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The Australian Route Register

Taipan Wall

  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 05. Mt. Stapylton Amphitheatre
This area is locked for editing by the parent crag. Route additions are allowed.
Description:First things first .... TOILET ETIQUETTE REMINDER!
... (a) Before you leave the car, please try to poo in the toilets at Flat Rock car park.
... (b) if you need to poo while at the crag (which should be rare if you adhere to (a)!), then please walk at least 50m (no, 10m from the base of the crag is NOT ok!) and make sure you bury your poo and paper. Please minimise paper use; it can take years to decompose in this dry environment.
... (c) do not burn your paper. Visiting Americans and Euros bringing this practice with them start bushfires all too often - the Australian bush is highly flammable!
... (d) Don't piss on belay ledges, nor on the cliff/base below. Rain rarely if ever reaches these parts of the cliff so your slimy stench will be there for months to ruin it for everyone. The solution is simple: bring a pee bottle if you plan to work a route off a ledge! Aiming to one side or outwards is NOT ok, you will invariably be pissing on other pitches and yes they do get climbed even if not by you.

It's a shame we have to start with the above, but unfortunately the popularity of this great crag is having some side effects caused by those who are happy to shit in their own nest. Don't stuff it for the rest of us!

Now onto the good news. Taipan Wall is widely considered to be the best single crag in Australia, and many climbers consider that it ranks up there amongst the very best crags in the world. It is certainly the most outstanding climbing feature of the Grampians: a 200m long, overhanging wall up to 60 metres high, which positively glows a stunning orange in the evening sunshine. And the wall doesn't only have good looks: the climbs themselves are almost all of incredibly high quality. While a number of climbs unfortunately require a bolt for aid or have a crux move that is grades harder than anything else on the climb, the climbs are nevertheless generally magnificent.

Because of the uniformly excellent quality of the climbing, previous guides have used "Taipan stars", which effectively involved deducting a star from most routes and only giving 3 stars to those particularly sublime routes which push for the mythical 4th star! In a break with that tradition, this guide gives stars wherever they're deserved - and Taipan deserves plenty! To help you work out what is the absolute cream of the crop, look out for the group of "Taipan's Top 5": Daedalus, Cardigan St (pitch 2), Feather Boa, Serpentine, and World Party (pitch 3). It could have also been a "Top 7" because Mr Joshua and The Seventh Pillar are right up there too, or a "Top 9" since Groove Train and Sneaky Snake were added, or ... etc etc (you get the idea).

Despite a reputation of being largely inaccessible to moderate climbers, the truth is that if you climb in the low 20s there are many days' worth of truly fantastic climbing to be had. In this regard it is worth remembering that, at times when difficult multi-pitch routes are all a bit too much, many of the hard classics have excellent easier first pitches. In particular, the following pitches are highly recommended, and have rap anchors:
Sordid Orchids p1 (** 20m 25);
Seventh Banana p1 (** 20m 23);
~Sirocco p1 (* 20m 21);
Medusa p1 (*** 40m 25);
~Seventh Pillar LHV (*** 45m 23);
Seventh Pillar LHV (short version) (*** 28m 22);
~Serpentine p1 (* 35m 24);
Naja p1 (** 30m 27);
World Party p1 (* 20m 21);
Mr Joshua p1 (*** 30m 25);
~Kaa p1 (20m 23).

(The ~ symbol indicates pitches which must be seconded because they traverse too much to allow rap-cleaning).

Gear:You need a full rack, with extra cams in the micro-mid sizes, and 3-4 bolt brackets. Most pitches require 12-15 quickdraws, plus extenders. A 60m rope is required to lower off many routes, and longer ropes are often very handy. A 100m rope has even been used to work Father O from the ground! In any event, you often need every metre of your rope to lower off, and you're often trying to land on a ledge, so there is a real chance of ending up dangling in space or worse. Take careful note of the rap length and pitch length information provided against each route, and **tie a knot in the end of your rope**.

Most routes are partly protected by bolts, with older bolts being in varying states of decay. Many of the worst have been replaced in recent years but decide for yourself whether to trust any bolt. High quality rebolting is appreciated - but ill-advised bolting on Taipan most certainly is not! The community applies a very strong ethic to Taipan, in which bolts are placed considerably further apart than on sport routes, and bolts are placed ONLY when trad gear does not suffice. Please gain an appreciation of this ethic on the existing routes before doing any bolting!

When to go: The prime seasons are Spring and Autumn (Fall if you're a seppo). Most winter days are perfectly adequate provided you dress accordingly (i.e. toughen up princesses!). Summer is the worst as its mostly way too hot, but cooler days do occur sporadically throughout Summer so definitely keep Taipan in mind if you can play the forecast. Because most routes have slopers and/or smooth holds, temperature and humidity conditions have a strong bearing on route difficulty. The wall has shade until 1-2pm so roughly speaking, depending on the forecast daily maximum temperature, you should plan as follows:
>35C: climb elsewhere
28-35C: make a very early start and expect to be roasted off by noon
23-27C: exploit the mornings, but may be ok to carry on in the afternoon sun
17-22C: prime Taipan conditions. Go hard!
<17C: Morning shade will be cold, afternoon sunshine will be glorious, although limited to only a few hours in winter.

Taipan is a good venue on days of light showers, but is not great if it really rains. Despite the large areas of always-dry orange rock, the grey & black lichen streaks will seep. The black streaks can develop a surprisingly strong trickle if there's been decent rainfall, due to the fairly large slabs above which drain down these lines. Also, despite the majority of the crag being overhung, the prevailing southwest winds tend to bring rain into the base onto packs and belayers. Plus, if its anything more than passing showers then the humidity will make all the slopers seem harder to hold on to! And don't count on a retreat to Spurt Wall - despite the huge roofs protecting it from direct rain, it has an amazing ability to soak up moisture and all the crimps become disgustingly spoodgy. So, Taipan is a good choice on days of light showers, but if rain sets in you're better off going somewhere shorter, steeper and thuggier.

Location:Drive to Flat Rock carpark and walk up Flat Rock (noting the difference between "flat" and "horizontal"!). Follow the track down into the Amphitheatre and across the flats. About 300m into the Amphitheatre the track starts to rise again and here the first boulders are met on the left (Trackside Bouldering Area), at this point leave the main track and head left. Follow this track uphill through the boulders for 100 metres or so to a tall boulder on the left with a prominent arete. From here the path up to Taipan Wall is nowadays a well trodden highway, and meets the base of the cliff between The Great Divide and Seventh Banana.

Descents: for climbs on the left half of the wall (i.e. all routes left of, and including, Serpentine), the descent is by a 40 metre abseil from the top of Clean Sweep. Anchors atop other routes (such as Divided Years, Father O, Cardigan St and Mirage) are either unsafe to access from above or are poorly arranged for rope pulling, so the Clean Sweep anchor is the only option. It is recommended to get your bearings beforehand (e.g. from the top of Flat Rock) as the anchor can be a little tricky to find from above. Traversing along the top of the wall to this anchor is quite exposed, particularly the section above Father O. While some people opt for the scary traverse on the very edge of the clifftop, this is not trivial above Cardigan St and the fall potential could hardly be worse. The better option is probably to stay about 12m back up from the clifftop above Cardigan St and Father O but this is still quite exposed so take care, and if in doubt rope up. Once you're at the Clean Sweep abseil anchor, make sure to test-pull the ropes before the last person comes down because the ropes regularly get jammed on this abseil. Hint: the last person should step to abseiler's left to avoid laying the ropes in the offending groove on the lip. Right of Serpentine it is not safe to walk unroped along the clifftop, and descent details are specified against each individual route below.

