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The Australian Route Register

04. Hylands Lookout

  - 06 Illawarra (inc Nowra & Point Perpendicular)
    - 4. South-west Nowra - Turpentine Road Region (NEW NOWRA)
This crag is unlocked for editing, and its areas are unlocked. Area additions are allowed
Description:Five minute access, accessible by 2 Wheel Drive and in a quiet wilderness setting, the Hylands is a sandstone cliff comprising 3 sections, the north-western and south-western cliffs and the "middle ground" area in between. The rock quality varies from loose flaky scabs and conglomerate, to slightly sandy, to clean and compact. The south-western side has continuous vertical walls up to 30m high, whereas the northwestern side is more broken up but has some interesting short walls, prows, corners, and ledges. The cliffline on which Hylands is situated is extensive and there is the potential for further development, both at Hylands, and further along the cliffline (Utopia Crag). There may also be some bouldering potential.
Location:Hylands Lookout is on Deans Gap Road located off Braidwood road about south-west of Nowra. From Nowra, take the Braidwood Road past the air force base, continuing along the newly sealed road. Around 20 klms from Nowra a major intersection will appear with Turpentine Road joining from the left. 50 metres past this intersection, is a dirt road on the right with some chunky blue-metal gravel at the start. This is Deans Gap Road and is marked as such on many maps.

From Canberra, Deans Gap Road is about 100m on the left past the first ‘Turpentine Rd’ sign.

Zero your odometer when you turn onto Deans Gap Rd – it passes under some power lines (turn left here for Panther crga access) after about 3km; at 3.5km from Braidwood Rd take a road on the left which appears on a right-hand bend; Hylands Lookout is a further 700m along at the end of this road. If your car can negotiate the last rocky section of the road, you will be deposited directly on top of the cliff. There is a great view down the valley, carved out by Boolijong Creek. The road goes left for another 50m which takes you directly to the top of the south-western cliff. Either scramble down the cairned gully/chimney here or for Utopia crags walk south along cliff top (follow yellow tags in trees) for 300 mtrs and go down the wide gully and turn left, continue along the bottom of the cliff for another 150 mtrs and you should come to "Crash and Burn" wall, just around the corner is "Middle Earth" area and 150 mtrs further is "Punch and Judy" area. To get to "Wave Walls" walk another 200 mtrs along until you come across a section of orange cliff about 10 mtrs high the climbs start at the end at present.
Useful Info:There is great camping at the North Western parking area.



1. North-western Sidevertical sport climbing
7 routes
2. Middle Ground - Uppervaried sport climbing
22 routes
3. Middle Ground Lowervertical climbing
0 routes
6. Middle Earth wallsteep sport climbing
8 routes
5. No Man's Landsteep sport climbing
6 routes
4. South-western Sidevertical sport climbing
46 routes
7. Utopia - Crash and Burn wallsteep sport climbing
5 routes
9. Utopia - Halfway Housevaried sport climbing
2 routes
8. Utopia - Punch & Judy Areasteep sport climbing
19 routes
10. Utopia - The Cinema Stripvertical climbing
1 routes
11. Utopia - Wave wallssteep sport climbing
4 routes
120 routes

Map Two

(scaled down)

Recent Ascents

pete Broken BishopGood route with a nice crux sectionflash212013-06-30
pete Five O'Clock ShadowNot badonsight182013-06-30
pete Seven Eleven A very thin crux. Harder than 20 I
pete Weenie (Member)Nice thin wall. Quite sustained through the middle. Really liked this
pete Peugeot: French fo...Good varied routeonsight182013-06-01
pete Birds Over BurnoutsGreat route, with a really fun top section on quality rockflash222013-06-01
pete NazomiGreat balancy route. Nice arete movesflash222013-05-10
pete Black MemberReally nice sustained wall route - loved it! Some breakable holds, but still great.flash222013-05-10
pete Crackling RosieNice varied climbing. Good the whole wayflash182013-05-10
wogdog Dixie NormusFinally got the tick, more great steep stuff on this great wall.free252012-07-08
mattbrooks Who's Ya Daddyfree292012-05-20
mattbrooks Work is Such a Wankonsight152012-04-21
mattbrooks Two uponsight192012-04-21
mattbrooks Ivy Bouncersonsight252012-04-21
mattbrooks Long Dong Silveronsight252012-03-04
purplemma Alien Cracksecond (rest)2012-02-18
purplemma Crackling Rosietop-rope (rest)2012-02-18
purplemma Work is Such a Wankonsight2012-02-18
nmonteith Ivy BouncersPumpy goodnessfree242011-09-04
hill Another Piece of C...Anus busting straining to catch the flake then its off to the starsfree232011-08-28
mattbrooks Liquidityonsight2011-07-14
hill Mon ZombieBum slapping winter funfree212011-05-29
hill Mon Zombie Right H...crunchy biscuitfree212011-05-29
f_ladou An Easy Lady on th...A good warm up indeedonsight172011-03-14

Copyright, ACA, 2012