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The Australian Route Register

Passport to Insanity      

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  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 07. The Victoria Range
      - 4. High Tops (incl The Fortress, Crystal Palace & Millennium Caves)
        - The Fortress - Summit Block
Grade:27 (consensus)
FA:K. Lockwood, J FriendFA Date:1974-10-03
FFA:N. DoddFFA Date:1986-00-00
Author:deanoEntry Date:2008-06-25
Start:The start is rather obvious.
Description:"The best line in Australia..." The second pitch roof-crack could hardly be in a better position. This is also a superb mixed climb at 20, M2 if the roof is aided. Sadly it is often under-estimated and the detritus of retreat is often evident. It is not a practice route.
Pitch 1:50m 20 (consensus from 1 ascents; FA grade: 20)
Up wide crack. Belay at stance where crack ends, about 10m below the roof. A #5 cam is useful on this pitch.
Pitch 2:20m 27 (consensus from 1 ascents; FA grade: 27)
Move R to gain nice rail that leads L to the back of the roof, and the start of the roof crack. Follow crack (at either 27 or M2) to the lip and then up to belay stance.
Pitch 3:40m 18 (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: 18)
Ramble up to the top.


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