This page is based on Kieran Loughran's 1996 Stapylton Amphitheatre guide, but that has been significantly expanded here by Will Monks - the number of Taipan routes has more than doubled since 1996! Please send corrections etc to [email protected]

Rock:   Walk:   15-30 mins
Wet Weather:Dry
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:willmonks


Map One

(scaled down)


1 :     Mission Over Tokyo Gunigalg Gully Connection 45m 8trad
 The easiest way to the top of Taipan if you want to pre-place gear or take photos from rap. It is also a great beginners route with excellent rock, big features and good pro.
Start 3m L of Mission Over Tokyo (to avoid it's tricky starting crack).
Climb most of the first pitch of Mission Over Tokyo then step left across the void of the Gunigalg Gully chimney. Easily up the slabby left wall of this, into the boulder choked gully, and up the short right wall to the top.
FA: Andy Pollitt?
2 :     Mission Over Tokyo 40m 18trad
 A couple of exciting moves but the rest is ordinary.
Start about 10m down left of Atomic Tadpole at far left edge of wall and about 15m right of the major vile-looking chimney of Gunigalg Gully.
FA: James McIntosh, Melanie Taws (alt) - 1988-01-30
P1(20m, 18)Up the short tricky crack, step right then up slab and belay before steepening.
P2(20m, 18)Up until level with roofline to right. Dangle right around the arete then easily up face to final steepening. Exit left.
3 :     Atomic Tadpole     IMG 40m 20trad
 An attractive climb with an intimidating finish. Usually done in a single pitch.
Start on the elevated ledge, just L of the boulder, at the base of the nice face crack in the middle of the grey slab.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff - 1977-04-30
P1(30m, 18)Up finger crack to overhang, dangle around then up slabby wall to belay below headwall.
P2(10m, 20)Boldly up faint scoops on headwall (small shallow wires).
4 :     Posy     IMG 30m 24mixed
3 bolts
 A selection of the various flowers, plus some nice poses of its own.
Start on top of the big boulder perched on the ledge between Atomic Tadpole and Tokyo Rose (but it's a better more sustained pitch if you start up UG).
Trend R up the easy slab (adequate pro found on the R). Cross Tokyo Rose, then join Ukrainian Geranium for 8m over bulges to the start of the upper slab. Now traverse 3m R to FH in major grey streak, then up to break. Move R to join Sordid Orchids Direct past it's final 2 FHs, to rap anchor (28m). Full set of cams and wires, and several long draws (or double ropes).
FA: Will Monks, Mike File - 2005-10-01
FFA: 1999-00-00
5 :     Tokyo Rose 45m 18trad
 Obvious line, but the second pitch is ordinary. Improved by finishing up the second pitch of Mission Over Tokyo (i.e. by doing Tokyo Connection instead).
Start in the square orange corner at the right side of the grey slab, about 8m R of Atomic Tadpole, on the elevated ledge.
FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws - 1987-06-13
P1(25m, 18)Climb the corner to the roof and traverse left below the roof, crossing Atomic Tadpole to belay on the arete.
P2(20m, 18)Follow the diagonal crack up left through a small overhang to a vague ledge. Step right, climb the arete and exit left at the steepening. Has also been done by continuing from the 'vague ledge' up the vague leftwards diagonal (poor pro) to the arete of the chimney (as shown in the topo above).
6 :     Tokyo Connection     IMG 45m 18trad
 Takes in the good pitches of Tokyo Rose and Mission over Tokyo, and avoids the rubbish.
Start as for Tokyo Rose.
P1(25m, 18)As for Tokyo Rose pitch 1.
P2(20m, 18)As for Mission over Tokyo pitch 2.
7 :     Ukrainian Geranium     IMGIMG 40m 21trad
 This ground-up effort felt all the more intrepid for being established in single-digit temperatures with no fewer than three hailstorms on the way. It's the best moderate route down this end of the wall.
Start 2m R of Tokyo Rose (Tokyo Connection), and 2m L of Sordid Orchids, on the elevated ledge.
FA: Will Monks, Kevin Lindorff (alt), Joe Goding - 2004-09-11
P1(25m, 21)Thin orange corner then diagonally up L with feet dropping into TR for a move or two. Steeply over bulge and up the short orange flake on the R to gain slab. SHB below white bulge.
P2(15m, 20)Move R over white bulge to ledge. Leftward arcing thin orange corner to the intermittent headwall crack 4m R of Atomic Tadpole's finish.
8 :     Sordid Orchids Direct     IMGIMG 28m 26mixed
5 bolts
 Extends the first pitch of Sordid Orchids by 12m and adds three bolts. Sustained wall climbing with crimpers and reach moves. Climbs more like a Blue Mountains wall climb rather than a Taipan steep sloper fest.
Start as for Sordid Orchids.
Climb Sordid Orchids to horizontal break after last RB. Instead of traversing off right into the birdshit, head straight up wall above (FH), step left (#2 camalot) and then up again (2 FHs). At large slopey rail step right into Sordid Orchids pitch 2 and climb this for 2m to a single U-bolt loweroff (60m rope required). Above this U-bolt is the aid move on Sordid Orchids pitch 2.
FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks - 2005-01-26
9 :     Sordid Orchids     IMGIMG 38m 26 M1mixed
5 bolts
 A good line spoilt by a single aid move on the second pitch. The first pitch is a popular and well chalked line with a handy lower-off, but beware that falls before the 1st bolt have strained a few ankles on the swing into the slab below.
Start at the flake/seam 5m right of Tokyo Rose, on the elevated ledge.
FA: Pitch 1: Chris Shepherd, Parrish Robbins. Pitch 2: Parrish Robbins, Nick White - 1990-03-00
P1(18m, 25, 2 bolts)Up the right-facing slabby flake (wires) to undercling (small cam(s), make it bomber). Burly moves to jug (RB). Crux crimps past 2nd RB to break, traverse R to guano ledge and DRB (18m). Wash your hands afterwards to safeguard against bird flu!
P2(20m, 26 M1, 3 bolts)Take bolt brackets. Climb the closed corner above the ledge past 1 or 2 old fixed wires (bring your own too) then traverse left to gain the overhung ramp. Follow the ramp past three bolts (2nd bolt for aid) then up the headwall past final bolt to top. The aid move (an awkward dyno to a tricky catch of a pocket) might go free at 30+ if the strong persist.
10 :     Black Adder     IMG 25m 29mixed
 A beautiful natural line but unpopular due to its rusting bolts and bizarre traversing.
Start at the first anchor of Sordid Orchids Pitch 1, on the guano-stained ledge.
Drop down, traverse 4m right and go up flake to roof. Right below roof for 5m and over lip (crux). Traverse 5m right to finish beside Clean Sweep. Approx 5 bolts?
FA: Pete Cresswell, Andy Pollitt - 1990-12-00
FFA: 1999-11-30
    Dinosaurs LHF??m - Unknown
 In 2009 some new bolts appeared in the groove which goes up the steep bulge about 5m L of the finish of DDD. This is being approached via a cool girdle from Sordid/Blackadder (2 ropes, drop 1 halfway), but could also start up DDD. There were already some old carrots here... Carrigan's?
11 :     Dinosaurs Don't Dyno     IMGIMG 35m 26trad
 The dyno identifies many dinosaurs. A superb climb up the intermittent flake system.
Start 10m R of Sordid Orchids on the elevated ledge, which at this end is about 10m above ground level.
Follow the thin flake past a sea of fixed rubbish to a pin. Hard moves lead straight through the dyno, then traverse R to the continuation of the flake. At the roof move R and up a shallow groove to the top.
FA: Kim Carrigan - 1984-09-12
12 :     
Lure Groove     IMGIMG
35m 25 M1mixed
2 bolts
 "That rusty bolt was by far the best bit of gear on the route" - Dave Jones. An obvious arete that sprouted a mystery bolt in the 90s but was never climbed.
Start as for Dance of Life.
