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The Australian Route Register

11. Centennial Glen (incl. Wave Wall)

Region:NSW
  - 08 Central Tablelands (inc. The Blue Mountains)
    - 06. Blackheath (incl. Shipley Plateau, Centennial Glen, Perrys Lookdown, etc)
This crag is unlocked for editing, and its areas are unlocked. Area additions are allowed
Description:The home of sport climbing in Australia. This controversial area has been the scene of some very public debates about ethics of all kinds: chipping, bolting, climbers' toileting habits, interactions with bushwalkers, and even the climbing environment itself. Note that chipped holds did occur here, but they have all been filled in years ago. Nowadays chipping is NOT acceptable here (or anywhere else for that matter).

The climbing is short, fun and very very sporty.

Location:The crag is easily accessed by two methods:
1) Follow Bundarra St to it's west end, then walk down the Centennial Pass walking trail. After about 10 minutes (200m after crossing the creek), turn left at the signposted junction and follow the gully down into the glen.
(2) Park in the carpark at the end of Centennial Glen Rd, Blackheath. Take the stepped path straight ahead (not the firetrail through the gate to the left) for about 200m until it winds down a short rock step, then turn right at the bottom. Follow this track into the glen; where it splits, stay right nearer the base of the cliffs (left takes you to the 'Porter's Pass' climbing areas through Centennial Pass).

Option 1 is fastest for the whole Glen if you're walking from Blackheath. Even if you're driving, Option 1 is just as quick as Option 2 if you are going to climb at Main Wall, White Linen, Search and Destroy, Wave Wall or Woodpecker Wall. Option 2 is by far the most popular but is only quicker for Junket Pumper and Hip Shake Jerk sectors ... and the carpark can get ridiculously busy.

Useful Info:This crag is shared by walkers and climbers alike, and it is critical that climbers do their utmost to protect it. Please act accordingly. Do NOT leave any waste at this crag. Pick up ANY rubbish you see. Know how to "shit in the woods" to prevent any further disgraceful incidents. Please use the toilet BEFORE you walk in to avoid the defecation problem entirely, a public toilet can be found in the Blackheath carpark (between the Ivanhoe Hotel and the Victory Cafe).

The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED OFF LEASH AT ANY CRAG ON COUNCIL LAND (see http://www.bmcc.nsw.gov.au/yourcommunity/animalcontrol/dogoffleashareas). It is known firsthand that the BMCC also heavily frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy BMCC areas, even if on a leash. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.

Author:secretary

Issues

Ringbolts are not recessed, and the glue has some cracksWrong Movementsroutewarning2011-03-21
The anchor bolts and chains are getting a bit old.Trix Roughlyroute2011-03-20
UntitledHorrace Herodroutewarning2009-04-07


Areas

07. Woodpecker Wallvertical sport climbing
9 routes
01. Hip Shake Jerk Areasteep sport climbing
10 routes
02. Junket Pumper Areasteep sport climbing
13 routes
03. Main Wallsteep sport climbing
29 routes
04. Search and Destroy Areasteep sport climbing
10 routes
05. White Linensteep sport climbing
6 routes
06. Wave Wallsteep sport climbing
23 routes
100 routes







Recent Ascents

tclarkson2000 Hairy HorraceBouldery till 3rd bolt, thin crimps, easy top half. Stiff and sequency for 22. Fair enough for 23. red-point222013-02-03
tclarkson2000 Woodpecker Sustained, bouldery 1st 4 bolts. Great moves. Bit run out through 18ish section up higher but not too bad. Fun.red-point222013-02-02
tclarkson2000 Milky JugsRough rock, heinous holds, many broken off, no flow, strenuous, tough on skin, not so fun!freeyuk!222013-01-18
tclarkson2000 Jaqueline Hyde Tricky slabby sequency crux, looking forwards to coming back and doing it properly, great moves! free242013-01-03
Richo1981 RatcatSome big moves to a excellent crux finish on crimpsfree242012-12-29
Samuel My Crusty Strap-ononsight222012-12-23
tclarkson2000 Ruddy NorryLove this climb. Only 2 hardish moves. Bouldering to 1st bolt a little sphincter-tightening the 1st time then fine. red-point222012-12-22
Samuel Ratcatred-point242012-12-09
tclarkson2000 Nev HerrodWow, amazing route, short but total hero climbing. If you climb 23, this is da bomb!red-point232012-12-09
Samuel Ionafree242012-12-02
tclarkson2000 Dr. Foopsickle Cool route, great warm up just bouldering laps to 1st bolt before harder stuff. 1st bolt glue starting to crack..?red-point202012-11-23
tclarkson2000 Split WaveFantastic climbing, no particularly hard moves, just sequence and pump and a bit more pump. Justifiably popular. free232012-11-23
Richo1981 Glad Ingram Cool moves once you move over from JP. Rest up high then crimpy your way to the chains yep has its very own up high.free232012-10-08
Richo1981 RollergirlHardish move between 3rd and 4th then pumpy climbing on jugs. Worth the batmanfree222012-10-08
Samuel Glad Ingram Found imaginary anchor. red-point232012-10-01
Richo1981 Hip Shake JerkIf this is 25 ill eat my hat. Fun climbing on jugs the whole way.onsight232012-10-01
Samuel Junket Pumperred-point232012-10-01
Richo1981 Jug AddictionLike the name states, JUGS. Tough start followed by awesomenessfree242012-09-30
Richo1981 Wank Wank SpurtSilly throw to massive holds. Have a rest in the cave and crush the top crux.free232012-09-29
Richo1981 Better than a WankFun climbing with a stupid contrived start. After the start its well worth itfree242012-09-29

Copyright, ACA, 2012