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The Australian Route Register

The Plaza Strip


Crag:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 05. Mt. Stapylton Amphitheatre
This area is locked for editing by the parent crag. Route additions are allowed.
Description:A remote area tucked away at the far Southern end of Mt Stapylton, but handily right near the summit tourist track. The routes are generally thin and a little steep, or gritstone like. A great place for a hot summers afternoon if you can handle the long approach walk. A good way to combine all day shade is to climb at Taipan/Spurt in the morning then walk right to Plaza Strip for the afternoon - it's only about 100m from Afterglow Wall to the Plaza Strip (hint: hug the base of the cliffs R from Afterglow Wall, following the terrace 10-15m above the Between the Sheeps bouldering, and in no time you'll emerge from beneath the big roof of Hip Bath).
Location:Refer to map one level up! Walk up Flat Rock and then past Lower Taipan Wall on tourist track, continue up slab then follow tourist track as it hooks 180' back left and heads towards Mt Stapylton summit. When the track turns right, bush bash in for 50m to cliff. Alternative access is to walk directly right from Spurt Wall, past Afterglow Wall, to the Between the Sheeps bouldering cave. Another 50m right and above is this crag. It's only 20m from the tourist track. If you end up lost, follow the tourist track to the summit, and if you end up traversing left under a big chossy cave, you are actually walking above the crag. Walk back to find it. Shade after midday.
Rock:   Walk:Varied terrain   30-60 mins
Wet Weather:Damp
Kid friendly:YesAuthor:willmonks


Issues

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Map One

[IMG]
(scaled down)

Routes

1 :     Hip-bath   -   verified     IMG 20m 16trad
Walk-off
 A small climb with lots of interest. Traverse left from the start of Foot-Spa along the lip of the roof. Follow the diagonal crack up right then wriggle back left, finishing up headwall just right of the arete.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran - 2004-09-25
2 :     Foot-Spa 15m 19trad
 Start 20m left of Bass Rush on short grey face.
Climb the blank face on horizontals (small SLCD), then finish up juggy crack.
FA: Nick McKinnon, Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith - 2000-09-23
3 :     Bass Rush     IMG 15m 23sport
Lower-off
 Steep start up wall with big moves leads to thin face. 4 ringbolts and double RB anchor.
FA: Neil Monteith, Nick McKinnon - 2000-09-03
4 :     Pentridge Smack Delivery 13m 24mixed
 Arete 3m right of Bass Rush.
Boulder problem rounded arete past 2 rings leads to easy naturally protected slab. Reachy crux.
FA: Nick McKinnon, Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert - 2000-09-23
5 :     Evil Elf 20m 17trad
 Start 10m right of Pentridge Smack Delivery at short layback corner crack.
Up layback and onto slab. Climb thin crack splitting wall above just right of wide crack. After reaching big break at 15m keep climbing upwards to belay on large ledge.
FA: Andy Hein (US), Neil Monteith - 2000-12-03
6 :     The Finisher     IMG 15m 19trad
Lower-off
 Despite appearances this route is clean, has huge jugs and responsibly good gear.
Start on block 3m righ tof layback crack. Up seams on slab to base of arete. Follow thin right leaning crack up arete, staying to left side until the final exciting steep juggy conclusion. Lower-off anchor.
FA: Nick McKinnon, Neil Monteith - 2000-12-03
7 :     Technorganica     IMGIMG 18m 24mixed
Lower-off
 Start 10m right of easy layback.
Sustained and thin climbing up orange wall. Four RB's and some small/medium wires for crux. Rap off ring and chain. Upgraded from grade 23 after several recent failures.
FA: Neil Monteith, Andy Hein & Nick McKinnon - 2000-12-03
8 :     Exile on Main Street   -   verified     IMG 20m 26sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 5 meters right of Technorganica. Start on obvious jugs. Up via technical moves on pockets and slopers. Hard moves gain jug rail. Easier ground leads to big moves on slab.
FFA: Joshua Grose - 2012-06-12
    From the Womb to the Tomb   -   verified     IMG 13m 27sport
5 bolts
Lower-off
 Powerful corner climbing at its best
Start about 20m right Technorganica around the right side of the arete.
Stick clip the first bolt. Climb starts about 2m right of corner, climb up
to horizontal crack, traverse this to gain corner proper. Continually
powerful moves up corner to exit it on the left then traverse back right
over the top of it to DB lower off. Extension is an open project.
FA: Adam Demmert
FFA: 2010-00-00
    Adam Project 2??m - sport
 2m right of Adam Project 1
    Prowess   -   verified     IMGIMG 20m 24sport
Lower-off
 A steep prow! Starts 10m right of From the Womb. Up scoopy ledgy wall to horizontal break. Skip left and then blast up black prow. A #3 Camalot could be useful to avoid a runout.
FA: Mark Gould - 2008-05-00
    Nipper   -   verified 15m 13trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 The left-hand, curving line on Bullant Wall. The finish is a bit of a surprise.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, Tim Lockwood - 2003-07-05
    Sting   -   verified     IMG 15m 20trad
Walk-off
Toprope
 Nice laybacky flakes up bulging wall 3m right of Nipper. Could be a soft touch for the grade, but it's a bit pumpy for a lingering leader.
FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth - 2003-07-05

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