Aid on the bolts and monkey R to the arete as for Dance of Life. Then trend L up the arete, into a funky groove and up to a long-awaited rusty FH (the Lure). There is little protection for quite a distance before this lone bolt. Join Clean Sweep (better) or Dinosaurs Don't Dyno (easier) for the last few metres.
FA: Richard Heap, Dave Jones - 2005-11-24
13 :     Clean Sweep     IMGIMGIMG 40m 24 M1mixed
1 bolts
 For almost 25 years this route has largely been neglected due to a reputation for having a runout crux. In reality, it can be completely sewed up if you have plenty of micro-wires and a blue alien, and the endurance to hang around and fiddle them in. Plus the climbing is simply immaculate and, even despite the aid bolt, this must be a strong contender for the best 24 in the Grampians.
Start as for Dance of Life.
Aid on the bolts and jug R to the arete as for Dance of Life. From there climb straight up the grey faint groove with fantastic sustained moves all the way to the horizontal breaks, then directly up the excellent blunt arete.
FA: Kim Carrigan - 1985-04-16
14 :     Dance of Life     IMGIMGIMG 35m 24 M1mixed
2 bolts
 Outstanding and unlikely climbing on amazing rock, with great pro and a bouldery finish.
Start just R of Dinosaurs Don't Dyno, on the R end of the elevated ledge. But belay at ground level to reduce rope drag and improve communication.
Delicately sidle R and slightly up along the small ledge/slab, until it terminates in a hanging 'horn' of rock. A tricky reach off the horn gains a RB and BR. Aid on these to gain the flake, then monkey R to the arete. Trend R and up the gorgeous orange scoops to large break (optional belay). Continue up flakes to crimpy finish (BR). Full rack, extenders and 2 bolt plates.
FA: Kim Carrigan - 1984-11-24
15 :     Dance of Life Clean Sweep Connection     IMGIMGIMG 45m 23 M1mixed
1 bolts
 Some link-ups are hardly worth recording, but this one is notable because it avoids the cruxy moves of each route, leaving amazing sustained climbing around grade 22 with bomber pro the whole way. In fact, you'd be hard pressed to find a better 23 in the Grampians.
Start as for Dance of Life.
As for Dance of Life to the horizontal break 10m below the top, step L 3m, and finish up the lovely well protected blunt arete of Clean Sweep. Needs double ropes to do it in a single (ultraclassic) pitch. Has also been done by going further L along the break to the deceptively tricky finish of Dinosaurs Don't Dyno, but this needs a hanging belay and is not as classic.
FA: FRA: Will Monks, Kevin Lindorff, James Pfrunder - 2004-09-25
16 :     The Mint     IMG 42m 21trad
 Fun traversing on superb aesthetic stone. Full set of cams. Has also been done by starting up the unpleasant flakes 10m L of Great Divide (see 16a on topo). You can do a 150m girdle of Taipan, via The Mint, Arabic Mint and Lawrence of Arabia (the full thing is yet to be done in a single push).
Start just R of Dinosaurs Don't Dyno, on the far right hand end of the elevated ledge. Put your belayer on the wide ledge 6m below the start, so they can see the crux.
FA: Will Monks, Mark Rewi (alt), Neil Monteith - 2005-01-15
P1(32m, 21)Step down from R end of ledge to hand traverse R under large roof, cross Great Divide, and continue traversing R to Seventh Banana's first anchor.
P2(10m, 17)Continue traversing R to Sirocco's first anchor. Rap off (18m).
17 :     The Great Divide     IMGIMGIMG 50m 27mixed
3 bolts
 Wonderful climbing based on the sharp, undercut arete right of Dance of Life. The crux is very hard, but very short. If you pull on the crux bolt it's an excellent 25M1. Take 3 bolt brackets, a full rack incl. 2 #3.5 cams, and 15-20 quickdraws.
Start directly below the impressive hanging arete which soars upwards from the R side of a large roof. This is just L of where the walk-in meets the cliff, and is where the track along the base balances along the top edge of a large smooth-faced boulder.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Martin Scheel - 1984-10-29
P1(35m, 27, 3 bolts)10m easy grey slab, beware some friable rock, to desperate orange slab with a tricky-to-clip BR. Follow flakes to the steep groove on the R side of the arete. Crux past BR to break, then L and up L side of arete, 3½ cam & BR. At big break move R to belay in small cave.
P2(15m, 24)On up face, veering slightly right-wards to top.
18 :     Divided Years     IMG 16m 25mixed
4 bolts
 Steep scoopy 'World Party' start then thin technical finish. Well protected and convenient for climbers who end up on the ledge above the left end of Taipan.
Start on top of Taipan Wall: this route is a rap in and climb out affair between The Great Divide and Daedalus. Locate double rap rings on ledge about 10m south of the Clean Sweep rap chains.
Rap down wall aiming for double ring belay at right end of horizontal break. You will need to be pushing off and swinging in to reach this anchor - the wall is steep! Traverse left across horizontal (FH), then up into water funnel scoop (two FHs) to small cave. Out right side of this cave on crimpers past final FH to juggy gritty finish. #3 SLCD and a few medium wires are all that is required in the trad department.
FA: Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson & Hannah Lockie - 2005-12-04
19 :     The Chick is Trouble     IMG 18m 26mixed
1 bolts
 A nice mini-pitch, although the crux is several grades tougher than the rest.
Start 15m R of Great Divide, below the flake which is a few metres L of Seventh Banana pitch 1.
Easy grey rock leads to roof. Turn the lip with difficulty (FH), to gain the flake. Nice moves up flake and face, to the first belay of Seventh Banana. Rap off (20m).
FA: Ross Taylor - 1999-06-28
20 :     
Daedalus     IMGIMGIMG
35m 28mixed
 This alternative second pitch to Seventh Banana is rather runout at times, but it's also an incredible sustained line, and is the first climb we get to which is in "Taipan's Top 5". May not yet have seen a ground up ascent.
Start at the first anchor of Seventh Banana.
Up Seventh Banana pitch 2 for a few moves then move L (crux past the first bolt), and blast up the somewhat sparsely bolted grey streak to the top. Approx. 7 bolts?
FA: Julian Saunders (26M1), Dave Jones (28) - 1997-10-00
FFA: 1999-11-30
21 :     The Seventh Banana     IMGIMG 60m 27mixed
1 bolts
 A good aid climb turned into a great free climb. The first pitch is worth a star or two in its own right and is justifiably very popular with Taipan virgins. A couple of post-crux bolts on pitch 2 were replaced in late 2011, but not the crux bolt (volunteers please!).
Start 25m R of The Great Divide, and 8m R of The Chick is Trouble.
FA: FA Nick Reeves, Dave Mudie, Steve Due (alt) 27.4.75 FFA Steve Monks and Jane Wilkinson - 1988-02-00
FFA: 1999-00-00
P1(25m, 23, 1 bolts)Up shallow orange flake/corner to the large deep break, then traverse 5m L to pocketed roof (an alternative but inferior start is as for TCiT). Over roof (RB) on pockets, then follow flakes up and L to a ledge and DRB (20m rap).
P2(35m, 27)Some great moves in prime positions, but unfortunately not very sustained. Up to smooth wall, then step R past the original aid BRs to an old ringbolt and the desperate slabbing crux, to a good rest. Up the incipient crack to the bulge and over this with difficulty. Up and L to a good slot and up to another slot and then a fingery wall leads to the top. This pitch has a few old bolts, exact number TBA.
    Chinook     IMGIMG 35m 28sport
 As for Sirocco pitch 2 past the first bolt (doing it's crux), then move L and up for 25m of new climbing between Seventh Banana and Sirocco to the top.
FA: Graeme Dick - 2013-06-13
22 :     Sirocco     IMGIMGIMG 55m 26mixed
5 bolts
 Another classic up this unlikely looking section of cliff. The crux at the start of the second pitch is ridiculously hard, and can be quite demoralising. Some prominent international climbers have suggested up to 8a for this move! It is also enjoyable, and far easier, to pull on that one bolt to reduce the grade to 25M1.
