The routes database is now read-only. Route information is gradually being migrated to theCrag and this site will eventually be decommissioned.
The ACAQ web site contains information about ongoing policy and access work relating to climbing in Queensland.
For more information, contact Damien Ayers, damien at omad dot net.
The Australian Route Register
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|FA:||Herbert Schlipper, Greg Lovejoy (alt) Easter 1963||FA Date:||0000-00-00|
|FFA:||Chris Dewhirst and Chris Baxter (alt) freed pitches 2 and 3 in November 1974 and Kim Carrigan freed pitch 1 in 1978||FFA Date:||1978-00-00|
|Start:||The crack on the front of the buttress. Faint initials TB.|
|Description:||An historic route that offers great climbing. It's unfortunate that the first pitch is much harder than the rest of the climb.
Many pitons from the first ascent are still in place but should not be relied on. Pullling on a few pegs on the first pitch can drop the grade to 19, M1|
|Pitch 1:||24m 23 (consensus from 1 ascents; FA grade: 23)|
|Climb the line to the steepening which can be tackled either directly by a variant just to left, by starting up the left and reaching back right or by aiding.|
|Pitch 2:||20m 18 (consensus from 1 ascents; FA grade: 18)|
|Step up right and up the wall. Step right to arete. Either go up for 10 metres to a ledge or step left and go up a groove to the same ledge.|
|Pitch 3:||24m 19 (consensus from 1 ascents; FA grade: 19)|
|The thin groove directly above then move left and up the line bristling with more old pegs. Finish up groove. To add some more excitement you could try resting on one of the pegs to see if it would hold body weight.|
|Pitch 4:||15m 14 (consensus from 1 ascents; FA grade: 14)|
|Traverse 3 metres right and go up to a ledge beside a large burnt-out tree. Either belay or continue up the last pitch.
or 4a. 21m 15 Go straight up the excellent corner-crack above to a ledge. Continue up the awkward crack and move right past a tree.
or 4b. 25m 14 Go straight up the excellent corner-crack above to a ledge. Move around right past a wobbly block (? source of recent rockfall) into an attractive corner and follow this.|
|Pitch 5:||33m - (consensus from 1 ascents; FA grade: -)|
|Easy chimney or finish up Scarface.
Or 5a. 9 Up the chimney for 8 metres then left onto the arete. Exposed climbing to the final wall then move right and finish up the chimney left of the original route. Chris Baxter and Chris Dewhirst 25-08-1974.|
Copyright, ACA, 2012