- 06 Illawarra (inc Nowra & Point Perpendicular)
- 4. South-west Nowra - Turpentine Road Region (NEW NOWRA)
|This crag is unlocked for editing, and its areas are unlocked. Area additions are allowed|
|Description:||This is probably the best of the New Nowra crags and now quite popular. Shade all day, easy access and great rock quality with awesome fine grained white/grey sandstone similar to some of the rock at Moonshine. The area was originally developed by Greg Wilson in 2006. Since then plenty of new routes have been added, several of these are 30m long rope stretching classics. Awesome fine grained white/grey sandstone similar to some of the rock at Moonshine.|
|Location:||From Nowra: Continue along Braidwood road towards TJF. |
1. Reset your speedo at the intersection of Turpentine and Braidwood Roads.
2. 1km: Continue on and the 620 sign will be 1km on your right.
3. 1.2km: Take the next dirt road left (Yarran Rd). Drive thru open gate. From this point on it is recommened you have either a 4WD or a car with good clearance. Sections of road can be very muddy and sometimes entirely water covered. A Forester or Rav4 is fine, a low slung sports coupe is not.
4. 3.8km: Turn down the second road on right (Butterbrush Track) it should have a small "fire trail sign"
5. 6.3km: Continue along this road until the road ends at the cliff top and the obvious parking area.
Walk 25 metres down the trail to cliff edge - directly out from the giant big dead tree is a rap anchor on a little ledge. Fix a line here or rap and pull a doubled rope here (it's 30m to the ground - a doubled 50m rope WILL NOT REACH). Cafe Cruiser wall is on your right, Monty's cave and the other climbing areas are on your left facing out.
Alternatively, to access the base of the cliff (without rap) walk toward the cliff and pick up a trail marked with yellow flagging leading to the left. After about 200m the trail leads you into a gully. Take care at the top of the gully due to loose earth and rotten rock. Trend leftward to reach the first set rungs to gain the terrace. Go right along the terrace, again take care though the sword grass and wet ground to reach the second set of rungs.
Once at the base of the cliff walk right (facing out), keeping as close to the cliff as possible, for about 50m to find a fixed rope. Scale this end traverse until you reach the base of a wall which is the start of the current development. The right hand route is Ocean Views. About 10 minutes walk from car.
GOOD CAMPING on flat grass about 1km in from Braidwood Road.
|5. 22000lbs area||steep sport climbing||2 routes|
|6. Rick Roller's Rap in Area||steep sport climbing||5 routes|
|7. Cafe Cruiser Wall||steep sport climbing||10 routes|
|8. Monty's Cave||steep sport climbing||3 routes|
|9. Fernville||vertical sport climbing||12 routes|
|10. Wasp in the Willows area||vertical sport climbing||19 routes|
|11. Descent Gully Area||vertical sport climbing||6 routes|
|wogdog||Remorseless||Interesting, sustained face climbing to gain the arete.||free||21||2013-03-30|
|bundybear||What Is This Butto...||Hard as !||free||22||2012-09-30|
|bundybear||Just Desserts are ...||Sweet and delicate at the crux||free||24||2012-09-30|
|bundybear||Fair weather trainer||FA||free||22||2012-09-30|
|wogdog||Just Desserts are ...||Great climb, only 24 though.||red-point||24||2012-09-10|
|wogdog||Black Butt (Broman...||Did it without batman start, 22 or 23 if you strugle with cracks.||onsight||22||2012-09-10|
|wogdog||Short Sharp Explan...||Punchy crux||flash||24||2012-08-26|
|wogdog||Bromance||Lots of great climbing on this one.||flash||20||2012-08-26|
|Simon Vaughan||Caught Napping||21.5||red-point||21||2012-08-25|
|Simon Vaughan||The Bunga Bunga Cl...||onsight||21||2012-08-25|
|matttranter||The Bunga Bunga Cl...||Nice move through the holes.||red-point||21||2012-08-25|
|Simon Vaughan||After Dinner Sex G...||onsight||18||2012-08-25|
|matttranter||After Dinner Sex G...||red-point||18||2012-08-25|
|Seb||After the Rapture||free||23||2012-05-27|
|Seb||Truck stop Party G...||onsight||22||2012-04-14|
|Seb||Battle of the Bulge||flash||22||2012-04-14|
|Seb||Buckingham Bunga L...||onsight||21||2012-04-14|