Start about 20m R of The Seventh Banana, and 3m L of The Seventh Pillar.
FA: Malcolm Matheson - 1989-05-00
P1(23m, 21, 1 bolts)A popular pitch in its own right, for many their first on the wall. Has a distinct move which makes grading highly subjective, enough said. The pocketed open corner doesn't reach the ground: gain it via a short pocketed slab 5m to the R (direct up the slab beneath the corner is insecure unprotected 21). Corner past FH (rebolted April 2011) and then jug L along break to belay ledge. For 2 decades the anchor was an eyesore of shitty fixed slings, then for 2 months it was some underwhelming fixed wires, now it is DRB (18m rap).
P2(32m, 26, 4 bolts)Delicately up factor 2 territory for 3m to break (small cam), then lunge up L past bolt via diabolical crux. Mantle and crimp straight up to the 2nd FH (don't go R to Father O's 2nd RB like lost Euros often do!). Step L and blast up wall above, through bulge, then veer R (again, don't clip any RBs on Father O'!). Move back L and up final wall to a new (2011) lower-off (30m+, tie a knot in the end of your rope!). 4 FHs, fixed thread, wires and cams up to #3.
23 :     Father O'blivion     IMGIMGIMG 32m 26mixed
7 bolts
 Extraordinary moves on immaculate rock. If you're picky you might deduct a star due to the numerous rests, and the bouldery crux start being several grades harder than the final 25m. Tougher than many Taipan 26s, but easier than Sirocco so it can't be 27 ... can it?! Often repeated using only the bolts with some 6-8m runouts, but most people also use a couple of wires and cams.
Start on the first belay ledge of Sirocco.
Start as for Sirocco pitch 2, delicately to the horizontal break at 3m (cam). Step R then up cruxy wall (2 RBs) to ledge. Step R to RB, up the juggy scoop (wires), then veer L to stance below roof. RB on lip, then a long reach/dyno gains the delightful grey headwall (3 RBs, cam). Lower-off (30m+ to ledge, **tie a knot in the end of 60m ropes**, or 48m to the ground). Rebolted ~2006.
FA: Simon Mentz - 1991-01-00
FFA: 1999-00-00
    Pythonesque     IMGIMG 35m 27mixed
 A good option if you think Father O eases off too much after its crux.
Start as for Father O.
As for Father O until just past it's 3rd bolt. Now head up the R side of the scoop, through bulge past 2 FHs and 2 RBs (thin crux direct past 2nd RB) to break. Trend R to top. Take cams & wires. If that's not enough harder climbing for you then throw in the worthwhile direct start, from the middle of the belay ledge and heading up L (good tiny trad) to Father O's first bolt.
FA: Will Monks - 2013-04-18
24 :     Cardigan Street     IMGIMGIMG 60m 31mixed
11 bolts
 HB had previously dabbled in this vicinity while searching for a second pitch for Mirage, but after he declared the second pitch groove "impossible" nobody bothered with it for years. Luckily no one told Stuart, who sauntered in and snared one of "Taipan's Top 5". Unfortunately the first pitch is ridiculously cruxy, so most people rap in to do pitch 2 only.
Start as for Sirocco.
FA: Pitch 2: Stuart Wyithe (late 1995), Pitch 1: Garth Miller (2nd shot!) - 1998-04-00
P1(35m, 31, 4 bolts)Follow Mirage for 18m to gain the hanging slab atop the steep white corner. Now doddle up L past bolts to the start of the groove, and more easily to hanging belay at chain (30m rap).
P2(25m, 28, 7 bolts)Amazing climbing up the line of shallow water scoops in incredible red stone, 7FHs to chain (25m to 1st belay, 55m to ground).
25 :     Mirage     IMGIMG 65m 32mixed
15 bolts
 Variety! Pitch 1 is the famous HB dyno route as immortalized by Simon Carter's photos in the early 1990s. Take a full rack up to #2.5Fr, including Aliens, RPs, and sling runners (and/or double ropes) to minimise drag. Pitch 2 is all bolts up an incredible wall.
Start as for Sirocco.
FA: Malcolm Matheson (pitch 1, 1990). Quentin Chastagnier (pitch 2, March 2013) - 1990-00-00
P1(35m, 27, 3 bolts)A great series of features. Follow pitch 1 of Sirocco to the horizontal. Swing R along this to tricky white corner and gain slab (FH). Trend R and up technical slab and finally the infamous big dyno between buckets (battered FH), to lower-off (25m, but a 60m rope barely reaches if it's still through all the gear so **tie a knot in the end**).
P2(30m, 32, 12 bolts)Straight up the beautiful red wall, with a kink to the right at half height, to a rap anchor at the top. Yet another contender for the best pitch on the wall. Bolted by Julian Saunders in the early naughties but succumbed to the charming Frenchman a decade later (he approached from Seventh Pillar LHV, with some grade 26 mono moves off the top of the flake to move left to Mirage's first anchor, so as to do the whole thing in a single 60m pitch. The new link and the 60m version both got their own names (Serpent Dans l’Herbe (Snake in the Grass), and Orange Desire ... but reports differ on which name applies to which section of climbing!).
26 :     HB's "It Might Go" Line (project - closed) 35m - mixed
3 bolts
 This is what Malcolm's original thinking was for the 2nd pitch of Mirage. Apparently he thinks it might go so best stay off.
Start atop the first pitch of Mirage.
Traverse L past FH into the top of p1 of Cardigan St and up this a few metres to it's first belay. Continue up the first few metres of p2 of Cardigan St then traverse L past FH to faint arete. Up this to where it fizzles out (FH, bail biner) then blankness to the top. Bolts are now clearly corroded.
FA: Equipped Malcolm Matheson ~1990?
27 :     
Arabic Mint     IMG
25m 25trad
 A great section of traversing, the addition of which enables a 150m girdle of Taipan, via The Mint, Arabic Mint and Lawrence of Arabia (the full thing is yet to be done in a single push). Be aware that the slot on the arete captures your rope, which doesn't seem to create drag or rope cutting potential for the leader, but does create rope cutting potential if the second falls off the crux (as happened on the first ascent: the sheath was completely severed but thankfully the core survived). The leader should consider obstructing the slot and/or padding the problematic sharp edge, and/or the second should try to flick the rope out of the slot before leaving the corner.
Start at the end of The Mint (the first anchor of Sirocco). Can also be worked from the ground by starting up the first 15m of Mirage.
Reverse the Sirocco pitch 1 traverse then take the Mirage traverse to the white corner. Swing R to obvious slot on arete, up a little then back down to a break which leads into Lawrence of Arabia. Cams to #4.5 camalot, wires. Descent requires creativity if not continuing into LoA.
FA: Will Monks, Adam Demmert - 2008-02-23
28 :     
Medusa     IMG
40m 25mixed
3 bolts
 The main attraction is a seductive groove on the second pitch reminiscent of Cardigan St, but with lesser quality rock and a sullied history. For those who "only" climb 25, the first pitch is very worthwhile in its own right and deserves a lot more traffic than it gets - especially since the old bolts were replaced (2009).
Start as for The Seventh Pillar.
FA: Pitch 1: Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter early 1995 - 1995-00-00
P1(40m, 25, 3 bolts)Follow the Seventh Pillar LHV for 25m to the bolts at the top of the flake, and then rightwards for a few metres up the runout face. Where SP LHV traverses R to the break, instead continue up past 2 more bolts (the runout to the 1st bolt is fairly secure for a 25 climber), via excellent climbing, to a hanging belay just below break (32m rap, can lower off with a 60m rope - but only just!).
