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The Australian Route Register

Lower Taipan Wall

  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 05. Mt. Stapylton Amphitheatre
This area is locked for editing by the parent crag. Route additions are allowed.
Description:A schizophrenic crag, very accessible but mostly unclimbable. Most of the existing climbs are worthwhile. The first climbs start from a terrace left of the orange overhangs. Find The Rubicon and Tyger,Tyger to give reference points on this terrace.
Location:Follow the track into the Amphitheatre to Trackside bouldering area. Instead of heading uphill to Taipan, stay on the tourist track for another 150m or so until the compact orange overhangs of Lower Taipan are only a few metres to your left. The climbs are described from left to right and are in the shade until early afternoon.
Rock:   Walk:Varied terrain   15-30 mins
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:willmonks


Map One

(scaled down)


1 :     
Bad Habits   -   verified
25m 20 M1trad
 Despite the good climbing, the dangerous batman start off a jammed knot is likely to discourage people. It's not clear whether the first ascent used the batman technique or abseiled in to a hanging belay 5m above the deck! Maybe the tatty slings should go and people should place a hook from a long stick and batman up to it.
Start about 20m L of Slap and Tickle.
Batman to jammed sling and pockets then up diagonally R to the horizontal break. Step 2½m R along the upper break on good holds then up on amazing pockets past a small scoop to the top.
FA: Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh - 1997-11-04
2 :     Slap And Tickle   -   verified 15m 24mixed
 24 (!!)
L of Natural Wastage
Nudge, nudge, wink, wink, say no more! Rib, starting from cairn, (glorious overstatement!) past 4 bolts.
FA: Nick White, Nicky Sunderland - 1991-00-00
3 :     Natural Wastage   -   verified     IMG 30m 25trad
 Good, hard climb up a gorgeous wall.
Start a few m L of The Rubicon.
Enter a small L-facing corner from the L, climb the corner (old piton) and go R to a block. L and up on pockets to horizontal break. Up.
FA: Steve Monks, Nick White - 1990-03-00
4 :     The Rubicon   -   verified     IMG 40m 18mixed
 A stream in wet weather.
The major vertical corner from the terrace.
The corner provides good jamming and bridging. Near the top, step L and finish up a nice crack.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Andrew Thomson - 1972-11-11
5 :     Non-Passerine   -   verified     IMG 40m 22mixed
 They shall not perch.
Start 5m R of The Rubicon.
Boulder overhanging wall, to ledge at 5m. Up face (2 bolts, #4 RP) to next ledge (crux). On up wall past another bolt then R a little and up (#1½ cam). The final 15m is quite easy.
FA: Kieran Loughran - 1990-11-00
6 :     Tyger, Tyger   -   verified     IMGIMG 20m 27mixed
 Burning bright. Has been seeing a resurgence in popularity.
Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of The Rubicon.
Corner, roof and wall to chain (pegs, bolts).
FA: Nick White, Andy Pollitt - 1990-04-13
7 :     Time Warp   -   verified 15m 16trad
 An old style route. (There is another climb called Time Warp near Hall's Gap).
Start about 10m R of Tyger, Tyger.
The obvious corner L of Their Finest Hour.
FA: Matt Walsh, Campbell Mercer - 1997-11-04
8 :     Their Finest Hour   -   verified 15m 21trad
The second line R of Tyger, Tyger.
A crack leads through an overhang off the terrace to an easy corner. Rap off using the new (2007) chain on Centaur.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Maureen Gallagher, Nyrie Dodd, Geoff Little - 1990-08-00
9 :     Blunt Instruments   -   verified     IMG 43m 14trad
 The first 20m or so of this route is excellent. It basically follows the blunt arete 5m L of Centaur. Strenuous climbing but on huge holds. (There is another climb called Blunt Instrument at Black Ian's).

