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The Australian Route Register

11. Tianjara Falls

  - 06 Illawarra (inc Nowra & Point Perpendicular)
    - 4. South-west Nowra - Turpentine Road Region (NEW NOWRA)
This crag is unlocked for editing, and its areas are unlocked. Area additions are allowed
Description:This is the original of the so-called New Nowra crags, first climbed on in the 1970s before Nowra or Mt Keira was even discovered! In recent years most of the old routes have been retrobolted and hundreds of brand spanking new lines have been established. Although this is the farthest crag from Nowra town, it is brand new tarmac the whole way (unlike all the other New Nowra crags which require a shitty 2WD or a 4WD).

The climbing is mostly vertical sports climbing varying from 15 to 40+ meters high. Rock quality varies from 1st class Shoalhaven water carved sandstone to sandy choss. Many of the routes have not had much traffic, take care with explodo small holds.

BOLTING IS BANNED to the left of the lookout and 100m right of the lookout as this is National Park land. Please avoid climbing on the cliff directly under the lookout, not only will you probably get a rock or beer bottle thrown at you from the tourists, you'll also attract unwanted attention from the authorities! Do not build new rock cairns - apparently there is an $11,000 fine if you do.

Location:Tianjara Falls - just a bit past Nowra. Turn off Princess Highway as per access to Thommo Point (Kalander St), follow this and turn left into Albatros Road, follow this to HMAS Albatros. Then turn right into Braidwood Rd, continue along this road (it turns into Turpentine Rd) follow the directions to Nerriga. Keep your eye out for the sign for Tianjara Falls, its about 1km on your right after the road turns into dirt. Park in the massive obvious carpark. Walk down towards the lookout and follow the trail (right) on top of the cliff towards the crags. The 1st walk down gully is about 2 min walk...

The The RTA has recently spent $80 million upgrading the highway from Nowra to Tianjara Falls for the benefit of the sports climbing community!, and is now a nifty 9 minutes from Nowra @ 180kph in your turbo charged Subaru. There has been a noticeable police presence on this route since 2011.
Useful Info:
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Copyright, ACA, 2012