P2(-,-)25m, 29 (open project). This pitch moves R to gain the distinctive line of water scoops about 8m L of the prominent flake on Seventh Pillar pitch 2. This pitch was "enhanced" with a glue edge by Poultney, but he never sent it (and the glue edge has now gone). On his "belayer's lap" Dave Jones sent the pitch at 29, with a token sit down low. And there it remains - unfinished. If slightly dubious rock and the now old bolts don't bother you ... help yourself. The 29 version moves R at the top of the groove before gaining the major break, however the direct to the break should go around 31/2, and the line then continues above the bushes to the top of the wall. Do NOT rely on the rap anchor just below the bushy break - it uses only one bolt, of a type which has often failed. About 8 bolts?
29 :     
The Seventh Pillar Left Hand Variant     IMGIMGIMG
43m 22mixed
1 bolts
 The crux is immediately after the bolts at the start of the traverse, so the second needs to be stronger than the leader! A heady megaclassic ... but also a brilliant consumer-friendly 22 if you lower off the bolts at the top of the flake (25m).
Start as for The Seventh Pillar.
Follow The Seventh Pillar for 18m to the major horizontal break. Swing left into flake crack and up it. Bolts at the top protect the crux, which is followed by a longish rightwards runout to the horizontal. Traverse 10m further right along this to rap chain (22m rap, can *just barely* lower off with a 60m rope). Extend all gear before the bolts, otherwise the flake is a real rope eater and rope drag will be hideous.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Col Reece, Eddy Ozols - 1980-10-00
30 :     The Seventh Pillar Free Variant     IMG 8m 28mixed
2 bolts
 This short variant halfway up the second pitch was the final link for the whole line to go free.
The independent bit starts 10m up pitch 2 of The Seventh Pillar.
Break L from the top of the initial fat flake/corner on pitch 2 of TSP, 2 bolts and hard moves take you over the bulge and up the thin face to gain the guano-stained flake on the original.
FA: Dave Jones, mid 90s?
31 :     Seventh Pillar Direct Finish     IMG 12m 28mixed
2 bolts
 A superbly positioned bouldery little pitch.
Start at the second belay of The Seventh Pillar.
Blast up the surprisingly overhung headwall, trending a little R, past 2FHs and a medium cam. Trad anchor.
32 :     The Seventh Pillar     IMGIMGIMG 113m 18 M2mixed
12 bolts
 This was the first route up Taipan Wall, an incredible achievement for the time, and remained the lone route on the wall for many years. It is still a stunning classic that generally follows a series of flakes and horizontal breaks trending rightwards up to the very highest point of the wall. Whether you do it at 18M2 with 3 sections of aid, 22M1 with one point of aid (via LHV) or free at 28 (via variant), it is a fantastic excursion. The remnant original fixed gear should be treated with suspicion, although enough bolts have been replaced to avoid death route status.
Start at the very faint initials "SP", about 5m L of where the major flake system doesn't quite reach the ground (or bridge the tree direct).
FA: Ian Guild, Mike Stone (var.)(16M4) (16, 17, 18 May 1966); Andrew Thomson, Kim Carrigan (18M2) 1974; Kim Carrigan, Kieran Loughran (22M1) 1/5/82 - 1966-05-16
P1(40m, 18 M1, 9 bolts)Up the short pocketed wall, move 5m R and follow flake up R to horizontal break. Squirm R for 8m to awkwardly gain bolt ladder up white streak. Bring plenty of hero loops. One free move off the last bolt gains new DRB SHB (22m rap).
P2(30m, 18 M2, 2 bolts)Step L and free up flake to a blank steep wall (please step left here and remove the unsightly 5m fixed rope!). Long reach to bolt, use it for aid to gain the next flake and either immediately revert to freeing (22M1), or keep aiding on RPs (18M2), to move L around the roof to the guano stained tip of the major flake. Continue up flake to a large horizontal break (with one final aid move for the 18M2 version). Crawl in for a lying down belay followed by an all-night bivvy (like Guild and Stone)...or take the far cushier hanging belay.
P3(18m, 1)The most outrageous grade 1 on the planet. Squirm awkwardly R to end of ledge and new DRB (45m rap).
P4(25m, 18, 1 bolts)Follow the steep flake line up diagonally R (PR, BR) to the steep corner up the L side of the final tower, to a dangling topout at the very highest point of Taipan Wall.
33 :     The Seventh Pillar Right Hand Variant     IMGIMG 14m 22mixed
2 bolts
 Sustained moves in a fantastic position.
Start at the original 2nd belay of Seventh Pillar (i.e. at the guano-stained stance halfway up the 2nd pitch as now described).
Extend high pro, then step down from the belay to traverse 3m R to incipient flakes. Up past 2 FHs and straight up grey streak (med wire) to gain major break. Move L to belay as for the original.
FA: Will Monks, Kevin Lindorff - 2004-10-09
34 :     Malcolm's Dyno Line (project - closed) 50m - mixed
4 bolts
 Rumoured to have an impossibly long dyno on the 2nd pitch above the lip of the main roof and, according to Dave Jones, 'Malcolm only ever bolted this because he'd just done Mirage and thought he could dyno the full height of the cliff'. Even if the 2nd pitch doesn't go the first pitch looks great and it's a shame to have it rotting away bolts and all...anyone know if HB sent it? Or has opened it up?
Start about 15m R of The Seventh Pillar, where there is a lonely FH below the major horizontal of Lawrence of Arabia.
FA: Equipped Malcolm Matheson early 90s?
P1(30m, -, 4 bolts)One FH and hard-looking moves, to gain THE break about 6-8m R of the Seventh Pillar bolt ladder. Continue up the desperate looking face past 3 FHs which trend R into a thin L-facing flake. Follow this to a chain below the main roof (30m rap).
P2(20m, -)This is the left-most bolted line through the major roof which extends all the way from the Seventh Pillar to Serpentine, halfway up Taipan. If the roof/dyno weren't impossible the water scoop/arete climbing above looks amazing. It appears to finish at the 3rd pitch traverse break of the Seventh Pillar.
35 :     Quetzalcoatl (project - closed) 54m 29mixed
 This one will go - Dave has managed it in several different overlapping sections. Please stay off.
Start at a hanging belay in Lawrence of Arabia, about 15m R of the Seventh Pillar bolt ladder.
FA: Equipped Dave Jones
P1(40m, -)Some very hard face moves past a FH to gain a thin R-facing flake (Malcolm's Dyno Line takes the L side of the same flake/rib). Follow this up to the main roof. Move R then out the roof and up the wall above to finish roughly in the middle of the 3rd pitch of The Seventh Pillar. Finishing direct is meant to be 33/34 on monos, or a deviation to the left will let the whole thing go at reachy grade 30ish. I don't think Dave has opened it up so best stay off for now.
P2(14m, 29)The headwall pitch past a couple of FHs, starting roughly in the middle of the third pitch of the Seventh Pillar. This pitch has been sent so knock yourself out.
36 :     Feather Boa     IMGIMGIMG 61m 29mixed
 This is something special, even by Taipan's lofty standards. The magical long sustained main pitch uninterrupted by rests puts this route in the rarified atmosphere of "Taipan's Top 5". After some high profile spankings it seems to be settling in as being about a grade harder (not a grade easier!) than Serpentine, so Dave's original grade of 28 has been bumped up to a solid 29...and may not stop there!
Start at a hanging belay in Lawrence of Arabia, about 6-8m R of Quetzalcoatl and 5-6m L of Scud Buster. It's best to do the LoA approach once, then fix a 12m rope back to the ground. This way you can belay from the ground and jug/batman the fixed rope to avoid the long approach.
FA: Dave Jones - 1998-00-00
P1(47m, 29)The gear (mostly FHs but some med. cams down low and a small wire up high) is a bit spaced but right where you need it. Steep slab climbing (crux) up to the main roof. Bust out the roof, trend R a bit then up the sustained wall to the 3rd belay of The Seventh Pillar (45m rap).
