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The Australian Route Register
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|FA:||Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman, Keith Lockwood||FA Date:||1997-10-00|
|Start:||Start as for Hot Flap, below the flake marking the left edge of the Left Watchtower Face.|
|Description:||Good 2nd pitch with bold and committing crux well out from gear. (A couple of grades have been added to allow for this.) Hot Flap Direct Start might be a better start than the current first pitch. Take doubles of all cams to #2 1/2 and three #2 TCUs or equivalent. 1st pitch has been done a number of times before as a start to Hot Flap. |
|Pitch 1:||23m - (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: -)|
|Up to the base of the flake and step L. Follow thin cracks up the face and over a steepening. Follow easy ground up and move R to belay on L edge of the Left Watchtower Face (1st belay of Hot Flap). |
|Pitch 2:||35m 18 (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: 18)|
|Move out R a few metres as for Hot Flap and go up to a flake (if you get to a bolt you are about 3m too far R). Go up 5-7m R of the large chimney until the face steepens after about 20m. Get some wires in a flake then move L and boldly up (crux). Above the steepening, traverse 2m R below a thin overlap and then go back L and pull over the overlap. Easier ground leads up dirty groove to ledge on the Siren traverse.|
|Pitch 3:||20m - (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: -)|
|Up the corner above then directly up to a good ledge below the recessed wall L of Siren Buttress. |
|Pitch 4:||28m - (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: -)|
|An unpleasant crack marks the L side of the recessed wall. From below this crack move out L to an arete. Follow the easy but delightful arete to the top.|
Copyright, ACA, 2012