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The Australian Route Register

Smeagol      

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Area:VIC
  - Djurite (Mt. Arapiles)
    - 16. The Watchtower Areas
      - Right Watchtower Face
Grade:15 (consensus)
Length:110mDescent:Walk-off
Style:TradToprope:No
FA:Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood. (alts) This climb has been about 30 years in the making, although the above party were first to do it in its entirety. FA Date:2004-03-06
Author:willmonksEntry Date:2008-10-02
Verified:No
Start:Start as for The Confession.
Description:Great climbing all the way. One of the best and most varied climbs of its grade on the Watchtower Faces. Individual pitch grades were not supplied - the overall grade is 15 but some pitches may be easier.
Pitch 1:45m 15 (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: 15)
Start up The Confession for 3-4m then verge left and up to tiny corner. Continue up left edge of the orange streak to a long right-facing flake/corner. Follow this to the big overhang which is turned on its right-hand edge. Once above the overhang, another corner leads direct to the left end of the Salamander ledge. Belay on the ring bolts as for Auto Da Fe.
Pitch 2:15m 15 (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: 15)
Up white streaks 2m left of the belay, over overlap, then right to chains. (Noddy first did this pitch around 1975 when putting up The Confession (before Skink Connection, Gollum et al went that way)).
Pitch 3:50m 15 (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: 15)
Climb Salamander's 4th pitch for about 4m to a good horizontal slot on the left wall. Traverse 2m left as soon as possible - with the horizontal slot at head level - any higher, and you miss the best climbing. Then climb direct up the black streak all the way to the top. Pull through summit overhang on the left. (Noddy did the upper part of this pitch on the FA of Brolga).

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