P2(14m, 28)Cute. Straight up the steep headwall above the belay.
38 :     Lawrence of Arabia     IMG 100m 21trad
 2 long traversing pitches which give fantastic perspectives on the daunting territory above. Take lots of cams of all sizes.
Start as for The Seventh Pillar.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Malcolm Matheson (alt), Richard Smith - 1991-10-00
P1(50m, 21)Follow The Seventh Pillar to the base of the bolt ladder. Ignore the bolts and instead keep traversing right along the break to belay wherever.
P2(50m, 21)Keep swinging R along the break until you can step onto the ground. Put enough gear in to keep your second off the ground as the break gets closer to the ground.
39 :     Scud Buster     IMG 25m 25mixed
4 bolts
 Some fantastic slabbing in the prime central part of Taipan. Originally 24, recent attempts by a prominent slab master suggest it could be 26 or more! For now we are splitting the difference.
Start at the first belay of Lawrence of Arabia. Either do LoA's 1st pitch, or jug up Feather Boa's 8m fixed rope and traverse 8m R along the break. The latter is much quicker and avoids the hanging belay if the leader uses double ropes and drops one after 15m.
From the R end of the roof-like section of the horizontal, head up on pockets (thread, #3-4 cam). Continue slabbing past 4 hangerless bolts (rebolted 2011) to ledge below main roof. Traverse 5m R (small-med cams) to the first belay of Serpentine. Rap off (20m).
FA: Richard Smith, Andy Pollitt - 1992-00-00
40 :     Serpentine Direct Start (project - open) 25m - mixed
 This is the bolted line directly below Serpentine's first belay, and is one of three 15m bolted variants to Serpentine. Some Serpentine aspirants stick-clip their way up this to avoid doing Serpentine's first pitch!
Start directly below the first belay of Serpentine.
1 FH below the Lawrence of Arabia break, then a few more FHs up the faint arete above before joining Serpentine's first pitch for the last 10m to the belay (25m rap). After so long this is surely past the statute of limitations for closed projects, so feel free to put it out of its misery.
FA: Equipped by Nick White?
41a :     Angst     IMGIMG 40m 29mixed
 Makes Rage an independent line, providing another awesome pitch up the most majestic part of Taipan.
Start as for Serpentine pitch 2.
Follow Rage for 5 bolts then head left to wide runnel, follow right side of runnel to just below roof, span left across runnel, then up to roof. Follow right side of next runnel to top. Another variant has been bolted (see 41b in topo) which moves left after only 1 or 2 bolts of Rage and up the faint arete to join into Angst.
FFA: Adam Demmert - 2011-06-12
41 :     Rage     IMGIMGIMG 40m 29mixed
5 bolts
 A 15m variant to the first part of the second pitch of Serpentine. Slightly harder than Serpentine.
Start as for Serpentine pitch 2.
Pull through initial roof on Serpentine then L via very thin moves to red jug on beautiful sheer hanging red face. Trend back R past 3rd bolt and up subtle arete. When the arete finishes trend L via more hard moves past 5th bolt, to rejoin Serpentine at the horizontal break.
FA: Andy Pollitt - 1992-00-00
42 :     Serpentine     IMGIMGIMG 72m 29mixed
11 bolts
 This famous line was the first route on the wall which cried out for the mythical fourth star. Naturally, it's in "Taipan's Top 5". Be aware that the bolts are bash-ins (with FHs) and are now over 25 years old, although they still look pretty good. PLEASE DON'T PISS ON THE BELAY LEDGE (bring a pee bottle for long belay sessions). Aiming left or outwards is NOT ok, you WILL be pissing on other pitches and yes they do get climbed.
Start on the cairn on the raised ledge, directly below the obvious huge arete of Naja.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, Steve Monks - 1988-02-00
P1(32m, 24, 3 bolts)Crank off cairn to break, then traverse L for 6-8m. Up over bulges past FHs, to a slopy ledge (#3 cam). (Don't go diagonally up L from 2nd FH, there's no gear). Traverse L to short arete and up this (FH) to belay (25m rap).
P2(40m, 29, 8 bolts)This is why they rave about Taipan. Roof, trend R across scoop, hug up turret to horizontal break. Move L then weave up wall to the top. 8 FHs. Trad anchor, or lower 32m off the last bolt (the fixed biner is looking dodgy, please replace).
43 :     Sidewinder     IMGIMGIMG 30m 27sport
 Another excellent 15m variant to Serpentine.
Start as for Serpentine pitch 2.
Follow Serpentine pitch 2 for 12m until halfway up the fridge hugging. Trend R and up past bolts to loweroffs (30m to 1st belay, 52m to ground). The loweroff is somewhat diagonal - be careful not to end up hanging in space.
FA: Scott Walter - 2000-08-00
44 :     Naja     IMGIMGIMG 40m 30sport
8 bolts
 After the long years of Steve and others being spat off before Dave cleaned it up, it's apt that this genus includes the Spitting Cobra! The strongest line on all Taipan, this is the left-facing arete bounding the right side of the massive scooped out area right of Serpentine. It is more closely bolted than most other Taipan routes, although they're getting a bit the worse for wear. The whole thing can be worked from the ground using a 70m rope (but only just!).
Start as for Serpentine.
FA: Equipped Steve Monks 1990ish?, sent by Dave Jones - 1998-00-00
P1(25m, 27)Gain the arete and follow it, mostly sub-25 but with an insecure dyno past the 2nd bolt. Consider a cam before the (rusty) 1st bolt, not least to avoid knackering yourself if you come off the tricky next moves. Above the 5th bolt its a bit runout to the anchor (20m rap).
P2(15m, 30, 8 bolts)Continue up the arete with much better climbing. Unfortunately it gets increasingly guano-stained up high, so take a brush, but you can avoid the worst/highest section of guano by moving left before gaining the anchor (37m rap). Awaiting the obvious extended finish from the guano ledge to the top.
45 :     Sneaky Snake     IMGIMGIMG 55m 33mixed
 The visionary black streaks and water grooves about 5-8m R of Naja.
Start as for Naja.
Up Naja for 2 or 3 bolts then traverse right via an obvious undercling flake a few metres above the low roof. Use long (2m) extenders for this section. Now follow the incredible grooves, ignore the half-height anchor, and continue up via amazing sustained climbing on slopey edges to the top of the wall in one single mega pitch. Rap anchor (55m). Stopping after 30m at the DRB is about 29, with some tricky sideways runouts at the grade.
FA: Lee Cossey - 2011-04-23
45a :     Nether     IMGIMG 30m 28 M1mixed
 Almost completely superseded by Sneaky Snake, especially until the low aid move gets freed. But still worth recording, for those who can't climb 33!
Start 6-8m R of Naja.
Pull on 1 or 2 bolts to get through the low blank bulge, then follow the awe-inspiring water groove in the incredible steep sheer wall 6-8m R of Naja. Finish at the half-height DRB. The start aid move has reportedly almost been freed, but will be MUCH harder - open project. In April 2013 Quentin Chastagnier tried a variant start about 5m to the left, on trad, which included a sideways downwards jump from a break to a hold on the lip!
FA: Lawrie Dermody - 2006-04-21
46 :     Groovy (+ The Groove Train)     IMGIMGIMG 45m 33sport
10 bolts
 The original version (Groovy) takes one of Taipan's best scoop lines and is ultra classic in it's own right. The new extension (Groove Train) is now the hardest route on the wall, and according to Ethan Pringle is one of the best three 5.14s in the world.
Start 10m up L from the base of Invisible Fist. This scramble/traverse is 10m off the ground and trickier than it looks so consider belaying across.
FA: Richard Heap (Groovy, Jan '97), Ben Cossey (Groove Train, 16/3/09) - 1997-01-00
