or not as the spirit moves you.
    Glory Without Power   -   verified 15m 15trad
Rap-anchor
 Could be more direct.
Start on the gully face of the Median buttress around R of the overhang system.
Up the steep wall for 7m then L to a thin horizontal break. Up and L to the arete where it meets the overhang. Traverse L above the overhang to the arete and up to top. Abseil off bollard.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman - 1991-04-00
    Grep 8m 16sport
3 bolts
Toprope
 Lovely arete that is too short but good warm-up. Arete leading to tree at left end of ledge below the wall.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth Early 2008.
    Coolsville   -   verified 20m 19mixed
Rap-anchor
 An easy option.
Start below a groove below and L of the L-hand line.
Climb the wall past a bolt into an easy groove that leads to a ledge at 7m. Step R and up steep crack and follow it L to easy arete. Abseil anchor up right.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Allan Hope - 1992-01-00
    The Tenth Dancer   -   verified     IMG 25m 20mixed
Rap-anchor
 The survivor in a war of attrition. Double ropes (and knowing how to use them!) are helpful.
Start as for Coolsville.
Follow Coolsville to the ledge at 7m. Traverse R, (#7 or #8 hex) descending slightly to gain base of central crack. Up crack. Rap anchor to the right.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood - 1994-01-15

Recent Ascents

Pat61 Herbal Simonsight2010-07-28
Pat61P1Disco Dilemmafree2010-07-28
Pat61P2Disco Dilemmafree2010-07-28
Pat61P1Maniafree162009-03-08
Pat61P2Maniafree162009-03-08
Pat61P3Maniafree182009-03-08
Pat61P1Technical Ecstasyonsight2009-02-15
Pat61P2Technical Ecstasyonsight2009-02-15
Pat61P3Technical Ecstasysecond (clean)2009-02-15
peck1963P1Simpletononsight2008-12-30
peck1963P2Simpletononsight2008-12-30
peck1963P3Simpletononsight2008-12-30
peck1963P1Technical Ecstasyonsight2008-12-30
peck1963P2Technical Ecstasysecond (clean)2008-12-30
peck1963P3Technical Ecstasysecond (clean)2008-12-30
peck1963P1Maniaonsight2008-12-30
peck1963P2Maniasecond (clean)2008-12-30
peck1963P3Maniasecond (clean)2008-12-30
Pat61P1Simpletonfree2008-00-00
Pat61P2Simpletonfree2008-00-00
Pat61P3Simpletonfree2008-00-00
walpolemP1Simpletonfree2006-00-00
walpolemP2Simpletonfree2006-00-00
walpolemP3Simpletonfree2006-00-00
kieranlP1Fillingfree161988-00-00

Copyright, ACA, 2012