- 08 Central Tablelands (inc. The Blue Mountains)
- 06. Blackheath (incl. Shipley Plateau, Centennial Glen, Perrys Lookdown, etc)
|This crag is unlocked for editing, and its areas are unlocked. Area additions are allowed|
|Description:||The home of sport climbing in Australia. This controversial area has been the scene of some very public debates about ethics of all kinds: chipping, bolting, climbers' toileting habits, interactions with bushwalkers, and even the climbing environment itself. Note that chipped holds did occur here, but they have all been filled in years ago. Nowadays chipping is NOT acceptable here (or anywhere else for that matter). |
The climbing is short, fun and very very sporty.
|Location:||The crag is easily accessed by two methods: |
1) Follow Bundarra St to it's west end, then walk down the Centennial Pass walking trail. After about 10 minutes (200m after crossing the creek), turn left at the signposted junction and follow the gully down into the glen.
(2) Park in the carpark at the end of Centennial Glen Rd, Blackheath. Take the stepped path straight ahead (not the firetrail through the gate to the left) for about 200m until it winds down a short rock step, then turn right at the bottom. Follow this track into the glen; where it splits, stay right nearer the base of the cliffs (left takes you to the 'Porter's Pass' climbing areas through Centennial Pass).
Option 1 is fastest for the whole Glen if you're walking from Blackheath. Even if you're driving, Option 1 is just as quick as Option 2 if you are going to climb at Main Wall, White Linen, Search and Destroy, Wave Wall or Woodpecker Wall. Option 2 is by far the most popular but is only quicker for Junket Pumper and Hip Shake Jerk sectors ... and the carpark can get ridiculously busy.
|Useful Info:||This crag is shared by walkers and climbers alike, and it is critical that climbers do their utmost to protect it. Please act accordingly. Do NOT leave any waste at this crag. Pick up ANY rubbish you see. Know how to "shit in the woods" to prevent any further disgraceful incidents. Please use the toilet BEFORE you walk in to avoid the defecation problem entirely, a public toilet can be found in the Blackheath carpark (between the Ivanhoe Hotel and the Victory Cafe). |
The crag is on Blue Mountains City Council Land. DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED OFF LEASH AT ANY CRAG ON COUNCIL LAND (see http://www.bmcc.nsw.gov.au/yourcommunity/animalcontrol/dogoffleashareas). It is known firsthand that the BMCC also heavily frowns upon dogs being taken into bushy BMCC areas, even if on a leash. At this crag in particular, it is known (first-hand) that the BMCC are concerned about the ACTUAL OBSERVED impacts of dogs. Many climbers have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate strong relationships with the BMCC to ensure that climbers in general are seen as a sustainable user group, to ensure that all climbers' access can continue. Dog owners are asked NOT to stuff up this relationship for the rest of us; please don't bring your dog.
|Ringbolts are not recessed, and the glue has some cracks||Wrong Movements||route||warning||2011-03-21|
|The anchor bolts and chains are getting a bit old.||Trix Roughly||route||2011-03-20|
|07. Woodpecker Wall||vertical sport climbing||9 routes|
|01. Hip Shake Jerk Area||steep sport climbing||10 routes|
|02. Junket Pumper Area||steep sport climbing||13 routes|
|03. Main Wall||steep sport climbing||29 routes|
|04. Search and Destroy Area||steep sport climbing||10 routes|
|05. White Linen||steep sport climbing||6 routes|
|06. Wave Wall||steep sport climbing||23 routes|
|tclarkson2000||Hairy Horrace||Bouldery till 3rd bolt, thin crimps, easy top half. Stiff and sequency for 22. Fair enough for 23.||red-point||22||2013-02-03|
|tclarkson2000||Woodpecker||Sustained, bouldery 1st 4 bolts. Great moves. Bit run out through 18ish section up higher but not too bad. Fun.||red-point||22||2013-02-02|
|tclarkson2000||Milky Jugs||Rough rock, heinous holds, many broken off, no flow, strenuous, tough on skin, not so fun!||free||yuk!||22||2013-01-18|
|tclarkson2000||Jaqueline Hyde||Tricky slabby sequency crux, looking forwards to coming back and doing it properly, great moves!||free||24||2013-01-03|
|Richo1981||Ratcat||Some big moves to a excellent crux finish on crimps||free||24||2012-12-29|
|Samuel||My Crusty Strap-on||onsight||22||2012-12-23|
|tclarkson2000||Ruddy Norry||Love this climb. Only 2 hardish moves. Bouldering to 1st bolt a little sphincter-tightening the 1st time then fine.||red-point||22||2012-12-22|
|tclarkson2000||Nev Herrod||Wow, amazing route, short but total hero climbing. If you climb 23, this is da bomb!||red-point||23||2012-12-09|
|tclarkson2000||Dr. Foopsickle||Cool route, great warm up just bouldering laps to 1st bolt before harder stuff. 1st bolt glue starting to crack..?||red-point||20||2012-11-23|
|tclarkson2000||Split Wave||Fantastic climbing, no particularly hard moves, just sequence and pump and a bit more pump. Justifiably popular.||free||23||2012-11-23|
|Richo1981||Glad Ingram||Cool moves once you move over from JP. Rest up high then crimpy your way to the chains yep has its very own up high.||free||23||2012-10-08|
|Richo1981||Rollergirl||Hardish move between 3rd and 4th then pumpy climbing on jugs. Worth the batman||free||22||2012-10-08|
|Samuel||Glad Ingram||Found imaginary anchor.||red-point||23||2012-10-01|
|Richo1981||Hip Shake Jerk||If this is 25 ill eat my hat. Fun climbing on jugs the whole way.||onsight||23||2012-10-01|
|Richo1981||Jug Addiction||Like the name states, JUGS. Tough start followed by awesomeness||free||24||2012-09-30|
|Richo1981||Wank Wank Spurt||Silly throw to massive holds. Have a rest in the cave and crush the top crux.||free||23||2012-09-29|
|Richo1981||Better than a Wank||Fun climbing with a stupid contrived start. After the start its well worth it||free||24||2012-09-29|