P1(25m, 28, 7 bolts)Groovy. Follow the disconcertingly holdless groove, deviating left around a blank bit at 15m via some crux cranks. Exciting finish well above bolt to rap anchor (30m to ground). Solid for the grade.
P2(20m, 33, 3 bolts)The Groove Train. Climb it in 1 pitch from the ground, not as a separate 2nd pitch. The sheer face above the finish of the Groovy groove is sparsely bolted up the black streak to a lower off. Obviously, it's affected by seepage. Equipped by Zac Vertrees and Mike Law (with the top lower-off added by Jake Bresnehan), this was worked by a who's who of Australian hard-men for 7 years before Ben's success. Given 33 by Ben, hard 8c+ by Dave Graham, 9a by Ethan ... make up your own mind.
47 :     Snake Flake     IMGIMG 48m 26mixed
4 bolts
 A strenuous single pitch, mostly superb 22-23ish but with a distinct hard section. It takes the main arete-like thing bounding the L side of this large red scooped out section of cliff.
Start on the elevated ledge, 3m L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up.
FA: Malcolm Matheson (originally starting up Invisible Fist - he added the direct start through the roof with Jacqui Middleton and Neil Monteith on 25.5.03). - 1990-00-00
P1(28m, 26, 4 bolts)Easily up ramp/corner to break under roof. Scuttle R to strenuous roof flake (FH) and onto slab. A small arete (hangerless bolt) leads to the much steeper main arete with 3 FHs. A bomber titanium (!) piton plus a few small-med cams protect the roofy juggy finish to the rap station (30m to the ground).
P2(20m, -)Garry Philips bolted a 2nd pitch / extension in 2006 (still a closed project). It's a V9-ish traverse R from the anchors to the black streak, then straight up the black streak to a fairly low anchor (45m to the ground). The idea will probably be to climb it as an extension to the first pitch rather than as a separate 2nd pitch. However this version seems mostly redundant since the completion of Southern Delight and Snake Flake Direct Extension.
47a :     Snake Flake Direct Extension 48m - sport
 Just another incredible looking line on Taipan. It's the orange streak directly above Snake Flake's anchor. Grade and stars TBA.
FA: Lee Cossey - 2013-04-30
48 :     The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich) (+ Southern Delight)     IMGIMGIMG 41m 34sport
15 bolts
 If you use the anchor, shout AD a beer for fixing it up. Probably the most popular route on Taipan - not least because of it's spoodgy grade and the quantity of shiny stainless steel!
Start on the elevated ledge, just L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up, below a well-chalked slabby thin flake.
FA: Gordon Poultney, Chris Jones (p1). Extension: Kilian Fischhuber 3/8/2012. - 1996-01-00
P1(26m, 26, 7 bolts)Up slab to rooflet then mantle onto slab. Delicately up this to horizontal, slap the slopers, ride the horsey, monkey up the flake and dyno like a madman to lower-off (30m). Take two #5 Rocks if you can afford them.
P2(15m, 34, 8 bolts)The extension through the bulge (bolted by Ben Cossey/Al Pryce) and up the black streak on the headwall to the top (bolted by Garry Phillips) was sent by Kilian Fischhuber on 3/8/12. As usual in this guide, this is written up as a "second pitch" so that the easier first pitch is also recorded, however the hard version is best climbed in a single 45m pitch to the top. Kilian calls this version "Southern Delight".
49 :     Fisting Party     IMGIMGIMG 50m 26sport
15 bolts
 A link-up of The Invisible Fist into the top pitch-and-a-half of World Party. One of the greatest single pitches in the universe for anyone with the stamina. Almost a sport route (15 bolts) with only two medium wires being optional on the entire route.
Start as for Invisible Fist.
Climb Invisible Fist to the 2nd last ring, then step right (new FH) into the slopey rightwards traverse of World Party pitch 2. Finish up pitch three of World Party - the 'best 24 in the country'. Rope drag is ok if you use extenders and roller-biners appropriately, but could be horrendous if you don't.
FA: Neil Monteith (split into two pitches) - 2006-03-04
50 :     Jumping Viper     IMG 28m 26mixed
7 bolts
 A Central American snake, vilified by some Mexicans.
Start on the elevated ledge, 4m R of the boulder and 2m L of a small tree.
The wall between IF and WP, then finish up IF past it's last bolt. If you're not as long and strong as Rhys, its still ok to do at 26M1 by pulling past THE jump move in the middle. The extension out the scoop/roof to the lip has 2 bolts in it and is an open project.
FA: Will Monks (26M1)
FFA: Rhys van Gastel - 2013-04-00
51 :     World Party     IMGIMGIMG 53m 27mixed
9 bolts
 And here we find the last member of "Taipan's Top 5": the stunning final pitch is one of the very best on the wall. Before you get there, there's a hard crux on the 2nd pitch. The hanging 2nd belay is best avoided by linking pitches 2 and 3, while pitch 2 is easily worked from the ground if you have a recalcitrant belayer.
Start on the elevated ledge, 7m R of the top of the boulder and just R of the small tree, at a short fat flake on the slab.
FA: Peter Cresswell (1), Andy Pollit (2,3) - 1990-12-00
P1(20m, 21)A worthwhile pitch in its own right, although all the mantles are somewhat above gear. Up the slabby flake then 4m R along breaks. 3 slithery mantles lead to rap anchor on ledge (18m). Cams, med. wires.
P2(13m, 27, 4 bolts)Follow fused flake up L with increasing difficulty, then a draining fingery traverse back R to 3 bolt anchor (8m to 1st belay, 25m to base).
P3(20m, 24, 5 bolts)Brilliant. Tough moves out slopey 3m roof flake, past the only remaining original bolt - consider a small cam just below to back it up. Now blast up the very steep and very exposed water groove past 4 bolts and a spicy final runout. A wire can reportedly be finagled in on the top runout, but with all that air below your remaining energy is probably better spent in braving the final moves without it! DRB rap anchor (48m to ground).
52 :     World Party Anaconda Pitch 1 Link-up 25m 16trad
 Nothing flash by Taipan standards, but certainly recommended for those at the grade wanting a taste of the fabled Taipan.
Start as for World Party.
Follow World Party for 8m to horizontals. Traverse R along horizontals until 4m R of Constrictor, to finish up short flake onto slab and mantle to the 1st belay ledge of Anaconda and rap chains (15m).
53 :     Constrictor     IMG 18m 21mixed
3 bolts
 Squeezed in! A Taipan slab route with a crimpy crux down low.
Starts 3m right of World Party, just left of small bush growing out of horizontal crack.
Boulder up tenuously onto orange slab and good pocket (FH). Step left slightly and climb slopers directly to join World Party at large horizontal. Traverse right across this for four metres to short vertical flake. Arrange pro and balance up flake onto slab (FH). Finish up slopers (FH) and over final committing bulge to ledge. Rap chain (18m).
FA: Neil Monteith - 2004-11-08
54 :     Anaconda     IMGIMGIMG 53m 28mixed
8 bolts
 Suffocatingly powerful. Can be led as one giant pitch.
Start at large expanding left-facing flake 8m right of World Party.
FA: Malcolm Matheson & Simon Mentz - 1993-01-00
FFA: 1999-00-00
P1(18m, 21, 2 bolts)Not a great pitch. Expanding flake (FH), then traverse left across break (FH) and up slab to chain belay (15m rap). A few medium-large cams are useful.
P2(35m, 28, 6 bolts)Straight up (2 FHs) to stance on the left, then rightwards out bulge with sustained endurance climbing up to big roof. Over 2 roofs into water runnel above (2 FHs). Follow the L side of the final scoop to new anchor (it used to finish off L to the WP anchor as shown in topo).
55 :     Forked Tongue     IMG 20m 26mixed
5 bolts
 A rising traverse line across a major feature linking Anaconda into Mr Joshua.