Start just L of the arete.
Traverse in just above the severe undercut then follow the blunt arete which provides excellent wall climbing with good pro. Rap off using the new (2007) chain on Centaur.
FA: Campbell Mercer, Rob Pease - 1997-10-02
10 :     Might & Power   -   verified 20m 17trad
 Bouldery start with no pro (a high runner in Centaur may help).
Start 2m L of Centaur.
Boulder off the block onto the lip of the face to the discontinuous grooves then step L to the next obvious groove. Superb pockets come to hand when the going gets interesting. Up the face to the parallel runnels which become deeper cracks higher up. Rap off using the new (2007) chain on Centaur. (Originally finished at the obvious ledge and traversed off L).
FA: Matt Walsh, Campbell Mercer - 1997-11-04
11 :     Doriemus   -   verified 20m 15trad
 Bouldery start with no pro (a high runner in Centaur may help).
Start 2m L of Centaur.
Boulder off the block onto the lip of the face to the discontinuous grooves. Up the face to the parallel runnels which become deeper cracks higher up. Rap off using the new (2007) chain on Centaur. (Originally finished at the obvious ledge and traversed off L).
FA: Matt Walsh, Campbell Mercer - 1997-11-04
12 :     Centaur   -   verified     IMG 43m 13trad
 An enjoyable lower grade climb up a great line, which should become more popular now that it has a rap chain (since May '07).
Back down at ground level, just before the track passes under the overhangs there is a major corner.
FA: David Mudie, Andrew Thomson - 1970-09-19
P1(21m, 13)The crack just L of the corner to a ledge. Up the chimney to another ledge below a large roof.
P2(22m, 13)Step across the gap and move around the roof and up the corner. The route originally topped out, but a chain has been added allowing a 30m abseil to a ledge 2m off the ground at the base of the climb. People using this abseil should wear helmets because of the fragile nature of the rock.
13 :     Icarus   -   verified 61m 11 M4trad
 You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade.
Start 15m R of Centaur below the first weakness in the huge overhang.
FA: Andrew Thomson, David Mudie - 1970-09-22
P1(37m, 11 M4)Follow bolts and the odd other piece to lip of roof. Continue up line until able to free to a ledge.
P2(24m, 11 M4)Move L of the line, up the overhanging crack and up to the top.
    Zeus V13
 Start just left of the new FHs beneath Pegasus.
A rightwards rising line of well chalked slopy incuts on a beautiful orange 45 degree wall.
FA: Sam Edwards
14 :     Pegasus   -   verified     IMG 55m 31 M2mixed
 Something of a hybrid. The first pitch is free except for one long aid point. The less significant second pitch still holds a few aids.
The next hanging corner R of Icarus is now easily identifiable by 2 shiny new FHs on the steeply undercut face below the corner. (This is a closed project which is attempting to free the batman start (extremely bouldery)).
FA: Thomson, Mudie (M4, 8) 22.8.70. Andy Pollitt 30.11.90. - 1970-08-22
P1(24m, 31 M2)Batman to the first bolt above the FHs, continue up corner past dodgy old "Pollitt ring-bolts" to abseil anchor.
P2(31m, - M2)Free up to ledge below crack across roof. Aid roof and up to top.
15 :     Gilgamesh   -   verified     IMGIMG 62m 31mixed
 Magnificent. HB almost freed it (30M1 - 1 point) but it took another 15 years for Ben to finish it off, by the skin of his teeth. So far he's suggested "maybe 30, 31" for the grade - we'll go with the latter!
10m R of Pegasus.
FA: David Mudie, Stephen Due August 1974. Malcolm Matheson (One point) 90's. FFA Ben Cossey 28/10/08 - 1974-08-00
P1(35m, 31)Hard moves take you R through the roof 10m R of Pegasus to crux into bottomless corner. On up corner to belay.
P2(27m, -)Easy ground.
16 :     Project (Nic Sutter) 15m - sport
 About 10m L of Inkido Roof is a line of FHs and RBs leading into an appealing orange corner/seam above the big roof, with DRB halfway up the corner where the climbing obviously eases.
17 :     Inkido Roof   -   verified     IMG 12m 27mixed
 This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls.
Start 25m R of Gilgamesh at the R end of the low rooves.
Up wall 25m R of Gilgamesh. Traverse L in break until corroded fixed hex in roof can be clipped. Follow flakes to slot in roof (#2, #2½ cams) then past 2 rusty FHs to lip.
FA: Malcolm Matheson - 1993-05-00
18a :     Apollo   -   verified     IMG 35m 22mixed
7 bolts
 Start as for Zeus.
As for Artemis, but from the 1st bolt go 5m further L to narrow ledge. Great sustained moves up orange flakes and L over roof, onto the long pumpy headwall, finishing at a lower-off. NOTE: a 60m rope is probably NOT enough to lower off (a 70m should reach, but check first!).
FA: Will Monks, Vanessa Wills - 2008-07-12
18b :     Artemis   -   verified     IMG 27m 21mixed
4 bolts
 Start as for Zeus.
Up Zeus for 5m then traverse 5m L. Builds up nicely to a fun roof at the top.
FA: Will Monks, Jill Gara, Ross Timms - 2008-06-28
18 :     Zeus   -   verified 40m 17trad
 Start 8m R of Inkido Roof.
FA: Melanie Taws, James McIntosh - 1987-01-10
P1(25m, 17)The crack.
P2(15m, -)The chimney, then step L to the jugs. The quickest walk-down is the gully between Lower Taipan and Reprisal Wall. Find this by bashing 50m back to Afterglow Wall, then go 80m R until you're underneath Between the Sheeps bouldering area. Turn R away from the rock and after 30m you're at the top of the gully.

Copyright, ACA, 2012