Start at rap chain at end of first pitch of Anaconda.
Climb Anaconda's 2nd pitch for two bolts then out right into white 'cave'. Scuttle across this (2 UB's) and then go-go-gadget span between scoops to reach juggy flake. Swing across this (large wires/cams) then up final scoopy headwall (UB) to join into Mr Joshua pitch 1 for last move. Backclean, or get some idiot to second then rap off (38m).
FA: Equipped and dogged by Neil Monteith 2005 FFA Toby Pola - 2006-05-28
56 :     Mr T     IMGIMG 30m 25mixed
9 bolts
 Totally classic ... but it's hard to give the third star when it's only an 8m variant of the first pitch of Mr Joshua.
Start as for Mr Joshua.
At the post-crux horizontal break of Mr Joshua's first pitch, (after the 6th bolt) step left and climb left side of scoop past two FHs to rejoin Mr J at it's last bolt. Lower off (28m to tree then swing back in to ledge, or 38m to ground).
FA: Garry Phillips - 2006-09-00
57 :     Mr Joshua     IMGIMGIMG 43m 26mixed
12 bolts
 The brilliant first pitch is one of the most popular at Taipan and was a very impressive effort by the young bumblies Jared and Simon. Often cited as the best 25 in Australia. Pitch 2 is far less popular, but still excellent.
Start from the R-hand end of the ledge, 4m R of Anaconda's flake - and set a belay.
FA: Pitch 1 Jared McCulloch & Simon Mentz 15-07-1989 Pitch 2 Jared McCulloch 18-10-1989 - 1989-10-18
P1(28m, 25, 8 bolts)Pockets and mantles to ledge. Move R along wide break then slopes lead to a spike hold. Head R to arete then up to break. Blast up the R side of the groove above, finally trending L to a compact cave with DRB lower-off (28m to tree then swing back in to ledge, or 38m to ground). A #2.5Fr is needed to eliminate nasty fall potential below the crux bolt, & most climbers also place 1 or 2 large wires & a #3.5Fr.
P2(15m, 26, 4 bolts)A techy big dyno to start, then some great technical moves up the vague arete. 4 bolts & rap chain (15m to 1st belay, 48m to ground).
57a :     Sheek Naja Ket     IMGIMGIMG 38m 30sport
11 bolts
 Established after a tip-off from Jake the snake Bresnehan. "Named in honour of a great man, and possibly the best climb on the wall". Given 31 originally but has quickly been knocked down a grade.
Start as for Mr J.
Up most of Mr J p1 then, instead of going diagonally left past the last bolt to the cave, continue directly up. The crimpy orange wall has 4 more bolts and takes you about 4m R of Mr J p2, right to the top. A 70m rope can lower off the last bolt to the ledge - just! It's only a sport route if, like most grade 30 climbers, you skip the trad gear on Mr J.
FA: Ben Cossey, Al Pryce - 2008-10-27
58 :     The Old Dog (project - open) 18m - mixed
6 bolts
 a.k.a Enter the Dragon, a.k.a. Mortal Combat. This is the subtle groove about 6-8m R of Mr J's arete, and is yet another line on which all the moves have been done but it still hasn't been sent. It'll be at least 32.
Start at the DRB at the base of Venom.
Trend L past FH, through desperately blank looking bulge, to follow the line of anti-holds up the attractive faint groove, joining Venom at the big break.
FA: Equipped Rich Heap
59 :     Tourniquet     IMGIMG 40m 30mixed
4 bolts
 A variant to Venom.
Start as for Venom.
FA: Dave Jones (p1 1/97, p2 98) - 1997-01-00
FFA: 1999-11-30
P1(20m, 30, 4 bolts)An 8m direct variant to Venom pitch 1. As for Venom for 12m until established on the L side of the groove. Instead of traversing R, continue direct up the L side of the groove past 2 FHs to rejoin Venom at the major horizontal break (optional lower-off here). Traverse L to belay.
P2(20m, 27)As for Venom pitch 2 until past the bulge and into the cave. Then take the L arete of the cave/scoop. It has no rap anchor - make a very exposed traverse R to Kaa's anchor (belay recommended).
60 :     Venom     IMGIMGIMG 40m 28mixed
4 bolts
 A beautiful scoop of rock with a tenuous traverse and remarkably sustained climbing for the length of the scoop. The business is a little short to rank up there with Taipan's very best, but it's still a 3 star route.
Start at the DRB atop Kaa p1, accessed as described above. (There is an old direct start with a couple of bolts (described on the Spurt Wall page), but nobody bothers with it).
FA: Steve Monks early 1995 - 1995-00-00
FFA: 2030-00-00
P1(20m, 28, 4 bolts)This pitch is almost a sport route as it contains a few fixed wires to supplement the bolts, but most people also put in a few medium cams. It's a very popular pitch due to its squishy grade, and is many climbers' first 28. Step right past FH and up reachy wall past fixed wires to big break. Swing over rooflet (fixed wire) then traverse R across scoop. Pump up the subtle R arete of the scoop (2 FHs + fixed wire) then a tricky conclusion up L to break. Clip-and-go lower-off (16m to ledge, 30m to ground), or if you're continuing up pitch 2 scuttle 5m further L along the break to belay. Originally, pitch 1 finished directly up the R side of the scoop to a ledge at the R end of the break (with at least one bolt), but this necessitated an intermediate traverse pitch and so is not the best approach.
P2(20m, 28)Rarely done. Up through scoops into cave above. Out right side of cave to top. There's no rap anchor - make an exposed traverse R to Kaa's anchor (belay recommended).
61 :     Rattlesnake Shake     IMGIMG 28m 26mixed
7 bolts
 Ho hum, just another fantastic Taipan route. You'll be shaking on the slab section! Continually bouldery climbing split by good rest stances.
Start as for Venom on the ledge 15m off the ground.
Traverse right as for Kaa pitch 2 (small-med cams), past the black streak with 2 FHs (don't clip them, that's the "Rattler" direct start, which is grade 27, see 61a on topo), almost to Kaa's second bolt (don't clip this either!). Straight up grey streak above past 6 FHs and a fixed wire up high. Route finishes in large cave at rap rings (35m to the ground). You need a 60m rope to (laboriously) tramline back to the belay, or a 70m to lower off to the ground.
FA: Neil Monteith (the Direct Start "Rattler" was freed by Kent Paterson 26/9/11) - 2007-05-12
62 :     Kaa     IMG 80m 24mixed
9 bolts
 Wanders around like crazy in order to follow the ‘weaknesses’, but still worthwhile. Nearly all the bolts are in poor condition - please contribute to rebolting. You also need a light trad rack.
Start at ground level at the prominent left-leading flake that is located towards the right end of the Spurt Wall bouldering traverse, directly below Venom.
FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood - 1992-00-00
P1(25m, 23, 1 bolts)Average. Climb the flake to gain a ledge, then move off its left end past a FH (rebolted 2011) then up face and right along ledge to DRB (placed ~2005, 14m rap).
P2(25m, 24, 3 bolts)Move up and right past FH to a horizontal break. Traverse right (med. cam) and up past FH to another horizontal (cams). Right again beneath FH in steep territory (incredibly awkward to clip from below, incredibly bold to clip from above), then make a hand-traverse back left just above FH, and onto ledge with DFH (25m rap possible).
P3(15m, 24, 3 bolts)Step R, up to roof, then L to FH. Dangle out R through overhangs past 2nd FH, ignore 3rd FH, and trend R to a delicate last move onto the terrace and DFH (35m rap). A harder alternative (25) is to head straight up past the 3rd FH (see 62a on topo).
P4(15m, 23, 2 bolts)Pull up to diagonal ramp and follow it up L to spike/jug on arete. Up steep face, moving L to faint groove (wire), to rap anchor back over the clifftop. The 50m rap straight to the deck is not recommended due to rope drag. Instead, lower back to the 3rd belay, then rap 35m off Rattlesnake Shake’s DRB.


news   Merry X-Mas!
posted by gremlin to the general dept. on thu 11th dec 2008 @ 10:20 pm
offical news
0 responses

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